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Various Concerns With Shifter and/or Ignition Key (Replace Shifter Assembly/Shifter Components or Ignition Lock Cylinder )

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 05-05-2012

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2005-2007 Chevrolet Cobalt 2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only) 2007 Pontiac G5 with Automatic Transmission 4T45-E (RPO MN5) The illustration above shows the switch in a correct position. Cause 3 Metal flashing left in the cylinder may cause a high effort to rotate the key. Cause 4 The slider may be binding in the guides. This may cause the shifter to become difficult to operate. Correction 1 Verify that the shifter button is inoperative by evaluating if the park pawl pin on the shifter assembly moves when activating the button. If the parking pawl does not move when the button is activated, the shifter handle will have to be replaced. Refer to Floor Shifter Control Knob Replacement in SI. Correction 2 Important: A change has been made to the shifter assembly for service. The replacement shifter assembly will read PRNDIL (Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive, Intermediate and Low). Verify that the micro switch is out of position. Replace the shifter assembly. Refer to Transmission Control Replacement in SI. Correction 3 Important: Refer to instruction sheet that is supplied with the lock cylinder kit. BO 47869 is an essential staking tool and must be used for the repair. Replace the ignition lock cylinder. Refer to Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement in SI. Correction 4 Replace the slide indicator and guides in the shifter following the procedure below: 1. Apply the parking brake. 2. Remove the upper console trim. Refer to Trim Plate Replacement-Console Front in SI. 3. Remove shifter knob. Refer to Floor Shifter Control Knob Replacement in SI. 4. Remove the indicator plate. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to release the locking tabs. 5. Remove the shifter indicator lens. 6. Pull up on the indicator and remove it from the assembly. 7. Remove the two front rails by unsnapping the front and lifting up, and then back, to remove the rails from the shifter assembly. 8. Install the new guides. Place the hook end into the assembly and push down. It will snap into place. 9. Install the new slide indicator. With the transmission in neutral, place the slide over the shifter and into the guides. Move the slide indicator down the guides in the front and rear. Important: Replace the shifter indicator lens if damage is present due to the slider binding or if it becomes damaged during disassembly. 10. Install the shift indicator lens. 11. Install the shift indicator plate. 12. Install the shifter knob. Refer to Floor Shifter Control Knob Replacement in SI. 13. Install the upper console trim. Refer to Trim Plate Replacement-Console Front in SI

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HIGH TECH DUAL QUAD THROTTLE LINKAGE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 02-01-2012

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INSTALLATION 1. This kit contains all the necessary parts to operate Edelbrock carburetors in a progressive or 1: 1 type operation. Figure 1 illustrates typical progressive type installation in which the rear carburetor is the primary carb. This simplifies linkage attachment to the vehicle’s existing throttle linkage. 2. Before attaching anything to the carburetors, loosely assemble the major components of the linkage kit using Figure 1 as a guideline. Note that the longer rod will go to the rear carb with the flat facing down, and the short rod goes to the front carb with the flat facing up. The brass bearing blocks should be positioned so that the set screws will tighten against the flat of the short rod, i.e., both bearing block set screws will be up. Attach the aluminum collar to the long rod between the bearing blocks with the set screw against the flat. 3. Attach the linkage assembly to the carbs with the 10-24 allen head screws and locknuts. Attach to the rear carb using one of the brass 518″ O.D. x 3/16″ I.D. shoulder spacers and the tapered brass anti-rotation shoulder spacer in the top hole of the throttle arm (112″ diameter). Note that the shoulder spacer goes on the inside and the anti-rotation spacer goes on the outside of the throttle arm. Attach to the front carb using the 3/16″ hole just below the large hole in the throttle arm. ADJUSTMENT – NOTE: If carburetors are full of fuel, place rags in the carb throats to absorb the fuel discharged when working the throttle linkage. This will prevent flooding and possible damage to the piston rings upon start-up. Be sure to remove the rags before starting engine. 1. Tighten the set screw and locknut on the rear bearing block, making sure that the bearing block is close to the end of the shaft from the front carburetor. 2. Push the throttle arms of both carbs to WOT (Wide Open Throttle), then adjust the aluminum collar to touch the rear brass bearing block. Securely tighten the set screw and locknut on the aluminum collar. 3. Let both throttle arms return to idle position, then adjust the front brass bearing block to almost touch the aluminum collar. Leave about .020″-.030″ clearance to allow for independent idle speed adjustment of each carburetor. Tighten all set screws, locknuts, and bolts at this time. 4. Check for smooth operation of linkage from idle to WOT and note that the rear carb will open about 20″ before starting to open the front carb. Both carbs should reach WOT at the same time. 5. IMPORTANT: Attach a return spring to both carburetors as shown in Figure 1. Use the return spring brackets supplied, bending as necessary for attachment to your engine. Generally the brackets can be attached to the intake manifold using the existing bolts. Use the longer or shorter spring on either the front or rear carburetor as required for your particular application. Check for smooth operation and positive return to idle. 6. Attach existing throttle linkage to rear carburetor using the 3/16″ hole below the large hole in the throttle arm. It may be necessary to shorten your existing linkage rod or cable, or to use an aftermarket cable mounting plate. BEFORE STARTING ENGINE, DOUBLE-CHECK FOR SMOOTH OPERATION OF LINKAGE FROM IDLE TO WIDE OPEN THROTTLE AND FOR POSITIVE RETURN TO IDLE. OPTIONAL 1:l INSTALLATION If 1:l linkage is desired, assemble and attach linkage kit as above, except that the attachment point to the front carburetor’s throttle arm will be the large 112″ hole using the other two 518″ O.D. x 3/16″ I.D. shoulder spacers (similar to the rear carburetor). Adjust the bearing blocks to eliminate all freeplay, so that all motion to the rear carburetor’s throttle arm is transmitted directly to the front carb’s throttle arm

