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FORD HIGH PRESSURE SYSTEM DIAGNOSTICS REPAIR MANUAL

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SERVICE PROCEDURE IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE HIGH PRESSURE PUMP WHEN REPLACING THE A minimum of 3.5 MPa (500 psi or 0.8 volts) ICP is QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS. required before the injectors are enabled. No or low oil in the system, leakage at the injector upper 4. If a leak is identified in the branch tube, use D-rings, high pressure pump quick connect fitting, the following procedure to replace the branch high pressure pump discharge tube, faulty injection tube if the vehicle your working on is a F-Super pressure regulator (IPR), high pressure pump, or Duty or Excursion. For E-Series, the engine branch tube could cause low ICP pressure. needs to be removed to replace the branch tube. When replacing the branch tube, also 1. Perform the revised Powertrain Controls / install the STC bracket kit. Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) lead diagnostics Section 4, Hard Start / No Start Diagnostic BRANCH TUBE REPLACEMENT FOR F-SUPER Procedure Tests 10e and 10f. These tests were DUTY AND EXCURSION VEHICLES ONLY revised in January 2006. 1. Remove the transmission. See the appropriate NOTE model year Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 307-01. THE LOW PRESSURE OIL SYSTEM MUST BE WORKING PROPERLY IN ORDER FOR THE HIGH NOTE PRESSURE OIL SYSTEM TO BUILD ICP LEAVE THE FLYWHEEL ON THE ENGINE, AS IT PRESSURE. THIS INCLUDES ADEQUATE WILL MAKE IT EASIER TO TURN THE ENGINE PRESSURE AND GOOD QUALITY PROPERLY OVER TO TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC) AND THE MAINTAINED OIL. TRANSMISSION FLUID DOES NOT NEED TO BE NOTE DRAINED. THIS TSB ONLY APPLIES TO REPLACEMENT OF 2. Set engine at TDC both cylinder number 1 ANY COMPONENT FOUND DEFECTIVE WHILE rocker arms should be loose. See rocker arm PERFORMING PC/ED HARD START / NO START removal procedure in the appropriate online TESTS 10e AND 10f. WSM, Section 303-01C

