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fj bumpers road armor install

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2003-2007 Dodge (DR/DH/D1/DC) Ram Truck Front EndShimmy On 4×4 Vehicles When Traveling Over Rough Surfaces In The Road

REPAIR PROCEDURE: 1. Raise the vehicle on an alignment rack (drive-on lift). 2. Verify the road tires are correctly sized and the tire tread is not excessively worn. Replace any worn tire before proceeding. Any new or old replacement tire should be equal to the original tires that came with the vehicle when it was new. Tire wear is not covered by the vehicle warranty. 3. Set the tire pressure for the FRONT TIRES to the following specification, regardless of the load being carried by the vehicle . Tire Size FRONT Tire Pressure LT235/80R17EorLT245/70R17E 448 Kpa (65 psi) LT265/70R17EorLT285/70R17E 414 Kpa (60 psi) 4. Set the tire pressure for the REAR TIRES as recommended for the vehicle configuration and load that is being carried at the time. Tire Size REAR Tire Pressure LT235/80R17EorLT245/70R17E Refer to the Tire Inflation Chart brochure in the Owners Manual or to the placards located either on the face of the driver’sdoor or on the driver’sside”B”pillar. LT265/70R17EorLT285/70R17E Refer to the Tire Inflation Chart brochure in the Owners Manual or to the placards located either on the face of the driver’sdoor or on the driver’sside”B”pillar. 5. Verify that the steering damper is operating correctly. a. Unbolt the end of the damper at the axle end. b. Cycle the damper rod by hand. c. There should be resistance to motion in both directions of the damper rod. d. Replace the damper if no resistance is present. 6. Verify both outer tie rod ends dustcovers are not worn. a. Attempt to rotate the dustcover by hand. b. If the dustcover on an outer tie rod end can be rotated, or is free and loose, then replace the tie rod (regardless of joint wear). 7. Inspect each outer tie rod end for internal wear. a. Maximum allowed wear (joint travel) fora tie rod end is 1.15 mm (0.045 in.). b. Install a dial indicator to the tie rod end (in-line with the vertical stud of the tie rod end). c. With a pry bar placed between the steering linkage and the axle tube, pry upwards while measuring the amount of joint travel (wear). d. Measure the amount of wear in the other outer tie rod end joint. e. If wear (joint travel) in either outer tie rod end is greater than 1.15 mm (0.045 in.), then replace the worn tie rod end. 8. Verify the torque on each outer tie rod end stud nut. The nut should be tightened to 122 Nm (90 ft. lbs.). 9. Make sure any worn outer tie rod ends have been replaced before proceeding further. 10. Verify all other steering linkage connections are tightened to their torque specifications.