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HIGH TECH DUAL QUAD THROTTLE LINKAGE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 24-02-2012

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INSTALLATION 1. This kit contains all the necessary parts to operate Edelbrock carburetors in a progressive or 1: 1 type operation. Figure 1 illustrates typical progressive type installation in which the rear carburetor is the primary carb. This simplifies linkage attachment to the vehicle’s existing throttle linkage. 2. Before attaching anything to the carburetors, loosely assemble the major components of the linkage kit using Figure 1 as a guideline. Note that the longer rod will go to the rear carb with the flat facing down, and the short rod goes to the front carb with the flat facing up. The brass bearing blocks should be positioned so that the set screws will tighten against the flat of the short rod, i.e., both bearing block set screws will be up. Attach the aluminum collar to the long rod between the bearing blocks with the set screw against the flat. 3. Attach the linkage assembly to the carbs with the 10-24 allen head screws and locknuts. Attach to the rear carb using one of the brass 518″ O.D. x 3/16″ I.D. shoulder spacers and the tapered brass anti-rotation shoulder spacer in the top hole of the throttle arm (112″ diameter). Note that the shoulder spacer goes on the inside and the anti-rotation spacer goes on the outside of the throttle arm. Attach to the front carb using the 3/16″ hole just below the large hole in the throttle arm. ADJUSTMENT – NOTE: If carburetors are full of fuel, place rags in the carb throats to absorb the fuel discharged when working the throttle linkage. This will prevent flooding and possible damage to the piston rings upon start-up. Be sure to remove the rags before starting engine. 1. Tighten the set screw and locknut on the rear bearing block, making sure that the bearing block is close to the end of the shaft from the front carburetor. 2. Push the throttle arms of both carbs to WOT (Wide Open Throttle), then adjust the aluminum collar to touch the rear brass bearing block. Securely tighten the set screw and locknut on the aluminum collar. 3. Let both throttle arms return to idle position, then adjust the front brass bearing block to almost touch the aluminum collar. Leave about .020″-.030″ clearance to allow for independent idle speed adjustment of each carburetor. Tighten all set screws, locknuts, and bolts at this time. 4. Check for smooth operation of linkage from idle to WOT and note that the rear carb will open about 20″ before starting to open the front carb. Both carbs should reach WOT at the same time. 5. IMPORTANT: Attach a return spring to both carburetors as shown in Figure 1. Use the return spring brackets supplied, bending as necessary for attachment to your engine. Generally the brackets can be attached to the intake manifold using the existing bolts. Use the longer or shorter spring on either the front or rear carburetor as required for your particular application. Check for smooth operation and positive return to idle. 6. Attach existing throttle linkage to rear carburetor using the 3/16″ hole below the large hole in the throttle arm. It may be necessary to shorten your existing linkage rod or cable, or to use an aftermarket cable mounting plate. BEFORE STARTING ENGINE, DOUBLE-CHECK FOR SMOOTH OPERATION OF LINKAGE FROM IDLE TO WIDE OPEN THROTTLE AND FOR POSITIVE RETURN TO IDLE. OPTIONAL 1:l INSTALLATION If 1:l linkage is desired, assemble and attach linkage kit as above, except that the attachment point to the front carburetor’s throttle arm will be the large 112″ hole using the other two 518″ O.D. x 3/16″ I.D. shoulder spacers (similar to the rear carburetor). Adjust the bearing blocks to eliminate all freeplay, so that all motion to the rear carburetor’s throttle arm is transmitted directly to the front carb’s throttle arm

