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1993 Ford Escort CIRCUIT TEST J – FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT (RELAY AND INERTIA SWITCH)

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 19-01-2012

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resistance between test pin No. 22 and test pins No. 40 and 60. If resistance is less than 10,000 ohms, repair short circuit and repeat QUICK TEST. If resistance is 10,000 ohms or more, go to step 5). 5)Check Fuel Pump Circuit Continuity Turn ignition off. Leave fuel pump relay and PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between FUEL PUMP circuit at fuel pump relay wiring harness connector and test pin No. 22 at breakout box. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace PCM and repeat QUICK TEST. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open circuit and repeat QUICK TEST. 10)Code 95/542 A KOEO Code 95/542 indicates one of the following conditions: Engine Starts: * Fuel pump secondary circuit shorted to power. * Fuel pump relay contacts always closed. * Open FPM circuit between PCM and junction to POWER-TO-PUMP circuit. * Left/front HO2S short to power (dual HO2S applications). * Faulty PCM. No Start: * IFS switch circuit open or not reset. * Open circuit in or between PCM and fuel pump. * Faulty ground connection at fuel pump. * Faulty fuel pump. If engine starts, go to step 11). If engine does not start, go to step 15). 11)Check Fuel Pump Operation Turn ignition on. Wait 5 seconds. Listen for fuel pump operation. If fuel pump is off, go to step 13). If fuel pump is on, go to step 12). 12)Check For Fuel Pump Relay Always Closed Turn ignition off. Disconnect fuel pump relay. Turn ignition on. If fuel pump is off with relay disconnected, replace fuel pump relay and repeat QUICK TEST. If fuel pump is on with relay disconnected, repair short to power in POWER-TO-PUMP or FPM circuit. (For models with relay block, also check fuel pump prime plug circuit). Repeat QUICK TEST. 13)Check Continuity Of Fuel Pump Monitor (FPM) Circuit Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM 60-pin connector. Inspect and repair any damaged terminals. Install EEC-IV Breakout Box (T83L-50-EEC-IV) , leaving PCM disconnected. Disconnect fuel pump relay. Measure resistance between test pin No. 8 (No. 19 on Escort, and Tracer) at breakout box and POWER-TO-PUMP circuit at fuel pump relay wiring harness connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to step 25) (dual HO2S) or replace PCM and repeat QUICK TEST (single HO2S). If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open circuit and repeat QUICK TEST

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1995 Nissan-Datsun Maxim Water Pump Service and Repair REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Nissan Manuals) by admin on 03-06-2011

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1.Drain coolant from drain plugs on radiator and both sides of cylinder block. 2.Remove drain plug on cylinder block. 3.Remove right side engine mounting, mounting bracket and nuts. 4.Remove drive belts and idler pulley bracket. 5.Remove chain tensioner cover and water pump cover. 6.Pushing timing chain tensioner sleeve, apply a stopper pin so it does not return. Then remove the chain tensioner assembly. 7.Remove the 3 water pump fixing bolts. Secure a gap between water pump gear and timing chain, by turning crankshaft pulley 2O° backwards. 8.Put M8 bolts to two M8-threaded holes out of 3 water pump fixing bolt holes 9.Tighten M8 bolts by turning half turn alternately until they reach timing chain rear case. In order to prevent damages to water pump or timing chain rear case, do not tighten one bolt continuously. Always turn each bolt half turn each time. 10.Lift up water pump and remove it. When lifting up water pump, do not allow water pump gear to hit timing chain. INSPECTION 1.Check for badly rusted or corroded body assembly. 2.Check for rough operation due to excessive end play. INSTALLATION 1.Before installing, remove all traces of liquid gasket from mating surface of water pump cover and chain tensioner cover using a scraper. Also remove traces of liquid gasket from mating surface of front cover. 2.Apply a continuous bead of liquid gasket to mating surface of chain tensioner cover and water pump cover. 3.Return the crankshaft pulley to its original position by turning it 2O° forward. 4.Install timing chain tensioner, then remove the stopper pin After installing the tensioner, race the engine at about 3,000 rpm under no load to purge air from the high-pressure chamber. The engine may produce a rattling noise. This indicates that air still remains in the chamber and is not a matter of concern. 5.Install drain plug on cylinder block. 6.Reinstall any parts removed in reverse order of removal

2004 Mazda 6 i Engine Mechanical WATER PUMP DRIVE BELT

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Filed Under (Mazda Manuals) by admin on 09-06-2011

