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2000 ford ranger hard to shift

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SERVICE PROCEDURE F87Z-7A100-DB Main Control (4.0L EI Explorer) F87Z-7A100-EB Main Control (4.0L SOHC Explorer) 1. Perform normal diagnosis for this concern. XL2Z-7L491-AA Bracket XL2Z-7G383-AA Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) 2. Perform Line Pressure Tests as listed in the Solenoid 1999 Explorer/Mountaineer, Ranger Workshop Manual. OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The 3. If pressures are low, perform Pinpoint Test for Provisions Of Bumper To the EPC solenoid. Bumper Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty 4. Inspect the bracket that attaches the Torque Coverage Converter Clutch (TCC), Shift Solenoid B OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME (SSB), Shift Solenoid D/Coast Clutch Solenoid 991610A Replace Electronic 1.2 Hrs. (SSD/CCS), and EPC solenoids to the main Pressure Control (EPC) control for damage. If the bracket is damaged, Solenoid And Clean Main replace both the bracket and solenoid. Control (Includes Time For 5. If the bracket is not damaged, inspect the Road Test) – 4R44E Or solenoid for the affected date code (refer to the 5R55E following Manufacturing Date Code Chart) and 991610B For Line Pressure And ID marking (Figure 1, Views 1, 2, and 3). If the Pinpoint Tests, Use “A” solenoid is one of the affected, replace it. Time As Outlined In The Warranty And Policy MANUFACTURING DATE CODE Manual Date Code Month/Year DEALER CODING 868xx August 1998 CONDITION 869xx September 1998 BASIC PART NO. CODE 870xx October 1998 7G383 01 871xx November 1998 OASIS CODES: 501000, 502000, 50300

2004 Ford Truck Ranger 2WD Transmission Position Switch/ Sensor Service and Repair MANUAL

Special Tool(s) Removal 1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. 2. Disconnect the shift cable from the manual control lever. 3. Disconnect the digital transmission range (TR) sensor electrical connector. 4. Remove the manual control outer lever nut and manual control outer lever. 2004 Ford Truck Ranger 2WD V6-4.0L VIN E 5. Remove the screws and the digital TR sensor. Installation 1. Install the digital TR sensor and loosely install the screws. 2. CAUTION: Tightening one screw before tightening the other may cause the sensor to bind or become damaged. NOTE: The manual lever must be in the NEUTRAL position. Using the special tool, align the digital TR sensor and tighten screws in an alternating sequence. 3. Install the manual control outer lever and nut. 2004 Ford Truck Ranger 2WD V6-4.0L VIN E Copyright © 2007, ALLDATA 9.50 Page 3 4. Connect the digital transmission range (TR) sensor electrical connector. 5. Connect the shift cable to the manual control lever. 6. Verify that the shift cable is adjusted correctly.

2000 Ford Ranger Cooling System Draining Filling and Bleeding Repair Manual

NOTE: Less than 80% of the coolant capacity can be recovered with the engine in the vehicle. Dirty, rusty or contaminated coolant requires replacement. 1. Release the pressure in the cooling system by slowly turning the pressure relief cap one half to one turn counterclockwise to the first stop on the filler neck. When the pressure has been released, remove the pressure relief cap. 2. Raise and support the vehicle, For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 . 3. Remove the lower radiator cover. 4. Place a suitable container below the radiator draincock. Drain the coolant. 5. Close the radiator draincock when finished. Filling and Bleeding with RADKITPLUS 1. Using the special tool, install the RADKITPLUS and follow the RADKITPLUS manufacturer’s instructions to fill and bleed the cooling system. Filling without RADKITPLUS CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling efficiency and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at the correct concentration and fluid level. When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and clean, drinkable water. To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system: * Add Motorcraft Premium Engine Coolant VC-4-A (in Oregon VC-5, in Canada CXC-10) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A. * Do not add Motorcraft Specialty Engine Coolant such as VC-2 or an equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D. Mixing coolants can degrade the coolant’s corrosion protection. * Do not add alcohol, methanol, or brine, or any engine coolants mixed with alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from overheating or freezing. * Do not mix with recycled coolants unless they meet the requirements of Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A or WSS-M97B51-A1. Not all coolant recycling processes meet these Ford specifications. Use of such coolants can harm the engine and cooling system components. All engines 1. Install the lower radiator cover.

