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1989 Toyota 4Runner ENGINE PERFORMANCE Removal Overhaul And Installation

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 26-10-2011

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CARBURETOR (COROLLA) REMOVAL 1) Drain cooling system. Disconnect air intake hose. Disconnect emission control hoses from air cleaner. Remove air cleaner mounting bolt and wing nut. Remove air cleaner. 2) Disconnect accelerator cable. Disconnect throttle cable (A/T). Disconnect carburetor wiring connector. Disconnect emission control hoses and tag for installation. Disconnect fuel inlet hose. Remove 4 carburetor mounting nuts and No. 1 vacuum pipe. Remove carburetor. DISASSEMBLY Air Horn 1) Remove air cleaner setting bolt. Remove fuel pipe clamp, union, fuel pipe and gaskets. Remove vacuum hoses. Remove pump and pivot screw and pump arm with connecting link. Disconnect choke link and choke opener link. 2 Remove 8 air horn screws and number plate, fuel pipe support and wire clamps. Remove air horn from carburetor body. Disconnect wiring from solenoid valves. 3) Remove float pivot pin, float and needle valve assembly. Remove air horn gasket, needle valve seat and gasket, power piston retainer, power piston and spring. Remove pump plunger and boot. See Fig. 2.
Fig. 1: Exploded View of Aisan Carburetor Main Body (Corolla) Courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. Fig. 2: Exploded View of Air Horn Assembly (Corolla) Courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc. Main Body 1) Remove solenoid valves from carburetor body. Remove stopper gasket. Disconnect throttle positioner links and remove bracket attaching bolts. Remove accelerator pump retainer gasket and remove pump discharge weight, long spring and discharge large ball. See Fig. 1. 2) Remove pump dampening spring. Using tweezers, remove plunger retainer and check ball. Disconnect throttle positioner link and throttle position levers, washer and spring. Remove primary and secondary main passage plugs and gaskets. Remove primary and secondary main jets and gaskets. 3) Remove auxiliary acceleration pump (AAP) housing, spring and diaphragm. Remove AAP inlet plug and check ball. Remove outlet plug, short spring and small ball. Remove primary and secondary small venturies. 4) Remove sight glass retainer, sight glass and “O” ring. Remove throttle lever return spring and back spring. Remove throttle lever and fast idle cam. 5) Disconnect link and remove secondary throttle valve diaphragm assembly and gasket. Remove throttle position switch and bracket. Remove 3 body-to-flange screws and vacuum passage screw. Separate body from flange. See Fig. 3. Remove washer from throttle valve shaft. Remove idle mixture adjusting screw and idle speed adjusting screw.

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HIGH TECH DUAL QUAD THROTTLE LINKAGE KIT INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 24-02-2012

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INSTALLATION 1. This kit contains all the necessary parts to operate Edelbrock carburetors in a progressive or 1: 1 type operation. Figure 1 illustrates typical progressive type installation in which the rear carburetor is the primary carb. This simplifies linkage attachment to the vehicle’s existing throttle linkage. 2. Before attaching anything to the carburetors, loosely assemble the major components of the linkage kit using Figure 1 as a guideline. Note that the longer rod will go to the rear carb with the flat facing down, and the short rod goes to the front carb with the flat facing up. The brass bearing blocks should be positioned so that the set screws will tighten against the flat of the short rod, i.e., both bearing block set screws will be up. Attach the aluminum collar to the long rod between the bearing blocks with the set screw against the flat. 3. Attach the linkage assembly to the carbs with the 10-24 allen head screws and locknuts. Attach to the rear carb using one of the brass 518″ O.D. x 3/16″ I.D. shoulder spacers and the tapered brass anti-rotation shoulder spacer in the top hole of the throttle arm (112″ diameter). Note that the shoulder spacer goes on the inside and the anti-rotation spacer goes on the outside of the throttle arm. Attach to the front carb using the 3/16″ hole just below the large hole in the throttle arm. ADJUSTMENT – NOTE: If carburetors are full of fuel, place rags in the carb throats to absorb the fuel discharged when working the throttle linkage. This will prevent flooding and possible damage to the piston rings upon start-up. Be sure to remove the rags before starting engine. 1. Tighten the set screw and locknut on the rear bearing block, making sure that the bearing block is close to the end of the shaft from the front carburetor. 2. Push the throttle arms of both carbs to WOT (Wide Open Throttle), then adjust the aluminum collar to touch the rear brass bearing block. Securely tighten the set screw and locknut on the aluminum collar. 3. Let both throttle arms return to idle position, then adjust the front brass bearing block to almost touch the aluminum collar. Leave about .020″-.030″ clearance to allow for independent idle speed adjustment of each carburetor. Tighten all set screws, locknuts, and bolts at this time. 4. Check for smooth operation of linkage from idle to WOT and note that the rear carb will open about 20″ before starting to open the front carb. Both carbs should reach WOT at the same time. 5. IMPORTANT: Attach a return spring to both carburetors as shown in Figure 1. Use the return spring brackets supplied, bending as necessary for attachment to your engine. Generally the brackets can be attached to the intake manifold using the existing bolts. Use the longer or shorter spring on either the front or rear carburetor as required for your particular application. Check for smooth operation and positive return to idle. 6. Attach existing throttle linkage to rear carburetor using the 3/16″ hole below the large hole in the throttle arm. It may be necessary to shorten your existing linkage rod or cable, or to use an aftermarket cable mounting plate. BEFORE STARTING ENGINE, DOUBLE-CHECK FOR SMOOTH OPERATION OF LINKAGE FROM IDLE TO WIDE OPEN THROTTLE AND FOR POSITIVE RETURN TO IDLE. OPTIONAL 1:l INSTALLATION If 1:l linkage is desired, assemble and attach linkage kit as above, except that the attachment point to the front carburetor’s throttle arm will be the large 112″ hole using the other two 518″ O.D. x 3/16″ I.D. shoulder spacers (similar to the rear carburetor). Adjust the bearing blocks to eliminate all freeplay, so that all motion to the rear carburetor’s throttle arm is transmitted directly to the front carb’s throttle arm