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1. Verify that the water pump drive belt auto tensioner indicator mark does not exceeds the limit. ? If it exceeds the limit, replace the water pump drive belt. (See WATER PUMP DRIVE BELT .) Fig. 20: Water Pump Drive Belt Auto Tensioner Limit Indicator Mark – Normal WATER PUMP DRIVE BELT 1. Remove the plug hole plate. 2. Rotate the water pump drive belt auto tensioner counterclockwise to release the drive belt tension and remove the water pump drive belt. 3. Reinstall the water pump drive belt or install a new water pump drive belt. WATER PUMP DRIVE BELT PULLEY REMOVAL NOTE 1. Replace part A of the SST [303-009 (49 UN30 3009)] with the SST [303-457 (49 UN30 3457)].

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Troubleshooting and Resolving Water Leaks for FUNSPORT Sunroofs

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 13-03-2012

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1. Opening the sunroof, just after it rains. Standing water on the glass will usually result in water dripping into the cabin. This is not a sunroof fault. Prevention is the solution! Simply drive a short distance to allow any standing water to blow off the glass prior to opening the sunroof. 2. Only after a car wash. High pressure water sprayed directly at the seal will often deflect the seal enough to enter the cabin. This is not a sunroof fault. Prevention is the solution! Don’t spray high pressure water directly on the seal. 3. During a rainstorm, water is immediately visible dripping on the rubber seal under the glass. There may be a problem with glass to seal contact. Carefully examine the seal. If it is visibly damaged or worn, it may need replacement. If dirty, it needs cleaning. An adjustment may solve the problem. Always water test to verify (see sprinkle test procedure below). a. Often dirt or debris will prevent proper contact between the glass and seal. Clean both the glass and seal with plain water (a damp cloth), or if very dirty, a mild detergent solution. Repeat water test after cleaning. If water intrusion between glass and seal continues, adjust the glass hardware. b. Adjust the glass hardware to increase clamping pressure on the seal. See procedure below. Repeat water test after adjusting. If water intrusion between glass and seal continues, replace seal. 4. Water is visible dripping through the glass hardware: Water test to verify (soak and sprinkle). You may need to slightly shift the glass hardware or change the rubber gaskets under the rectangular mounting plates. 5. After a long soaking rain the headliner gets wet. This is likely the result of water coming under the main frame or under the seal. Only a soak test will prove this. a. Under the main frame: remove the screw cover strip or pull back the headliner (of wrapped) and examine the clamping screws. Water spots or rusty screws are an indication that water is coming under the main frame. Remove the clamp frame and water spots or rust will likely be visible on the inside of the roofskin. This can be the result of an over-cut hole, a sunroof not centered on the hole (left a gap) or inadequate sealant. Solution: Remove the sunroof and re-install with new sealant. If the hole was over-cut, a larger size may be required. b. Underneath the main seal: carefully examine and verify proper seal insertion around perimeter of sunroof frame. Bottom of seal should be adhered to main frame with butyl tape. Top outer lip should be mechanically inserted into groove in frame. You may be able to manipulate the seal slightly to correct the problem. Otherwise replace the seal. c. Frame joint: typically will see water spots or rust on hinge block and handle mounting screws, particularly on the right hand side. Remove the knock-in bead and examine the channel for water or water spots. Solution: pull back the main seal at the passenger side and apply a small amount of silicone sealant across the frame joint. Allow to dry before reinserting the main seal.

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1998 Acura 3.5RL FUEL PUMP RELAY (3.5RL) INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Acura Manuals) by admin on 13-06-2011