2007-2008 Toyota Tundra Crew Cab Installation Manual

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1. Cover the front seats, floorboards, dash and steering wheel with a clean drop cloth or disposable plastic covers. Note: Always wear eye and hand protection when working with glass. Make sure that you have the right glass and the urethane systems are current. Windshield part numbers are FW02724, FW02723, FW02722 or FW02721. 2. Remove the rearview mirror by loosening the Tork screw using a T-20 Tork screwdriver. Slide the wire-harness trim cover off the headliner. Slide the mirror off the mirror bracket in an upward motion. 3. Disconnect the wire harness from the underside of the hardware with a small flat-tip screwdriver or your fingernails. 4. Remove the windshield-wiper nuts using a wrench or socket. If the nuts are tight, loosen them with a 14-millimeter wrench and then come back with your socket. Move the wiper arm in an up-and-down motion to break it loose from the post, or use a wiper puller. Caution: Wipers can sometimes be hard to remove. To avoid stressing the post, use a wiper puller. The wipers are marked; take note to ensure proper re-installation. 5. Using a No. 2 Phillips-tip screwdriver, remove the two plastic screw inserts on the fasteners located on the outer edge of the cowling corners. There is one on the passenger’s side and one on the driver’s side. A5a A5b 2007-08 Toyota Tundra Crew Cab By Gilbert R. Gutierrez Vehicle type: Four-door, crew-cab pickup truck NAGS numbers*: Windshield part numbers are FW02724, FW02723, FW02722 or FW02721; front door glass FD23323- 24 R-L; rear door glass FD23325-26 R-L; and back glass FY95054, FY95053, FB23336, FB23335 and FB23334. Helpful tools or supplies: Retention tape or a rubber hose to protect the fenders and hood; a PryBaby for molding and panel removal. Watch for: Be careful not to pull too hard on the rearview mirror harness during removal to avoid ripping the headliner. When removing or re-installing the A-pillar trim panels, take care to avoid disturbing the curtain air-bag harness. *With permission from National Auto Glass Specifications. Call NAGS at 800/551-4012 or visit www.nags.com. Vehicle information A1 A2 A3a A3b A4a A4b 35 6. Remove the rubber corner pieces from the corners of the cowling at the base of the windshield. Using an outward motion, pull out the rubber piece, and then gently pull the rubber insert from the cowling. 7. With the hood open, push in and pop loose the six plastic tab fasteners using a No. 1 PryBaby tool from the underside. There are three on the passenger’s side and three on the driver’s side, with a guide pin at the center. 8. Remove the two-part cowl by sliding it in an upward-outward motion toward the engine compartment, disengaging the eight underside tabs on the front part of the cowling from the base of the windshield. Tape the hood and fender with molding-retention tape to avoid gnarling or scratching the cowling. Note: When re-installing the cowling, use a No. 1 PryBaby tool to assist in the installation of the cowling onto the bottom of the windshield. 9. If using a cold knife or power tool to cut out the glass, remove the A-pillar trim panels, as the windshield fits close to the pinchweld. 10. Remove the door weatherstrip. 11. Remove the screw covers using a No. 2 PryBaby. 12. Remove the two 10-millimeter bolts hidden beneath the covers using a 10-millimeter socket-wrench driver. Pull the handle loose. 13. Remove the A-pillar trim panels using a door-panel remover or No. 2 PryBaby tool. Caution: Be careful not to dis- A6a A6b A6c A7a A11a A11b A12a A12b A7b A7c A8 A10 A13a A13b 36 AutoGlass™ •March/April 2008 Installation ? F or T echnicians Only turb the curtain air-bag harness when removing or re-installing the A-pillar trim panels. Note: Before beginning windshield removal, verify the new windshield is the correct one and the urethanes and primers are current. Never use outdated products as this could jeopardize the structural integrity of the vehicle and the safety of its passengers. Removal 14. Make sure cutting blades are sufficiently sharp. 15. Before cutting out the windshield, remove contaminants from the glass and pinchweld to prevent contact with the urethane. 16. If using a cold knife, use a 3? 4 -inch blade. Cut three sides; then use a long knife or power tool to cut the bottom of the windshield. Note: There are no gravity stops on this windshield. 17. If trying to save the windshield, use an Equalizer with an 8-inch blade. Note: When using any power tool, lubricate the cutting area with water. Spray the top and sides; then make your cuts. 18. After cutting the sides and top, cut out the bottom portion of the glass using an Equalizer Express. Spray the bottom of the windshield with water at least 4-to-5 inches above the urethane on the glass, so the water flows down into the urethane while you make your final cut across the bottom of the windshield. Caution: Never use your head to push, as this could result in back and neck injuries. 19. Take the windshield out of the opening using a set of vacuum cups. Lift the glass and place it on a windshield stand or suitable workstation. Installation 20. After cutting the windshield out, remove contaminants such as dirt, moisture and other debris from the pinchweld. Clean the dashboard. 21. Dry fit the new glass to the opening. Mark your glass using a grease pencil or molding-retention tape. 22. Place your vacuum cups on the windshield in the appropriate location for a one-person set. 23. For driver-side setting of the windshield using a Glass Handler Kit, place the kit’s elbow-setting pad on the driver’s side of the hood area; then lift the windshield from the stand using the vacuum cups. 24. Reach over, place your elbow on the setting pad and set the windshield onto the old urethane. 25. With the windshield resting in the opening, make sure it is in the right spot. 26. Adjust both sides to the correct setting, marking the passenger’s side, then the driver’s side. Lift the glass and place it on a windshield stand or suitable workstation. 27. Follow the urethane manufacturer’s recommendations for installation. 28. Clean the inside of the windshield using a urethane manufacturer-recommended product; follow recommended steps. Note: Do not touch the bonding area of the windshield after cleaning, prepping or priming it. 29. Wear powder-free Nitrile gloves to keep off chemicals. 30. Apply the glass prep and primer, following the urethane manufacturer’s recommendations.

EGO DASH TS Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit Installation Guide

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EGOCorp USA 8820 Kenamar Drive, Ste. 506 San Diego, CA 92121 Page 1 ofon should 2 Version 1.3 Phone +1 (858) 566-2159 Fax +1 (858) 566-2179 www.egocorpusa.com EGO DASH TS Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit Installation Guide WARNING: We recommend disconnecting the vehicles battery prior to the installation. The installatibe only performed by professional installers. Improper installation may void the vehicles and EGO DASH TS warranty. EGO DASH TS Installation Steps 1. Remove head unit (Consult with owner’s and shop manual) 2. Disconnect factory wiring harness from head unit 3. Connect EGO DASH TS Wiring Harness to the head unit Wiring Harness A Locate
amplifier (Most Lexus ? behind glove box; Toyota Land Cruiser ? under drivers or passengers seat). Connect male and female 16-pin connectors between amplifier and the vehicle’s wiring harness. Connect Yellow Mute wire: Lexus ? pin 7 on the 18-pin connector; Land Cruiser ? pin 3 on the 25-pin connector (amplifier). Connect Blue Ignition wire (male bullet connector): Lexus ? pin 16 on the 16-pin connector (female bullet connector); Land Cruiser ? pin 20 on the 25-pin connector (amplifier). Wiring Harness B The normal location of the mute is pin 4 (x) on the 6-pin connector. However, on some rare factory head units, the mute pin might be pin 5. The mute pin on the head unit should show ~ 5 volts when the head unit is turned on. Wiring Harness C Connect the male and female ISO connectors, if they are not already connected. Splice the gray wires (only!) into the loudspeaker wiring, going from the amplifier to the center or door loudspeaker. The 2 female bullet connectors go to the loudspeaker. The 2 male bullet connectors go to the amplifier. The 4 white wires are not used! Connect the yellow mute (“Mute Signal”) cable (male bullet connector) on the ISO Harness coming from the EGO DASH TS brain to “Mute 2″ (white cable – female bullet connector), if not already connected. Wiring Harness D Please contact EGO Technical Support at (858) 566-2170 (9AM-5PM PST) or support@egohandsfree.com . 4. Connect EGO DASH TS Wiring Harness to the vehicle’s wiring harness (One or more of the connectors might be not used, depending on the vehicle’s configuration) 5. Connect the EGO DASH TS Wiring Harness to the EGO DASH TS control box (16pin Molex) 6. Install the EGO DASH TS switch insert into the desired location (knockout) 7. Connect the EGO DASH TS switch with the EGO DASH TS box (Use the included extension cable if necessary) 8. Install the EGO Microphone into the desired location (e.g. the rear view mirror. DO NOT install the microphone on or near vehicles’ safety systems, like the airbag) 9. Test the EGO DASH TS: a. Reconnect the battery and turn on the ignition of the vehicle b. Pair a Bluetooth mobile phone with the EGO DASH TS (Pin code: “0000″) c. Turn on the head unit and select a radio station; Make sure you can hear the radio through the cars’ speakers; Adjust audio volume if necessary