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HIGH TECH DUAL QUAD THROTTLE LINKAGE KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 02-01-2012

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INSTALLATION 1. This kit contains all the necessary parts to operate Edelbrock carburetors in a progressive or 1: 1 type operation. Figure 1 illustrates typical progressive type installation in which the rear carburetor is the primary carb. This simplifies linkage attachment to the vehicle’s existing throttle linkage. 2. Before attaching anything to the carburetors, loosely assemble the major components of the linkage kit using Figure 1 as a guideline. Note that the longer rod will go to the rear carb with the flat facing down, and the short rod goes to the front carb with the flat facing up. The brass bearing blocks should be positioned so that the set screws will tighten against the flat of the short rod, i.e., both bearing block set screws will be up. Attach the aluminum collar to the long rod between the bearing blocks with the set screw against the flat. 3. Attach the linkage assembly to the carbs with the 10-24 allen head screws and locknuts. Attach to the rear carb using one of the brass 518″ O.D. x 3/16″ I.D. shoulder spacers and the tapered brass anti-rotation shoulder spacer in the top hole of the throttle arm (112″ diameter). Note that the shoulder spacer goes on the inside and the anti-rotation spacer goes on the outside of the throttle arm. Attach to the front carb using the 3/16″ hole just below the large hole in the throttle arm. ADJUSTMENT – NOTE: If carburetors are full of fuel, place rags in the carb throats to absorb the fuel discharged when working the throttle linkage. This will prevent flooding and possible damage to the piston rings upon start-up. Be sure to remove the rags before starting engine. 1. Tighten the set screw and locknut on the rear bearing block, making sure that the bearing block is close to the end of the shaft from the front carburetor. 2. Push the throttle arms of both carbs to WOT (Wide Open Throttle), then adjust the aluminum collar to touch the rear brass bearing block. Securely tighten the set screw and locknut on the aluminum collar. 3. Let both throttle arms return to idle position, then adjust the front brass bearing block to almost touch the aluminum collar. Leave about .020″-.030″ clearance to allow for independent idle speed adjustment of each carburetor. Tighten all set screws, locknuts, and bolts at this time. 4. Check for smooth operation of linkage from idle to WOT and note that the rear carb will open about 20″ before starting to open the front carb. Both carbs should reach WOT at the same time. 5. IMPORTANT: Attach a return spring to both carburetors as shown in Figure 1. Use the return spring brackets supplied, bending as necessary for attachment to your engine. Generally the brackets can be attached to the intake manifold using the existing bolts. Use the longer or shorter spring on either the front or rear carburetor as required for your particular application. Check for smooth operation and positive return to idle. 6. Attach existing throttle linkage to rear carburetor using the 3/16″ hole below the large hole in the throttle arm. It may be necessary to shorten your existing linkage rod or cable, or to use an aftermarket cable mounting plate. BEFORE STARTING ENGINE, DOUBLE-CHECK FOR SMOOTH OPERATION OF LINKAGE FROM IDLE TO WIDE OPEN THROTTLE AND FOR POSITIVE RETURN TO IDLE. OPTIONAL 1:l INSTALLATION If 1:l linkage is desired, assemble and attach linkage kit as above, except that the attachment point to the front carburetor’s throttle arm will be the large 112″ hole using the other two 518″ O.D. x 3/16″ I.D. shoulder spacers (similar to the rear carburetor). Adjust the bearing blocks to eliminate all freeplay, so that all motion to the rear carburetor’s throttle arm is transmitted directly to the front carb’s throttle arm

