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denso alternator full field test

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1989 Toyota 4Runner ALTERNATOR AND REGULATOR – NIPPONDENSO

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ON-VEHICLE TESTING NO LOAD TEST 1) Disconnect alternator terminal “B” wire. Using an ammeter and voltmeter, connect negative ammeter lead to disconnected alternator terminal “B” wire and positive lead to alternator terminal “B”. Connect voltmeter positive lead to alternator terminal “B” and negative lead to ground. See Fig. 1. Fig. 1: Charging Circuit Testing Courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. 2) Start engine and increase engine speed to 2000 RPM. Voltmeter and ammeter should read according to specification. See ALTERNATOR OUTPUT SPECIFICATIONS table. 3) If voltage is more than specified, replace IC regulator. If voltage is less than specified, ground “F” (full field) terminal. See Fig. 2, 3 or 4. 4) If voltage now climbs above specified range, replace IC regulator. If voltage remains below specified range, repair or replace alternator. ALTERNATOR OUTPUT SPECIFICATIONS @ 2000 RPM pplication Amps (1) Volts Cressida …………………. 10 ………………… 14.0-15.0 Land Cruiser ……………… 10 ………………… 13.8-14.4 All Others ……………….. 10 ………………… 13.9-15.1 (1) – With temperature at 77F (25C). Fig. 2: Alt Full Field Output Test (Camry, Celica, Corolla 4A-GE, Cressida, MR2, Supra) Courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. Fig. 3: Alt Full Field Output Test (Corolla 4A-F 4A-FE, Land Cruiser, Pickup, 4Runner)

2006 Dodge Truck RAM 2500 DENSO A/C COMPRESSOR Service and Repair Manual

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DENSO A/C COMPRESSOR REMOVAL NOTE: * The compressor clutch assembly can be serviced with the refrigerant system fully-charged. * Typical A/C compressor shown in illustrations. 1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the accessory drive belt. 3. Disconnect the engine wire harness from the compressor clutch field coil connector (1) located on the top of the A/C compressor (5) . Remove the bolts that secure the A/C compressor to the engine and support the A/C compressor. 5. Carefully remove the compressor clutch field coil connector and wire lead from the connector bracket (2). 6. Remove the compressor shaft bolt (3). A band-type oil filter wrench or a strap wrench may be used to hold the clutch plate (4) from rotating during bolt removal. CAUTION: Do not pry between the clutch plate and the pulley and bearing assembly to remove the clutch plate from the compressor shaft as this may damage the clutch plate. NOTE: Use care not to lose any clutch shim(s) during removal of the clutch plate, as they may be reused during the clutch plate installation process. 7. Tap the clutch plate (2) lightly with a plastic mallet to release it from the splines on the compressor shaft (1) and remove the clutch plate and shim(s) (3). 8. Using snap ring pliers (2), remove the snap ring (1) that secures the pulley and bearing assembly (3) to the front of the A/C compressor and remove the pulley and bearing assembly. 9. Using snap ring pliers (Special Tool C-4574 or equivalent) (1), remove the snap ring (4) that secures the compressor clutch field coil (2) to the front of the A/C compressor (3) and remove the field coil. INSTALLATION NOTE: Typical A/C compressor shown in illustrations. 1. Align the dowel pin on the back of the compressor clutch field coil (2) with the hole in the front of the A/C compressor (3) and position the field coil onto the compressor. Be certain that the compressor clutch field coil wire lead is properly routed so that it is not pinched between the A/C compressor and the field coil. CAUTION: The snap ring must be fully and properly seated in the groove or it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch failure and severe damage to the A/C compressor. NOTE: A new snap ring must be used to secure the compressor clutch field coil to the A/C compressor. The bevel side of the snap ring must face outward and both snap ring eyelets must be oriented to the right or to the left of the field coil dowel pin location on the A/C compressor. 2. Using snap ring pliers (Special Tool C-4574 or equivalent) (1), install the snap ring (4) that secures the compressor clutch field coil to the front of the A/C compressor. Be certain that the snap ring is fully and properly seated in the groove and oriented correctly. CAUTION: * Be certain to position the compressor clutch field coil wire lead so that