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Honda Civic / Acura Integra Short Shifter INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda Manuals) by admin on 18-02-2011

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1) Raise the vehicle. Use ramps or a jack and jack stands. NEVER work under a vehicle that is supported by the jack. 2) Remove the stock shift knob from inside the vehicle by twisting it counterclockwise. 3) Underneath the car, remove the bolt that attaches the shifter to the shift rod. Move the shift rod out of the way. 4) Remove the two locknuts and the shift ball holder plate. Pull the stock shifter out taking care to not damage the shift boot inside the car. 5) Inspect the shifter ball seat (plastic piece) and replace if worn or damaged. 6) Rub a small amount of white lithium or synthetic grease around the ball of the JG Edelbrock shifter. Guide the shifter up into the assembly. Before pushing it all the way in, guide the threaded end through the shifter boot from inside the vehicle. Make sure that the shifter bend is pointed towards the driver. 7) For Integra’s, use the long (45.5 mm) pin and the thick and thin aluminum spacers for side clearance. Lubricate the distance pin with white lithium or synthetic grease. 9) Re-install bolt and locking nut – torque to 16 ft-lbs. 8) For Civics, use the short (30.5mm) distance pin with the washers for side spacers. Lubricate the pin with white lithium or synthetic grease

2003 Ford Truck Expedition Suspension – Air Suspension Height Sensor Linkage Loose Service Procedure

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 10-01-2012

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ISSUE Some 2003-2006 Expedition and Navigator vehicles equipped with an air suspension may exhibit an air suspension height sensor linkage arm disengaging from the suspension ball stud or height sensor rotating arm. This concern typically occurs with the rear sensor (Figure 1) but may occur with the front sensors as well. If this occurs, the symptom will typically be the vehicle leaning to one side, the vehicle sitting too low/high, a harsh ride, and/or an inoperative air suspension. In addition, this concern may result in diagnostic trouble code (DTC) C1725 (air suspension front pneumatic failure) or C1726 (air suspension rear pneumatic failure). ACTION When a linkage arm becomes disengaged, do not re-attach the arm and do not replace the sensor unless broken. Instead, install a revised linkage arm on all three (3) sensor assemblies, even if they have not detached from the ball stud. 1. Replace linkage arms on all three (3) sensor assemblies following Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 204-05. 2. Discard the old linkage arms. NOTE IF THE SENSOR ASSEMBLY NEEDS TO BE REPLACED FOR ANY DAMAGE/FAILURE OTHER THAN THE ONE DESCRIBED IN THIS TSB, THE REPLACEMENT ASSEMBLY IS SUPPLIED WITH A NEW STYLE LINKAGE ARM, SO THERE IS NO NEED TO ORDER ADDITIONAL LINKAGES FOR THE SERVICE REPAIR. WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 061510A 2003-2006 0.4 Hr. Expedition/Navigator: Replace The Three Linkage Arms, Includes Time To Check Diagnostic Trouble Codes (Do Not Use With 5300A, 5300A7, 5300A8) DEALER CODING CONDITION BASIC PART NO. CODE 5A967

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Steering, Brake And Suspension Specialists Proportioning Valve Diagram

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 01-10-2011

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This diagram is the most common way to plumb a proportioning valve. In some cases, the right front line will be plugged off at the proportioning valve and the left front line will go to a “T” fitting. From the “T” fitting, the front lines then split off and go to the left and right wheels. Our proportioning valve has a warning light switch built in (this is not a stop light switch.) The warning light will detect any loss of pressure, for example, a leaky wheel cylinder. We recommend you wire this light into your system. Any two wire light socket will work. One wire goes to the accessory power and the other goes to the warning light. Our proportioning valves provide four functions: 1. Proportion pressure front and rear 2. 10 psi. residual check valve 3. Metering valve to apply pressure to the rear brakes before the front brakes 4. A brake warning light to detect a loss in pressure Proportioning Valve Plumbing Diagram: There are two proportioning valve lines that connect to the master cylinder provided in our kits. The first is a 90 degree bend with one leg longer than the other. This line must be oriented with the long leg connected into the front top hole of the proportioning valve and the short end in the front hole on the master cylinder. The second line has two 90 degree bends and has color coded fittings. The larger blue fitting goes into the back hole on the master cylinder and the smaller gold fitting goes into the back top hole on the proportion valve as shown in the diagram

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2000 Dodge Dakota & Durango Power Windows ADJUSTMENTS

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Filed Under (Dodge Manuals) by admin on 18-06-2012

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ADJUSTMENTS WINDOWS Remove door trim panel. See DOOR TRIM PANEL under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Loosen bolts holding window to regulator. Raise window fully, seating window in frame. Tighten bolts. Install door trim panel. TROUBLE SHOOTING POWER WINDOWS On Dakota, inspect circuit breaker No. 20 (20-amp) in junction block. On Durango inspect circuit breaker No. 21 (25-amp) in junction block. On all models, junction block is located on left end of instrument panel. Inspect fuse No. 9 (40-amp on Dakota, 50-amp on Durango) in Power Distribution Center (PDC). PDC is located in left front corner of engine compartment. Inspect power window system ground circuit. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . SYSTEM TESTS ALL WINDOWS INOPERATIVE Dakota 1. Check circuit breaker for power window system. See TROUBLE SHOOTING . Replace circuit breaker as necessary. If circuit breaker is okay, go to next step. 2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove driver’s front power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 3 (Black wire) at driver power window switch wiring harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Black wire between driver power window 2000 Dodge Durango 2000 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT’ ‘Power Windows – Dakota & Durango 2000 Dodge Durango 2000 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT’ ‘Power Windows – Dakota & Durango switch connector and ground. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . 3. Connect negative battery cable. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 5 (Tan wire) at driver’s power window switch wiring harness connector. If battery voltage is present, check driver power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under COMPONENT TESTS. If battery voltage is not present, repair open Tan wire between driver power window switch connector and ignition switch. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . See POWER DISTRIBUTION article in WIRING DIAGRAMS. Durango 1. Check circuit breaker for power window system. See TROUBLE SHOOTING . Replace circuit breaker as necessary. If circuit breaker is okay, go to next step. 2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove driver’s front power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. 3. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 5 (Black wire) at driver’s power window switch wiring harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Black wire between driver’s power window switch connector and ground. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . 4. Reconnect negative battery cable. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 4 (Tan wire) at driver’s power window switch wiring harness connector. If battery voltage is present, check driver’s power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under COMPONENT TESTS. If battery voltage is not present, repair open Tan wire between driver power window switch connector and ignition switch. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . See POWER DISTRIBUTION article in WIRING DIAGRAMS. ONE WINDOW INOPERATIVE

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Toyota Throttle Body Spacer Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 26-11-2011

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1. Remove Air Intake Assembly and intake box from throttle body. 2. Remove throttle linkage bracket. 3. Remove the vacuum line clip and on some models the linkage bracket. 4. Remove the nuts and studs from the throttle body. 5. Install the JET Power-Flo spacer using one gasket between the throttle body and spacer and one gasket between the spacer and the manifold with the supplied longer bolts and lock washers. 6. Install the throttle linkage extender plate and reinstall the throttle linkage bracket. On the models referenced above that have a second throttle linkage bracket, use the other extender and attach the vacuum line clip to the bottom of the extension plate. 7. Verify that the throttle linkage, cruise control and kick down cables are NOT binding and that the travel on the linkage is correct before you start the vehicle. NOTE: In some instances it may be necessary to readjust the cables for proper travel. Refer to your factory service manual for correct adjustment procedures. 8. Reinstall the Air Intake Assembly.