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2000 Dodge Dakota & Durango Power Windows ADJUSTMENTS

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Filed Under (Dodge Manuals) by admin on 18-06-2012

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ADJUSTMENTS WINDOWS Remove door trim panel. See DOOR TRIM PANEL under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Loosen bolts holding window to regulator. Raise window fully, seating window in frame. Tighten bolts. Install door trim panel. TROUBLE SHOOTING POWER WINDOWS On Dakota, inspect circuit breaker No. 20 (20-amp) in junction block. On Durango inspect circuit breaker No. 21 (25-amp) in junction block. On all models, junction block is located on left end of instrument panel. Inspect fuse No. 9 (40-amp on Dakota, 50-amp on Durango) in Power Distribution Center (PDC). PDC is located in left front corner of engine compartment. Inspect power window system ground circuit. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . SYSTEM TESTS ALL WINDOWS INOPERATIVE Dakota 1. Check circuit breaker for power window system. See TROUBLE SHOOTING . Replace circuit breaker as necessary. If circuit breaker is okay, go to next step. 2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove driver’s front power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 3 (Black wire) at driver power window switch wiring harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Black wire between driver power window 2000 Dodge Durango 2000 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT’ ‘Power Windows – Dakota & Durango 2000 Dodge Durango 2000 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT’ ‘Power Windows – Dakota & Durango switch connector and ground. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . 3. Connect negative battery cable. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 5 (Tan wire) at driver’s power window switch wiring harness connector. If battery voltage is present, check driver power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under COMPONENT TESTS. If battery voltage is not present, repair open Tan wire between driver power window switch connector and ignition switch. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . See POWER DISTRIBUTION article in WIRING DIAGRAMS. Durango 1. Check circuit breaker for power window system. See TROUBLE SHOOTING . Replace circuit breaker as necessary. If circuit breaker is okay, go to next step. 2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove driver’s front power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. 3. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 5 (Black wire) at driver’s power window switch wiring harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Black wire between driver’s power window switch connector and ground. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . 4. Reconnect negative battery cable. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 4 (Tan wire) at driver’s power window switch wiring harness connector. If battery voltage is present, check driver’s power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under COMPONENT TESTS. If battery voltage is not present, repair open Tan wire between driver power window switch connector and ignition switch. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . See POWER DISTRIBUTION article in WIRING DIAGRAMS. ONE WINDOW INOPERATIVE

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EDELBROCK PERFORMER SERIES CARBURETORS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 27-12-2011

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Figure 1 – Fittings and Vacuum Port Locations INSTALLATION PROCEDURE BEFORE REMOVING OLD CARBURETOR 1. Determine if the distributor vacuum port is timed (no vacuum at idle) or full (vacuum present at idle). With the engine at operating temperature and idling, pull the vacuum advance hose off of the carburetor and “feel”for vacuum by putting your finger on the vacuum port (See Fig. 2) . If your distributor has timed vacuum advance, you will hook the vacuum hose from the distributor to the passenger side vacuum port on the new carburetor. If it has full vacuum advance, it will be hooked up to the driver side port. 2. The stock steel fuel line must be converted to fuel resistant rubber hose. The stock steel line will not connect to the Performer Series Carburetor. Use Edelbrock Universal Fuel Line Kit #8135. This kit contains a filter, neoprene hose, and fittings to adapt to 5/16″or 3/8″stock steel fuel lines (See Fig. 3) . NOTE: After cutting the steel line, remove sharp edges and clean out any chips. 3. Always use a new fuel filter. Failure to do so will void your warranty. 4. You must use Edelbrock Adapter #2696 or Adapter & Fuel Line Kit #2697 when installing a Performer Series carburetor on a General Motors Quadrajet or Chrysler Thermoquad intake manifold. #2697 includes adapter #2696 and fuel line kit #8135. Do not use an open adapter! (See Fig. 4) 5. You must use Edelbrock Adapter #2732 when installing a Performer Series carburetor on certain Edelbrock intake manifolds. In those applications, install the adapter as shown (See Fig. 5)

