Skip to content

1988 ford thunderbird steering column removal

You search PDF repair manual about 1988 ford thunderbird steering column removal, if there are search results will appear below. If search results do not exist, please search by others keyword.

1997 Ford Thunderbird/ Cougar Steering Column Removal And Installation Manual

download
Steering Column Disassembly CAUTION: Do not remove the steering column, steering wheel and air bag module as an assembly from the vehicle unless the column is locked to prevent rotation, or lower end of steering shaft is wired in such a way to prevent the steering wheel from being rotated, as this will damage the air bag sliding contact. 1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to Section 14-01 . 2. Remove steering wheel (3600) as described. 3. Remove steering column from vehicle as described. 4. Remove steering column lower yoke (3N725), steering column upper bearing spring (3520), suspension height sensor control ring (3C131) and steering column bearing tolerance ring (3L539). Lower Steering Column Assembly 5. Remove turn indicator cancel cam (13318) by pushing up with flat-bladed screwdriver. Note direction of flush surface. 6. Remove ignition switch (11572) assembly. 7. Remove bearing retainer (3C610) and steering column upper bearing spring. . Remove steel steering column bearing tolerance ring and steering column bearing sleeve (3518). 9. Remove plastic bearing retainer from ignition switch lock cylinder bore. 10. Remove metal steering column lock housing bearing (3E700) from ignition switch lock cylinder bore. 11. Note position of steering column lock gear (3E717) to actuator lock. Remove steering column lock gear. 12. Remove two pivot bolts. Use caution becausesteering column position spring (3D655) will release when bolts are removed. Remove steering column lock cylinder housing (3511). 13. Remove steering column shaft assembly from steering column. 14. Remove steering column lock lever actuator (3E715) and steering actuator housing (3F723). 15. Remove lower steering column bearing (3517) and steering column lower bearing retainer (3D681).

1997 Ford Thunderbird/Cougar Steering Column with Air Bag

download
Steering Column with Air Bag The steering column has a steering wheel (3600) which is bolted to the top of the steering column and is fitted with a supplemental air bag system. * Before performing work on or around any supplemental air bag system component, observe all supplemental air bag system conditions and warnings to avoid accidental air bag deployment and possible injury. * Refer to Section 01-20B for supplemental air bag system conditions and warnings. Steering Column, Tilt — Disassembled View Section 11-04: Steering Column 1997 Thunderbird/Cougar Workshop Manual DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Procedure revision date: 05/16/2000 Item Part Number Description 1 043B13 Driver Side Air Bag Module 2 N804385-S100 Steering Wheel Bolt 3 3600 Steering Wheel 4 N805572-S36 Air Bag Module Retaining Screws (2 Req’d) 5 3L518 Steering Wheel Spoke Cover (2 Req’d) 6 N804385-S100 Screw 7 14A664 Air Bag Sliding Contact 8 13318 Turn Indicator Cancel Cam 9 3C610 Bearing Retainer 10 3520 Steering Column Upper Bearing Spring 11 3518 Steering Column Bearing Sleeve (Upper) 12 3517 Steering Column Bearing (Upper)(Small) 13 3517 Steering Column Bearing (Large) 14 3524 Steering Gear Input Worm Gear and Rack 15 390345-S36 Screw 16 13K359 Multi-Function Switch

1989 Toyota 4Runner STEERING COLUMN REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

download
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION STEERING COLUMN Removal 1) Disconnect battery ground cable. Remove steering wheel. On Cressida, Corolla, MR2 and Tercel models, remove fuse box cover, lower instrument trim panel and air duct from under steering column. 2) On all models, remove upper and lower steering column covers. Remove combination switch. Mark position of “U” joints and shaft for reassembly. 3) On models with “U” joints, remove “U” joint retaining bolt. On models with flexible joint, remove flexible joint retaining bolt. NOTE: On 2WD Pickup models, remove steering column with intermediate shaft attached. 4) On all models, mark position of joint and pinion shaft for reassembly. Remove intermediate steering shaft. 5) Remove floor pan cover bolts. Remove tilt bracket-to- dashboard mounting bolts. Remove steering column toward inside of vehicle. Fig. 1: Exploded View of Camry, Corolla, MR2 & Tercel Steering Column Assembly Courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. Fig. 2: Exploded View of Celica, Cressida & Supra Steering Column Assembly Courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. Fig. 3: Exploded View of Land Cruiser, Pickup, Van & 4Runner Steering Column Assembly Courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. Installation 1) To install steering columns, reverse disassembly procedure. Grease main steering shaft and all bearings. 2) Ensure marks made to flexible couplings and to “U” joints are aligned. Ensure steering column and shafts do not bind after installation. STEERING COLUMN OVERHAUL NOTE: Camry, Corolla, MR2 and Tercel steering columns are similar. Some of the following procedures will not pertain to all models. Disassembly (Camry, Corolla, MR2 & Tercel) 1) Remove tension springs, grommets and screws from tilt bracket. Remove tilt lever left-hand set bolt. Remove column upper support lock bolt. 2) Remove tilt steering support bolts and pawl set bolts. Place bushings and “O” rings aside and keep them clean. Remove ignition lock cylinder. 3) Using a screwdriver, push 2 thrust stoppers into bearing retainers. Pull out shaft from column. Remove the No. 1 column ring, bearing retainer, thrust stoppers and No. 2 column ring from shaft. 4) Remove snap ring and lower bearing from shaft. Remove bearing inner snap ring. Remove upper bracket retaining bolts and ground strap. Separate upper bracket from column. Inspection 1) Check that steering lock mechanism operates properly. Check upper bearing for smooth rotation or excessive noise. Replace upper bearing (if necessary). 2) Using Drift (09631-00020) and Adapter (09627-30010), drive bearing from upper bracket. Pack new bearing with grease. Using the same drift and adapter used in removal, drive new bearing into upper bracket. 3) Inspect lower bearing for smooth rotation or excessive noise. If lower bearing shows signs of wear or damage, replace with a new one. Reassembly 1) Install upper bracket onto column. Install ground strap. Tighten retaining bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 N.m). Install inner snap ring on shaft groove nearest to center of shaft. 2) Install lower bearing and lower bearing snap ring. Place No. 2 column ring into position next to bearing on side nearest center of shaft. See Fig. 4.

1997 Ford F-250/ 350/ Super Duty Steering Knuckle REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

download
Steering Knuckle Removal 1. Remove the front wheel spindle (3105) and the right and left shaft and joint assembly. Refer to Spindle, RH and LH Shaft and Joint Assembly in the Removal and Installation portion of this section. 2. Disconnect the steering linkage, if necessary, from the knuckle. Refer to Section 11-03 in the Body, Chassis Manual. Steering Knuckle Installation 3. Remove the cotter pin from the stud of the front suspension upper ball joint (3049). Loosen the nut on the top stud and the bottom nut inside the steering knuckle. Remove the top nut. 4. Sharply hit the top stud with a plastic or rawhide hammer to free the knuckle from the axle arm. Remove and discard bottom nut. 5. NOTE: Note the orientation of the camber adjuster to make sure of the same camber setting. Remove camber adjuster by hand or, if difficulty is encountered, use Pitman Arm Puller T64P-3590-F. 6. Place steering knuckle in vise and remove snap ring from bottom ball joint socket if so equipped. 7. Remove plug from U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C and replace with Plug T80T-3010-A4 (part of 4WD Ball Joint Tool Set T80T-3010-A). 8. Assemble U-Joint Tool T74P-4635-C and Receiving Cup T80T-3010-A2 (part of 4WD Ball Joint Tool Set T80T-3010-A). 9. NOTE: Always remove front suspension lower ball joint first. Turn forcing screw clockwise until front suspension lower ball joint is removed from steering knuckle. 10. Repeat procedure and remove front suspension upper ball joint. Installation 1. Clean steering knuckle bore and insert front suspension lower ball joint as straight as possible. 2. NOTE: If ball joint cannot be installed to the proper depth, realign Receiving Cup T80T-3010-A3. To replace the front suspension lower ball joint, assemble U-Joint Tool, Receiving Cup T80T-3010-A3 (part of 4WD Ball Joint Tool Set T80T-3010-A) and Installing Cup from Ball Joint Adapter Set D81T-3010-A or equivalent. 3. Turn forcing screw clockwise until front suspension lower ball joint is firmly seated. 4. Install the snap ring on the front suspension lower ball joint. 5. To install front suspension upper ball joint, assemble the C-Frame, Receiving Cup T80T-3010-A3 and Replacer T80T-3010-A1 (both part of 4WD Ball Joint Tool Set T80T-3010-A). 6. Turn forcing screw clockwise until front suspension upper ball joint is firmly seated. 7. Assemble knuckle to axle arm assembly. Install camber adjuster on the stud of the front suspension upper ball joint with the arrow pointing outboard for positive camber, pointed inboard for negative camber. 8. Install new nut on bottom socket finger-tight. Install and tighten nut on top socket finger-tight. Tighten bottom nut to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft). 9. CAUTION: If the tightening sequence is not followed in this step and Step 10, ball joint life will be reduced. NOTE: Do not loosen top nut to install cotter pin. Tighten top nut to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft), then advance nut until castellation aligns with cotter pin hole. Install cotter pin. 10. Retighten bottom nut to 123-149 Nm (91-110 lb-ft). 11. Install the front wheel spindle and the right and left shaft and joint assembly as described in this section. 12. Connect steering linkage, if necessary, to the knuckle. Refer to Section 11-03 in the Body, Chassis Manual.

