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2011 ford escape throttle body repair

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2001 Ford F-150 Draining-Coalescer/ Pressure Relief-Natural Gas Bi-Fuel System Repair Manual

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1. Relieve the Bi-fuel system fuel pressure. For additional information, refer to Pressure Relief—Natural Gas Bi-Fuel System. 2. Raise the vehicle on the hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02. 3. NOTE: There is an O-ring attached to the drain plug. The O-ring must be replaced each time the drain plug is removed. Remove the drain plug. 4. Install the drain plug. 5. Lower the vehicle. 6. Pressurize the fuel system. WARNING: It is important that your bi-fuel vehicle be correctly maintained by Ford bi-fuel trained personnel. If a concern occurs, it is important that correctly trained personnel diagnose the cause. If a concern relates to the fuel system, correct part replacement is imperative to keep your vehicle operating at normal performance. Bi-fuel components and gasoline specific components are not interchangeable. If your vehicle is not serviced in accordance with bi-fuel service procedures, damage can occur and your warranty may be invalidated. WARNING: Fuel supply lines are always pressurized. When servicing fuel related components, do not smoke or carry lighted tobacco or an open flame of any type. Flammable mixtures may be present and can ignite, resulting in personal injury. WARNING: The natural gas fuel system is always pressurized to 655 kPa (95 psi) downstream of the fuel pressure regulator and up to 24821 kPa (3,600 psi) upstream of the fuel pressure regulator. Use care when servicing the fuel system or personal injury can occur. WARNING: The natural gas fuel supply manifold is pressurized to 655 kPa (95 psi). Fuel pressure must be relieved prior to any fuel system service. WARNING: The fuel system pressure must be relieved before any component can be removed. The fuel tanks must be evacuated prior to tank removal. Removal of components without pressure relief or tank evacuation can cause natural gas to escape into the air and cause injury or death.

1997 Ford Explorer/ Mountaineer Intake Manifold Upper Repair Manual

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Intake Manifold — Upper 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube; refer to Section 303-12 3. Disconnect the ignition coil electrical connector and the noise suppressor electrical connector. 4. Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) electrical connector. 5. Disconnect the EGR backpressure transducer electrical connector. 6. Disconnect the EVR solenoid electrical and vacuum connectors. 7. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose from the upper intake manifold. 8. Disconnect the vacuum connector from the upper intake manifold 9. Disconnect the vacuum connector from the fuel pressure regulator and remove the vacuum harness from the engine. 10. Disconnect the throttle position (TP) sensor electrical connector. 11. Disconnect the hoses from the EGR backpressure transducer ports. 12. Disconnect the six spark plug wires from the spark plugs. 13. Disconnect the spark plug wires from the seven retaining clips. 14. Remove the four ignition coil bolts and the ignition coil from the upper intake manifold. 15. Raise and support the vehicle; refer to Section 100-02 . 16. Access the LH exhaust manifold through the wheel well and disconnect the EGR inlet tube from the exhaust manifold (9430). 17. Lower the vehicle. 18. Disconnect the EGR inlet tube from the EGR valve and remove the EGR inlet tube. 19. Remove the EGR valve bolts and the EGR valve and gasket. 20. Remove the oil level indicator tube bracket nut and remove the oil level indicator tube (6754). 21. Remove the EGR outlet tube bracket stud bolt and remove the EGR outlet tube from the upper intake manifold. 22. Disconnect the accelerator cable assembly from the upper intake manifold bracket. 23. Remove the upper intake manifold nuts and remove the upper intake manifold and gasket. Installation 1. NOTE: Before installing the upper intake manifold, the EGR port must be clean and free of obstruction. Use combustion chamber cleaner and a suitable wire brush to remove carbon buildup from the EGR passages. Clean and inspect all surfaces. Install new seals and new gaskets. Use Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A to clean the upper and lower intake manifold gasket surfaces. Position the upper intake manifold gasket on the fuel injection supply manifold. 2. Position the upper intake manifold and install the six nuts.

2001 Ford Truck F 150 Engine – Spark Plug Hole Thread Repair Procedure

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SERVICE PROCEDURE Ford Motor Company now authorizes LOCK-N-STITCH aluminum insert and tool kit as a proper repair procedure. Follow the procedure included in the tool kit for using the tools and inserts. Tool kits and inserts can be ordered from Rotunda by calling 1-800-Rotunda (768- 8632). Choose option two (2), part number 302-00001. NOTE FORD MOTOR COMPANY HAS DETERMINED THAT REPAIRS MADE WITH THESE ALUMINUM INSERTS AND LOCK-N-STITCH TOOLS DO NOT AFFECT THE HEAT TRANSFER FUNCTION BETWEEN THE SPARK PLUG AND THE CYLINDER HEAD. NOTE THIS PROCEDURE IS NOT AUTHORIZED AS A FORD WARRANTY REPAIR. FOR VEHICLES WITHIN WARRANTY, REPLACEMENT OF THE CYLINDER HEAD IS RECOMMENDED. NOTE THIS IS THE ONLY FORD AUTHORIZED PROCEDURE FOR SPARK PLUG THREAD REPAIRS. NOTE THIS PROCEDURE IS AUTHORIZED FOR ESP REPAIRS AND RETAIL REPAIRS. WARRANTY STATUS: Information Only – Not Warrantable