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1984-1998 Jeep Wagoneer/ Commando/ Cherokee Emission Controls Crankcase Ventilation System (PCV/CCV)

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Filed Under (Jeep Manuals) by admin on 01-06-2012

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CCV Fitting See Figures 2 and 3 1. With the engine running, remove the CCV fitting. a. If the fitting is not plugged, a hissing noise will be heard as air passes through the valve. A strong vacuum should also be felt when a finger is placed over the fitting. b. Install the CCV fitting. c. Remove the fresh air hose from the air cleaner assembly and loosely hold a piece of paper over the open end of the hose. After allowing about one minute for the crankcase pressure to reduce, the paper should be sucked against the opening with a noticeable amount of force. 2. Turn the engine OFF . Remove the metered orifice fitting, and check for a plugged condition. A clicking noise should be heard to indicate that the valve mechanism is free. 3. If the crankcase ventilation system meets the tests in Steps 1 and 2 above, no further service is required. If not, the CCV fitting must be cleaned and the system checked again. 4. If Step 1c fails when the CCV fitting is cleaned, it will be necessary to replace the molded vacuum hose with a new one, and to clean the metered orifice port. 5. Clean or replace the engine air cleaner filter element with a new one-for more details, refer to the air cleaner procedure located in General Information & Maintenance. Fig. 2: CCV system diagram for 4.0L engine Fig. 3: CCV system diagram for the 2.5L engine Evaporative Emission Control System OPERATION The evaporative emission control system prevents the release of unburned hydrocarbons, from gasoline or gasoline vapor, into the atmosphere. When pressure in the fuel tank is below 3 psi (20 kPa), the pressure relief/rollover valves open allowing fuel vapors to flow to the evaporative canister where they are absorbed by a charcoal mixture. This prevents excessive pressure buildup in the fuel system. Most canisters are equipped with a calibrated orifice at the inlet to the canister.

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1992 Toyota Cressida Wiring Diagram

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 30-11-2011

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tem Wire ColorPolarity Wire Location 12V white – white/red Positive (+) steering column Starter black/white Positive (+) steering column Starter 2 none Ignition black/yellow Positive (+) steering column 2nd Ignition black/red Positive (+) steering column 3rd Ignition none Accessory blue/red Positive (+) steering column Accessory 2 none Tachometer black/yellow check conn(ig-) Power Door (Lock) Wiring Diagram for [ Negative (-) ] Door Lock green/red Negative (-) pass kick or theft ecu Power Door (Unlock) Wiring Diagram for [ Negative (-) ] Door Unlock green/whiteNegative (-) pass kick or theft ecu Door Trigger red/white Negative (-) theft ecu[1] Dome Supervision Wiring Diagram for [ none ] Dome none none none Headlights red/yellow Negative (-) steering column Parklight Positive green Positive (+) dimmer controll or dkp Parklight Negative green/whiteNegative (-) steering column Wipers blue/black Positive (+) steering column Left Front Window (Up/Down) grn/wht – red/blu in drivers door Right Front Window (Up/Down) pnk/blk – pnk in drivers door or dkp Left Rear Window (Up/Down) red – red-yel A in drivers door or dkp Right Rear Window (Up/Down) grn/blk – red/blk A in drivers door or dkp Trunk/Hatch Pin red/white Negative (-) at light, or theft ecu Hood Pin tied with doors Trunk/Hatch Release Wiring Diagram for [] Trunk/Hatch none Factory Alarm (Arm) arms with lock Factory Alarm (Disarm) disarms with unlock Horn white/red Negative (-) st.column or theft ecu Brake green/black Positive (+) brake switch Door Motor (Lock) none none none Door Motor (Unlock) none none none

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1984-1995 Honda Accord/Prelude In­Tank Fuel Pumps TEST/REPAIR MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda Manuals) by admin on 03-07-2012

