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2005-2008 TOYOTA TACOMA 4 X 4 AND PRE RUNNER 3″ SUSPENSION LIFT KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Tacoma Installation Instructions 09/09/08 INST-426A.DOC Page 2 of 7 FRONT OF TACOMA 1. Park vehicle on level concrete surface. 2. Center and lock the steering wheel. 3. Block the rear wheels of the vehicle to prevent vehicle from moving in either direction. 4. Jack up the vehicle from the lift point in Figure A. 5. Support the vehicle with jack stands from the points in Figure A. 6. Remove the front wheels. 7. Remove sway bar end links from spindle using 17mm socket (both sides). See Figure B. 8. Remove front skid plate using 12mm socket. 9. Remove sway bar from frame using 14mm socket. See Figure C. 10. Using 19mm socket, remove lower bolt and nut from the bottom of the strut (both sides). 11. Remove cotter key and 19mm nut from outer tie rod end, rack & pinion utilizing a tie rod end puller (or pickle fork). 12. Remove the three nuts (14mm) from the top of the strut. See Figure D. 13. Remove the struts from the vehicle, making sure that they are marked driver and passenger side respectively for reinstallation. NOTE: AT THIS TIME, IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A SUITABLE SPRING COMPRESSOR, IT IS HIGHLY ADVISED TO EITHER TAKE THE STRUT TO A QUALIFIED SERVICE CENTER OR PURCHASE THE REVTEK SC-1 SPRING COMPRESSOR. 14. Compress strut assembly and remove the nut (17mm) on the top of the strut shaft. 15. Release the compressor. 16. Remove the spring top plate from the strut. 17. Remove and discard the rubber spacer Tacoma Installation Instructions 09/09/08 INST-426A.DOC Page 3 of 7 FRONT OF TACOMA (continued) 18. Remove (hammer) the studs from the spring top plate. See Figure “F.” 19. Install (hammer) the LONGER STUDS (10MM) (provided) in the spring top plate. See Figure “G.” 20. Install the PRELOAD SPACER between the spring and the spring top plate with the small diameter facing toward the spring and the Revtek Industries logo facing outward. See Figure H. 21. Compress the strut assembly, making sure you center the strut shaft through the spring top plate hole and that the STUDS line up with the PRELOAD SPACER reliefs. Replace nut on the top of the strut shaft and torque to spec. (Torque specs can be found on page 1.) 22. Install the TOP OUT EXTENDER over the STUDS (Figure H). 23. Reinstall the strut by reversing the removal procedure; torque to spec. (Torque specs on page 1.) 24. When properly installed, Revtek Industries logo will be centered between preload spacer reliefs. 25. Reinstall tie rod ends, torque to spec. 26. Reinstall sway bar to frame. 27. Reinstall sway bar end links into spindles. Torque to spec

1995-2004 TOYOTA TACOMA 4 X 4 AND PRERUNNER 3″ SUSPENSION LIFT KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Tacoma 4WD & PreRunner Installation Instructions Page 3 of 7 09/09/08 INST-425F.DOC FRONT OF VEHICLE 1. Park vehicle on level concrete surface. 2. Center and lock the steering wheel. 3. Block the rear wheels of the vehicle to prevent vehicle from moving in either direction. 4. Jack up the vehicle from the lift point in Figure “A.” 5. Support the vehicle with jack stands from the points in Figure “A.” 6. Remove the front wheels. 7. Remove the nut (14mm) and the hardware from the anti-sway bar. See Figure “B.” 8. Remove the nut (19mm) and bolt (14mm) from the bottom of the strut. See Figure “C.” 9. Remove the three nuts (14mm) from the top of the strut. See Figure “D.” 10. Remove the strut from the vehicle. NOTE: AT THIS TIME, IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A SUITABLE SPRING COMPRESSOR, IT IS HIGHLY ADVISED TO EITHER TAKE THE STRUT TO A QUALIFIED SERVICE CENTER OR PURCHASE THE REVTEK SC-1 SPRING COMPRESSOR. 11. Compress strut assembly and remove the nut (17mm) on the top of the strut shaft in Figure “E.” 12. Release the compressor. 13. Remove the spring top plate from the strut. 14. Remove and discard the rubber spacer. 15. Remove (hammer) the studs from the spring top plate. See Figure “F.” 16. Install (hammer) the LONGER STUDS (10MM) (provided) in the spring top plate. See Figure “G.” 17. Install the PRELOAD SPACER between the spring and the spring top plate with the small diameter facing toward the spring. See Figure “H.” 18. Compress the strut assembly, making sure you center the strut shaft through the spring top plate hole and that the STUDS line up with the PRELOAD SPACER reliefs. Replace nut on the top of the strut shaft and torque to spec. (Figure “E”). (Torque specs can be found on page 1.) 19. Install the TOP OUT EXTENDER over the STUDS (Figure “H”). 20. Reinstall the strut by reversing the removal procedure; torque to spec. (Torque specs on page 1.) 21. When properly installed, PRELOAD SPACER relief and Revtek Industries logo should face outward. (Figure R) 22. Reinstall hardware and nut on anti-sway bar; torque to spec. 23. Replace the wheels; torque to spec.