1995-2002 Toyota Tacoma/ 4Runner 3.4L hrottle Body Spacer Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 23-10-2011

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DISCONNECT NEGATIVE (-) BATTERY CABLE. 2. Remove throttle body air intake assembly. 3. Remove throttle linkage bracket and save 10mm bolt. (Ref. “D”) 4. Remove vacuum line clip, and also linkage bracket used on some models. Save the 8mm bolt for models having a linkage bracket. (Ref. “E”) 5. Remove nuts and studs from the throttle body. (Ref. “C”) 6. Install the power plate using (2) gaskets, (4) 8mm bolts, and (4) 8mm lock washers. (Ref. “A”, “B”, “C”) A. Install one gasket between the throttle body and power plate. B. Install second gasket between the power plate and manifold. 7. Install throttle linkage plate using a 10mm x 20mm bolt and reinstall the throttle linkage bracket using saved 10mm bolt. (Ref. “D”) 8. Install extension plate using 8mm flat head screw and reinstall linkage bracket used on some models with saved 8mm bolt. Attach vacuum line clip to bottom side of extension plate using furnished 8mm bolt. (Ref. “E”) 9. Inspect & Test throttle linkage for full open & closed travel before driving. Some cruise or kickdown cables may require adjustment. Please refer to your vehicles service manual for proper adjusting. 10. Reinstall air intake system using Step 2 as an example. 11. Reconnect battery cable. Enjoy!

Ford F-Series Column Shift Repairs Manual

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 25-05-2012

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It’s a simple system. To remove the assembly, start by removing the column shift lever. This is super easy; just use two small punches to depress the two spring-loaded pivot pins on the lever, then pull the lever out. Be aware: the pivot pins and spring will shoot out. Next go under the hood, and undo the two bolts holding the clamp piece just above the steering box. The lower half of the clamp will come free. The upper half is locked to the “shoe” plate under it, and to the steering column, with a round peg cast into it. So you need to pry the shoe up away from the steering column to get the peg clear of the column. Once you do that, you need to pry the upper half of the clamp away from the shoe, so the peg is clear of the shoe. Once it is clear, you can slide the end piece off the shifter tube. Then slide the wave washer and 2-3 lever off. To get the 1-R lever off, you’ll need to pull a steel pin out of the shifter tube. It should just drop out. Then slide the lever, wave washer, and shoe off the tube. Push the shifter tube up to get the clearance needed for the shoe. The shifter tube is a hollow steel tube, with a hole drilled thru it near the bottom. In this hole there is a steel pin (the one just removed). The steel pin engages into slots in the 1-2 and 3-4 levers, to move them. As you can see, there isn’t a lot of wear in my shift levers’ slots. The pin shows some wear, where the tube contacts it. The pin is hardened steel and the shifter tube is mild steel, so the tube will be worse than the pin. The pins are available from Obsolete Ford Parts and others, P/N 01A-7337, only a couple of bucks. Getting the shifter tube out is pretty easy; just drop the column support (remove the bolts to instrument panel and loosen the pinch bolt) down to the floor, and you’ll be able to swing the shift tube to the side to clear the steering wheel, and pull it out. My pin wasn’t that worn, it’s the hole in the tube. The tube is hollow but actually has a steel plug inside it with a hole for the pin. It is pushed inside the tube and then peened in two places thru the outer tube (they punched the outer tube to lock the inner plug). inner plug had gotten loose inside the tube, too. If this is your situation, you could just drill and pin the plug to the outer tube, and get a good improvement. I wanted “like new”, so I took my shifter tube to my favorite machinist (Gene at Noor Mfg. in Albuquerque, a super guy). He made up a whole new lower end for the tube out of 1018 carbon steel. It’s got a spigot on the upper end that was pressed into the remaining tube, welded, then turned down. It is better than new! Look at the difference in the shape of the hole. Price for the work was very reasonable

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