Front Bumper Installation – TOYOTA FJ CRUISER Step 1 Very Important Before beginning installation, assure that vehicle has been pulled forward into work-area with the wheels straight and that the ground is level. The clearances around the FJ bumper are critical to proper installation and fitment. Moving vehicle with wheels turned causes slight frame twist preventing ease of removal of OE bumper and installation of new bumper without issue. Make sure you have plenty of room to work around front of vehicle. Open the hood at this time, you will need to see down through the inner-body core-support while removing your OE bumper and installing your Body Armor FJ Bumper. Step 2 a. Unpack bumper using staple puller to remove staples. Save all packing materials and take care not to tear cartons. b. Remove hardware and Check parts/hardware list to confirm all parts and necessary hardware are included. c. It’s a good idea to spray all OE attaching hardware at this time with penetrating oil before beginning removal of OE bumper. This will ease removal as well as to help assure that none of the bolts’ / nuts’ threads are damaged during removal. Use extra caution when working with the bumper mounting studs & nuts. Step 3Prep bumper for install: You may install your auxilary lights in the light pockets. The light tab is slotted to allow for adjustment for adjustment for light grilles. You may also attach a second set of lights on the top deck . Also attach the grill guard at this time. Step 4 a. Begin removing OE bumper following instructions and photos on the following page for detailed descriptions and references. When done, proceed to Step 4 here. Step 5 a. If equipped, remove OE chassis skid plate and set aside for install after new bumper is installed. Save OE hardware to re-install the skid plate once new bumper is installed (3 upper bolts and 2 lower bolts, lowers have spacers between frame & skid plate). b. Remove the (3) outer hold-down hex nuts holding bumper to frame-caps on both passenger and driver sides. Un-clip the outer ends of the bumper from the outer bumper support clips (see Photo 5 on following page) by pulling bumper fascia down and out of clip on driver and passenger sides. Next, while a helper holds the bumper in place, loosen and remove the inner hold-down hex nuts on both passenger and driver sides. Reference Photo 1 on the last page for stud locations. The bumper should now slide off the front of the locating / mounting studs in the frame-caps. Remove slowly prevent paint damage. Save hold-down nuts. c. Remove the outer bumper support clips from both driver and passenger sides (see Photo 5 on following page) Step 6 a. If you bought a winch, skip to Step 6b. If you did not purchase a winch, you can mount the winch cover plate / lower bumper fascia, and fairlead slot cover plate to the bumper now, using (6) 3/8″ x 1″ bolts with (2) flat washers, (1) lock washer, and (1) hex nut on each bolt. See photos 4 & 5 on the last page for reference. b. If you purchased a winch for your FJ, now is the time to mount it in the bumper. The winch will bolt down using the fairlead mounting bracket and 10mm bolts to secure winch & fairlead bracket to bumper. The roller fairlead bolts to the fairlead bracket using the 1/2″ hex nuts supplied. See photo 3 on the last page for reference. Be sure to mount with the correct side of winch to passenger side for solenoid pack installation / clearance. Once the winch is bolted in, you can mount the winch cover plate / lower bumper fascia to the bottom of the bumper using (4) of the 3/8″ x 1″ bolts with (2) flat washers, (1) lock washer and (1) hex nut on each bolt. If you purchased lights, mount them to the light tabs. It the lights have a protective grille you should be able. to use the cover. Important: Follow winch mfr’s directions for cable to winch / solenoid / battery connections. Use caution to assure clearance of any and all bumper / winch / mounting surfaces at all cable end connections. Coil cables and lay in winch mount plate to protect against damage while installing bumper onto vehicle. Place coiled cables in winch mount plate to assure no interference with the radiator, a/c line and / or inner body core support during bumper installation. Cables to be run in Step 7. Step 7 Along with your helper, one person on each side, guide your Body Armor FJ Bumper onto the the frame-cap mounting studs. Use caution guiding the bumper on slowly and evenly to prevent paint damage. Locating / mounting studs and bumper mounting plates can be seen down through inner-body core support while guiding bumper into place. Make sure the bumper does not contact grill or fascia while installing bumper as this can cause paint damage. While you or your helper hold the bumper in place, thread the OE hold-down nuts onto mounting studs to hold the bumper in place, hand tighten at this time. Step 8 Confirm bumper is even side-to-side, torque hold-down nuts to 80 ft.lbs. Again confirm bumper is even and there are no clearance issues between the bumper and any part of the body and / or inner-body core-support. You can now run the winch cables through the inner-body core support to the battery. If you purchased a set of lights to be used with your bumper, you can now wire them up, please follow the detailed light manufacturer instructions. **Body Armor is not responsible for any issues with respect to the wiring, operation or warranties to the lights Step 9 a. Fit the wheel well inner-liner end-caps to the bottom of the bumper at each corner and bolt up with supplied 1/4″ x .75″ phillips- head machine screws, (2) each side, into drilled / threaded holes in bottom corners of bumper. See photos 6 & 7 on the last page. b. Next, using the OE hardware and spacers, re-install your chassis skidplate, making sure it’s straight before tightening. c. Using the (2) remaining 1/4″ x .75″ phillips-head machine screws, mount your license plate to threaded holes in the bumper face. d. Re-install the grill by snapping onto clips and using the OE push-pins and screws to hold down in OE locations. ** trimming off the front inner fender is a customer option, it is not required. We recommend you check the torque of all bolts after about two weeks, and after every off-road / trail run thereafter to assure tightness