2009 Ford Escape 3.0L INTERMITTENT CYLINDER HEAD CAMSHAFT KNOCK/ THUMP NOISE SERVICE PROCEDURE

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3.0L INTERMITTENT CYLINDER HEAD CAMSHAFT KNOCK/THUMP NOISE This article supersedes TSB 09-11-6 to update the b. Isolate noise to LH – Listen to the cylinders Service Procedure and Part List. 4 and 6 valve cover fasteners (number 6 is by the coolant pump). There will be a ISSUE significant difference in transmitted noise Some 2009 Escape and Mariner vehicles, equipped between the cylinder 4 and 6 fasteners with 3.0L engine, may exhibit an intermittent when noise is present. Noise from LH – go knocking or thumping type noise from the cylinder to Step 4. head. After engine temperature reaches 210-220 °F NOTE (99-104 °C), the noise is typically heard from the THE RH AND LH NOISES HAVE DIFFERENT rear of the engine as the vehicle comes to a stop. CAUSES. FOLLOW ALL STEPS CAREFULLY FOR An example would be coming to a stop at the end PROPER DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR. of a highway exit ramp. Noise will continue 45-60 seconds and then diminish. Noise will occur again 3. Replace the RH cylinder head per Workshop once engine reaches 210-220 °F (99-104 °C) and Manual (WSM), Section 303-01B. vehicle comes to another stop. a. Verify repair by repeating Step 2. If noise is ACTION still present then proceed with normal Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the engine NVH diagnostics per WSM, Section condition. 100-04. SERVICE PROCEDURE 4. Remove LH valve cover. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01. 1. Is noise a 45-60 second knock/thump from a hot engine as the vehicle comes to a stop? a. Rotate the engine clockwise until cylinder number 6 exhaust cam lobes are pointing a. Yes – Go to Step 2. up and valves are fully closed. Exhaust camshaft needs to be left in this position for b. No – Stop as this procedure does not apply. all bearing caps in Step 4b. (Figure 1) Proceed with normal Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 100-04 diagnostics. 2. Using Chassis Ears, isolate the noise to Right Hand (RH) (Bank 1) or Left Hand (LH) (Bank 2) cylinder head. Noise is typically heard as 45-60 second knock/thump as the vehicle comes to a stop after engine reaches 210-220 °F (99-104 °C). a. Isolate noise to RH – Listen to the cylinder head by the variable camshaft timing (VCT) solenoid connectors. There will also be a vibration felt at the VCT solenoid connector when noise is present. Noise from RH – go to Step 3.

2003 Honda Accord EX A/ T INTERLOCK SYSTEM REPAIR MANUAL

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A/T Interlock System Circuit Diagram SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING 1. Press the brake pedal. Are the brake lights ON? YES -Go to step 2. NO -Repair faulty brake light circuit. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC. Check engine speed and throttle position in the A/T data list. Is the engine speed at idle, and TPS about 0.5 V? YES -Go to step 3. NO -Repair engine speed or throttle position input. 3. Select SHIFT LOCK SOL TEST in MISC. TEST MENU, then carry out shift lock solenoid function test. Does the shift lock solenoid work properly? YES -System circuit is OK. Check the shift lock mechanism, if necessary. NO -Go to step 4. 4. Remove the center console (See CENTER CONSOLE REMOVAL/INSTALLATION ). 5. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 7. Measure the voltage between No. 1 terminal of the shift lock solenoid connector and body ground. Fig. 3: Measuring Voltage Between No. 1 Terminal Of Shift Lock Solenoid Connector & Body Ground Is there battery voltage? YES -Go to step 8. NO -Check for blown No. 21 fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. If the fuse is OK, repair open in the wire between the shift lock solenoid connector and the under-dash fuse/relay box. 8. Shift the shift lever into the P position, and press the brake pedal. Do not press the accelerator. 9. Measure the voltage between shift lock solenoid connector terminals while pressing the brake pedal Fig. 4: Measuring Voltage Between Shift Lock Solenoid Connector Terminals Is there battery voltage? YES -Check the shift lock mechanism. If the mechanism is OK, replace the shift lock solenoid (see Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement ). NO -Check for poor or loose PCM connector terminal E2 at the PCM, and check for an open in the wire between PCM connector terminal E2 and shift lock solenoid connector. If the connection and wire is OK, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. KEY INTERLOCK SYSTEM CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING