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1968 chevelle ls swap

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1968-1972 Chevrolet Chevelle LS1/ LS2 engine swap Installation Manual

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These headers have been designed and tested to directly fit a retrofit GM LS series engine in a 1968-1972 Chevrolet Chevelle with automatic transmission and stock front suspension/steering components. If you are attempting to install these headers on a vehicle with aftermarket steering or suspension parts you may need to modify some parts for proper fitment. We also guarantee these headers will properly fit up to the matching Bassani Power X crossover and aft-cat listed for this car on bassani. com or in our catalog. Installation instructions: 1.) Remove existing exhaust manifolds or headers if present. 2.) Lubricate included fasteners with anti-seize compound and install headers with gaskets onto engine through engine compartment. 3.) Torque bolts evenly to approximately 18 ft. lbs. 4.) Apply anti-seize to supplied collector studs and install the short threaded end into tabs on header collectors. 5.) Attach remaining exhaust components as desired. 6.) Check torque on fasteners after the first 100 miles and then again at 500 miles

1968-1972 Chevrolet Chevelle (GM A-body)/ 572 crate engine stainless steel headers Installation manual

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Installation instructions: 1.) Install GM 572 crate engine in the stock location using Moroso solid motor mounts. Do not install the through-bolt in the driver side mount at this time. 2.) Using a bottle jack, raise the driver side of the engine up off the motor mount as much as needed until the driver side header will install through the bottom of the vehicle. 3.) Once header has cleared all components, lower the engine back onto the motor mount and install the through-bolt. Tighten all motor mount bolts. 4.) Install the driver side header, with a gasket, to the left cylinder with two bolts Parts List and Description Hardware List (A) PN S946872L -left side header 16 -3/8 header bolts (B) PN S946872R -right side header 1 -anti-seize tube (C) PN S946872G -gasket (2)

K40016 ADD-A-LEAF SPRING KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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CHEVY 1982-98 S Series all 2WD/4WD 1972-82 LUV PU 2 WD DODGE 1994-99 Ram 1500 2WD 1994-00 Ram 1500 4WD FORD 1990-96 F 150 std or ext cab 2WD 1982-89 F 150 std or ext cab 2WD 1983-1996 Ford Bronco II 4WD 1983-1996 Ford Bronco II 2WD 1983-1997 Ford Ranger 2WD/4WD 1990-00 Ford Ranger 2WD 1983-97 Ford Explorer 2WD/4WD 1972-84 Ford Courier 2WD K40016 ADD-A-LEAF SPRING KIT JEEP 1984-01 Jeep Cherokee 1974-86 CJ-5/CJ-7/CJ-8 4WD 1967-73 Jeepster/C101/C101 w multileaf Jeep Wrangler 1987-96 Front and Rear LAND ROVER 1959-1981 All 4wd MITSUBISHI 1986-91 Montero 1982-84 PU 2WD/4WD NISSAN 1968-1997 PU/Pathfinder 2WD/4WD TOYOTA 1963-98 Toyota PU/4 Runner with 2.5″ rear springs The K40016 Add-A-Leaf Spring Kit retrofits onto the following vehicles: The kit consists of two each 28″ Leaf Springs and two sets of two each longer bolts and nuts of different diameters. The same diameter bolt currently on the vehicle should be used and the other set discarded. • PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING THE INSTALLATION • You must use 2-large “C-clamps” or a large vise to contain the elastic potential energy stored in a leaf spring when the center bolt is removed. • The new leaf spring will be placed in the existing spring assembly in a progressive pyramid shape. Example – if your number 1 Spring is 32″ long and the next one is 25″ long, the new Add-A-Leaf Spring should be place between them. • Some vehicles will have a flat helper stack. SEE ILLUSTRATION – DO NOT INSTALL THE NEW ADD-A-LEAF SPRING IN OR BELOW THE HELPER SPRIN(S). Helper spring assembly. Do not install Add-A-Leaf in or below this assembly Lowest allowable position for Add-A-Leaf

