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1998 – 2003 Toyota Sienna SLIDING DOOR DIAGNOSTIC TIPS/ REPAIR MANUAL

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CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE COMMON REPAIR Top RollerComes Rail bent or widened condition Replace the upper slide door rail. Top Roller Comes Out of Rail Guide The stopper at the end of the rail is loose or missing. Replace the stopper as needed. Door Does Not Lock in Full Open Position Full open stop latch assembly is damaged. Replace the full open stop latch assembly. Left Door Opens Half Way Fuel door half stopper cable damaged. Adjust the cable. Replace the cable, if damaged. Difficltto Open Dirty weatherstrip. Clean all soda spills or other sticky substances that may have accumulated on weatherstrip and door. Difficult to Open Manually Inside handle release button damaged. Replace inside handle release button assembly according to TSB No. BO027-00, “Sliding Door Handle Push Button Operation”. Door out of adjustment. Adjust levelness of the door, according to Repair Manual. Dragging Open/Close Mll Running board rubs against the bottom of the sliding door. Adjust running board to proper position and assure clearance from the door. Manually Roller rails have bent or warp condition. Dirt or debris in the rails and rollers. Clean rails and rollers. Replace damaged parts. CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE COMMON REPAIR Creak Noise Junction block, damaged components, and other issues Refer to TSB No. BO003-99, “Sliding Door Creak Noise Reduction.” Refer to the “Common Sources of Creak Noise” section of this bulletin for additional information for sources of creak noise. Rattle or Clicking (NOT Creak Noise) Door moving when driving over bumps Rollers loose or damaged Adjust lower roller base mounting to bring door closer to body (Refer to TIS, applicable model year Sienna Repair Manual, Vehicle Exterior – Door/Hatch – “Slide Door: Adjustment”). Adjust strikers to bring door closer to the body. Inspect the latch assembly and replace, if damaged. Replace damaged rollers. Noise During Open/Close Rollers or rails are damaged and/or dirty. Inspect, clean, and/or replace as needed

2002 Ford Focus L4-2.0L SOHC VIN P-Front Door Latch Removal And Installation Manual

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Hood and Trunk Front Door Latch Service and Repair Front Door Latch Front Door Latch Notes REMOVAL 1. Remove the front door trim panel . 2. Remove the side impact energy absorption panel. 3. Remove the screw (if equipped). 4. Detach the door latch remote control. 1. Detach the handle from the door panel. 2. Detach the door latch remote control. 5. Peel back the watershield. CAUTION: Do not touch the adhesive surface as re-bonding will be impaired. 6. Disconnect the door latch actuator electrical connector. 7. Remove the exterior door handle access hole grommet from the door. 8. Loosen the screw. NOTE: The screw must be fully disengaged from the door lock cylinder bezel although it is not necessary to fully remove the screw 9. Remove the door lock cylinder bezel. 10. Remove the exterior door handle. 1. Slide the exterior door handle to release. 2. Remove the exterior door handle and gaskets. 11. Remove the screws. 12. Loosen the screw. NOTE: The screw must be fully disengaged from the exterior door handle although it is not necessary to fully remove the screw. 13. Detach the door latch. 1. Press the door latch to release. 2. Detach the door latch. 14. Detach the door latch security shield. 15. Remove the door latch and exterior door handle reinforcement plate. 16. Disconnect the door lock cylinder connecting rod. 1. Rotate the clip counterclockwise to release the connecting rod. 2. Disconnect the connecting rod. 17. Disconnect the exterior door handle reinforcement plate connecting rod.

4-PANEL With New Automatic Latch System Truck WITH Factory Tailgate Lock CLASS 3 Installation Manual

