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3406E Truck Engine Installation OR Removal Of The Speed/ Timing Sensor

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 22-06-2012

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1. Disconnect the speed/timing connector “P9/J9″ (2) . Inspect the connector for the following conditions. * Corrosion * Bent pins * Missing pins * Damaged sockets * Mismating * Broken wires 2. Remove the Speed/timing sensor (1) from the front gear cover. 3. Examine the plastic end of the sensor for signs of wear or contaminants such as metal filings. The plastic end of the speed/timing sensor should have no contaminants and should show no wear (greater than 0.051 mm (0.0020 inch) from the face) . 4. Use a screwdriver to carefully pry the plastic sensor end to the fully extended position (approximately 4.775 mm (0.1880 inch) beyond the metal housing of the sensor). 5. Gently push in on the plastic end of the sensor. The plastic end should be firm. The plastic end should resist movement in the retract direction. If there is no resistance replace the sensor 6. Remove the two bolts (3) and remove the cover (5) from the flywheel housing. This hole is used for engine turning. 7. Put one bolt (3) in the timing bolt location (4) . The timing bolt location is approximately 127 mm to 152 mm (5 inch to 6 inch) above the hole in the flywheel housing for engine turning. I 8. Use 9S-9082 Engine Turning Tool (6) and a 1/2 inch drive ratchet wrench to turn the engine flywheel in the direction of normal engine rotation. The normal engine rotation is in a counterclockwise direction when viewed from the flywheel end. Turn the engine flywheel until the timing bolt engages with the threaded hole in the flywheel. Note: Visually check the location of the tooth on the wheel on which the speed/timing sensor is to be positioned. The end of the sensor must be in alignment with a tooth on the wheel and not in alignment with the valley of the wheel. Note: The No. 1 piston must be at either top center of the compression stroke or at top center of the exhaust stroke. 9. Inspect the speed/timing sensor before installation. Use steps 3 through step 6 to inspect the sensor. 10. If the sensor end is not fully extended, use a screwdriver to carefully pry the plastic sensor end to the fully EXTENDED position approximately 4.775 mm (0.1880 inch) beyond the metal housing of the sensor.

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1992 Toyota Cressida Wiring Diagram

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 30-11-2011

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tem Wire ColorPolarity Wire Location 12V white – white/red Positive (+) steering column Starter black/white Positive (+) steering column Starter 2 none Ignition black/yellow Positive (+) steering column 2nd Ignition black/red Positive (+) steering column 3rd Ignition none Accessory blue/red Positive (+) steering column Accessory 2 none Tachometer black/yellow check conn(ig-) Power Door (Lock) Wiring Diagram for [ Negative (-) ] Door Lock green/red Negative (-) pass kick or theft ecu Power Door (Unlock) Wiring Diagram for [ Negative (-) ] Door Unlock green/whiteNegative (-) pass kick or theft ecu Door Trigger red/white Negative (-) theft ecu[1] Dome Supervision Wiring Diagram for [ none ] Dome none none none Headlights red/yellow Negative (-) steering column Parklight Positive green Positive (+) dimmer controll or dkp Parklight Negative green/whiteNegative (-) steering column Wipers blue/black Positive (+) steering column Left Front Window (Up/Down) grn/wht – red/blu in drivers door Right Front Window (Up/Down) pnk/blk – pnk in drivers door or dkp Left Rear Window (Up/Down) red – red-yel A in drivers door or dkp Right Rear Window (Up/Down) grn/blk – red/blk A in drivers door or dkp Trunk/Hatch Pin red/white Negative (-) at light, or theft ecu Hood Pin tied with doors Trunk/Hatch Release Wiring Diagram for [] Trunk/Hatch none Factory Alarm (Arm) arms with lock Factory Alarm (Disarm) disarms with unlock Horn white/red Negative (-) st.column or theft ecu Brake green/black Positive (+) brake switch Door Motor (Lock) none none none Door Motor (Unlock) none none none

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2001 Ford Escort Engine – Vibration While Idling SERVICE PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 28-01-2012