1984-2002 Pontiac Camaro / Firebird ADJUSTABLE TORQUE ARM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Inspect the motor mounts and the transmission mount. Worn, weak or broken mounts will cause the torque arm to not function properly and can cause damage to your vehicle. Stock OE transmission mounts in Camaros and Firebirds are very weak and known to fail. If you have a broken or weak transmission mount, it will cause the torque arm to actually lift the tail end of the trans. up. This could cause severe wheel hop, driveline misalignment and possible damage to the transmission, drive shaft, u-joints, rear axle, torque arm, and/or floor pan of vehicle. We highly recommend using a good quality polyurethane transmission mount like Energy Suspension #33- 1108. Using the Energy Suspension transmission mount is good insurance that your transmission stay solid and the torque arm will work to its full potential. 2. Inspect the rear suspension bushings. We strongly recommend using either Edelbrock (#5274) lower trailing arms with a spherical ball on one end and polyurethane bushings on the other, Edelbrock (#5204) trailing arms with polyurethane bushings on both ends, or other high quality trailing arms that use high quality polyurethane bushings. We also recommend the use of an Edelbrock or other high quality panhard rod to replace the stock OE piece that uses sponge rubber bushings. The lower trailing arms and panhard rod secure the rear axle under the car. Upgrading to stronger high quality tubular trailing arms and panhard rod with polyurethane bushings will increase the overall strength, eliminate the sponge feel of rubber bushings and further increase the function potential of the torque arm. Worn out trailing arm or panhard rod bushings can contribute to or cause torque arm or other suspension component failures. Remember each suspension component