How To Build a High Performance Cummins Diesel

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CEO/ Diesel Injection of Pittsburgh Keep in mind while reading this document that it is a gathering of all the articles Bruce has written over the last ten years. There may be some old prices discussed so, to get the latest pricing, check the main page. If you have any questions feel free to call us at 724-274-4080 and we can discuss your horsepower needs. Please have your CPL#. If you are looking for upgrades for your Electronic Celect/Celect Plus Cummins engine visit our Pittsburgh Power site at Pittsburghpower.com. HOW TO BUILD A HIGH-PERFORMANCE CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE This is a very controversial subject and 99% of the mechanics who build diesel engines will disagree with what we have to say and will probably refuse to build the engine for you. For the owner-operator who loves horsepower do not give up when you speak to the negative mechanic. There are a few good shops throughout the states that will build the ultimate performance engine. Or you can build it yourself as long as you have mechanical knowledge and tools. BUILDING THE ENGINE: In order to have the engine live with high horsepower and run efficiently you must have the right combination of compression ratio, fuel, air and timing. Please do not try to get extreme power simply by increasing the fuel pressure on a stock engine. You will obtain some horsepower, however your compression ratio, air and timing will be wrong. The best time to obtain horsepower is during a rebuild. Since you are going to buy new parts anyway you might as well buy the right combination that produces horsepower and generally the price of the high performance parts is the same as the stock parts. NOW TO THE NUTS AND BOLTS : The compression ratio of the pistons and the timing must go together. High compression pistons belong only in gasoline engines that are naturally aspirated. Turbocharged diesel engines must have low compression pistons in order to produce high horsepower. The lower the compression ratio the less wear on rod bearings and the lower the internal pressure will be when the injector fires. High internal pressure is very detrimental to the life of a piston. When you see a piston with a hole burned through, it’s not the fault of the injector it is a result of internal pressure. To control the pressure we lower the compression ratio and retard the timing. If you compare the compression ratio and timing of an NTC 290 versus an NTC 400 you will see the difference. Where do you think we have to be on the timing to produce 700 horsepower from an NTC?

TJ/ XJ/ ZJ Front Installation Instructions

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1. Remove track bar bolt on passenger side of vehicle on the axle. Retain hardware for later use. See Picture 1 Picture 1 Picture 2 2. Block rear tires and raise the front of the vehicle, support by the frame using jack stands. 3. Remove front wheels and tires, support front axle with a floor jack. See Picture 2 4. Disconnect lower shock mounts. 5. Disconnect sway bar end links. Be careful not to break the links! Use penetrating oil on rusty bolts. Remove bottom hardware if it is easier. Newer model Wranglers and Grand Cherokees require the side of the sway bar to be struck with a hammer to free the end links. See Pictures 3 & 4. Picture 3 Picture 4 6. Remove spring clamps if vehicle is equipped with them 7. Carefully lower the jack supporting the axle. Be careful not to overextend the brake lines and ABS lines on newer models. 8. Remove coil springs and bump stops on Wranglers and Grand Cherokees. On Cherokees the bump stop and cup are one piece, and can be removed by turning the cup, using channel lock pliers. Other models the shaft and the bump stop are small enough to simply slide the spacer over. See Pictures 5 & 6. Picture 5 Picture 6 9. Remove the Bump stop cup. See Picture 7 10. Install front lift spacers. A rubber mallet can be used to ease installation. If installing 2″ spacer leave in factory isolator, if installing 3″ spacer remove the factory isolator. See Picture 8 Picture 7 Picture 8 11. Reinstall bump stop cups and rubber bump stops. See Picture 9 Picture 9 Picture 10 12. Reinstall coil springs in the same location as removed, and make sure springs are in the lower saddles properly. (A spring compressor can ease this process but is not required.) See Picture 10 13. Raise the axle and reconnect the sway bar end links and lower shock mounts. 14. Install wheels and tires and lower vehicle onto the ground. 15. Reconnect the track bar. This can be tricky and requires two people. Have a friend turn the steering wheel slowly, while you align the axle holes with the track bar holes and tighten. 16. Get your vehicle aligned and enjoy your Fat Bob’s Garage lift!