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2007-2009 Toyota FJ Cruiser Banks Monster Exhaust System Installation Manual

1. Before starting work, familiarize yourself with the installation procedure by reading all of the instructions. 2. The exploded view (Figure 2) provides only general guidance. Refer to each step and section diagram in this manual for proper instruction. 3. Throughout this manual, the left side of the vehicle refers to the driver’s side, and the right side to the passenger’s side. 4. Disconnect the negative (ground) cable from the battery (or batteries, if there are two) before beginning work. 5. Route and tie wires and hoses a minimum of 6″ away from exhaust heat, moving parts and sharp edges. clearance of 8″ or more is recommended where possible. 6. When raising the vehicle, support it on properly weight-rated safety stands, ramps or a commercial hoist. Follow the manufacturer’s safety precautions. Take care to balance the vehicle to prevent it from slipping or falling. When using ramps, be sure the front wheels are centered squarely on the topsides; put the transmission in park; set the hand brake; and place blocks behind the rear wheels. Caution! Do not use floor jacks to support the vehicle while working under it. Do not raise the vehicle onto concrete blocks, masonry or any other item not intended specifically for this use. 7. During installation, keep the work area clean. Do not allow anything to be dropped into intake, exhaust, or lubrication system components while performing the installation, as foreign objects will cause immediate engine damage upon start-up. Tools Required: • 1? 2 ” and 3? 8 ” drive ratchets with standard and metric sockets and 1 ? 2 ” and 3? 8 ” drive extension • Standard and metric combination or open-end wrenches • Standard screwdriver • Clean shop towels or rags • Pry-bar Highly recommended tools and supplies: • Foot-pound torque wrench • Penetrating oil or light lubricant spray General Installation Practices 97083 v.2.0 3 Monster Exhaust SySTEM INSTallaTIoN 1. Disconnect the negative (ground) cable from the battery (if there is more than one battery, disconnect both negative cables). Secure the cable so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the post. 2. Raise the vehicle and support it securely with properly weight-rated safety stands, ramps or a commercial hoist. Take care to balance the vehicle to prevent it from slipping or falling. When using ramps, be sure the wheels are centered squarely on the topsides. Place the transmission in park (automatic), set the parking brake and securely block the wheels that are on the ground. CaUTIoN: Do NoT WoRK UNDER aNy VEHIClE SUPPoRTED oNly By a JaCK. SEVERE INJURy May RESUlT. 3. From under the vehicle remove the factory exhaust starting at the 2-bolt flange in front of the muffler. Remove the two (2) bolts, two (2) washers, and two (2) springs from the flange and retain for re-use. NOTE: Remove the factory gasket from the 2-bolt flange. The exhaust system will be hanging by the exhaust hanger pins. 4. Liberally apply an aerosol lubricant on all the hanger pins. Remove the exhaust system from the vehicle by removing each hanger pin from the rubber grommet. NOTE: Remove hanger pins from the front of the vehicle to the rear. 5. Drop the exhaust system to the floor and move out of the way. You will not be reusing any components from the exhaust system. 6. Install the Banks conical gasket onto the vehicle’s 2-bolt flange. 7. Install the hanger pin on the intermediate pipe into the corresponding rubber grommet. Install the Banks intermediate pipe onto the factory 2-bolt intermediate pipe outlet using the factory hardware. See Figure 1. When tightening the

1996-1998 Civic HX With CVT Shudder, Judder, Surging, Shock, Noise, or Idle Fluctuation Repair Manual

PROBABLE CAUSE The problem may have one or more of these causes: •TCM control unit programming is too sensitive. •The start clutch assembly is worn. •The start clutch control valve is contaminated. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the start clutch assembly, the start clutch control valve, and the TCM. PARTS INFORMATION Start Clutch Kit: P/N 06220-P2M-305, H/C 7073448 Honda ATF-Z1 (seven quarts required): P/N 08200-9001, H/C 6512628 REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS Start Clutch Remover: T/N 07TAE-P4VA120 Start Clutch Installer: T/N 07TAE-P4VA130 WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Operation Number: 219167 Flat Rate Time: 6.0 hours Failed Part: P/N 22020-P4V-325 H/C 5192349 Defect Code: 034 Contention Code: C99 Template ID: 02-003A Skill Level: Repair Technician Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work. REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure the work surface and the CVT are completely clean. Use lint-free towels, and use a dedicated, clean solvent tank for cleaning the CVT parts. If you do not keep everything very clean, the repair may not be successful. 1. Soak the new start clutch assembly in Honda ATF-Z1 for at least 30 minutes. 2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. See page 14-304 of the 1996-00 Civic Service Manual. 3. Cover with clean shop towels all of the openings in the transmission and anything else that might get damaged by water and cleaning chemicals (axle openings, breather, and electrical connectors). Clean all the dirt and grease off of the transmission before you start disassembly