1999 Honda Civic EX TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

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TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m) A/C Compressor Bracket-To-Engine Bolts 33 (45) A/C Compressor-To-Bracket Bolts 18 (24) A/C Idler Pulley Bracket Bolts 8-mm 18 (24) A/C Idler Pulley Center Nut 33 (45) Battery Tray 18 (24) Camshaft Holder Bolts DOHC 8-mm Bolts 20 (27) SOHC 8-mm Bolts 15 (20) Camshaft Pulley Bolt DOHC 41 (56) SOHC 27 (37) Catalytic Converter Flange Nuts 25 (34) Clutch Slave Cylinder Line/Hose Bracket 8-mm Bolts 18 (24) Clutch Slave Cylinder Mounting 8-mm Bolts 18 (24) Connecting Rod Bearing Cap Nuts DOHC 30 (40) SOHC 23 (31) Crankshaft Pulley Bolt DOHC 130 (177) SOHC (1) Cylinder Head Bolts DOHC First Step (Bolts 1-10) 22 (29) Second Step 61 (83) SOHC First Step (Bolts 1-10) 15 (20) Second Step (Bolts 1-10) 36 (49) Thrid Step (Bolts 1-10) 49 (67) Forth Step (Bolts 1 & 2) 49 (67) Distributor Mount Bolt 18 (24) Drive Plate Bolts (A/T Or CVT) 54 (74) EGR Valve Nuts 15 (20) Engine Coolant Drain Plug 58 (79) Engine Mounts (2) Transaxle Mount 10-mm Bolts 12-mm Bolts/Nuts 47 (64) 12-mm Through-Bolt 54 (74) Side Engine Mount 10-mm Nuts/Bolts 40 (54) Engine Upper Mount Bracket 74 (54) Rear Mount Bracket 12-mm Bolts 43 (59) 14-mm Bolts 61 (83) Left Front Mount 10-mm Bolts 33 (44) 12-mm Bolts 43 (59) Right Front Mount 10-mm Bolts 33 (44) 12-mm Bolts 47 (64) Engine Oil Drain Plug 33 (45) Engine Front & Rear Stiffeners 8-mm Bolts 18 (24) 10-mm Bolts 33 (44) 12-mm Bolts 42 (57) Exhaust Manifold Bracket Bolt 8-mm 18 (24) 10-mm 33 (45) Exhaust Manifold Cover 8-mm Bolts 18 (24) Exhaust Manifold-To-Cylinder Head Nuts (3) 23 (31) Exhaust Pipe Bracket 8-mm Nuts (3) 12 (16) Exhaust Pipe Flange 8-mm Bolts (3) 16 (22) Exhaust Pipe-To-Manifold/TWC (3) D16Y5 & D16Y7 Engines 25 (33) D16Y8 & B16A2 Engines 40 (54) Flywheel Bolts (M/T) 87 (118) Fuel Filter Banjo Bolt 25 (34) Generator Adjustment Lock Bolt 18 (24) Generator Bracket-To-Engine Bolts 33 (45) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) 33 (45) Inspection Hole Sealing Bolt (VTEC) 15 (20) Intake Air Control (IAC) Valve Bolts D16Y5 Engine 16 (22) D16Y8 Engine 18 (24) Idler Pulley Bracket Bolt DOHC

How To Build a High Performance Cummins Diesel

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CEO/ Diesel Injection of Pittsburgh Keep in mind while reading this document that it is a gathering of all the articles Bruce has written over the last ten years. There may be some old prices discussed so, to get the latest pricing, check the main page. If you have any questions feel free to call us at 724-274-4080 and we can discuss your horsepower needs. Please have your CPL#. If you are looking for upgrades for your Electronic Celect/Celect Plus Cummins engine visit our Pittsburgh Power site at Pittsburghpower.com. HOW TO BUILD A HIGH-PERFORMANCE CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE This is a very controversial subject and 99% of the mechanics who build diesel engines will disagree with what we have to say and will probably refuse to build the engine for you. For the owner-operator who loves horsepower do not give up when you speak to the negative mechanic. There are a few good shops throughout the states that will build the ultimate performance engine. Or you can build it yourself as long as you have mechanical knowledge and tools. BUILDING THE ENGINE: In order to have the engine live with high horsepower and run efficiently you must have the right combination of compression ratio, fuel, air and timing. Please do not try to get extreme power simply by increasing the fuel pressure on a stock engine. You will obtain some horsepower, however your compression ratio, air and timing will be wrong. The best time to obtain horsepower is during a rebuild. Since you are going to buy new parts anyway you might as well buy the right combination that produces horsepower and generally the price of the high performance parts is the same as the stock parts. NOW TO THE NUTS AND BOLTS : The compression ratio of the pistons and the timing must go together. High compression pistons belong only in gasoline engines that are naturally aspirated. Turbocharged diesel engines must have low compression pistons in order to produce high horsepower. The lower the compression ratio the less wear on rod bearings and the lower the internal pressure will be when the injector fires. High internal pressure is very detrimental to the life of a piston. When you see a piston with a hole burned through, it’s not the fault of the injector it is a result of internal pressure. To control the pressure we lower the compression ratio and retard the timing. If you compare the compression ratio and timing of an NTC 290 versus an NTC 400 you will see the difference. Where do you think we have to be on the timing to produce 700 horsepower from an NTC?