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Carbureted Fuel System GENERAL INFORMATION On these vehicles, the engine management system is considered part of the emission control system. The major components include the carburetor(s), feedback control system, the air injection system, a throttle control system and the EGR system. The system consists of sensors and switches that feed information to the Electronic Control Unit (ECU), which will then operate several solenoid valves to maintain the ideal air/fuel ratio under all conditions. As useful as the tests found in this section are, the first step in repair or service to engine management systems is still to gain as much information as possible about the problem; when and under what conditions it occurs. At highway speed? At idle only? Only under heavy load or hard acceleration? Wet weather? Defining the problem will eliminate many systems from consideration and possibly point to the affected system. Before diving into an extended electrical diagnosis, take the time to review the basics. Check every vacuum line for cracks or leaks. Check every electrical connector for corrosion or loose pins. Quite often, simply unplugging and reconnecting a connector will break up corrosion on the pins and restore the circuit. Watch out for poor grounds, particularly if the car has experienced major bodywork. COMPONENT TESTING Air Injection System The purpose of this system is to supply oxygen to the exhaust stream at a point in the exhaust manifold that is hot enough to burn off some of the hydrocarbon emissions. The main component is an air suction valve. The valve is spring loaded to stay closed, with engine vacuum supplied to a diaphragm that reduces the spring pressure and allows the reeds to open. The ECU regulates the engine vacuum to the diaphragm by operating a solenoid valve. 1. With the engine at normal operating temperature and at idle, remove the air cleaner and listen for a bubbling sound at the air suction port. There should be no sound at idle, meaning the air suction valve is closed. 2. If the noise is heard at the air suction port, disconnect the vacuum hose at the air suction valve and connect a vacuum gauge to the hose. There should be no vacuum. If there is vacuum and the noise stops, the problem is in the control system. If there is no vacuum and the bubbling sound is still there, the air suction valve is defective and must be replaced. 3. To test the valve, draw a vacuum at the air suction valve diaphragm and listen for a bubbling sound at the air suction port. If no sound is heard, the air suction valve or diaphragm is faulty. Throttle Control System

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Steering, Brake And Suspension Specialists Proportioning Valve Diagram

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 01-10-2011

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This diagram is the most common way to plumb a proportioning valve. In some cases, the right front line will be plugged off at the proportioning valve and the left front line will go to a “T” fitting. From the “T” fitting, the front lines then split off and go to the left and right wheels. Our proportioning valve has a warning light switch built in (this is not a stop light switch.) The warning light will detect any loss of pressure, for example, a leaky wheel cylinder. We recommend you wire this light into your system. Any two wire light socket will work. One wire goes to the accessory power and the other goes to the warning light. Our proportioning valves provide four functions: 1. Proportion pressure front and rear 2. 10 psi. residual check valve 3. Metering valve to apply pressure to the rear brakes before the front brakes 4. A brake warning light to detect a loss in pressure Proportioning Valve Plumbing Diagram: There are two proportioning valve lines that connect to the master cylinder provided in our kits. The first is a 90 degree bend with one leg longer than the other. This line must be oriented with the long leg connected into the front top hole of the proportioning valve and the short end in the front hole on the master cylinder. The second line has two 90 degree bends and has color coded fittings. The larger blue fitting goes into the back hole on the master cylinder and the smaller gold fitting goes into the back top hole on the proportion valve as shown in the diagram

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1999 – Current Toyota Tundra Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 03-03-2012

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Step 1: Bedliner Modification Note: If the truck is equipped with a plastic drop-in bedliner, some alteration will be necessary. Ifno bedliner is present, proceed to Step 2. A. The dotted lines in Diagram 1 depict the more common under-the-rail liner modifications. A. 1. Using a jig saw with a medium tooth blade, remove the bulkhead portion of the liner as indicated. A. 2. Be sure to trim the bedliner’s plastic tailgate panel as shown. B. The dotted lines in Diagram 2 depict the less common over-the-rail liner modifications. A. 1. Using a jig saw with a medium tooth blade, remove the top cap and bulkhead portions of the liner as indicated. A. 2. If a rear notch is necessary, placethe tracks on their respective bedrails and mark the positions of the most rearward clamps prior to removing the liner. (The correct position of the track is with the black plastic track end-cap touching the inside surface of the tailgate.) A. 3. When the modification is complete, push the wall of the liner under the bedrail. A. 4. Be sure to trim the bedliner’s plastic tailgate panel as shown Step 2: Shim the OE Bedrail Caps (units 546 & 565) A. Remove the plastic bedrail caps, starting at the tailgate and lifting slowly (Photo 3) . Allow each snap to release as you proceed, being careful not to overstress the rail cap. B. Place the correct stick-on shim pads at the locations shown in Diagram 4. Note: The measurements shown in the graph below are taken beginning from the bulkhead end of the bedrail cap down-flange. Be sure to center the shims at each location and place them agains the down flange as shown in Diagram 5 . Product Code ABCD 546 (all 1/4″ shims) 16″ 37″ 49″ 61″ 1 / 8 ” shim @1/ 4 ” shim @3/ 8 ” shim @1/ 2 ” shim @ 565 18 1/ 2 “37 1/ 2 ” 49″ 60″ C. With

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