Time and Difficulty: I found the install to be moderately difficult and pretty time-consuming (about 3 hours) ; others have found it simple and report they have done it in as little as 30 minutes. Your experience will depend on your familiarity with the tools and electronics. I, personally, found insertion of the connection pin into the HV ECU plug to be difficult and almost got the first pin irrevocably stuck in the slot. I spent quite a bit of time with that part alone. I also found threading the wire behind the dash to be fairly tricky. I think the average person, not encountering any problems, could do this job in about 1-1½ hours. Procedure in Brief: 1) Remove bottom cover of steering wheel 2) Locate and unplug flasher plug 3) Open plug and remove 1-3 unused connector pins 4) Reattach steering wheel cover 5) Dismantle part of dash (vents) and remove lower glove box 6) Locate HV ECU (gray plugs) and remove lower plug 7) Solder wire to connector pin and insert into ECU plug (#27) 8) Splice EV button ground wire into ECU plug ground wire (#1) 9) Plug ECU plug back into the ECU 10) Thread wire behind dash to opening near dimmer switch 11) Attach switch to cover and solder wires in place 12) Reassemble the dash 13) Test Procedure in Detail: *Review ALL steps before proceeding and be sure you understand all terms used and you’ve looked at all diagrams and pictures. 1) Remove the bottom cover of the steering wheel by releasing the steering wheel adjustment handle and unscrewing the silver screw in that recess. 2004_prius_evv2.doc Page 4 of 20 Last updated March 13th, 2004 Then, turn the steering wheel 90 degrees right and remove the black screw that becomes visible on the right side of the steering column. Then turn the wheel 180 degrees left (90 degrees from normal position) and remove the black screw on the left side of the steering column. Carefully pull down on the lower portion of the steering column cover until it releases. Mine was a bit stiff/stuck to the upper part and you may need to carefully use a butter knife or screwdriver to start prying them apart. 2004_prius_evv2.doc Page 5 of 20 Last updated March 13th, 2004 2) Locate and unplug the white flasher plug visible just on the left side of the bottom of the steering column. 3) 2 little clips keep a cover locked in place. Pull those apart and remove the cover. Inside you’ll see lines of silver connector pins–some with wires attached, some without. You should remove between 1 and 3 of those pins–2 is probably safe, 3 might be better, since if you plan to install an OEM button at some point, you’ll probably need more pins for that. (You need one pin for the procedure, but it’s handy to have a back-up.) To remove the pins, you can use your paper clip to start the process of sliding them out, and then they just pull right out. 2004_prius_evv2.doc Page 6 of 20 Last updated March 13th, 2004 Stick them to a piece of tape or put them somewhere secure so you can find them later. Snap the cover back into place, and plug the flasher plug back in. 4) Replace the steering wheel cover by reversing the process. Be sure everything’s aligned properly and that there are no gaps. 5) Now you’ll need to dismantle part of the dash to get access to the ECU and other areas. First, open the top and bottom glove box doors. Squeeze the inside sides of the lower glove box together to get the catches past the portion of the dash frame that keeps the door from falling all the way open. Then pull the entire door straight toward you – it will unclip from the hinges at the bottom of the glove box. 2004_prius_evv2.doc Page 7 of 20 Last updated March 13th, 2004 You may also need to unclip the little hydraulic piston that keeps the door from falling open too quickly. Next, grasp the bottom of the silver vent piece next to the glove box. Pull it toward you firmly. It should unclip at the bottom first. Then pull the whole unit straight out
Begin by removing the lower glove compartment. Release the glove compartment latch, the squeeze both sides to release the catches and drop the box out of the dash. Disconnect the damper shock on the right hand side of the box by popping the shock arm from the plastic peg. Then press together on each side of the glove compartment and pull towards you. Remove the box and set it aside. Now, remove the silver passenger air vent to the left of the glove compartment. You can do this by grabbing it from the top and bottom and pulling straight back. Alternatively, you can curl your hand around inside the glove box opening and push the assembly out from the inside. It is helpful to push it from the inside to get it started and makes it easier to remove from the outside. Now is a good time to clean out the cabin air filter. It is located in the top part of the white box shown in the center of the above picture. If it’s really dirty it’s best to replace it. They are less than $20 at the dealer, or you can make your own from a household air conditioner filter. I like to vacuum mine every 4-6 months to keep it clean, and it will probably won’t need to be replaced for a long time.