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SERVICE PROCEDURE NOTE THE PROCEDURE CONTAINED IN THIS TSB ARTICLE MAY NOT COMPLETELY ELIMINATE ALL VIBRATION FROM THE VEHICLE. SOME VIBRATION IS INHERENT IN 1-4 ENGINE DESIGNS, SUCH AS THE SPI AND ZETEC 2.0L. THIS PROCEDURE IS DESIGNED TO REDUCE THE AMOUNT OF VIBRATION EXPERIENCED BY THE CUSTOMER. PROCEDURE FOR 2003 ESCORT ZX2 PROCEDURES FOR 1997-2002 ESCORT, ESCORT ZX2 AND TRACER ^DRIVEABILITY – IDLE VIBRATION – VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.0L SPI OR ZETEC ENGINE ONLY ^ENGINE – IDLE VIBRATION – VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.0L SPI OR ZETEC ENGINE ONLY 1. Neutralize engine mounts only. Refer to appropriate model year Noise, Vibration and Harshness (NVH) Workshop Manual Section 100-04. 1. Shift the transaxle into Neutral and apply the parking brake. 2. Remove battery and battery tray. 3. Support engine with Three-Bar Engine Support Tool (Rotunda 303-D063) and Lifting Brackets (Rotunda 303-050). 4. Raise vehicle. Refer to the appropriate model year Workshop Manual, Section 100-02. Zoom Sized for Print 5. Remove the rear lower cross-member (attached with four (4) bolts (Figure 1)). 6. Remove the engine support cross-member that runs from front to rear of the engine (Belly Band). This can be accomplished by removing the front two (2) attaching bolts, the rear two (2) attaching nuts and the four (4) Engine Mount # 1 and # 2 nuts (Figure 1). . Modify the Belly Band on the two rear attaching Engine Mount # 1 holes by slotting the holes approximately 1/4″ (6 mm) in a front to rear direction. Use a Drill Bit (Figure 7)

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 L4-2.0L DOHC Diagnose and repair idle vibration conditions by referring to the following idle vibration Service Procedures

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 06-05-2012

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PROCEDURE FOR 2003 ESCORT ZX2 PROCEDURES FOR 1997-2002 ESCORT, ESCORT ZX2 AND TRACER ^DRIVEABILITY – IDLE VIBRATION – VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.0L SPI OR ZETEC ENGINE ONLY ^ENGINE – IDLE VIBRATION – VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.0L SPI OR ZETEC ENGINE ONLY 1. Neutralize engine mounts only. Refer to appropriate model year Noise, Vibration and Harshness (NVH) Workshop Manual Section 100-04. 1. Shift the transaxle into Neutral and apply the parking brake. 2. Remove battery and battery tray. 3. Support engine with Three-Bar Engine Support Tool (Rotunda 303-D063) and Lifting Brackets (Rotunda 303-050). 4. Raise vehicle. Refer to the appropriate model year Workshop Manual, Section 100-02. Zoom Sized for Print 5. Remove the rear lower cross-member (attached with four (4) bolts (Figure 1)) 6. Remove the engine support cross-member that runs from front to rear of the engine (Belly Band). This can be accomplished by removing the front two (2) attaching bolts, the rear two (2) attaching nuts and the four (4) Engine Mount # 1 and # 2 nuts (Figure 1). 7. Modify the Belly Band on the two rear attaching Engine Mount # 1 holes by slotting the holes approximately 1/4″ (6 mm) in a front to rear direction. Use a Drill Bit (Figure 7). 8. Loosen the center bolt on the # 1 (rear) lower Engine Mount (Figure 4). 9. Loosen the center bolt on the # 2 (front) lower Engine Mount (Figure 4) 10. Remove original front and rear engine support cross-member bushings (Figure 3). Zoom Sized for Print a. Modify two (2) new Front-Upper Engine Support Cross-Member Bushings only (F7CZ-6A061-AA) by removing approximately 1/4″ (6 mm) of material from two (2) sides of the upper bushing. Use a utility knife or hack saw to achieve desired shape (Figure 2). b. Reinstall front attaching point of engine support cross-member with the original two (2) bolts, two (2) new Lower Bushings (F7CZ-6A061-BA), and two (2) new Upper Bushings (F7CZ-6A061-AA) that were modified in Step A (Figure 3). Apply 2-3 drops of threadlocker (EOAZ-19554-AA) to the bolts. c. Reinstall rear attaching point of engine support cross-member using new Bushings (F7CZ-6A061-BA and F7CZ-6A061-AA) and original nuts (Figure 3). Both rear position upper bushings must be installed in “AS IS” condition (UNMODIFIED). d. Torque the retaining nuts and bolts to 64-89 N.m (47-65 lb-ft.). 11. Reinstall the front attaching points of the Belly Band with the original two (2) bolts. Apply 2-3 drops of threadlocker (EOAZ-19554-AA) to the bolts (Figure 1). 12. Reinstall rear-attaching points of the Belly Band with original two (2) nuts (Figure 1). 13. Torque the retaining nuts and bolts to 64-89 N-m (47-65 lb-ft.)

