1996 chevy truck wiring diagram

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TOYOTA TACOMA DC XSB RETRACTABLE HARD TRUCK BED COVERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 26-09-2011

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STEP 1: POSITIONING CANISTER Remove the top cover from the canister box and set it aside for later installation. Perform a quick inventory to insure all parts are there. Be sure to check inside the small cardboard box for parts. Remove the Canister from the box and set it in the truck bed against the cab. The canister should be resting on the canister end plates and be centered in the truck bed. DO NOT USE A KNIFE TO OPEN THE RAIL BOX. OPEN THE RAIL BOX ALONG THE LENGTH OF THE BOX AND LIFT RAILS OUT TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE SURFACE OF THE RAILS ON THE PACKAGE STAPLES. CAUTION! Canister End Plates INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Slide the four (4) Inner Rail Clamps (2 on each side) through the Tie Down Bars of the truck. (Figure 2B) Place the Outer Angled Rail Clamps on the Inner Rail Clamps (MAKE SURE THE NARROWER EDGE IS DOWN ON THE OUTER ANGLED RAIL CLAMPS) loosely fasten the clamps in place with the 1/4″ Washer, 1/4″ Lock Washer and Rail Clamp Nut on both sides of the truck bed. The fi rst clamp should be placed about 6 inches from the canister (closest to truck cab). The second clamp assembly should be about 4 inches from the end of the Tie Down Bar (closest to the tailgate). Open the rail box along the length of the box, lift rails out to avoid scratching the rail surface on the package staples. The side rails are marked “left” and “right” (left is the driver’s side of the truck). Then Slide Rail Clamp Bracket A on each Rail followed by Rail Clamp Bracket B. Rail Clamp Bracket A should be closest to the Cab of the truck. At this time you will need to install the taligate end of the pull strap to the underside of the drivers side rail using the #8-32 x 3/4 machine screw that is already located at the tailgate end on the underside of the rail. (Figure 2A) Now, with the tailgate closed, place the side rails in position on the truck bed with the Rail Clamp Brackets A & B resting on the Outer Angled Rail Clamps. Loosely assemble the Rail Clamp Brackets to the Outer Angled Rail Clamps with the 1/4″ Washer, 1/4″ Lock Washer and 1/4-20 x 1/2″ Bolt on each side of the truck bed. Center the Rails in the Truck bed. Check spacing in the truck bed between the Left and Right Rails. Spacing should be 51 3/4″. Once correct spacing is achieved tighten the Rail Clamp Brackets A & B only in place Correct spacing to the tailgate should be 1/16″ to prevent the tailgate from striking the side rails when closing. Tighten the Set Screws on both Rail Clamp Bracket A to hold rails in position. ( Adjust spacing from the tailgate by moving rails forward or backward as needed prior to fi nal tightening of set screws .) Apply downward pressure while tightening the Outer Angled Rail Clamp to the Inner Rail Clamp, especially on the tailgate end. This will ensure a tight seal, fi rm seat, and good fi t on the truck bed

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2000 Dodge Dakota & Durango Power Windows ADJUSTMENTS

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Filed Under (Dodge Manuals) by admin on 18-06-2012