Ford F-Series Column Shift Repairs Manual

It’s a simple system. To remove the assembly, start by removing the column shift lever. This is super easy; just use two small punches to depress the two spring-loaded pivot pins on the lever, then pull the lever out. Be aware: the pivot pins and spring will shoot out. Next go under the hood, and undo the two bolts holding the clamp piece just above the steering box. The lower half of the clamp will come free. The upper half is locked to the “shoe” plate under it, and to the steering column, with a round peg cast into it. So you need to pry the shoe up away from the steering column to get the peg clear of the column. Once you do that, you need to pry the upper half of the clamp away from the shoe, so the peg is clear of the shoe. Once it is clear, you can slide the end piece off the shifter tube. Then slide the wave washer and 2-3 lever off. To get the 1-R lever off, you’ll need to pull a steel pin out of the shifter tube. It should just drop out. Then slide the lever, wave washer, and shoe off the tube. Push the shifter tube up to get the clearance needed for the shoe. The shifter tube is a hollow steel tube, with a hole drilled thru it near the bottom. In this hole there is a steel pin (the one just removed). The steel pin engages into slots in the 1-2 and 3-4 levers, to move them. As you can see, there isn’t a lot of wear in my shift levers’ slots. The pin shows some wear, where the tube contacts it. The pin is hardened steel and the shifter tube is mild steel, so the tube will be worse than the pin. The pins are available from Obsolete Ford Parts and others, P/N 01A-7337, only a couple of bucks. Getting the shifter tube out is pretty easy; just drop the column support (remove the bolts to instrument panel and loosen the pinch bolt) down to the floor, and you’ll be able to swing the shift tube to the side to clear the steering wheel, and pull it out. My pin wasn’t that worn, it’s the hole in the tube. The tube is hollow but actually has a steel plug inside it with a hole for the pin. It is pushed inside the tube and then peened in two places thru the outer tube (they punched the outer tube to lock the inner plug). inner plug had gotten loose inside the tube, too. If this is your situation, you could just drill and pin the plug to the outer tube, and get a good improvement. I wanted “like new”, so I took my shifter tube to my favorite machinist (Gene at Noor Mfg. in Albuquerque, a super guy). He made up a whole new lower end for the tube out of 1018 carbon steel. It’s got a spigot on the upper end that was pressed into the remaining tube, welded, then turned down. It is better than new! Look at the difference in the shape of the hole. Price for the work was very reasonable

Ford SVT Contour/ Mercury 2.5L V-6 Cougar (5 Speed Manual Transmission Only) Supercharger System Installation Manual

1998-2000 FORD SVT CONTOUR/ MERCURY 2.5L V-6 COUGAR Installation Instructions For best performance and continued durability, please take note of the following key points: 1. Use only premium grade fuel 92 octane or higher (R+M/2). 2. The engine must have stock compression ratio. 3. If the engine has been modified in any way, check with Vortech prior to using this product. 4. Always listen for any sign of detonation (pinging) and discontinue hard use (no boost) until problem is resolved. 5. Perform an oil and filter change upon completion of this installation and prior to test driving your vehicle. Thereafter, always use a high grade SF rated engine oil or a high quality synthetic, and change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles or less. Never attempt to extend the oil change interval beyond 3,000 miles, regardless of oil manufacturer’s claims as potential damage to the supercharger may result. 6. Before beginning installation, replace all spark plugs that are older than 1 year or 10,000 miles with original heat range plugs as specified by the manufacturer and reset timing to factory specifications (follow the procedures indicated within the factory repair manual and/or as indicated on the factory underhood emissions tag). Do not use platinum spark plugs unless they are original equipment. Change spark plugs at least every 20,000 miles and spark plug wires at least every 50,000 miles. TOOL & SUPPLY REQUIREMENTS: •Factory Repair Manual •3/8″ Socket and Drive Set: SAE & Metric •1/2″ Socket and Drive Set: SAE & Metric •3/8″ NPT Tap and Handle •Adjustable Wrench •Open End Wrenches: 3/8″, 7/16″, 1/2″, 9/16″ •Center Punch •Ford Springlock 3/8″ Fuel Fitting Disconnect Tool •5 Quarts SH/CF Rated Quality Engine Oil •Oil Filter and Wrench •Flat #2 Screwdriver •Phillips #2 Screwdriver •Heavy Grease •Silicone Sealer •Drill Motor •1/8″, 3/16″, 27/64″ Drill Bits •9/16″ Rota Broach Tool (also available from Vortech) •Molylube •Wire Strippers and Crimpers •Utility Knife If your vehicle has in excess of 10,000 miles since its last spark plug change, then you will also need: •Spark Plug Socket •NEW Spark Plugs