Skip to content

2000 ford f150 chilton free download

You search PDF repair manual about 2000 ford f150 chilton free download, if there are search results will appear below. If search results do not exist, please search by others keyword.

2004 FORD F150 Door Window Glass-Rear SuperCrew REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

download
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 3. Remove the parts in the order indicated in the Door Window Glass — Rear, following illustration and table. SuperCrew To remove individual parts, only carry out the listed steps: NOTE: LH side is shown. RH side is similar. Part Steps 1. Remove the rear door trim panel. For additional Rear door window glass 1-4 information, refer to Section 501-00. Rear door window glass 1-7 regulator 2. Remove the rear door-mounted speaker. For additional information, refer to Section 415-00. Rear door window glass 1, 8 top run ItemPart NumberDescription ItemPart NumberDescription 4 1625712/ Rear door window glass 1 1625766/ Interior moulding (RH/LH) 1625713 (RH/LH) 1625767 Removal Note 2 1627458/ Watershield (RH/LH) 5 180103-14632 Window motor electrical 1627459 Removal Note connector Installation Note 6 W505421-S301Window regulator bolts (5 3 — Rear door window req’d) glass-to-regulator bolt (2 req’d) 7 1627000/ Window regulator assembly Removal Note 1627001 (RH/LH) (Continued) (Continued) Copyright © 2003, Ford Motor Company Last updated: 6/14/2004 2004 F150, 12/2003 501-00-2 501-00-2 Body System — Exterior REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued) Item 4: Rear Door Window Glass Removal ItemPart NumberDescription Note 8 1625766/ Rear door window glass top 1. Pull the glass out through the top inboard side 1625767 run (RH/LH) Removal Note of the door. 9 1625596/ Exterior moulding (right side) Item 8: Rear Door Window Glass Top Run 1625597 (RH/LH) Removal Note 4. To install, reverse the removal procedure. 1. Remove the glass top run through the top opening of rear door. Item 2: Watershield Removal Note Item 2: Watershield Installation Note 1. Do not tear or damage the watershield during disassembly. 1. Watershield must be installed so that edges have a weatherproof seal. Item 3: Rear Door Window Glass-to-Regulator Bolts Removal Note NOTE: Some vehicles may use rivets to attach the glass to the regulator. 1. If removing only the rear door glass regulator assembly and motor, secure the rear door glass in the full up position with tape.

1994 Ford Pickup F150 WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT

download
Bronco & F150 (Automatic Locking Hub) 1. Raise and support front of vehicle. Remove wheels. Remove locking hub assembly. See AUTOMATIC LOCKING HUBS under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Remove outer lock nut with Spanner Lock Nut Wrench (D85T-1197-A). See Fig. 3 . 2. Remove lock washer. Tighten inner lock nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 N.m). Back off inner lock nut and retighten to 30-40 ft. lbs. (41-54 N.m). While rotating hub, back off lock nut 90 degrees. Install lock washer so key is positioned in spindle groove. 3. Rotate inner lock nut so pin is aligned in nearest lock washer hole. Install and tighten outer lock nut to 160-205 ft. lbs. (217-278 N.m). Final end play of hub should be .00-.004″ (.00-.11 mm). Torque required to rotate hub and rotor should not exceed 20 INCH lbs. (2.3 N.m). Install hub locks and wheels. 1994 Ford Pickup F150 WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT

2000 Ford Ranger Cooling System Draining Filling and Bleeding Repair Manual

download
NOTE: Less than 80% of the coolant capacity can be recovered with the engine in the vehicle. Dirty, rusty or contaminated coolant requires replacement. 1. Release the pressure in the cooling system by slowly turning the pressure relief cap one half to one turn counterclockwise to the first stop on the filler neck. When the pressure has been released, remove the pressure relief cap. 2. Raise and support the vehicle, For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 . 3. Remove the lower radiator cover. 4. Place a suitable container below the radiator draincock. Drain the coolant. 5. Close the radiator draincock when finished. Filling and Bleeding with RADKITPLUS 1. Using the special tool, install the RADKITPLUS and follow the RADKITPLUS manufacturer’s instructions to fill and bleed the cooling system. Filling without RADKITPLUS CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the correct concentration and fluid level. When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and clean, drinkable water. To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system: * Add Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant VC-4-A (in Oregon VC-5, in Canada CXC-10) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A. * Do not add Motorcraft Specialty Engine Coolant such as VC-2 or an equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D. Mixing coolants can degrade the coolant’s corrosion protection. * Do not add alcohol, methanol, or brine, or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing. * Do not mix with recycled coolants unless they meet the requirements of Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A or WSS-M97B51-A1. Not all coolant recycling processes meet these Ford specifications. Use of such coolants can harm the engine and cooling system components. All engines 1. Install the lower radiator cover.