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ADJUSTMENTS WINDOWS Remove door trim panel. See DOOR TRIM PANEL under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Loosen bolts holding window to regulator. Raise window fully, seating window in frame. Tighten bolts. Install door trim panel. TROUBLE SHOOTING POWER WINDOWS On Dakota, inspect circuit breaker No. 20 (20-amp) in junction block. On Durango inspect circuit breaker No. 21 (25-amp) in junction block. On all models, junction block is located on left end of instrument panel. Inspect fuse No. 9 (40-amp on Dakota, 50-amp on Durango) in Power Distribution Center (PDC). PDC is located in left front corner of engine compartment. Inspect power window system ground circuit. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . SYSTEM TESTS ALL WINDOWS INOPERATIVE Dakota 1. Check circuit breaker for power window system. See TROUBLE SHOOTING . Replace circuit breaker as necessary. If circuit breaker is okay, go to next step. 2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove driver’s front power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 3 (Black wire) at driver power window switch wiring harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Black wire between driver power window 2000 Dodge Durango 2000 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT’ ‘Power Windows – Dakota & Durango 2000 Dodge Durango 2000 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT’ ‘Power Windows – Dakota & Durango switch connector and ground. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . 3. Connect negative battery cable. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 5 (Tan wire) at driver’s power window switch wiring harness connector. If battery voltage is present, check driver power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under COMPONENT TESTS. If battery voltage is not present, repair open Tan wire between driver power window switch connector and ignition switch. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . See POWER DISTRIBUTION article in WIRING DIAGRAMS. Durango 1. Check circuit breaker for power window system. See TROUBLE SHOOTING . Replace circuit breaker as necessary. If circuit breaker is okay, go to next step. 2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove driver’s front power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. 3. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 5 (Black wire) at driver’s power window switch wiring harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Black wire between driver’s power window switch connector and ground. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . 4. Reconnect negative battery cable. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 4 (Tan wire) at driver’s power window switch wiring harness connector. If battery voltage is present, check driver’s power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under COMPONENT TESTS. If battery voltage is not present, repair open Tan wire between driver power window switch connector and ignition switch. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . See POWER DISTRIBUTION article in WIRING DIAGRAMS. ONE WINDOW INOPERATIVE

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EGO DASH TS Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit Installation Guide

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 03-04-2012

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EGOCorp USA 8820 Kenamar Drive, Ste. 506 San Diego, CA 92121 Page 1 ofon should 2 Version 1.3 Phone +1 (858) 566-2159 Fax +1 (858) 566-2179 www.egocorpusa.com EGO DASH TS Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit Installation Guide WARNING: We recommend disconnecting the vehicles battery prior to the installation. The installatibe only performed by professional installers. Improper installation may void the vehicles and EGO DASH TS warranty. EGO DASH TS Installation Steps 1. Remove head unit (Consult with owner’s and shop manual) 2. Disconnect factory wiring harness from head unit 3. Connect EGO DASH TS Wiring Harness to the head unit Wiring Harness A Locate
amplifier (Most Lexus ? behind glove box; Toyota Land Cruiser ? under drivers or passengers seat). Connect male and female 16-pin connectors between amplifier and the vehicle’s wiring harness. Connect Yellow Mute wire: Lexus ? pin 7 on the 18-pin connector; Land Cruiser ? pin 3 on the 25-pin connector (amplifier). Connect Blue Ignition wire (male bullet connector): Lexus ? pin 16 on the 16-pin connector (female bullet connector); Land Cruiser ? pin 20 on the 25-pin connector (amplifier). Wiring Harness B The normal location of the mute is pin 4 (x) on the 6-pin connector. However, on some rare factory head units, the mute pin might be pin 5. The mute pin on the head unit should show ~ 5 volts when the head unit is turned on. Wiring Harness C Connect the male and female ISO connectors, if they are not already connected. Splice the gray wires (only!) into the loudspeaker wiring, going from the amplifier to the center or door loudspeaker. The 2 female bullet connectors go to the loudspeaker. The 2 male bullet connectors go to the amplifier. The 4 white wires are not used! Connect the yellow mute (“Mute Signal”) cable (male bullet connector) on the ISO Harness coming from the EGO DASH TS brain to “Mute 2″ (white cable – female bullet connector), if not already connected. Wiring Harness D Please contact EGO Technical Support at (858) 566-2170 (9AM-5PM PST) or support@egohandsfree.com . 4. Connect EGO DASH TS Wiring Harness to the vehicle’s wiring harness (One or more of the connectors might be not used, depending on the vehicle’s configuration) 5. Connect the EGO DASH TS Wiring Harness to the EGO DASH TS control box (16pin Molex) 6. Install the EGO DASH TS switch insert into the desired location (knockout) 7. Connect the EGO DASH TS switch with the EGO DASH TS box (Use the included extension cable if necessary) 8. Install the EGO Microphone into the desired location (e.g. the rear view mirror. DO NOT install the microphone on or near vehicles’ safety systems, like the airbag) 9. Test the EGO DASH TS: a. Reconnect the battery and turn on the ignition of the vehicle b. Pair a Bluetooth mobile phone with the EGO DASH TS (Pin code: “0000″) c. Turn on the head unit and select a radio station; Make sure you can hear the radio through the cars’ speakers; Adjust audio volume if necessary

