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1984 Mercedes Benz 190E Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Engine Testing And Adjustment Manual

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Filed Under (Mercedes-benz Manuals) by admin on 13-04-2012

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Note: Test and adjust lambda control with a lambda control tester. The lambda control and the idle speed emissions level must not be tested when the engine is very hot, e.g. immediately after driving sharply or after measuring engine output on the dynamometer. Testing, adjusting 1 Complete measurement sheet. 2 Switch off air conditioning or automatic climate control. Move selector lever into position “P”. 3 Read out DTC memory. Note: Not available on model year 1984-1986. 4 Connect testers: oil remote thermometer (018)124 589 07 21 00 lambda control tester (012) twin socket (031) trigger clamp (011) exhaust probe (005)126 589 11 63 00 CO measuring instrument (006) engine tester with oscilloscope (030) multimeter (003) test cable (033)102 589 04 63 00. 5 Position extraction device (014) at exhaust tail pipe. 6 Check engine coolant level, adjust to correct level. 7 Check engine oil level, pay attention to condition of oil (visual inspection). 8 Take off air cleaner. 9 Check ease of movement and condition of throttle control linkage and throttle valve. Grease all bearing points and ball sockets. 10 Check fulcrum lever, adjust. Check whether the roller (15) in the fulcrum lever (13) is resting free of tension against end stop. Adjust fulcrum lever (13) with the connecting rod (2), if necessary, so that the roller (15) is resting free of tension against end stop. 11 Idle stop. Check whether the throttle valve is resting against idle stop. Disconnect connecting rod (2) for this step. Adjust throttle control. Engines with cruise control only. Check whether the actuator is resting against idle stop of cruise control by pressing the lever of the actuator clockwise against idle stop at cruise control. When attaching the connecting rod (21), ensure that the lever of the actuator is lifted approx. 1 mm off the idle stop at the cruise control. Adjust tie rod, if necessary. Adjust throttle control. 12 Check wide open throttle stop from the accelerator pedal , adjust. 13 Voltages Test (battery and ignition coil ): No-load voltage Connect voltmeter to the battery, paying attention to the polarity, and take reading of voltage. Specification: 12.2 volts . Ignition coil Switch on ignition with engine not running. Test the voltage terminal 15 to ground at contact 5 of diagnostic connector. Specification: battery voltage Test difference in voltage between terminal 15 and terminal 1 at contacts 5 and 4 of diagnostic connector. Specification: 0 volts If the specified values are not reached, test

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2009 Ford Escape 3.0L INTERMITTENT CYLINDER HEAD CAMSHAFT KNOCK/ THUMP NOISE SERVICE PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 25-01-2012

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3.0L INTERMITTENT CYLINDER HEAD CAMSHAFT KNOCK/THUMP NOISE This article supersedes TSB 09-11-6 to update the b. Isolate noise to LH – Listen to the cylinders Service Procedure and Part List. 4 and 6 valve cover fasteners (number 6 is by the coolant pump). There will be a ISSUE significant difference in transmitted noise Some 2009 Escape and Mariner vehicles, equipped between the cylinder 4 and 6 fasteners with 3.0L engine, may exhibit an intermittent when noise is present. Noise from LH – go knocking or thumping type noise from the cylinder to Step 4. head. After engine temperature reaches 210-220 °F NOTE (99-104 °C), the noise is typically heard from the THE RH AND LH NOISES HAVE DIFFERENT rear of the engine as the vehicle comes to a stop. CAUSES. FOLLOW ALL STEPS CAREFULLY FOR An example would be coming to a stop at the end PROPER DIAGNOSIS AND REPAIR. of a highway exit ramp. Noise will continue 45-60 seconds and then diminish. Noise will occur again 3. Replace the RH cylinder head per Workshop once engine reaches 210-220 °F (99-104 °C) and Manual (WSM), Section 303-01B. vehicle comes to another stop. a. Verify repair by repeating Step 2. If noise is ACTION still present then proceed with normal Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the engine NVH diagnostics per WSM, Section condition. 100-04. SERVICE PROCEDURE 4. Remove LH valve cover. Refer to WSM, Section 303-01. 1. Is noise a 45-60 second knock/thump from a hot engine as the vehicle comes to a stop? a. Rotate the engine clockwise until cylinder number 6 exhaust cam lobes are pointing a. Yes – Go to Step 2. up and valves are fully closed. Exhaust camshaft needs to be left in this position for b. No – Stop as this procedure does not apply. all bearing caps in Step 4b. (Figure 1) Proceed with normal Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 100-04 diagnostics. 2. Using Chassis Ears, isolate the noise to Right Hand (RH) (Bank 1) or Left Hand (LH) (Bank 2) cylinder head. Noise is typically heard as 45-60 second knock/thump as the vehicle comes to a stop after engine reaches 210-220 °F (99-104 °C). a. Isolate noise to RH – Listen to the cylinder head by the variable camshaft timing (VCT) solenoid connectors. There will also be a vibration felt at the VCT solenoid connector when noise is present. Noise from RH – go to Step 3.