This article supersedes TSB 07-5-7 to update the NOTE Parts. SETTING TIRE PRESSURE TO DOOR SPECIFICATION IS ONE OF THE SINGLE MOST ISSUE IMPORTANT MEASURES IN RESOLVING THIS Some 2005-2007 F-Super Duty vehicles may exhibit ISSUE. LOWERING TIRE PRESSURE WILL MAKE steering wheel oscillation (back and forth motion), THIS ISSUE WORSE. immediately following front or rear wheel impacts ROAD TEST (i.e. pavement joints, frost heaves, rough roads, etc.). Steering wheel motion is typically in the range 1. Ask customer what type of road surface and of ± 5 degrees, and typically dampens out in fewer speed generates the steering wheel oscillation. than five oscillations. This condition occurs mostly on F-250/F-350 4X4 vehicles, and is more evident 2. Road test vehicle on similar road surface and on trucks equipped with a gas engine. speed, to gain a feel for the customer’s issue. ACTION 3. If no issues are identified during the road test, do not proceed with the rest of this TSB. Refer to the following Service Procedure to minimize the steering wheel oscillations on impacts, STEERING DAMPER however, there may be some remaining minor INSPECTION/REPLACEMENT AND oscillation which would be considered normal. STEERING/SUSPENSION FASTENER TORQUE CHECK SERVICE PROCEDURE SUMMARY F-250/F-350 4X4 Applications: 1. Set tire pressure and road test vehicle to evaluate vehicle before proceeding with further 1. Remove existing steering damper and frame repairs. If issue is resolved, do not proceed attachment bracket. with the rest of this TSB. 2. Replace steering damper and frame mounting 2. If concern still exists, install a new steering bracket with steering damper and frame damper (frame-mounted bracket and steering bracket. damper assembly on F-250/F-350 4X4 applications only). For F-250/F-350 4X2 and all 3. Attach steering damper to frame bracket and F-450/F-550 applications, inspect damper for torque bolt to 76 lb-ft (103 N•m). leaks and replace if necessary, torque steering 4. Assemble bracket and shock assembly to the and suspension fasteners per Workshop frame with attachment bolt retainer pointing to Manual (WSM). rear of vehicle. Torque frame bracket nuts to 59 3. If concern still exists, check front alignment and lb-ft (80 N•m). reduce front caster. 5. Attach other end of shock to the steering drag 4. Replace redundant control steering wheel (if link and torque to 66 lb-ft (90 N•m). equipped and vehicle built prior to 10/8/2004). 6. Install damper bolt cap to assure a friendly VEHICLE INSPECTION – TIRE PRESSURE surface for the battery cable in case of casual contact. 1. Set tire pressures as indicated on the vehicle label (located on driver’s door label).