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1998 Ford Escort Diagnose and repair idle vibration conditions by referring to the following idle vibration Service Procedures

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 30-04-2012

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PROCEDURE FOR 2003 ESCORT ZX2 PROCEDURES FOR 1997-2002 ESCORT, ESCORT ZX2 AND TRACER ^DRIVEABILITY – IDLE VIBRATION – VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.0L SPI OR ZETEC ENGINE ONLY ^ENGINE – IDLE VIBRATION – VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.0L SPI OR ZETEC ENGINE ONLY 1. Neutralize engine mounts only. Refer to appropriate model year Noise, Vibration and Harshness (NVH) Workshop Manual Section 100-04. 1. Shift the transaxle into Neutral and apply the parking brake. 2. Remove battery and battery tray. 3. Support engine with Three-Bar Engine Support Tool (Rotunda 303-D063) and Lifting Brackets (Rotunda 303-050). 4. Raise vehicle. Refer to the appropriate model year Workshop Manual, Section 100-02. Zoom Sized for Print 5. Remove the rear lower cross-member (attached with four (4) bolts (Figure 1)) 6. Remove the engine support cross-member that runs from front to rear of the engine (Belly Band). This can be accomplished by removing the front two (2) attaching bolts, the rear two (2) attaching nuts and the four (4) Engine Mount # 1 and # 2 nuts (Figure 1) 7. Modify the Belly Band on the two rear attaching Engine Mount # 1 holes by slotting the holes approximately 1/4″ (6 mm) in a front to rear direction. Use a Drill Bit (Figure 7). 8. Loosen the center bolt on the # 1 (rear) lower Engine Mount (Figure 4). 9. Loosen the center bolt on the # 2 (front) lower Engine Mount (Figure 4) a. Modify two (2) new Front-Upper Engine Support Cross-Member Bushings only (F7CZ-6A061-AA) by removing approximately 1/4″ (6 mm) of material from two (2) sides of the upper bushing. Use a utility knife or hack saw to achieve desired shape (Figure 2). b. Reinstall front attaching point of engine support cross-member with the original two (2) bolts, two (2) new Lower Bushings (F7CZ-6A061-BA), and two (2) new Upper Bushings (F7CZ-6A061-AA) that were modified in Step A (Figure 3). Apply 2-3 drops of threadlocker (EOAZ-19554-AA) to the bolts. c. Reinstall rear attaching point of engine support cross-member using new Bushings (F7CZ-6A061-BA and F7CZ-6A061-AA) and original nuts (Figure 3). Both rear position upper bushings must be installed in “AS IS” condition (UNMODIFIED). d. Torque the retaining nuts and bolts to 64-89 N.m (47-65 lb-ft.). 11. Reinstall the front attaching points of the Belly Band with the original two (2) bolts. Apply 2-3 drops of threadlocker (EOAZ-19554-AA) to the bolts (Figure 1). 12. Reinstall rear-attaching points of the Belly Band with original two (2) nuts (Figure 1). 13. Torque the retaining nuts and bolts to 64-89 N-m (47-65 lb-ft.).

Steering, Brake And Suspension Specialists Proportioning Valve Diagram

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 01-10-2011

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This diagram is the most common way to plumb a proportioning valve. In some cases, the right front line will be plugged off at the proportioning valve and the left front line will go to a “T” fitting. From the “T” fitting, the front lines then split off and go to the left and right wheels. Our proportioning valve has a warning light switch built in (this is not a stop light switch.) The warning light will detect any loss of pressure, for example, a leaky wheel cylinder. We recommend you wire this light into your system. Any two wire light socket will work. One wire goes to the accessory power and the other goes to the warning light. Our proportioning valves provide four functions: 1. Proportion pressure front and rear 2. 10 psi. residual check valve 3. Metering valve to apply pressure to the rear brakes before the front brakes 4. A brake warning light to detect a loss in pressure Proportioning Valve Plumbing Diagram: There are two proportioning valve lines that connect to the master cylinder provided in our kits. The first is a 90 degree bend with one leg longer than the other. This line must be oriented with the long leg connected into the front top hole of the proportioning valve and the short end in the front hole on the master cylinder. The second line has two 90 degree bends and has color coded fittings. The larger blue fitting goes into the back hole on the master cylinder and the smaller gold fitting goes into the back top hole on the proportion valve as shown in the diagram