2000 Pontiac Bonneville V6-3.8L VIN K – A/T 4T65E Harsh Shifts/Shudders/Slips Repair Manual

Line Pressure Check Procedure Tools Required Important: Before performing a line pressure check, verify that the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve is receiving the correct electrical signal from the PCM. Caution: Keep the brakes applied at all times in order to prevent unexpected vehicle motion. Personal injury may result it the vehicle moves unexpectedly. J 21867Universal Pressure Gauge Set 1. Install a Scan Tool. 2. Start the engine and set the parking brake. 3. Check for a stored Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). 4. Repair the vehicle, if necessary. 5. Check the fluid level. Refer to the Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure. 6. Check the manual linkage for proper adjustment. 7. Turn the engine OFF. Remove the oil pressure test hole plug and install the J 21867. 8. Put the gear selector in PARK range and set the parking brake. 9. Start the engine and allow the engine to warm up at idle Notice: Total test running time should not be longer than two minutes, or else transmission damage could occur. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices. Parts Information 10. Access the PC solenoid valve control test on the Scan Tool. Zoom Sized for Print 11. Increase the PC solenoid as shown actual current from 0.0 to 1.0 amps in 0.1 amp increments. Allow the pressure to stabilize for five seconds after each pressure change. Read the corresponding line pressure on the J 21867. 12. Refer to the Line Pressure specification table. Compare the data to the table. 13. If pressure readings differ greatly from the table, refer to Incorrect Line Pressure. 14. Remove the J 21867. 15. Apply sealant, P/N 12345382 (in Canada, P/N 10953489), to the oil pressure test hole plug. 16. Install the oil pressure test hole plug. Tighten Tighten the oil pressure test hole plug to 12 N.m (106 lb in).

1993 Ford Crown Victoria V8-281 4.6L SOHC Engine – Lean Driveability Symptoms Manual

1. Look at the BARO PID. Refer to the Barometric Pressure Reference Chart in this article. At sea level, BARO should read about 159 Hz (29.91 in. Hg). As a reference, Denver, Colorado at 1524 meters (5000 ft.) altitude should be about 144 Hz (24.88 in.Hg). Normal learned BARO variability is up to +/- 6 Hz (+/- 2 in. Hg.). If BARO indicates a higher altitude than you are not at (7 or more Hz lower than expected), you may have MAF contamination. If available, Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS) has a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor that can be used as a barometric pressure reference. Use “MAP/BARO” test under “Powertrain,” “Testers and Meters.” Ignore the hookup screen. Connect GP2 to the reference MAP on the following screen. 2. On a fully warmed up engine, look at Long Term Fuel Trim at idle, in Neutral, A/C off, (LONGFT1 and/or LONGFT2 PIDs). If it is more negative than -12%, the fuel system has learned lean corrections which may be due to the MAF sensor over-estimating air flow at idle. Note that both Banks 1 and 2 will exhibit negative corrections for 2-bank system. If only one bank of a 2-bank system has negative corrections, the MAF sensor is probably not contaminated. 3. On a fully warmed up engine, look at MAF voltage at idle, in Neutral, A/C off (MAF V PID). If it’s 30% greater than the nominal MAF V voltage listed in the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Diagnostic Value Reference Charts for your vehicle, or greater than 1.1 volts as a rough guide, the MAF sensor is over-estimating air flow at idle. 4. If at least tow of the previous three steps are true, proceed to disconnect the MAF sensor connector. This puts the vehicle into Failure Mode and Effects Management (FMEM). In FMEM mode, air flow is inferred by using rpm and throttle position instead of reading the MAF sensor. (In addition, the BARO value is reset to a base/unlearned value.) If the lean driveability symptoms go away, the MAF sensor is probably contaminated and should be replaced. If the lean driveability symptoms do not go away, go to the PC/ED Service Manual for the appropriate diagnostics.


CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE COMMON REPAIR Top RollerComes Rail bent or widened condition Replace the upper slide door rail. Top Roller Comes Out of Rail Guide The stopper at the end of the rail is loose or missing. Replace the stopper as needed. Door Does Not Lock in Full Open Position Full open stop latch assembly is damaged. Replace the full open stop latch assembly. Left Door Opens Half Way Fuel door half stopper cable damaged. Adjust the cable. Replace the cable, if damaged. Difficltto Open Dirty weatherstrip. Clean all soda spills or other sticky substances that may have accumulated on weatherstrip and door. Difficult to Open Manually Inside handle release button damaged. Replace inside handle release button assembly according to TSB No. BO027-00, “Sliding Door Handle Push Button Operation”. Door out of adjustment. Adjust levelness of the door, according to Repair Manual. Dragging Open/Close Mll Running board rubs against the bottom of the sliding door. Adjust running board to proper position and assure clearance from the door. Manually Roller rails have bent or warp condition. Dirt or debris in the rails and rollers. Clean rails and rollers. Replace damaged parts. CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE COMMON REPAIR Creak Noise Junction block, damaged components, and other issues Refer to TSB No. BO003-99, “Sliding Door Creak Noise Reduction.” Refer to the “Common Sources of Creak Noise” section of this bulletin for additional information for sources of creak noise. Rattle or Clicking (NOT Creak Noise) Door moving when driving over bumps Rollers loose or damaged Adjust lower roller base mounting to bring door closer to body (Refer to TIS, applicable model year Sienna Repair Manual, Vehicle Exterior – Door/Hatch – “Slide Door: Adjustment”). Adjust strikers to bring door closer to the body. Inspect the latch assembly and replace, if damaged. Replace damaged rollers. Noise During Open/Close Rollers or rails are damaged and/or dirty. Inspect, clean, and/or replace as needed