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INSTALLATION OVERVIEW: 1) Measure and make your marks for your masking tape to put your gaskets on each side. 2) Put down masking tape the entire length of the truck 3) Follow masking tape and install peel and stick gaskets (don’t trim in the rear just yet). 4) Place cover onto truck (you will use the measurements provided to make sure the cover is located exactly in the right position 5) Install Keyhole Bracket (holds the 3rd Leg Hinge) Explanation of 3rd Leg Hinge : • 3rd Leg hinge is a flap of metal that is integrated into the hinge • This flap is on the first hinge right behind the cab of the truck • When you mount the cover, this flap hangs straight down, and slides right into the keyhole bracket 6) Install two “C” Clamps to each Keyhole bracket to secure to the truck 7) Install your stainless steel bolt with lock nut that secures the 3rd Leg Hinge (the flap) into the keyhole bracket on each side. That is “your” permanent point of attachment. (THESE ARE THE SAME TWO BOLTS THAT YOU REMOVE TO TAKE OFF THE COVER) *Remember, the cover is now “installed” and cannot slide around – so you MOUNT ALL THE HARDWARE TO FIT THE COVER from here on out 8) Attach center latch catch on inside of side rails using “C” Clamps. *Center Latch Catch: holds center hinge and the 2 panels in the middle down when the cover is closed. When you close the last panel flat onto the tailgate, a stainless steel “button” along each side of the cover is depressed between the 2 panels at the hinge. When this button is squeezed, it actually pushes a stainless steel latch towards the front of the truck catching the center latch on each side rail. 9) Attach Rear Latch Catch Brackets* using “C” Clamps * These are angled pieces of metal that give your cover’s latches something to “latch to” and are installed with “C” clamps. 10) Install Front Latch Catch Brackets using “C” clamps 11) THIS STEP IS ONLY FOR THE Ford F250/F350 SuperDuty Installations ONLY: The outer seal that comes with your cover and is attached on this rail is called a “Side Box Seal” Because the plastic Ford rails on the SuperDuty are ridged/grooved a little deeper and wider than those on the other Ford trucks, a set of small matte black screws are used in addition to the adhesive on the seal to ensure a snug fit. These screws only slightly penetrate the plastic side rail cover and do not come in contact with the underlying metal side rail

FORD 4-PANEL With New Automatic Latch System Truck WITH Factory Tailgate Lock CLASS 3 Installation Manual

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1) Clean rail surfaces really well with denatured alcohol and make sure they are dry. 2) Press Gasket down firmly the entire length of the gasket 1) Use thin foam double stick tape to hold the clamped hardware in place on inside side rails. The reason we suggest you use this foam is that it is just an extra added protection to keep your clamped hardware from shifting on the sometimes slick surface of some sprayed-in bedliners. • ALL HARDWARE PROVIDED: Stainless steel nuts (18) Part # 9723 or 9723-A – Low Profile Cast aluminum “C” Clamps (16 of them) The only difference with 9723 and 9723-A is that A is a little deeper “C” clamp which is required on some trucks because of the way the inside rail is made. These cast aluminum “C” clamps uninstalled are about the size of a 1 dollar coin and about ¾ inch thick. Part # 9724-T : Latch Installation Tape – (4 pcs.) Part # 9724 – Latch Catch Bracket (4) – These are angled pieces of metal that give your cover’s latches something to “latch to” and are installed with “C” clamps. Part # 9731 – Center Latch Catches (2) Part # 9736 – D Shaped Seals (2) – Described Above Part # 9714 or 9758 – Stainless Steel Screws (18) (Depending on “C” clamps required above) Part # ST-114 – Keyhole Bracket (2) (Mounted at the Hinge closest to the cab of the truck on the inside of the side rail of the truck at that hinge point). Part # 9727 – Box Seal (2) – Described above INSTALLATION OVERVIEW: 1) Measure and make your marks for your masking tape to put your gaskets on each side. 2) Put down masking tape the entire length of the truck 3) Follow masking tape and install peel and stick gaskets (don’t trim in the rear just yet). 4) Place cover onto truck (you will use the measurements provided to make sure the cover is located exactly in the right position 5) Install Keyhole Bracket (holds the 3rd Leg Hinge) Explanation of 3rd Leg Hinge : • 3rd Leg hinge is a flap of metal that is integrated into the hinge • This flap is on the first hinge right behind the cab of the truck • When you mount the cover, this flap hangs straight down, and slides right into the keyhole bracket 6) Install two “C” Clamps to each Keyhole bracket to secure to the truck 7) Install your stainless steel bolt with lock nut that secures the 3rd Leg Hinge (the flap) into the keyhole bracket on each side. That is “your” permanent point of attachment. (THESE ARE THE SAME TWO BOLTS THAT YOU REMOVE TO TAKE OFF THE COVER) *Remember, the cover is now “installed” and cannot slide around – so you MOUNT ALL THE HARDWARE TO FIT THE COVER from here on out 8) Attach center latch catch on inside of side rails using “C” Clamps. *Center Latch Catch: holds center hinge and the 2 panels in the middle down when the cover is closed. When you close the last panel flat onto the tailgate, a stainless steel “button” along each side of the cover is depressed between the 2 panels at the hinge. When this button is squeezed, it actually pushes a stainless steel latch towards the front of the truck catching the center latch on each side rail. 9) Attach Rear Latch Catch Brackets* using “C” Clamps * These are angled pieces of metal that give your cover’s latches something to “latch to” and are installed with “C” clamps. 10) Install Front Latch Catch Brackets using “C” clamps 11) THIS STEP IS ONLY FOR THE Ford F250/F350 SuperDuty Installations ONLY: The outer seal that comes with your cover and is attached on this rail is called a “Side Box Seal” Because the plastic Ford rails on the SuperDuty are ridged/grooved a little deeper and wider than those on the other Ford trucks, a set of small matte black screws are used in addition to the adhesive on the seal to ensure a snug fit. These screws only slightly penetrate the plastic side rail cover and do not come in contact with the underlying metal side rail

