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freelander 2 problems dtc 0725

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2002 Land Rover Freelander (LN) V6-2.5L Automatic Transmission/Transaxle Service and Repair Manual

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Automatic Transmission/Transaxle: Service and Repair Gearbox – KV6 – NAS Models JATCO Gearbox – KV6 – NAS models Remove 1. Position the vehicle on a twin-post lift. 2. Tie bonnet back in upright position. 3. Disconnect battery earth lead. 4. Remove engine acoustic cover. 5. Release HO2S multiplug from support bracket on LH camshaft cover, disconnect multiplug. 6. Raise vehicle on lift. 7. Remove rear beam. 8. Remove RH catalytic converter 2002 Land Rover Freelander (LN) V6-2.5L Copyright © 2010, ALLDATA 10.20 Page 3 12. Remove bolt securing front pipe to bracket and remove front pipe. Discard gasket. 13. Remove 3 screws securing LH splash shield and remove shield 14. Release HO2S lead from clip on cylinder block. Remove 4 nuts securing exhaust manifold to cylinder head, remove manifold and discard gasket. 15. Drain fluid from IRD. 16. Drain gearbox fluid. 17. FitLRT-54-026 to the RH drive shaft inboard joint. 18. Using a suitable lever, release drive shaft from IRD. 19. With assistance, pull hub outwards and release drive shaft from IRD. CAUTION: Care must be taken not to damage oil seal when removing drive shaft from IRD. CAUTION: To avoid damage to gaiter or joint, do not allow shaft to hang on joint. 20. Remove LRT-54-026 from RH drive shaft inboard joint.

1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS Chrysler 45RFE Electronic Controls Repair Manual

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INTERNAL TCM Circuit Description The TCM is reporting internal errors. Diagnostic Procedure 1. Turn ignition switch to LOCK position. Remove transmission control relay. Measure resistance between ground and relay ground circuit (Black/Yellow wire) in relay connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, repair open circuit. If resistance s not greater than 5 ohms, go to next step. 2. The TCM has an internal problem and must be replaced. P0715: INPUT SPEED SENSOR ERROR Circuit Description DTC P0715 will set if an excessive change in input RPM has been detected in any gear. Possible Causes * Intermittent wiring and connector problems. * Faulty input speed sensor. * Input speed sensor circuits shorted to ground, shorted to voltage, or open. * Faulty TCM. Diagnostic Procedure 1. Place gear selector in “P” position and start engine. Using scan tool, monitor input speed sensor value. If value is less than 400 RPM, go to next step. If value is not less than 400 RPM, go to step 9. 2. Turn ignition switch to LOCK position. Install Transmission Simulator (8333). Turn ignition on. Using transmission simulator, turn rotary knob to middle (1000/3000) position. Turn INPUT/OUTPUT switch on. Using scan tool, monitor input and output speed sensor values. If input speed sensor value is 2950- 3050 RPM and output speed sensor value is 950-1050 RPM, replace input speed sensor. If speed sensor values are not as specified, go to next step. 3. Turn ignition switch to LOCK position. Disconnect TCM harness connector. Remove transmission control relay. Using fused jumper wire, jumper fused B+ circuit (Red/White wire) and transmission relay output circuit (Red wire) together at relay connector. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and input speed sensor signal circuit (Red/Black wire) at TCM harness connector. If voltage is greater than 3 volts, repair circuit for short to voltage. If voltage is not greater than 3 volts, remove jumper wire, install relay and go to next step. 4. Turn ignition switch to LOCK position. Disconnect input speed sensor harness connector. Measure resistance of input speed sensor signal circuit (Red/Black wire) between TCM and input speed sensor. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, repair open circuit. If resistance is not greater than 5 ohms, go to next step. 5. Measure resistance of input speed sensor ground circuit (Dark Blue/Black wire) between TCM and input

Toyota T50 5 Speed Transmission Electronic Speedo Drive Installation Manual

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I have intentionally left the photos large, to try to clarify any detail I did not explain in the text. This modification DOES require the use of a lathe, I have tried to write it so as to allow you to go to your local machine shop, brother in law, mate or anyone with a lathe…and it will be done correctly Much thanks to John O’Rielly (PLAGER 7) in Brisbane for passing on the information and problems he had with this modification. Fig.1Standard Drive Assemblies T50 left and AE101 right T50 Speedo Drive Adaption Rev 1 Feb 2003 2 Step One:- Dissassembly T50 Drive:- Disassembly is simple, remove the “C” clip from the drive housing , just above the drive gear. This will allow the shaft/gear assembly to be withdrawn from the housing. Remove the “O” ring from the housing. Wash all parts internally and externally to remove oil, grease and road grime. Fig.2 T50 Drive Disassembled T50 Speedo Drive Adaption Rev 1 Feb 2003 3 AE101 Drive:- Disassembly is similar to T50, remove the “C” clip from the drive housing , just above the drive gear. This will allow the shaft/gear assembly to be withdrawn from the housing. Remove the “O” rings from the housing. Remove the three (3) philips head screws from the cover on the top of the drive housing. Carefully remove cover, be aware that the small parts in side may be stuck to the cover. Remove all internal parts, record order of assembly. Wash housing and shaft to remove oil, grease and road grime. Fig.3 AE101 Drive Disassembled T50 Speedo Drive Adaption Rev 1 Feb 2003 4 Step Two:- Shortening the Drive Shaft Drive Shaft:- The T50 drive shaft needs to be shortened to a similar length to the AE101. I reassembled the AE101 shaft and housing, and then measured from the top face of the AE101 housing down to the top of the AE101 drive shaft. ( Fig.4) Record this reference depth, (I got 17mm) . Fig.4 Drive Shaft Depth Std AE101 Shaft & Housing The T50 drive shaft will need to be shortened to give the same depth as measured in Fig.4. When I did mine, (and a few others), I found I needed the T50 shaft to be 68.0mm long. Fig.5 Fig.6 The drive shaft is hardened, so I used a belt linisher to shorten the shaft, it could as easily be done on a fine grinding wheel. Remember slowly does it, regular checks of depth in housing and do not let the shaft get too hot during grinding/linishing, this will affect the heat treatment and consequently affect the strength of the drive dogs on the shaft end. Carefully deburr and chamfer, end detail should be similar to original AE101