2000 Ford Windstar Intake Manifold-Lower Removal And installation manual

download
Intake Manifold—Lower Removal 1. Partially drain the cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 . 2. Remove the upper intake manifold (9424). For additional information, refer to Intake Manifold—Upper in this section. 3. Remove the fuel supply manifold (9F792). For additional information, refer to Section 303-04B . 4. Disconnect the EGR vacuum tube (9E498). 5. Disconnect the EGR-to-exhaust manifold tube (9D477). * Loosen the nut. 6. Disconnect the upper radiator hose (8260). * Reposition the clamp. * Disconnect the hose. 7. Disconnect the heater hose (18472). * Compress the fitting * Disconnect the hose. 8. Disconnect the intake manifold runner control (IMRC). 9. Position the water bypass tube (8555) aside. 1. Remove the bolts. 2. Position the tube aside. 10. NOTE: Note the location of the six long bolts. Remove the lower intake manifold (9J447). 1. Remove the bolts. 2. Remove the intake manifold. 11. Remove the intake manifold runner control (IMRC) if necessary. For additional information, refer to Section 303-14 . 12. Remove and discard the lower intake manifold sealing components. Installation 1. Refer to the illustration for intake manifold sealing component locations. 2. Install the lower intake manifold front and rear end seals. 1. Apply a bead of sealant to the intake manifold front and rear end seal mounting points as indicated. * Use Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G323-A4. 3. Install the lower intake manifold front and rear end seals. 3. Install the intake manifold gaskets (9439). 4. Install the intake manifold runner control (IMRC) if required. For additional information, refer to Section 303-14 . 5. NOTE: The lower intake manifold must be installed within four minutes of applying sealant. Position the lower intake manifold. 1. Apply a bead of sealant to the lower intake manifold mounting at the points indicated. * Use Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M4G323-A4. 3. Position the lower intake manifold.

Ford F-Series Column Shift Repairs Manual

download
It’s a simple system. To remove the assembly, start by removing the column shift lever. This is super easy; just use two small punches to depress the two spring-loaded pivot pins on the lever, then pull the lever out. Be aware: the pivot pins and spring will shoot out. Next go under the hood, and undo the two bolts holding the clamp piece just above the steering box. The lower half of the clamp will come free. The upper half is locked to the “shoe” plate under it, and to the steering column, with a round peg cast into it. So you need to pry the shoe up away from the steering column to get the peg clear of the column. Once you do that, you need to pry the upper half of the clamp away from the shoe, so the peg is clear of the shoe. Once it is clear, you can slide the end piece off the shifter tube. Then slide the wave washer and 2-3 lever off. To get the 1-R lever off, you’ll need to pull a steel pin out of the shifter tube. It should just drop out. Then slide the lever, wave washer, and shoe off the tube. Push the shifter tube up to get the clearance needed for the shoe. The shifter tube is a hollow steel tube, with a hole drilled thru it near the bottom. In this hole there is a steel pin (the one just removed). The steel pin engages into slots in the 1-2 and 3-4 levers, to move them. As you can see, there isn’t a lot of wear in my shift levers’ slots. The pin shows some wear, where the tube contacts it. The pin is hardened steel and the shifter tube is mild steel, so the tube will be worse than the pin. The pins are available from Obsolete Ford Parts and others, P/N 01A-7337, only a couple of bucks. Getting the shifter tube out is pretty easy; just drop the column support (remove the bolts to instrument panel and loosen the pinch bolt) down to the floor, and you’ll be able to swing the shift tube to the side to clear the steering wheel, and pull it out. My pin wasn’t that worn, it’s the hole in the tube. The tube is hollow but actually has a steel plug inside it with a hole for the pin. It is pushed inside the tube and then peened in two places thru the outer tube (they punched the outer tube to lock the inner plug). inner plug had gotten loose inside the tube, too. If this is your situation, you could just drill and pin the plug to the outer tube, and get a good improvement. I wanted “like new”, so I took my shifter tube to my favorite machinist (Gene at Noor Mfg. in Albuquerque, a super guy). He made up a whole new lower end for the tube out of 1018 carbon steel. It’s got a spigot on the upper end that was pressed into the remaining tube, welded, then turned down. It is better than new! Look at the difference in the shape of the hole. Price for the work was very reasonable