2007-2009 Toyota FJ Cruiser Banks Monster Exhaust System Installation Manual

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1. Before starting work, familiarize yourself with the installation procedure by reading all of the instructions. 2. The exploded view (Figure 2) provides only general guidance. Refer to each step and section diagram in this manual for proper instruction. 3. Throughout this manual, the left side of the vehicle refers to the driver’s side, and the right side to the passenger’s side. 4. Disconnect the negative (ground) cable from the battery (or batteries, if there are two) before beginning work. 5. Route and tie wires and hoses a minimum of 6″ away from exhaust heat, moving parts and sharp edges. clearance of 8″ or more is recommended where possible. 6. When raising the vehicle, support it on properly weight-rated safety stands, ramps or a commercial hoist. Follow the manufacturer’s safety precautions. Take care to balance the vehicle to prevent it from slipping or falling. When using ramps, be sure the front wheels are centered squarely on the topsides; put the transmission in park; set the hand brake; and place blocks behind the rear wheels. Caution! Do not use floor jacks to support the vehicle while working under it. Do not raise the vehicle onto concrete blocks, masonry or any other item not intended specifically for this use. 7. During installation, keep the work area clean. Do not allow anything to be dropped into intake, exhaust, or lubrication system components while performing the installation, as foreign objects will cause immediate engine damage upon start-up. Tools Required: • 1? 2 ” and 3? 8 ” drive ratchets with standard and metric sockets and 1 ? 2 ” and 3? 8 ” drive extension • Standard and metric combination or open-end wrenches • Standard screwdriver • Clean shop towels or rags • Pry-bar Highly recommended tools and supplies: • Foot-pound torque wrench • Penetrating oil or light lubricant spray General Installation Practices 97083 v.2.0 3 Monster Exhaust SySTEM INSTallaTIoN 1. Disconnect the negative (ground) cable from the battery (if there is more than one battery, disconnect both negative cables). Secure the cable so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the post. 2. Raise the vehicle and support it securely with properly weight-rated safety stands, ramps or a commercial hoist. Take care to balance the vehicle to prevent it from slipping or falling. When using ramps, be sure the wheels are centered squarely on the topsides. Place the transmission in park (automatic), set the parking brake and securely block the wheels that are on the ground. CaUTIoN: Do NoT WoRK UNDER aNy VEHIClE SUPPoRTED oNly By a JaCK. SEVERE INJURy May RESUlT. 3. From under the vehicle remove the factory exhaust starting at the 2-bolt flange in front of the muffler. Remove the two (2) bolts, two (2) washers, and two (2) springs from the flange and retain for re-use. NOTE: Remove the factory gasket from the 2-bolt flange. The exhaust system will be hanging by the exhaust hanger pins. 4. Liberally apply an aerosol lubricant on all the hanger pins. Remove the exhaust system from the vehicle by removing each hanger pin from the rubber grommet. NOTE: Remove hanger pins from the front of the vehicle to the rear. 5. Drop the exhaust system to the floor and move out of the way. You will not be reusing any components from the exhaust system. 6. Install the Banks conical gasket onto the vehicle’s 2-bolt flange. 7. Install the hanger pin on the intermediate pipe into the corresponding rubber grommet. Install the Banks intermediate pipe onto the factory 2-bolt intermediate pipe outlet using the factory hardware. See Figure 1. When tightening the