2004 Toyota Prius EV (Electric Vehicle) Button Installation Instructions

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Time and Difficulty: I found the install to be moderately difficult and pretty time-consuming (about 3 hours) ; others have found it simple and report they have done it in as little as 30 minutes. Your experience will depend on your familiarity with the tools and electronics. I, personally, found insertion of the connection pin into the HV ECU plug to be difficult and almost got the first pin irrevocably stuck in the slot. I spent quite a bit of time with that part alone. I also found threading the wire behind the dash to be fairly tricky. I think the average person, not encountering any problems, could do this job in about 1-1½ hours. Procedure in Brief: 1) Remove bottom cover of steering wheel 2) Locate and unplug flasher plug 3) Open plug and remove 1-3 unused connector pins 4) Reattach steering wheel cover 5) Dismantle part of dash (vents) and remove lower glove box 6) Locate HV ECU (gray plugs) and remove lower plug 7) Solder wire to connector pin and insert into ECU plug (#27) 8) Splice EV button ground wire into ECU plug ground wire (#1) 9) Plug ECU plug back into the ECU 10) Thread wire behind dash to opening near dimmer switch 11) Attach switch to cover and solder wires in place 12) Reassemble the dash 13) Test Procedure in Detail: *Review ALL steps before proceeding and be sure you understand all terms used and you’ve looked at all diagrams and pictures. 1) Remove the bottom cover of the steering wheel by releasing the steering wheel adjustment handle and unscrewing the silver screw in that recess. 2004_prius_evv2.doc Page 4 of 20 Last updated March 13th, 2004 Then, turn the steering wheel 90 degrees right and remove the black screw that becomes visible on the right side of the steering column. Then turn the wheel 180 degrees left (90 degrees from normal position) and remove the black screw on the left side of the steering column. Carefully pull down on the lower portion of the steering column cover until it releases. Mine was a bit stiff/stuck to the upper part and you may need to carefully use a butter knife or screwdriver to start prying them apart. 2004_prius_evv2.doc Page 5 of 20 Last updated March 13th, 2004 2) Locate and unplug the white flasher plug visible just on the left side of the bottom of the steering column. 3) 2 little clips keep a cover locked in place. Pull those apart and remove the cover. Inside you’ll see lines of silver connector pins–some with wires attached, some without. You should remove between 1 and 3 of those pins–2 is probably safe, 3 might be better, since if you plan to install an OEM button at some point, you’ll probably need more pins for that. (You need one pin for the procedure, but it’s handy to have a back-up.) To remove the pins, you can use your paper clip to start the process of sliding them out, and then they just pull right out. 2004_prius_evv2.doc Page 6 of 20 Last updated March 13th, 2004 Stick them to a piece of tape or put them somewhere secure so you can find them later. Snap the cover back into place, and plug the flasher plug back in. 4) Replace the steering wheel cover by reversing the process. Be sure everything’s aligned properly and that there are no gaps. 5) Now you’ll need to dismantle part of the dash to get access to the ECU and other areas. First, open the top and bottom glove box doors. Squeeze the inside sides of the lower glove box together to get the catches past the portion of the dash frame that keeps the door from falling all the way open. Then pull the entire door straight toward you – it will unclip from the hinges at the bottom of the glove box. 2004_prius_evv2.doc Page 7 of 20 Last updated March 13th, 2004 You may also need to unclip the little hydraulic piston that keeps the door from falling open too quickly. Next, grasp the bottom of the silver vent piece next to the glove box. Pull it toward you firmly. It should unclip at the bottom first. Then pull the whole unit straight out

Toyota Landcruiser Rear Brake Upgrade Package / Installation Manual

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Toyota Landcruiser Rear Brake Upgrade Package HOPPERS STOPPERS HOPPERS STOPPERS HOPPERS STOPPERS HOPPERS STOPPERS 4 4 4 4 Rear Brake Upgrade Package 78/79 Series Toyota Landcruiser Cause of Rear Brake Problems 1 Combining a drum handbrake and a disc rotor and caliper within the confines of a 16-inch wheel necessitates a small brake caliper and small pad radial section, resulting in an undersized pad area. The standard design has a thin disc and a handbrake of small diameter and swept area relative to the weight of the vehicle. 2 The backing plate and handbrake arrangement allow mud and slurry to enter but not exit, causing abrasives to accumulate and rapidly destroy the handbrake, including its function as an emergency brake. 3 The small disc pad contact area is at odds with the affects of loading under abrasive conditions where rates of wear are parabolic for wear rate versus load. 4 The handbrake design is fiddly and complicated with many small parts that prove to be difficult to assemble correctly. Hoppers Stoppers design solution There appear to be a few possible ways to approach this problem, with a couple of companies proposing designs. Some take unconventional and unusual approaches but appear expensive to purchase and repair; with their application probably only justified if they perform perfectly for a very long time. Hoppers Stoppers’ approach is to stick to proven principles and overcome the basic weakness of the existing design. By all reports, the front brakes on these Toyotas work adequately, and considering their environment do not give significant problems in the field. In our view these brakes are not particularly special in their engineering, just the same basic front brakes that they have made for many years. If we built a rear brake set as solid and even better designed than the front it should last as long. This requires a big, thick disc rotor and brake lining swept area similar to the front