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1992 Toyota Cressida Wiring Diagram

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 30-11-2011

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tem Wire ColorPolarity Wire Location 12V white – white/red Positive (+) steering column Starter black/white Positive (+) steering column Starter 2 none Ignition black/yellow Positive (+) steering column 2nd Ignition black/red Positive (+) steering column 3rd Ignition none Accessory blue/red Positive (+) steering column Accessory 2 none Tachometer black/yellow check conn(ig-) Power Door (Lock) Wiring Diagram for [ Negative (-) ] Door Lock green/red Negative (-) pass kick or theft ecu Power Door (Unlock) Wiring Diagram for [ Negative (-) ] Door Unlock green/whiteNegative (-) pass kick or theft ecu Door Trigger red/white Negative (-) theft ecu[1] Dome Supervision Wiring Diagram for [ none ] Dome none none none Headlights red/yellow Negative (-) steering column Parklight Positive green Positive (+) dimmer controll or dkp Parklight Negative green/whiteNegative (-) steering column Wipers blue/black Positive (+) steering column Left Front Window (Up/Down) grn/wht – red/blu in drivers door Right Front Window (Up/Down) pnk/blk – pnk in drivers door or dkp Left Rear Window (Up/Down) red – red-yel A in drivers door or dkp Right Rear Window (Up/Down) grn/blk – red/blk A in drivers door or dkp Trunk/Hatch Pin red/white Negative (-) at light, or theft ecu Hood Pin tied with doors Trunk/Hatch Release Wiring Diagram for [] Trunk/Hatch none Factory Alarm (Arm) arms with lock Factory Alarm (Disarm) disarms with unlock Horn white/red Negative (-) st.column or theft ecu Brake green/black Positive (+) brake switch Door Motor (Lock) none none none Door Motor (Unlock) none none none

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1989-1996 Dodge Dakota Trucks COIL Ignition Tests Manual

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Filed Under (Dodge Manuals) by admin on 18-06-2012

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Dakota Trucks 1989-1996 Ignition Tests COIL The ignition coil for the vehicles covered by this guide is in the following locations: • 1989-92 engines: mounted to the firewall • 1993-96 2.5L engines: mounted on the thermostat housing in front of the coolant temperature sensor • 1993-96 V6 and V8 LDC engines: mounted to a bracket bolted to the right engine cylinder head • 1993-96 5.9L HDC engines: mounted to a bracket bolted to the air injection pump (AIR pump) mounting bracket. Fig. 2: Ignition coil mounting-all 1989-92 models Fig. 3: Ignition coil wiring and mounting hardware-1993- 96 2.5L engine 1. Inspect the ignition coil for arcing while the engine is running. If the engine will not start, this can be performed while the engine is cranked by either an assistant or a remote starter. Look at the coil in dim or low light to aid visibility of any arcing. Fig. 4: Ignition coil mounting-1993-96 3.9L and 5.2L/5.9L LDC engines 2. Arcing at the tower will carbonize the wire boot, which, if it is connected to a new ignition coil, will cause the coil to fail. In such cases, clean all the carbonization away or replace the components as necessary. Fig. 5: Ignition coil mounting-1993-96 5.9L HDC engine 3. Using a coil tester or ohmmeter according to the manufacturer’s instructions, test the primary and secondary resistance. Replace any coil that does not meet the specifications indicated in the accompanying chart. 4. Inspect the secondary coil wire for any sign of damage. Replace if any damage is found. Carbon tracking on the old wire can cause arcing and the failure of a new ignition coil. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1989-92 Models See Figures 6 and 7 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the three wires from the coil. Mark them to identify for installation. Fig. 6: Remove the coil bracket bolt at the cowl Fig. 7: Unscrew the coil mounting hardware, then remove the coil from the vehicle 3. Unplug the condenser suppressor connector from the coil, if equipped. 4. Unbolt and remove the coil. To install: 5. Bolt down the coil with old bolts. 6. Connect wires to coil making sure that the proper wires are connected where they should be. 7. Connect the condenser suppressor, if equipped. 8. Connect the battery negative cable Removal and Installation V6 AND V8 ENGINES 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the primary wiring from the ignition coil. 3. Disconnect the secondary spark plug wire from the coil. 4. Remove the two bolts and withdraw the coil from its mounting bracket. To install:
5. Position the coil on its bracket and install the two bolts. Tighten them to 100 inch lbs. (11 Nm). If the bracket has been tapped for coil mounting bolts, these fasteners require less torque, so tighten them to 50 inch lbs. (5 Nm). 6. Connect all wiring to the ignition coil. TESTING See Figure 1 The only test you can perform without a DRBII scan tool, or equivalent, is a basic check of the sensor only.