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How To Build a High Performance Cummins Diesel

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 08-01-2012

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CEO/ Diesel Injection of Pittsburgh Keep in mind while reading this document that it is a gathering of all the articles Bruce has written over the last ten years. There may be some old prices discussed so, to get the latest pricing, check the main page. If you have any questions feel free to call us at 724-274-4080 and we can discuss your horsepower needs. Please have your CPL#. If you are looking for upgrades for your Electronic Celect/Celect Plus Cummins engine visit our Pittsburgh Power site at Pittsburghpower.com. HOW TO BUILD A HIGH-PERFORMANCE CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE This is a very controversial subject and 99% of the mechanics who build diesel engines will disagree with what we have to say and will probably refuse to build the engine for you. For the owner-operator who loves horsepower do not give up when you speak to the negative mechanic. There are a few good shops throughout the states that will build the ultimate performance engine. Or you can build it yourself as long as you have mechanical knowledge and tools. BUILDING THE ENGINE: In order to have the engine live with high horsepower and run efficiently you must have the right combination of compression ratio, fuel, air and timing. Please do not try to get extreme power simply by increasing the fuel pressure on a stock engine. You will obtain some horsepower, however your compression ratio, air and timing will be wrong. The best time to obtain horsepower is during a rebuild. Since you are going to buy new parts anyway you might as well buy the right combination that produces horsepower and generally the price of the high performance parts is the same as the stock parts. NOW TO THE NUTS AND BOLTS : The compression ratio of the pistons and the timing must go together. High compression pistons belong only in gasoline engines that are naturally aspirated. Turbocharged diesel engines must have low compression pistons in order to produce high horsepower. The lower the compression ratio the less wear on rod bearings and the lower the internal pressure will be when the injector fires. High internal pressure is very detrimental to the life of a piston. When you see a piston with a hole burned through, it’s not the fault of the injector it is a result of internal pressure. To control the pressure we lower the compression ratio and retard the timing. If you compare the compression ratio and timing of an NTC 290 versus an NTC 400 you will see the difference. Where do you think we have to be on the timing to produce 700 horsepower from an NTC?

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1997 Jeep Cherokee 2WD Serpentine Belt INSPECTION ADJUSTMENT REMOVAL And INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Jeep Manuals) by admin on 05-01-2012

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INSPECTION When inspecting serpentine drive belts, small cracks that run across the ribbed surface of the belt from rib to rib are considered normal. If the the cracks are running along the rib (rather across), this is not normal and the belt(s) must be replaced. ADJUSTMENT It is not necessary to adjust belt tension on the 5.2L or 5.9L engines and on the 2.5L and 4.0L engines (without power steering). These engines are equipped with an automatic tensioner. The tensioner maintains correct tension at all times. 2.5L and 4.0L Engines With Power Steering See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 If the vehicle is not equipped with power steering, it will be equipped with an idler pulley. If equipped with an idler pulley, refer to and follow the 5.2L/5.9L belt removal and installation procedure. Loosen the pump upper pivot bolt, lower locknut and pump adjusting bolt using a ratchet and 13mm socket or a 13mm box wrench. 1. Use a belt tension gauge placed in the middle of the belt being tested. Proper tension for a new belt is 180-200 lbs. (800-900 N) and 140-160 lbs. (623-712 N) for a used belt. 2. Tighten the pump adjusting bolt to achieve proper tension and recheck the belt tension. 3. Fig. Fig. 1: Loosen the pivot bolt (1), then the locking bolt (2) to loosen the power steering pump from behind Fig. Fig. 2: Use a ratchet and 13mm size socket to rotate the power steering pump Fig. Fig. 3: Adjustment points on the 2.5L engines without power steering (rear view) Fig. Fig. 4: Adjustment points on the 2.5L engine (front view) Removal & Installation 2.5L and 4.0L Engines With Power Steering See Figures 5, 6 and 7 Fig. Fig. 5: Proper belt routing diagram can usually be found on a sticker located in the engine compartment Fig. Fig. 6: Common 4.0L engine serpentine belt routing Fig. Fig. 7: Common 2.5L engine serpentine belt routing Loosen the rear power steering pump mounting bolts using a ratchet and 13mm socket or a 13mm box wrench. 1. Loosen the pump upper pivot bolt, lower locknut and the pump adjusting bolt using a ratchet and 13mm socket or a 13mm box wrench. 2. Remove the belt. 3. To install: Install the belt. 4. Tighten the pump adjusting bolt to achieve proper tension. 5. Install the pump rear mounting bolts, pivot bolt and locknut. Tighten the bolts to 20. ft. lbs. (27 Nm). 6. Check the belt for proper tension. If tension is incorrect, refer to the adjustment procedure in this section. 7. 5.2L and 5.9L Engines See Figures 8, 9 and 10

