1) Block rear wheels, place front end of truck on jack stands supported on the frame and remove the front wheels. 2) Remove the original upper ball joint hardware. 3) Knock the studs out of the ball joint with a small hammer. This is done most easily if the joint is pressed against the arm supported with a floor jack. 4) Remove the factory shock. 5) Trim the lip. An angle grinder with a cut-off wheel or a small reciprocating saw works well. Trim enough to allow installation of the spacer. 6) Put the spacer in place, NOTCH FACING DOWNWARD and, using a floor jack to control arm height, align the ball joint and install the hardware. The notch acts as a weep hole to let any water that gets in from above drain out to prevent the ball joint from rusting out. 7) Tighten ball joint hardware using the provided nylon lock nuts. 8) Install new extended length shock. 9) Repeat for other side. 10) Re-install the wheels. 11) If the end of the upper control arm is too close to the tire at this point, there are a few options: • You can replace your wheels with a higher off-set. • You can add a 1/4″ wheel spacer to move the wheel/tire away from the suspension. 12) Put the vehicle back on the ground. 13) For low profile bump stops only: • Shim them approx. 1/2″ with some washers or use stock bump stops. • Failure to do so could result in damage to CV joints, shocks, or other components 14) Even with stock bump stops, you may experience some CV axle binding. • To check, let the suspension hang’ at full droop. • Rotate each CV axle shaft by hand and check for any binding at the CV joints. • If felt, several options to fix it are available: o Add some shims for the low profile bump stops. o Or install a front differential drop kit to lower the differential and thus lessen the CV joint angles.