Continue disassembly of the dash to allow for routing the power and signal wires. Plan your installation as far as the routing for Cyron controller and hub wiring. At this point, you must decide where to store the controller during normal use / driving. I chose to install my controller in the “secret drawer” on the lower front part of the center console, which means running wiring underneath the carpeting between the center console and the curved panel. The simpler option that requires less wire routing is to store it in the glove box. To remove the curved panel, begin by removing the plastic Christmas tree push pin from the passenger side of the curved panel. You can remove it with a flat screwdriver or gently pull the panel straight back and the pin will come loose. The driver’s side of the curved panel is held by a metal post with a plastic catch. Once the push pin is removed, pull the panel straight back and it will pop loose. The panel is fairly easy to remove and it will pop back in place on re-assembly. Once the curved panel is loose, remove the connector from the 12v accessory socket and set the panel aside. The connector is polarized so it will only fit the accessory socket in one orientation, so there is no need to mark it.
Remove the curved panel by gently pulling straight back. It will pop lose from the dash
Items required for installation: Push pin 10mm bolt 10mm nut TOYOTA PRIUS 2010 FOG LAMP KIT 1 of 4 01-25-2010 STEP 3.2 • Attach fog lamp to bezel. STEP 3.3 • Fog lamp and bezel assembly. STEP 3.4 • Place fog lamp and bezel assembly onto vehicle. Fasten fog lamp to vehicle with 10mm nut and supplied screw. ( Repeat step 3 for passenger side ) STEP 4.0 Removal of interior trim on driver side STEP 4.1 • Pull up on lower door trim. STEP 4.2 • Foot panel-Remove 16mm plastic nut. STEP 4.3 • Pull foot panel inward toward center console. STEP 4.4 • Remove screw. STEP 4.5 • Disconnect hood release cable from latch by pulling down on the black cable freeing it from its location. Then moving the cable to the left away from the mounting bracket. STEP 4.6 • Remove cable from latch. STEP 4.7 • Pull lower left interior panel away from dash and unplug connectors. CAUTION! You may damage wiring and connectors if you pull too hard. Driver side interior removed. 2 of 4 01-25-2010 STEP 4.8 • Remove two screws and push back on tab to free lower panel. STEP 4.9 • Unplug connector and wire harness from panel and remove panel by pulling it toward the driver seat. STEP 5.0 Fog lamp switching wiring • Run WHITE wire through V-channel and pull female bullet connector end towards fire wall. • Connect ground wire to dashboard frame. STEP 5.4 • Plug green connector into fog lamp switch. (Plug all connectors removed from Step 4 and place panel back in position) STEP 6.0 Fog lamp wiring harness • From the panel removed under the steering wheel locate hole in grommet. STEP 6.1 • Puncture hole with O-ring pick/Philips screw driver or any sharp object no larger that the black tubing. (You want a tight seal between grommet and wire). STEP 5.1 • Remove tape from lower connector on ECU and locate BROWN wire. Use the bridge connector to connect RED wire to BROWN wire. You may need to cut RED wire to proper length. STEP 5.2 • Remove. STEP 5.3 • Replace with fog lamp switch. STEP 6.2 • Insert coat hanger or welding rod through punctured hole. Push rod far enough into engine compartment so you can retrieve it. STEP 6.3 • Bend tip or rod with needle nose pliers. STEP 6.4 • Insert hook end into bullet connector making sure black tubing is close to rod. V-channel Ground 3 of 4 01-25-2010 STEP 6.5 IMPORTANT! Wrap electrical tape around connector, tubing and rod. It is important that all three be secured as one unit so not to rip connector from wiring. You want tubing to take as much of the pull force as possible. STEP 6.6 • Apply soapy water to the entire length of black tubing and from the inside of the vehicle pull rod until wire breaks through grommet. 2.5-3ft of wiring should be sufficient. STEP 6.7 • Run wiring along side the black tube indicated until it meets female end of the WHITE fog lamp wire switch. STEP 6.8 • Connect both ends together and tie strap wiring to black tube. STEP 6.9 • On the top left corner of the fuse box (to the right of the brake fluid reservoir) locate silver ECU mounting bracket. STEP 6.10 • Remove 10mm bolts and attach BLACK ground and relay as indicated. STEP 6.11 • Attach harness connector to relay. STEP 6.12 • Run wire harness between ECU and fuse box. Run RED power wire along the same path as WHITE power wire in fuse box. Connect RED power wire to 12V power source directly above WHITE cable. STEP 7.0 Connecting wire harness to fog lamps • Run wiring for driver and passenger side lamps down toward driver side fog lamp. • Connect shortest harness to driver side fog lamp. Run wire harness alongside turn signal harness. • Use the supplied tie straps to secure passenger side wire harness along the radiator support frame shown. • Connect harness to fog lamp • END of installation