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2000 Cadillac DeVille Brake Switch Circuit Low Input

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Filed Under (Cadillac Manuals) by admin on 19-06-2011

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Record the DTC Failure Records. 4. Clear the DTC. 5. Select TCC Brake Switch on the scan tool. 6. Disconnect the TCC brake switch connector. 7. Using the J 35616 connector test adapter kit, install a fused jumper wire between terminals A and B of the TCC brake switch connector. Did the TCC brake switch status change from Open to Closed? — Go to Step 5 Go to Step 3 3 1. Remove the IGN 1 fuse. 2. Inspect the fuse for an open. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems. Is the fuse open? — Go to Step 4 Go to Step 6 4 Important: The condition that affects this circuit may exist in other connecting branches of the circuit. Refer to Power Distribution Schematics in Wiring Systems for complete circuit distribution. Test the power feed circuit (CKT 1039) of the TCC brake switch for a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems. Did you find and correct the condition? — Go to Step 9 — 5 1. Inspect the TCC brake switch for proper adjustment. 2. Adjust the TCC brake switch as necessary. Refer to Stop Lamp Switch Adjustment in Hydraulic Brakes. Did the TCC brake switch require adjustment? — Go to Step 9 Go to Step 7 6 1. Test the power feed circuit (CKT 1039) of the TCC brake switch for an open. 2. Test the input circuit (CKT 420) of the TCC brake switch for an open. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems. Did you find and correct a condition? — Go to Step 9 Go to Step 8 7 Replace the TCC brake switch. Refer to Stop Lamp Switch Replacement in Hydraulic

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2002 Chevrolet Impala Intake Manifold Replacement (Lower) Removal And Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Chevrolet Manuals) by admin on 30-04-2012

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Intake Manifold Replacement (Lower) Notes Intake Manifold Replacement – Lower Removal Procedure 1. Disconnect the negative bakery. 2. Remove the upper intake manifold. 3. Remove the left valve rocker arm cover. 4. Remove the right valve rocker arm cover. 5. Disconnect the Engine Coolant Temperature ( ECT ) sensor electrical connector. 6. Disconnect and remove the fuel injector and the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor wiring harnesses. 7. Remove the fuel pipe clip bolt. 8. Remove the fuel pipe clip. 9. Remove the fuel feed pipe from the fuel injector rail. 10. Remove the fuel return pipe from the fuel injector rail. 11. Remove the fuel injector rail. 12. Remove the power steering pump from the front engine cover and reposition. 13. Remove the heater inlet pipe with heater hose from the lower intake manifold and reposition. 14. Remove the radiator inlet hose from the engine. 16. Remove the lower intake manifold bolts. 17. Remove the lower intake manifold. 18. Remove the valve rocker arms and pushrods. 19. Remove the lower intake manifold gaskets and seals. 20. Clean the lower intake manifold gasket mating surfaces. 21. Remove and clean all the RTV sealant from the lower intake manifold and the engine block (1).