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1996 – 2000 Civic 2-door Front Windows Bind or Have Come Out of the Run Channel Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Honda Manuals) by admin on 10-02-2012

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REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Remove the door panel. Refer to section 20 of the 1996-00 Civic Service Manual. 2. Remove the armrest bracket, then pull down the plastic cover to gain access to the window regulator. 3. Carefully move the glass until you can see the glass mounting bolts, then loosen them. Slide the guide rearward, remove the glass from the guide, and carefully pull the glass out through the window slot. 4. Check the year and VIN. If the vehicle is a 1996 or 1997 within the affected VIN range, replace the window regulator. Go to step 5. If the vehicle is not a 1996 or 1997 within the affected VIN range, go to step 8. 5. Remove the two roller guide bolts and the two rear regulator mounting bolts; then remove the front regulator mounting bolts. 6. Disconnect the power window motor connector, and detach the harness clip (if applicable); then lift and remove the regulator through the opening in the door. 7. Install the new regulator in the door, then loosely install the two rear mounting bolts and the two roller guide bolts. Do not tighten the two front mounting bolts yet. Go to step 9. 8. Loosen the window regulator’s two rear mounting bolts, two front mounting bolts, and two roller guide bolts

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Toyota Corolla Upgrading a car radio

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 23-05-2011

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step 1: Preparing the wiring harness Get a wiring harness or adapter that will allow the car radio wiring to plug into the back of the new radio. These can be found at Walmart for $4.99. Make sure that the plug is compatible with your car (check the list on the back of the box). Have shown the back of the new radio – the black set of pins is where the included black plug will go to. The free wires on the black plug provided with the new audio system will be connected to an adapter that will plug into the car wiring. For the Toyota Corolla 1995 wagon, the wiring diagram is as shown below. Your car may differ substantially from this step 2: Connecting the wires Connect the wires from the plug that came with the new radio to the wiring harness adapter that you purchased separately. Twist the correct wires together and then solder them (or use wire nuts if you dot have soldering equipment). Cover the exposed wire with electricians tape or heat seal tape. Attached is another table on how you connect your Toyota wiring adapter to the radio plug. Please, do remember that your radio and car will differ a bit step 3: Removing the old radio Remove the factory installed radio (the instructions apply only for Corollas from 95-98). Remove the two screws below the panel. Have shown a picture with the location of these screws. Remove the control knobs for the AC and the fan, etc. These come off pretty easily with a gentle pull. Use a thin blade (metal spatula) to probe approximately 2/3rd of the way up and try to pry the sides out. The metal blade will disengage the clip on each side. Took a bit of gentle effort but it did pop out. The location of these clips is just below the vents. Lift the panel up, reach under it to carefully remove the plugs on the right hand side that connect the defroster, the clock and the hazard flasher. The plugs can be removed by squeezing a release tab on the plug and then gently pulling them apart. Remove the radio – two pairs of screws on each side of the radio hold it in place. Remove these (and hold onto them because you will need them later on) and then slide the radio out.