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Fuel pump relay is located in the front of the trunk. Turn ignition switch to START position. If engine starts, go to next step. If engine does not start, go to FUEL PUMP RESISTOR (3.5RL) . 2. Turn engine off and ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and PCM 12-pin connector terminal No. 4 (Green wire). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, go to step 4). 3. Start engine and run at 3000 RPM with no loads and transmission in Park or Neutral, until radiator fan comes on. Allow engine to idle for at least one minute. Turn engine off. Disconnect vacuum hose No. 21 from vacuum manifold. Apply 8-12 in. Hg (27-40 kPa) vacuum to Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. Start engine and run at 6500 RPM with no loads and transmission in Park or Neutral. Measure voltage between ground and PCM 12-pin connector terminal No. 4 (Green wire). If less than one volt is present, fuel pump relay circuit is okay. If one volt or more is present, substitute a known good PCM, then recheck. If symptom or indication goes away, replace original PCM. 4. Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM 26-pin and 12-pin connectors. Disconnect fuel pump relay 4-pin connector. Using a fused jumper wire, connect fuel pump relay connector terminals No. 2 (Red/White wire) and No. 4 (Green wire). Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and PCM 12-pin connector terminal No. 4 (Green wire). If battery voltage is not present, go to next step. If battery voltage is present, replace fuel pump relay. 5. Remove jumper wire. Measure voltage between ground and fuel pump relay 4-pin connector terminal No. 2 (Red/White wire). If battery voltage is present, repair open or short in Green wire between PCM and fuel pump relay. If battery voltage is not present, repair open in Red/White wire between fuel pump relay and FUEL PUMP fuse No. 22 (20-amp), located in underdash fuse/relay box. FUEL PUMP RESISTOR (3.5RL) 1. Fuel pump resistor is located in the left corner of the trunk. Disconnect fuel pump resistor 2-pin connector. Turn ignition on and measure voltage between ground and fuel pump resistor connector terminal No. 2 (Yellow wire) within 2 seconds. If battery voltage is present for 2 seconds after ignition is turned on, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present as specified, check PGM-FI relay. See PGM- FI MAIN RELAY . 2. Turn ignition off. Using a jumper wire, connect fuel pump resistor connector terminals No. 1 (Black/Yellow wire) and No. 2 (Yellow wire). Turn ignition switch to START position. If engine does not start, go to next step. If engine starts, replace fuel pump resistor. 3. Turn ignition off. Disconnect fuel unit sub-harness Gray, 10-pin connector located in front of trunk, above fuel pump access panel, next to Gray, 20-pin connector. Turn ignition on and measure voltage between ground and sub-harness connector terminal No. 7 (Black/Yellow wire) within 2 seconds. If battery voltage is present for 2 seconds after ignition is turned on, check fuel pump. If battery voltage is present as specified, repair open in Black/Yellow wire between fuel pump resistor and fuel pump

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2004-2008 FORD F150 FRONT LEVELING SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 19-12-2011

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Front End Installation: 1. To begin installation, block the rear tires of the vehicle so that the vehicle is stable and can’t roll backwards. Safely lift the front of the vehicle and support the frame with jack stands. Place jack stands on both the driver and the p sides of the vehicle. Next remove the wheel from both sides. assenger s 2. Remove the upper strut mounts with a 15-mm wrench or . m socket. Using a ball cket. Use an socket. You will need a socket to remove the far strut mount 3. Remove the sway bar lower link pin bolt from the bottom of the control arm with an 18 mm socket. 4. Disconnect the tie rod end with a 21 m peen hammer or impact tool, hit the steering knuckle (not the tie rod) until the tie rod pops out. If you use a tie rod pickle fork, be careful not to cut the tie rod boot. A severed tie rod boot will allow dirt and moisture to damage the tie rod end. 5. Remove the upper ball joint nut with a 21 mm so impact tool or ball peen hammer and hit the steering knuckle until the upper control arm pops out.
6. Support the knuckle with a bungee cord or safety wire so not to overextend the CV axel or stretch the brake hydraulic hose. 7. Next remove the struts lower bolt. Using a 27 mm wrench, hold the nut and remove the bolt with a 30 mm socket. 8. Remove the strut assembly. 9. Place the strut extension on the top of the strut, hold the part up to start the nuts onto the factory studs. ** Caution: Use the factory nuts with the factory studs** 10. Run down nuts snug with end wrench. Torque to OEM specs. 11. Place strut back into upper strut mount. Tighten provided nuts snug with wrench or ratchet (after install, you will torque to OEM specs). 12. Use a pry bar to position the lower control arm and the strut mount to reinstall the mounting bolt. Torque to OEM specs. 13. Place a jack under the lower control arm. Raise the lower control arm to reattach the ball joint. A pry bar may be used to hold the upper control arm into position. Torque the ball joint nut to OEM specs. 14. Reattach the tie rod end. Torque to OEM specs. 15. Reattach the sway bar. Torque to OEM specs. 16. Reattach the wheel. Torque to OEM specs. 17. Repeat on opposite side. 18. Lower vehicle to ground and torque strut mounts to OEM specs. 19. Align the vehicle. A certified alignment technician that is experienced with lifted vehicles is recommended to perform the alignment

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1998 Dodge Grand Caravan Fuel Pump Relay Removal And Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Dodge Manuals) by admin on 13-06-2012