1998 – 2003 Toyota Sienna SLIDING DOOR DIAGNOSTIC TIPS/ REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 08-07-2012

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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE COMMON REPAIR Top RollerComes Rail bent or widened condition Replace the upper slide door rail. Top Roller Comes Out of Rail Guide The stopper at the end of the rail is loose or missing. Replace the stopper as needed. Door Does Not Lock in Full Open Position Full open stop latch assembly is damaged. Replace the full open stop latch assembly. Left Door Opens Half Way Fuel door half stopper cable damaged. Adjust the cable. Replace the cable, if damaged. Difficltto Open Dirty weatherstrip. Clean all soda spills or other sticky substances that may have accumulated on weatherstrip and door. Difficult to Open Manually Inside handle release button damaged. Replace inside handle release button assembly according to TSB No. BO027-00, “Sliding Door Handle Push Button Operation”. Door out of adjustment. Adjust levelness of the door, according to Repair Manual. Dragging Open/Close Mll Running board rubs against the bottom of the sliding door. Adjust running board to proper position and assure clearance from the door. Manually Roller rails have bent or warp condition. Dirt or debris in the rails and rollers. Clean rails and rollers. Replace damaged parts. CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE COMMON REPAIR Creak Noise Junction block, damaged components, and other issues Refer to TSB No. BO003-99, “Sliding Door Creak Noise Reduction.” Refer to the “Common Sources of Creak Noise” section of this bulletin for additional information for sources of creak noise. Rattle or Clicking (NOT Creak Noise) Door moving when driving over bumps Rollers loose or damaged Adjust lower roller base mounting to bring door closer to body (Refer to TIS, applicable model year Sienna Repair Manual, Vehicle Exterior – Door/Hatch – “Slide Door: Adjustment”). Adjust strikers to bring door closer to the body. Inspect the latch assembly and replace, if damaged. Replace damaged rollers. Noise During Open/Close Rollers or rails are damaged and/or dirty. Inspect, clean, and/or replace as needed

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2007 TOYOTA TUNDRA SuperSprings Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 27-02-2012

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Front / Rear The SSA4 springs do NOT have a specific left or right; however, for this application the square shackle on one end of the SuperSprings install to the rear. Please check the SuperSprings website ( www.supersprings.com ) for color images of this and other installations. Step 1 : Positioning the vehicle: Vehicle must be on level solid surface. Ensure emergency brake is ON, Ignition is OFF. Place blocks in front and rear of the front tires to prevent the vehicle moving. With the vehicle still on the ground ( one side at a time ), loosen axle u-bolts to allow removal of the factory bump-stop. After removal retighten the u-bolts to factory specifications. Important : After 500 miles of driving, ensure u-bolt torque . Step 2: Jacking up vehicle: Place the jack on chassis/frame member – not the axle or differential . Raise one or both sides of vehicle so that rear wheel(s) is slightly off the ground. Place jack stands under the frame. You may remove the wheel for easier installation access but this is optional. Step 3: Place the PSP-4 block so it straddles the top of the spring pack where the factory bump-stop was removed. Insert one of the two provided hold down cross plates into place through the steel channel atop the PSP-4. (Fig. A) Slip SuperSpring over the wheel or slide in from behind with the square shackle to the rear. Then position it on PSP-4 block. Observe & adjust position of brake cables that might interfere with the SuperSprings blades & or shackles Step 4: Attach rear SQUARE shackle and position it as seen in: (Fig. 1) Position the rear shackle ensuring you have you optimum clearance in both the horizontal (front to back) and the vertical. SuperSprings do NOT have to be centered, position approximately as seen in above images. Reinstall the shackle bolt, polypropylene (black) roller and steel roller. Tighten nut till shackles are snug against steel roller; avoid over tightening lock nuts. Note: The SuperSprings eye or top shackle bolt torque is factory set ~ Do Not tighten further. Step 5: Attach front shackle: (Fig. 2) Use C-Clamp and pull down spring blade to allow attachment of front shackle. Some installations will not require use of clamp. Using the upper shackle bolt hole as shown in Fig. 2, reinstall shackle bolt, rollers, nut & tighten as in step 4 above. Step 6: With the spring blade installed, position bump-stop and riser block centered above PSP-4 as seen in Fig. 3. Insert remaining hold-down cross plate through bottom channel of new bump-stop. Secure assembly using the provided ½” bolts, washers and nuts. Tighten firmly ensuring block components are secured into place

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1995 Mazda MX-6 FRONT DISC BRAKE PADS REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Mazda Manuals) by admin on 16-02-2012