EDELBROCK ENGINE MOUNT ADAPTER PLATES For Converting Small Block Chevy Applications to LS1 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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PRE-INSTALLATION PROCEDURE General Motors vehicles came with many different engine and transmission combinations. This section is intended to verify that all the correct components are in place prior to installation. If the vehicle is currently equipped with a small block Chevrolet V8, then the engine isolator for the current application will work with the Edelbrock Adaptor plates. See the next page for further notes on various applications. A-BODY APPLICATIONS: 1964 – 1967: Vehicles that are being converted from six cylinder or a non-Chevrolet engine can use engine frame stands for the 283 to 327 from a salvage yard or reproduction suppliers such as OPGI and Yearone; engine isolators can be of the OEM rubber type from a parts supplier or polyurethane safety mounts from Energy Suspension: part #3.1114 (zinc plated), or #3.1115 (chrome). 1964 – 1967 applications will require mildly slotting the engine frame stand mounting holes, as shown in Figures 1 and 2. FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 – 1968 – 1972: From 1968 to 1972, Chevrolet used two different frame stands with matching engine isolators. Type one is the 307 (and some early 1968 327′s), while type two includes all engines from the later 1968 327′s through to the 454, encompassing all engine sizes in-between. If you have obtained frame stands from another vehicle, use the following procedure to identify your mount system: measure the ears of the engine isolator where the engine mounting bolt goes, the inside dimension is 2 5/8″for the 307 cid (Figure 3) and 2 3/8″for the larger sized engine (Figure 4). Frame stands for the late 327,350 to 454 are also available from reproduction suppliers such as OPGI and Yearone, engine isolators can be of the OEM rubber type from a parts supplier or polyurethane safety mounts from Energy Suspension: part #3.1114 (zinc plated) #3.1115 (chrome) for the 307, part #3.1117 (zinc plated) or #3.1118 (chrome) for the late 327 to the 454. FIGURE 3 (307) FIGURE 4 (350 et al) F-BODY AND X-BODY APPLICATIONS: 1967 – 1969 F-body and 1968 – 1974 X-body: Vehicles that are being converted from six cylinder or a non-Chevrolet engine will require engine isolators that match the engine frame stand. There are a variety of styles depending on engine size and model year, so get the engine isolators and frame stands which are available from reproduction suppliers such as Classic Industries and Yearone. Engine isolators can be of the OEM rubber type from a parts supplier or polyurethane safety mounts from Energy Suspension. There are two basic types of engine isolators; to identify them measure the distance between the tab for the engine mount through bolt, if it is 2-5/8″use Energy Suspension #3.1114 (zinc plated) #3.1115 (chrome), if the distance is 2-3/8″use #3.1117 (zinc plated) #3.1118 (chrome).

Toyota IFS Ball Joint Spacer Installation

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Ball Joint Spacer Installation Put the spacer in place, NOTCH FACING DOWNWARD and, using a floor jack to control arm height, align the ball joint and install the hardware. The notch acts as a weep hole to let any water that gets in from above drain out to prevent the ball joint from rusting out. Tighten ball joint hardware to 25 ft.lb. or 35 N.m. Note: Apply this torque to the allen head bolt and the Grade 10.9 nut only, then install the 2nd nylon lock nut and tighten it down snugly in order to lock the first nut in place. No need to toque the nylon lock nut to 25 ft.lb. value, it may strip. If you wish, you can spray the exposed head and threads of the bolts with some paint, as the black oxide coated hardware may tend to rust over time. Extend the shock to see if it needs shimming. (it likely will) Place the appropriate number of washers to ensure the shock does not limit down travel. Tighten shock hardware. Repeat for other side. Re-install the wheels. If the end of the upper control arm is too close to the tire at this point, there are several options: You can try and grind off part of the outer lip of the control arm (area at the left edge of the red circle in the photo above) You can add a 1/4″ wheel spacer to move the wheel/tire away from the suspension. You can swap to a narrower tire, for example changing from a 33×12.50 to a 33×10.50 tire will move the inner edge of the tire away from the control arm since it’ll have less sidewall bulge on the same wheel. You can swap to a wheel with less back side spacing, for example going from a 4.75″ to a 4.5″ backspaced wheel will move the inner edge of the wheel and tire 1/4″ away from the control arm (stock wheels are ~4.75″ backspacing). Put the vehicle back on the ground. For low profile bump stops only: Shim them approx. 1/2″ with some washers or use stock bump stops. Failure to do so could result in damage to CV joints, shocks, or other components