1984-1995 Honda Accord/Prelude In­Tank Fuel Pumps TEST/REPAIR MANUAL

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Carbureted Fuel System GENERAL INFORMATION On these vehicles, the engine management system is considered part of the emission control system. The major components include the carburetor(s), feedback control system, the air injection system, a throttle control system and the EGR system. The system consists of sensors and switches that feed information to the Electronic Control Unit (ECU), which will then operate several solenoid valves to maintain the ideal air/fuel ratio under all conditions. As useful as the tests found in this section are, the first step in repair or service to engine management systems is still to gain as much information as possible about the problem; when and under what conditions it occurs. At highway speed? At idle only? Only under heavy load or hard acceleration? Wet weather? Defining the problem will eliminate many systems from consideration and possibly point to the affected system. Before diving into an extended electrical diagnosis, take the time to review the basics. Check every vacuum line for cracks or leaks. Check every electrical connector for corrosion or loose pins. Quite often, simply unplugging and reconnecting a connector will break up corrosion on the pins and restore the circuit. Watch out for poor grounds, particularly if the car has experienced major bodywork. COMPONENT TESTING Air Injection System The purpose of this system is to supply oxygen to the exhaust stream at a point in the exhaust manifold that is hot enough to burn off some of the hydrocarbon emissions. The main component is an air suction valve. The valve is spring loaded to stay closed, with engine vacuum supplied to a diaphragm that reduces the spring pressure and allows the reeds to open. The ECU regulates the engine vacuum to the diaphragm by operating a solenoid valve. 1. With the engine at normal operating temperature and at idle, remove the air cleaner and listen for a bubbling sound at the air suction port. There should be no sound at idle, meaning the air suction valve is closed. 2. If the noise is heard at the air suction port, disconnect the vacuum hose at the air suction valve and connect a vacuum gauge to the hose. There should be no vacuum. If there is vacuum and the noise stops, the problem is in the control system. If there is no vacuum and the bubbling sound is still there, the air suction valve is defective and must be replaced. 3. To test the valve, draw a vacuum at the air suction valve diaphragm and listen for a bubbling sound at the air suction port. If no sound is heard, the air suction valve or diaphragm is faulty. Throttle Control System

2008 Ford Taurus AWD V6-3.5L – Rear Brake Pads Removal And Installation Manual

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Removal WARNING: Do not use any fluid other than clean brake fluid meeting manufacturer’s specification. Additionally, do not use brake fluid that has been previously drained. Following these instructions will help prevent system contamination, brake component damage and the risk of serious personal injury. WARNING: Carefully read cautionary information on product label. For EMERGENCY MEDICAL INFORMATION seek medical advice. In the USA or Canada on Ford/Motorcraft products call: 1-800-959-3673. For additional information, consult the product Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) if available. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury. CAUTION: Brake fluid is harmful to painted and plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, immediately wash it with water. CAUTION: Do not allow the brake fluid to come in contact with the adhesive backing on the brake pads. If brake fluid is spilled onto the brake pads, new pads must be installed. CAUTION: Use only specified brake parts cleaner. Use of other cleaners may leave a residue on the brake caliper preventing the brake pads adhesive surface from bonding with the brake caliper. 1. Remove the wheel and tire. 2. Check the brake fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir. * If required, remove fluid until the brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. 3. Remove the brake caliper bolts. 4. CAUTION: Do not use the brake caliper sight hole to retract the pistons as this may damage the pistons and boots. CAUTION: Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose or damage to the hose may occur. CAUTION: Care must be taken when servicing rear brake components without disconnecting the parking brake cable from the brake caliper lever. Carefully position the caliper aside using a suitable support or damage to the parking brake cable end fittings may occur. Using hand force and a rocking motion, separate the brake caliper from the anchor plate. Position the brake caliper aside. * Support the caliper with mechanic’s wire. 5. CAUTION: When the brake pads are separated from the brake caliper , new brake pads must be installed to prevent brake noise. The brake pads are one-time use only. Remove and discard the brake pads and spring clips from the brake caliper anchor plate. 6. NOTE: Do not remove the anchor plate guide pins. The guide pins are press fit to the brake caliper anchor plate. If the guide pins are damaged a new anchor plate must be installed. Inspect the brake caliper anchor plate assembly. * Check the guide pins and boots for binding or damage. * Install a new brake caliper anchor plate if it is worn or damaged. Installation 1. NOTE: To move the piston back into the caliper, the LH piston is turned clockwise and the RH piston is turned counterclockwise. NOTE: A moderate to heavy force toward the caliper piston must be applied. If sufficient force is not applied, the internal park brake mechanism clutch cone will not engage and the piston will not compress. Using the special tool (or equivalent such as OTC tool 7317A), compress the brake caliper piston into its cylinder. 2. Clean the residual adhesive from the brake caliper fingers and pistons using the specified brake parts cleaner. 3. CAUTION: Do not allow grease, oil, brake fluid or other contaminants to contact the brake pad or caliper mating surface or damage to components may occur. Do not install contaminated pads. NOTE: Install all the new hardware supplied with brake pad kit. Install the new spring clips and brake pads. 4. Position the brake caliper and install the 2 bolts. * Tighten to 29 Nm (21 lb-ft). 5. If necessary, fill the brake fluid reservoir with clean, specified brake fluid. 6. With the vehicle engine running, apply 89-133 N (20-30 lb) of pressure on the brakes for approximately one minute, to make sure the brake pads adhere to the caliper before any contamination can be introduced. 7. Test the brakes for normal operation.