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION FRONT DISC BRAKE PADS Removal & Installation 1. Raise and support front of vehicle. Remove front wheel assemblies. Remove lower lock pin/guide bolt. See Fig. 2 . Pivot caliper upward and support using rope. 2. Remove pads, shims, guide plates or pad guides and “V” springs (if equipped). Replace pad if lining thickness is less than specified. See MINIMUM PAD LINING SPECIFICATIONS (FRONT) table. 3. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use Disc Brake Expander (49-0221-600C) and an old pad to push piston fully inward to install disc pads. Fig. 2: Exploded View Of Front Brake Disc Assembly Courtesy of MAZDA MOTORS CORP. MINIMUM PAD LINING SPECIFICATIONS (FRONT) Application Thickness In. (mm) MX-6, 626 FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER Removal & Installation Raise and support front of vehicle. Remove front wheel assemblies and disconnect brake hose. Plug all openings. Remove front disc brake pads. See FRONT DISC BRAKE PADS . Remove remaining mounting bolt(s). Remove caliper from vehicle. To install, reverse removal procedure. Bleed air from system. FRONT BRAKE ROTOR Removal & Installation 1. Raise and support front of vehicle. Remove front wheel assemblies. Remove front disc brake caliper with brake hose connected. See FRONT DISC BRAKE CALIPER . Wire caliper aside. Remove rotor-to-hub screws (if equipped). Remove rotor. 2. Machine rotor if lateral runout exceeds specification. Replace rotor if measured thickness is less than specified minimum thickness. See DISC BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS table. To install, reverse removal procedure. REAR DISC BRAKE PADS Removal & Installation 1. Raise and support rear of vehicle. Remove rear wheel assemblies. Release parking brake and disconnect parking brake cable from caliper. Remove manual adjustment gear concealment plug from caliper. See Fig. 3 . Insert an appropriate size Allen wrench through hole and turn manual adjustment gear counterclockwise to retract caliper piston. 2. Remove upper guide bolt from caliper. Rotate caliper downward and support using wire. Remove “M” springs. Remove pads, shims and guide plates. Replace pad if lining thickness is less than .04″ (1.0 mm). 3. To install, reverse removal procedure. Turn manual adjustment gear clockwise until brake pads slightly touch rotor. Turn manual adjustment gear back 1/3 turn.

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TJ/ XJ/ ZJ Front Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 20-12-2011

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1. Remove track bar bolt on passenger side of vehicle on the axle. Retain hardware for later use. See Picture 1 Picture 1 Picture 2 2. Block rear tires and raise the front of the vehicle, support by the frame using jack stands. 3. Remove front wheels and tires, support front axle with a floor jack. See Picture 2 4. Disconnect lower shock mounts. 5. Disconnect sway bar end links. Be careful not to break the links! Use penetrating oil on rusty bolts. Remove bottom hardware if it is easier. Newer model Wranglers and Grand Cherokees require the side of the sway bar to be struck with a hammer to free the end links. See Pictures 3 & 4. Picture 3 Picture 4 6. Remove spring clamps if vehicle is equipped with them 7. Carefully lower the jack supporting the axle. Be careful not to overextend the brake lines and ABS lines on newer models. 8. Remove coil springs and bump stops on Wranglers and Grand Cherokees. On Cherokees the bump stop and cup are one piece, and can be removed by turning the cup, using channel lock pliers. Other models the shaft and the bump stop are small enough to simply slide the spacer over. See Pictures 5 & 6. Picture 5 Picture 6 9. Remove the Bump stop cup. See Picture 7 10. Install front lift spacers. A rubber mallet can be used to ease installation. If installing 2″ spacer leave in factory isolator, if installing 3″ spacer remove the factory isolator. See Picture 8 Picture 7 Picture 8 11. Reinstall bump stop cups and rubber bump stops. See Picture 9 Picture 9 Picture 10 12. Reinstall coil springs in the same location as removed, and make sure springs are in the lower saddles properly. (A spring compressor can ease this process but is not required.) See Picture 10 13. Raise the axle and reconnect the sway bar end links and lower shock mounts. 14. Install wheels and tires and lower vehicle onto the ground. 15. Reconnect the track bar. This can be tricky and requires two people. Have a friend turn the steering wheel slowly, while you align the axle holes with the track bar holes and tighten. 16. Get your vehicle aligned and enjoy your Fat Bob’s Garage lift!

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