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Fuel Pump Relay 1. Remove fuel pump relay from power distribution center at driver’s side front corner of engine compartment, near the battery. Note terminal identification on fuel pump relay. See Fig. 6 . 2. To check fuel pump relay resistance, use ohmmeter and check resistance between terminals No. 85 and 86 on fuel pump relay. Replace fuel pump relay if resistance is not 70-80 ohms. 3. To check fuel pump relay operation, connect ohmmeter between terminals No. 30 and 87A on fuel pump relay. See Fig. 6 . Ohmmeter should indicate continuity between terminals No. 30 and 87A on fuel pump relay. 4. Connect ohmmeter between terminals No. 30 and 87 on fuel pump relay. See Fig. 6 . Ohmmeter should indicate no continuity between terminals No. 30 and 87 on fuel pump relay. 5. Connect 16-gauge jumper wire between negative battery terminal and terminal No. 85 on fuel pump relay. Connect 16-gauge jumper wire between positive battery terminal and terminal No. 86 on fuel pump relay. 6. Fuel pump relay should now be energized. No continuity should now exist between terminals No. 30 and 87A on fuel pump relay. Continuity should now exist between terminals No. 30 and 87 on fuel pump relay. Disconnect jumper wires. Replace fuel pump relay if defective. 7. If fuel pump relay or wiring circuit failure exists, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be stored in Powertrain Control Module (PCM). See appropriate G – TESTS W/CODES article. Fig. 6: Identifying ASD Relay & Fuel Pump Relay Terminals Courtesy of CHRYSLER CORP.

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1997 Jeep Cherokee 2WD Serpentine Belt INSPECTION ADJUSTMENT REMOVAL And INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Jeep Manuals) by admin on 05-01-2012

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INSPECTION When inspecting serpentine drive belts, small cracks that run across the ribbed surface of the belt from rib to rib are considered normal. If the the cracks are running along the rib (rather across), this is not normal and the belt(s) must be replaced. ADJUSTMENT It is not necessary to adjust belt tension on the 5.2L or 5.9L engines and on the 2.5L and 4.0L engines (without power steering). These engines are equipped with an automatic tensioner. The tensioner maintains correct tension at all times. 2.5L and 4.0L Engines With Power Steering See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 If the vehicle is not equipped with power steering, it will be equipped with an idler pulley. If equipped with an idler pulley, refer to and follow the 5.2L/5.9L belt removal and installation procedure. Loosen the pump upper pivot bolt, lower locknut and pump adjusting bolt using a ratchet and 13mm socket or a 13mm box wrench. 1. Use a belt tension gauge placed in the middle of the belt being tested. Proper tension for a new belt is 180-200 lbs. (800-900 N) and 140-160 lbs. (623-712 N) for a used belt. 2. Tighten the pump adjusting bolt to achieve proper tension and recheck the belt tension. 3. Fig. Fig. 1: Loosen the pivot bolt (1), then the locking bolt (2) to loosen the power steering pump from behind Fig. Fig. 2: Use a ratchet and 13mm size socket to rotate the power steering pump Fig. Fig. 3: Adjustment points on the 2.5L engines without power steering (rear view) Fig. Fig. 4: Adjustment points on the 2.5L engine (front view) Removal & Installation 2.5L and 4.0L Engines With Power Steering See Figures 5, 6 and 7 Fig. Fig. 5: Proper belt routing diagram can usually be found on a sticker located in the engine compartment Fig. Fig. 6: Common 4.0L engine serpentine belt routing Fig. Fig. 7: Common 2.5L engine serpentine belt routing Loosen the rear power steering pump mounting bolts using a ratchet and 13mm socket or a 13mm box wrench. 1. Loosen the pump upper pivot bolt, lower locknut and the pump adjusting bolt using a ratchet and 13mm socket or a 13mm box wrench. 2. Remove the belt. 3. To install: Install the belt. 4. Tighten the pump adjusting bolt to achieve proper tension. 5. Install the pump rear mounting bolts, pivot bolt and locknut. Tighten the bolts to 20. ft. lbs. (27 Nm). 6. Check the belt for proper tension. If tension is incorrect, refer to the adjustment procedure in this section. 7. 5.2L and 5.9L Engines See Figures 8, 9 and 10

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1999-2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA FRONT LEVELING SYSTEM FOR THE 6-LUG SUSPENSION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 04-12-2011