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FORD 4-PANEL With New Automatic Latch System Truck WITH Factory Tailgate Lock CLASS 3 Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 10-04-2012

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1) Clean rail surfaces really well with denatured alcohol and make sure they are dry. 2) Press Gasket down firmly the entire length of the gasket 1) Use thin foam double stick tape to hold the clamped hardware in place on inside side rails. The reason we suggest you use this foam is that it is just an extra added protection to keep your clamped hardware from shifting on the sometimes slick surface of some sprayed-in bedliners. • ALL HARDWARE PROVIDED: Stainless steel nuts (18) Part # 9723 or 9723-A – Low Profile Cast aluminum “C” Clamps (16 of them) The only difference with 9723 and 9723-A is that A is a little deeper “C” clamp which is required on some trucks because of the way the inside rail is made. These cast aluminum “C” clamps uninstalled are about the size of a 1 dollar coin and about ¾ inch thick. Part # 9724-T : Latch Installation Tape – (4 pcs.) Part # 9724 – Latch Catch Bracket (4) – These are angled pieces of metal that give your cover’s latches something to “latch to” and are installed with “C” clamps. Part # 9731 – Center Latch Catches (2) Part # 9736 – D Shaped Seals (2) – Described Above Part # 9714 or 9758 – Stainless Steel Screws (18) (Depending on “C” clamps required above) Part # ST-114 – Keyhole Bracket (2) (Mounted at the Hinge closest to the cab of the truck on the inside of the side rail of the truck at that hinge point). Part # 9727 – Box Seal (2) – Described above INSTALLATION OVERVIEW: 1) Measure and make your marks for your masking tape to put your gaskets on each side. 2) Put down masking tape the entire length of the truck 3) Follow masking tape and install peel and stick gaskets (don’t trim in the rear just yet). 4) Place cover onto truck (you will use the measurements provided to make sure the cover is located exactly in the right position 5) Install Keyhole Bracket (holds the 3rd Leg Hinge) Explanation of 3rd Leg Hinge : • 3rd Leg hinge is a flap of metal that is integrated into the hinge • This flap is on the first hinge right behind the cab of the truck • When you mount the cover, this flap hangs straight down, and slides right into the keyhole bracket 6) Install two “C” Clamps to each Keyhole bracket to secure to the truck 7) Install your stainless steel bolt with lock nut that secures the 3rd Leg Hinge (the flap) into the keyhole bracket on each side. That is “your” permanent point of attachment. (THESE ARE THE SAME TWO BOLTS THAT YOU REMOVE TO TAKE OFF THE COVER) *Remember, the cover is now “installed” and cannot slide around – so you MOUNT ALL THE HARDWARE TO FIT THE COVER from here on out 8) Attach center latch catch on inside of side rails using “C” Clamps. *Center Latch Catch: holds center hinge and the 2 panels in the middle down when the cover is closed. When you close the last panel flat onto the tailgate, a stainless steel “button” along each side of the cover is depressed between the 2 panels at the hinge. When this button is squeezed, it actually pushes a stainless steel latch towards the front of the truck catching the center latch on each side rail. 9) Attach Rear Latch Catch Brackets* using “C” Clamps * These are angled pieces of metal that give your cover’s latches something to “latch to” and are installed with “C” clamps. 10) Install Front Latch Catch Brackets using “C” clamps 11) THIS STEP IS ONLY FOR THE Ford F250/F350 SuperDuty Installations ONLY: The outer seal that comes with your cover and is attached on this rail is called a “Side Box Seal” Because the plastic Ford rails on the SuperDuty are ridged/grooved a little deeper and wider than those on the other Ford trucks, a set of small matte black screws are used in addition to the adhesive on the seal to ensure a snug fit. These screws only slightly penetrate the plastic side rail cover and do not come in contact with the underlying metal side rail

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1988-1996 TOYOTA PICK-UP LOWER CONTROL ARMS INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 26-03-2012