Battery Electrical Drain/ Parasitic Load Test Repair Manual

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1. Disconnect the battery negative cable 2. Install the male end of the J 38758 to the negative battery terminal. 3. Turn OFF the test switch. 4. Install the negative battery cable to the female end of the test switch. 5. Install the Scan Tool (or equivalent) or wait for 20 minutes. 6. Turn ON the test switch. 7. Road test the vehicle while activating all accessories, including the radio and the air conditioning. 8. Lower the door glass, then exit the vehicle. Do not move the door handle after closing the door. 9. Open the hood. Important The power down timer will reset to 20 minutes if any wake up inputs are received by a Class 2 device (after the scan tool has put all Class 2 devices to sleep). 10. Put all of the Class 2 devices into the sleep mode. 11. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Remove the key. Important From this point on, electrical continuity must be maintained in the ground circuit of the battery through the Test Switch J 38758 in the ON position or through the ammeter J 39200 . 12. Components such as PCM, VCM, Automatic Air Conditioning, and the Truck Body Control Module have timers that draw several amps of current while they cycle down. This can give a false parasitic drain reading. Wait 20 minutes for these components to power down before continuing this test (or use the scan tool to put all Class 2 devices to sleep). 13. Connect a jumper wire with a 10 A fuse J 36169-A to the terminals of the test switch. 14. Turn the test switch to the OFF position. 15. Wait ten seconds. If the fuse does not blow, the current is less than 10 A. The ammeter can be used safely. 16. Before the fused jumper wire is removed, turn the test switch to the ON position. Important If an ammeter other than the J 39200 is used, ensure that the vehicle does not have a high current drain that would damage the ammeter when connected to the circuit. 17. Perform the following procedure in order to detect a high current drain: A. Set the ammeter J 39200 to the 10 A scale. B. Connect the ammeter to the test switch terminals. C. Turn OFF the test switch. This allows the current to flow through the ammeter. D. Wait one minute, then inspect the current reading. Ñ When there is a current reading of 2 A or less, turn ON the test switch, this maintains continuity in the electrical system. Ñ Then, switch the meter down to the 2 A scale, for a more accurate reading, when the test switch is reopened. E. Open the test switch. F. Take the reading in milliamps. G. Note the battery reserve capacity. Refer to Battery Usage . Ñ Divide this number by 4. Example: 90/4 = 22.5 Ñ Compare this to the ammeter reading. Ñ The current drain in milliamps should not exceed this number. Ñ Example: if a battery has a reserve capacity of 90 minutes, the current drain should not exceed 22 milliamps. H. When the current draw is too high, remove the electrical system fuses one at a time until the draw returns to a value less than or equal to specifications. Ñ Start with the fuses that are hot all the time. Ñ To remove the fuse, you must first open the door, which causes a high enough current flow to damage the ammeter. Ñ Protect the ammeter, without disturbing the electrical continuity, by turning ON the test tool before opening the door. Ñ Remove the courtesy lamp fuse. Ñ Note the ammeter reading. Ñ If the parasitic load is still excessive, start removing the remaining fuses one at a time. Ñ Keep the courtesy lamp fuse out during diagnosis, so the door can remain open. Ñ Perform Steps 11 through 13 each time a fuse is removed. I. Removing the PCM or VCM fuse should cause a drop of less than 10 milliamps. A drop greater than 10 milliamps indicates a possible short to ground. J. Check the orange wires along with the components connected to the orange wires. No drop in the milliampere reading indicates the PCM or VCM is not drawing current. K. Repeat the parasitic current drain test procedure after any repair has been completed. L. When the cause of the excessive current draw has been located and repaired, remove the ammeter and the parasitic draw test switch.