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1. To begin installation, block the rear tires of the vehicle so that the vehicle is stable and can’t roll backwards. Safely lift the front of the vehicle and support the frame with jack stands. Place jack stands on both the driver and the passenger sides of the vehicle. Next remove the wheels from both sides. 2. Using a 17mm socket, remove the lower sway bar link bolt from both sides. HINT: If the stud turns together with the nut use a hex wrench or vice grips to hold the stud . 4. Next remove the strut’s lower mounting bolt with a 19 mm socket and wrench. NOTE: Once the nut is removed, it may be necessary to use a punch and hammer to free the bolt. 5. Remove the nuts from the three upper strut mounting bolts with a 14 mm ratchet. Be sure to support the strut assembly as the nuts are removed to prevent it from falling. 6. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle and mount it in a bench vise. Install the steel strut extension on the top of the strut assembly. ** Caution: Use the factory nuts with the factory studs** 7. Run down nuts snug with end wrench. Torque to OEM specs. NOTE: Because of the shape of the steel spacer the strut will be rotated 180° when reinstalled. 8. Place strut back into upper strut mount. Tighten provided nuts snug with a 14mm wrench or ratchet (after install, you will torque to OEM specs). 9. Use a pry bar to position the lower control arm and the strut mount, and then reinstall the mounting bolt. Torque to OEM specs. 10. Place a jack under the lower control arm. Raise the lower control arm to reattach the lower ball joint bolts. Torque the ball joint nuts to OEM specs. 11. Repeat Steps 3 through 10 on the opposite side of the vehicle. 12. Reattach the sway bar link assembly on both sides of the vehicle. Torque to OEM specs. For 2wd trucks skip Step 13. 13. For 4×4 models only it is necessary to lower the differential using the provided spacers and bolts. Install the spacers following the instructions provided with the spacers. 14. Reattach the wheels. Torque to OEM specs. 15. Lower vehicle to the ground and torque strut mounts to OEM specs. 16. Align the vehicle. A certified alignment technician that is experienced with lifted vehicles is recommended to perform the alignment

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1994 Mitsubishi Expo LRV TIMING BELT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Mitsubishi Manuals) by admin on 30-04-2012

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Removal 1. Remove radiator shroud, cooling fan and pulley. Remove all drive belts and crankshaft pulleys. Remove upper timing belt covers and gaskets. Note bolt length and location. 2. Remove crankshaft sprocket bolt and washer. Rotate crankshaft clockwise (as viewed from timing belt end of engine) until cylinder No. 1 is at TDC of compression stroke. Align timing mark on camshaft sprocket with mark on cylinder head. See Fig. 5 . 3. Loosen timing belt tensioner adjustment bolt, and move tensioner toward water pump. Tighten bolt to secure tensioner. Remove front timing belt and tensioner. DO NOT rotate crankshaft after timing belt has been removed. 4. Remove camshaft sprocket (if necessary). Remove oil pump sprocket access plug from cylinder block. See Fig. 4 . Insert a .31″ (8.0 mm) diameter Phillips screwdriver to block left silent shaft. 5. Remove oil pump sprocket nut, and remove sprocket. Remove front crankshaft sprocket and flange. Note direction and order of installation for reassembly reference. 6. Remove rear timing belt tensioner assembly. Remove rear timing belt. Remove right silent shaft sprocket with spacer (if necessary). Remove rear crankshaft sprocket with key Installation 1. Install rear crankshaft sprocket and flange. Install right silent shaft sprocket and spacer. Spacer should be installed with chamfered end into oil seal. Align timing marks. See Fig. 5 . 2. Install rear tensioner. Hold tensioner tightly against belt while tightening bolts. Ensure deflection is .20- .28″ (5.0-7.1 mm). See Fig. 6 . Install camshaft sprocket. Tighten camshaft sprocket bolt to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . 3. Install front timing belt tensioner, tension spring and spacer. Ensure spring is properly engaged against water pump case. Rotate tensioner toward water pump, and temporarily tighten bolts. Ensure timing marks are aligned. See Fig. 5 . Install timing belt on crankshaft. 4. Apply pressure on tension side of timing belt while installing belt (in order) on crankshaft, oil pump and camshaft sprockets. Loosen tensioner to apply spring pressure to timing belt. 5. To apply tension to belt, rotate crankshaft clockwise until camshaft sprocket timing mark is offset by 2 teeth. Tighten tensioner bolt. Tighten tensioner spacer nut

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