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1) Park your truck on flat level surface. Chock the rear wheels. Loosen front lug nuts. Raise the front with a floo jack. Support the frame with jack stands. Remove front wheels. NOTE : ALWAYS USE JACK STANDS – NEVER RELY ON JACKS ONLY!! 2) Starting on the drivers side, locate the height adjusting bolt at the rear of the torsion bar. Measure and record the length of the threads exposed between the end of the adjusting bolt and jam nuts (Fig. A). Now make a mark at the front of the torsion bar, where it goes into the bracket bolted the lower control arm. Mark bath the bar and the bracket (Fig. B). This will index the bar into the correct position when installing. Fig. A Fig. B Note : Step #2 assumes torsion bars are in the factory position. 3) Loosen the height adjusting bolts until there is no longer any load on the torsion bars. 4) Remove the 2 bolts that hold the tensioncompression rod and sway bar end link bolts. 5) Now remove the two bolts on each arm that holds the torsion bar receiver to the back of the control arm. Slide the torsion bar and receiver back from the control arm. There is a wide spline on the torsion bar corresponding to the double width tooth on the torsion bar receiver. The receiver will not slide back onto the bar if the splines are not aligned properly. 6) Loosen and remove the 3 nuts and bolts that hold each ball joint to the lower control arms. 7) Remove the pivot bolts holding the lower control arm to the frame and remove control arm from truck. 8) Unbolt and remove original bump stops from factory arms and bolt them to you new DJM control arm. 9) Drill out the small hole on the end of the torsion bar receiver to 7/16″on both sides. This is to accept the 7/16″ x 5- 1/2″ bolt supplied. 10) Compare the new DJM control arms with the factory ones. Carefull note the diameter of the factory ball joint mounting holes. You will find either three 10mm hole used on most earlier models or larger 13mm holes on late models. If you factory arms have the 10mm holes continue to step # 10. If factory holes are 13mm it will be necessary to enlarge the holes with a 1/2″ drill bit(Fig. C). Fig. C 11) Mount the DJM control arms to the truck. Make sure the steering stops are facing the front of the truck. Insert the pivot bolts and install the washers and nuts. DO NOT TIGHTEN YET . 12) Bolt on the tensioncompression rods to the lower control arms. It mat be necessary to loosen the large nuts that hole the tensioncompression rods to the frame in order to rotate the rods to the proper angle to align bolts into control arms.

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TOYOTA TACOMA RETRACTABLE HARD TRUCK BED COVERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 22-09-2011

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STEP 1: REMOVE CONTENTS FROM THE BOX Remove canister and top cover from the large box. Remove rails and Guide strips from the Rail box. Perform a quick inventory to insure all parts are there. (If any parts are missing call Pace Edwards Technical Support for replacement, INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 3 STEP 2: PLACE CANISTER Use a soft rag or some packing materials from the box to wedge between the fabric roll and handle to temporarily keep the fabric roll from winding into the canister. Remove the screw and metal clip holding the handle to the canister. Place the canister in the front of the truck bed, cab side forward against the truck sill, in the position required for unrolling. Center side to side. Do not attach the canister yet. CAUTION! CAUTION! PERMANENT DAMAGE MAY BE CAUSED IF THE HANDLE ASSEMBLY IS ALLOWED TO RETRACT INTO THE CANISTER WITHOUT PROTECTION ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE FABRIC PANEL! STEP 3: INSTALL & FASTEN THE RAILS HARDWARE USED: INNER RAIL CLAMP BRACKET x 4 1/4″ FLAT WASHER x 4 1/4″-20 NUT X 4 Slide the four (4) Inner Rail Clamps (2 on each side) through the Tie Down Bars of the truck. Open the rail box along the length of the box; lift rails out to avoid scratching the rail surface on the package staples. The side rails are marked “left” and “right” (left is the driver’s side of the truck). With the tailgate closed, place the side rails in position on the truck bed with the Rail Clamp Brackets resting on the Inner Rail Clamps. Loosely assemble the Rail Clamp Brackets to the Inner Rail Clamps with the 1/4″ Washer, 1/4″ Lock Washer and 1/4-20 Nut on each side of the truck bed. Correct spacing to the tailgate should be 1/16″ to prevent the tailgate from striking the side rails when closing. Apply downward pressure while tightening the Rail Clamp to the Inner Rail Clamp, especially on the tailgate end. This will ensure a tight seal, fi rm seat, and good fi t on the truck bed.

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