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TOYOTA G52, G54, W56 & G58 (AX5) 5 SPEED TRANS. TO CHEVY AND BUICK ENGINES INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 10-11-2011

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This bellhousing is not compatible with transmissions that were previously equipped with diesel engines. The bellhousing design incorporates a special modified clutch release lever and a Toyota Land Cruiser slave cylinder. We have provided slave cylinder mounting on the passenger side of the bellhousing and have incorporated a new push rod location that will provide a quick short travel of the clutch release mechanism. The kit does not include the Toyota Land Cruiser slave cylinder, Part No. 31470-60022. The bellhousing is designed for the 153 tooth flywheel application. If your block is equipped with a 168 tooth flywheel, you will be required to use a high torque starter without a nose cone to fit the bellhousing (P/N 22-0001). The bellhousing is compatible with the Buick flywheel that has 160 teeth. A slight modification may be required in the starter pocket area when using the Buick installation. The inside of the bellhousing uses a high profile Centerforce diaphragm clutch assembly. By using this pressure plate, you can be sure that the slave cylinder travel will be appropriate for obtaining a maximum clutch release. The release bearing, Part No. N1430, is a standard flat faced Chevy release bearing. The bearing must not have continual contact with the fingers of the clutch. Adjust the length of your push rod for clearance between the fingers and the face of bearing. In order to adjust the height of the release bearing, we recommend that you install the new bellhousing over the clutch assembly and onto the engine prior to assembling the transmission to the bellhousing. By doing this procedure, you will be able to install the clutch release lever, slave cylinder, slave cylinder push rod, and release bearing directly to the clutch assembly. The reason this is necessary is that there are variations as to the thickness of the flywheel which either raise or lower the fingers of the clutch as related to the release bearing. The push rod of the slave cylinder can be adjusted, to obtain the necessary clearance between the release bearing and clutch fingers. If the bearing is permitted continual contact on the fingers, then you will have premature release bearing failure. We do not furnish a rubber boot for the area between the bellhousing and clutch arm since it is too restrictive for the clutch arm movement. We believe that the location of the opening is such that any dust or other debris will have a hard time accessing the opening. If you anticipate water hazards, we would recommend a small rubber flapper that could be screwed to the outside of the bellhousing.

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1999 – Current Toyota Tundra Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 03-03-2012

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Step 1: Bedliner Modification Note: If the truck is equipped with a plastic drop-in bedliner, some alteration will be necessary. Ifno bedliner is present, proceed to Step 2. A. The dotted lines in Diagram 1 depict the more common under-the-rail liner modifications. A. 1. Using a jig saw with a medium tooth blade, remove the bulkhead portion of the liner as indicated. A. 2. Be sure to trim the bedliner’s plastic tailgate panel as shown. B. The dotted lines in Diagram 2 depict the less common over-the-rail liner modifications. A. 1. Using a jig saw with a medium tooth blade, remove the top cap and bulkhead portions of the liner as indicated. A. 2. If a rear notch is necessary, placethe tracks on their respective bedrails and mark the positions of the most rearward clamps prior to removing the liner. (The correct position of the track is with the black plastic track end-cap touching the inside surface of the tailgate.) A. 3. When the modification is complete, push the wall of the liner under the bedrail. A. 4. Be sure to trim the bedliner’s plastic tailgate panel as shown Step 2: Shim the OE Bedrail Caps (units 546 & 565) A. Remove the plastic bedrail caps, starting at the tailgate and lifting slowly (Photo 3) . Allow each snap to release as you proceed, being careful not to overstress the rail cap. B. Place the correct stick-on shim pads at the locations shown in Diagram 4. Note: The measurements shown in the graph below are taken beginning from the bulkhead end of the bedrail cap down-flange. Be sure to center the shims at each location and place them agains the down flange as shown in Diagram 5 . Product Code ABCD 546 (all 1/4″ shims) 16″ 37″ 49″ 61″ 1 / 8 ” shim @1/ 4 ” shim @3/ 8 ” shim @1/ 2 ” shim @ 565 18 1/ 2 “37 1/ 2 ” 49″ 60″ C. With

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2001 Toyota Echo L4-1.5L Transmission and Drivetrain Clutch Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 04-06-2011