Ford F-Series Column Shift Repairs Manual

download
It’s a simple system. To remove the assembly, start by removing the column shift lever. This is super easy; just use two small punches to depress the two spring-loaded pivot pins on the lever, then pull the lever out. Be aware: the pivot pins and spring will shoot out. Next go under the hood, and undo the two bolts holding the clamp piece just above the steering box. The lower half of the clamp will come free. The upper half is locked to the “shoe” plate under it, and to the steering column, with a round peg cast into it. So you need to pry the shoe up away from the steering column to get the peg clear of the column. Once you do that, you need to pry the upper half of the clamp away from the shoe, so the peg is clear of the shoe. Once it is clear, you can slide the end piece off the shifter tube. Then slide the wave washer and 2-3 lever off. To get the 1-R lever off, you’ll need to pull a steel pin out of the shifter tube. It should just drop out. Then slide the lever, wave washer, and shoe off the tube. Push the shifter tube up to get the clearance needed for the shoe. The shifter tube is a hollow steel tube, with a hole drilled thru it near the bottom. In this hole there is a steel pin (the one just removed). The steel pin engages into slots in the 1-2 and 3-4 levers, to move them. As you can see, there isn’t a lot of wear in my shift levers’ slots. The pin shows some wear, where the tube contacts it. The pin is hardened steel and the shifter tube is mild steel, so the tube will be worse than the pin. The pins are available from Obsolete Ford Parts and others, P/N 01A-7337, only a couple of bucks. Getting the shifter tube out is pretty easy; just drop the column support (remove the bolts to instrument panel and loosen the pinch bolt) down to the floor, and you’ll be able to swing the shift tube to the side to clear the steering wheel, and pull it out. My pin wasn’t that worn, it’s the hole in the tube. The tube is hollow but actually has a steel plug inside it with a hole for the pin. It is pushed inside the tube and then peened in two places thru the outer tube (they punched the outer tube to lock the inner plug). inner plug had gotten loose inside the tube, too. If this is your situation, you could just drill and pin the plug to the outer tube, and get a good improvement. I wanted “like new”, so I took my shifter tube to my favorite machinist (Gene at Noor Mfg. in Albuquerque, a super guy). He made up a whole new lower end for the tube out of 1018 carbon steel. It’s got a spigot on the upper end that was pressed into the remaining tube, welded, then turned down. It is better than new! Look at the difference in the shape of the hole. Price for the work was very reasonable