Battery Electrical Drain/ Parasitic Load Test Repair Manual

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable 2. Install the male end of the J 38758 to the negative battery terminal. 3. Turn OFF the test switch. 4. Install the negative battery cable to the female end of the test switch. 5. Install the Scan Tool (or equivalent) or wait for 20 minutes. 6. Turn ON the test switch. 7. Road test the vehicle while activating all accessories, including the radio and the air conditioning. 8. Lower the door glass, then exit the vehicle. Do not move the door handle after closing the door. 9. Open the hood. Important The power down timer will reset to 20 minutes if any wake up inputs are received by a Class 2 device (after the scan tool has put all Class 2 devices to sleep). 10. Put all of the Class 2 devices into the sleep mode. 11. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Remove the key. Important From this point on, electrical continuity must be maintained in the ground circuit of the battery through the Test Switch J 38758 in the ON position or through the ammeter J 39200 . 12. Components such as PCM, VCM, Automatic Air Conditioning, and the Truck Body Control Module have timers that draw several amps of current while they cycle down. This can give a false parasitic drain reading. Wait 20 minutes for these components to power down before continuing this test (or use the scan tool to put all Class 2 devices to sleep). 13. Connect a jumper wire with a 10 A fuse J 36169-A to the terminals of the test switch. 14. Turn the test switch to the OFF position. 15. Wait ten seconds. If the fuse does not blow, the current is less than 10 A. The ammeter can be used safely. 16. Before the fused jumper wire is removed, turn the test switch to the ON position. Important If an ammeter other than the J 39200 is used, ensure that the vehicle does not have a high current drain that would damage the ammeter when connected to the circuit. 17. Perform the following procedure in order to detect a high current drain: A. Set the ammeter J 39200 to the 10 A scale. B. Connect the ammeter to the test switch terminals. C. Turn OFF the test switch. This allows the current to flow through the ammeter. D. Wait one minute, then inspect the current reading. Ñ When there is a current reading of 2 A or less, turn ON the test switch, this maintains continuity in the electrical system. Ñ Then, switch the meter down to the 2 A scale, for a more accurate reading, when the test switch is reopened. E. Open the test switch. F. Take the reading in milliamps. G. Note the battery reserve capacity. Refer to Battery Usage . Ñ Divide this number by 4. Example: 90/4 = 22.5 Ñ Compare this to the ammeter reading. Ñ The current drain in milliamps should not exceed this number. Ñ Example: if a battery has a reserve capacity of 90 minutes, the current drain should not exceed 22 milliamps. H. When the current draw is too high, remove the electrical system fuses one at a time until the draw returns to a value less than or equal to specifications. Ñ Start with the fuses that are hot all the time. Ñ To remove the fuse, you must first open the door, which causes a high enough current flow to damage the ammeter. Ñ Protect the ammeter, without disturbing the electrical continuity, by turning ON the test tool before opening the door. Ñ Remove the courtesy lamp fuse. Ñ Note the ammeter reading. Ñ If the parasitic load is still excessive, start removing the remaining fuses one at a time. Ñ Keep the courtesy lamp fuse out during diagnosis, so the door can remain open. Ñ Perform Steps 11 through 13 each time a fuse is removed. I. Removing the PCM or VCM fuse should cause a drop of less than 10 milliamps. A drop greater than 10 milliamps indicates a possible short to ground. J. Check the orange wires along with the components connected to the orange wires. No drop in the milliampere reading indicates the PCM or VCM is not drawing current. K. Repeat the parasitic current drain test procedure after any repair has been completed. L. When the cause of the excessive current draw has been located and repaired, remove the ammeter and the parasitic draw test switch.


1. Find a suitable road crossing to position the vehicle on rail. If necessary set up cautionary devices to ensure safety. 2. Position the vehicle with the road wheel tires on the rails, and the rail wheel flanges positioned centrally above the railhead. Backing into position is usually easier. 3. Put the vehicle’s transmission into park or neutral. Set the parking brake. 4. Engage the PTO hydraulic pump or start the auxiliary hydraulic power source. 5. The rear will be placed on rail first. a. Raise the rail gear up a bit to relieve the pressure on the lock hook. b. Pull the T-handle for the lock to swing the hook out of the way. c. Lower the rail gear into position on the rail. d. Release the T-handle for the lock. 6. Check the alignment of the front rail wheels with the track – it might be necessary to adjust the position of the vehicle. 7. The front rail gear will now be lowered. a. Raise the rail gear up a bit to relieve the pressure on the pin lock. b. Remove the both pins from the upper holes. c. Lower the rail gear. d. Install the lock pins in the lower holes. 8. Engage the steering lock. 9. Drive the vehicle forward and backward a few yards to check vehicle’s operation and brakes. 10. Vehicle is now ready for rail travel. Removal of Vehicle from Rail 1. Find a suitable road crossing to remove the vehicle from the rail. 2. Put the vehicle’s transmission into park or neutral. Set the parking brake. 3. Engage the PTO hydraulic pump or start the auxiliary hydraulic power source. 4. The front will be raised first. a. Bump the rail gear down a bit to relieve the pressure on the lock pins. b. Remove both pins from the lower holes. c. Raise the rail gear into the road position. d. Insert the lock pins into the upper locking holes. 5. The rear will now be raised. a. Raise the rail gear b. The hook lock will automatically swing out of the way of the raising rail gear and swing into locking position. 6. Disengage the PTO hydraulic pump or auxiliary hydraulic power source. 7. Disengage the steering lock. 8. The vehicle is now ready to be driven on the road.