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REMOVAL 1. REMOVE TRANSAXLE FROM ENGINE 2. REMOVE CLUTCH COVER AND DISC a. Align the matchmark on the clutch cover with the one on the flywheel . b. Loosen each set bolt one turn at a time until spring tension is released. c. Remove the set bolts, and pull off the clutch cover with the clutch disc . NOTICE: Do not drop the clutch disc . 3. REMOVE RELEASE BEARING AND FORK FROM TRANSAXLE Remove the release bearing with the fork together and then separate them. 4. REMOVE RELEASE FORK SUPPORT AND BOOT INSPECTION 1. INSPECT CLUTCH DISC FOR WEAR OR DAMAGE Using vernier calipers, measure the rivet head depth. Minimum rivet depth: 0.3 mm (0.012 inch) If necessary, replace the clutch disc . Zoom Sized for Print Zoom Sized for Print Inspect Clutch Disc Runout 2. INSPECT CLUTCH DISC RUNOUT Using a dial indicator, check the disc runout. Maximum runout: 0.8 mm (0.031 inch) If necessary, replace the clutch disc runout. 3. INSPECT FLYWHEEL RUNOUT Using a dial indicator, check the flywheel runout. Maximum runout: 0.1 mm (0.004 inch) If necessary, replace the flywheel . Torque: 1st: 49 Nm ( 00 kgf-cm, 36 ft. lbs.) 2nd: Turn 90° 4. INSPECT DIAPHRAGM SPRING FOR WEAR Using vernier calipers, measure the diaphragm spring for depth and width of wear. Maximum: A (Depth): 0.5 mm (0.020 inch) B (Width): 6.0 mm (0.236 inch) If necessary, replace the clutch cover.

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TOYOTA TO CHEVY AND BUICK ENGINE – TURBO CHARGED INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 20-09-2011

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: 1. Install the pilot bushing into the engine crank. 2. Bolt the flywheel to the engine crank using special flywheel bolts. 3. Assemble the clutch assembly and special disc to the flywheel using special clutch bolts. 4. Assemble the clutch release arm to the inside ball pivot of the bellhousing. 5. Bolt the slave cylinder to the outside of the bellhousing. 6. Test fit the bellhousing assembly over the clutch assembly and onto the engine block. 7. Place the N1430 release bearing onto the clutch arm fork. 8. Adjust the length of the slave cylinder push rod to a length that provides a minimum of 1/8″ clearance between the release bearing face and clutch fingers. 9. This test fit over the clutch assembly is primarily done for establishing the push rod length. If this procedure is eliminated, you will not have any visual inspection for verifying the push rod adjustment. 10. Remove the bellhousing assembly from the engine. 11. Bolt the bellhousing to the front of your Toyota 5 speed transmission using the original bolts. Make sure that the two dowel pins installed in the face of the 5 speed transmission are properly fitted to the Advance Adapter bellhousing. 12. Slide the new release bearing onto the Toyota bearing retainer. Make sure that there is grease in the internal cavity of the release bearing. Most new bearings are pre-lubricated. 13. With all the components in position, you can now bolt the new bellhousing assembly onto the engine block. We have provided six (6) new socket head bolts, 3/8″-16 x 1-1/2″ long for this purpose. Make sure the engine dowel pins are properly aligned with the new bellhousing dowel pin holes. DO NOT FORCE THE BELLHOUSING ONTO THE ENGINE BLOCK. Some applications may require the tip of the input shaft to be modified slightly. The bellhousing must fit evenly to the engine block. 14. With the bellhousing now in position and the slave cylinder push rod installed, you should be able to verify the clearance between the release bearing & clutch fingers. The lever should have movement of approximately 1/8″ to 1/4″. CAUTION : If you have too much clearance, you will be utilizing too much of the slave cylinder stroke and could possibly prevent you from obtaining a full clutch release. A light duty return spring attached to the clutch release arm will prevent any premature contact of the release bearing with the clutch fingers. 15. The Toyota Land Cruiser slave cylinder will replace the original Toyota slave cylinder. The Toyota truck hydraulic slave cylinder line will have exactly the same fitting size as used on the Land Cruiser slave cylinder. 16. With the new slave cylinder installed, you can now bleed the slave cylinder installation by pumping up the slave cylinder pedal. Most installations are compatible with the original Toyota master cylinder. We have encountered a few installations that require changing of the Toyota master cylinder to a smaller 3/4″ piston. If you have any type of clutch difficulty related to full disengagement of the clutch assembly, contact Advance Adapters for any updated information.

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