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front manual lockout hubs for a 2001 ford f250

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1997 Ford Aerostar/ Ranger Wheel Grease Seal and Bearing Front Replacement and Repacking

Disassembly 1. Raise the vehicle and install Rotunda Car/Truck Stands 077-00018 or equivalent. 2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. 3. Remove the retainer washers and remove the hub assembly. Refer to Manual Locking or Automatic Locking Hubs under Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment in this section for removal. 4. Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) as described in Section 06-03 . 5. Remove the hub and rotor. Remove the outer wheel bearing cone. 6. Remove the wheel hub grease seal (1190) from the rotor with Seal Remover TOOL-1175-AC or equivalent and Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A. Discard wheel hub grease seal and replace upon assembly. 7. Remove excluder seal. 8. Remove the inner wheel bearing. 9. NOTE: If new wheel bearing cups are installed, install new cone and roller assemblies. Inspect the wheel bearing cups for pits or cracks. If necessary, remove them with Internal Puller D80L-943-A or equivalent and Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100- A. Assembly 1. Lubricate the wheel bearings with High Temperature Constant Velocity Grease E43Z-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESP-M1C207-A. Clean all grease from the hub. Pack the cones and rollers. If a bearing packer is not available, work as much lubricant as possible between the rollers and the cages. 2. If wheel bearing cups are to be installed, position wheel bearing cups in rotor and drive in place with Bearing Cup Replacer T80T-4000-P and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W. 3. Position excluder seal on spindle and drive into position using Spindle Seal Replacer T95T-3132-D. 4. Position the inner wheel bearing in the inner wheel bearing cup in the rotor. Install the wheel hub grease seal by driving in place with Seal Replacer T80T-4000-T and Driver Handle T80T-4000-W. 5. Carefully install the rotor onto the front wheel spindle (3105). Refer to Section 06-03 . 6. Install outer wheel bearing into rotor. 7. Refer to Automatic Locking Hubs under Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment in this section for remainder of installation


FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS Dana 35-IFS & Automatic Locking Hubs 1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove front wheel assemblies. Remove retaining washers from wheel lug nut studs. See Fig. 1 . 2. Remove automatic locking hub assemblies. Remove snap ring and axle shaft spacer. Carefully pull plastic cam assembly from bearing adjusting nut. Remove 2 plastic thrust washers from adjusting nut. 3. Using magnet, remove locking key from spindle keyway. It may be necessary to rotate adjusting nut slightly to relieve pressure for locking key removal. Loosen adjusting nut with 2 3/8″ Hex Socket (T70T- 4252-B). 4. Tighten adjusting nut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 N.m) while turning hub back and forth to seat bearings. Spin hub and back off adjusting nut 90 degrees. Retighten adjusting nut to 16 INCH lbs. (1.8 N.m). 5. Align nearest hole in adjusting nut with center of spindle keyway slot. If necessary, advance nut to next lug. Install locking key in spindle keyway under adjusting nut. Install 2 thrust washers. Press plastic cam assembly onto adjusting nut while lining up key in fixed cam with spindle keyway. 6. Install axle shaft spacer. Clip snap ring onto end of spindle. Install automatic locking hub assembly with 3 legs of hub assembly inserted into 3 pockets of cam assembly. Install retaining washers and wheel assembly. Check hub and rotor assembly end play. End play should be 0-.003″ (0-.08 mm)


ISSUE b. If new level (47 fin) rotors are present, Some 2004/2005 F-150 vehicles built before perform one (1) of the following: 11/29/2004 may exhibit front brake roughness and or shudder while braking. (1) If rotors are within minimum thickness specifications, machine the rotors using ACTION the Rotunda on vehicle brake lathe and Service the rack and pinion, rotors, and caliper the Rotunda adapter kit 201-R0093. assemblies as needed, based on vehicle build date Refer to the Workshop Manual, Section and current part levels installed on the vehicle. 206-00 for the correct on-vehicle brake Refer to the following Service Procedure. lathe procedure. SERVICE PROCEDURE (2) If rotors are beyond machinable thickness, the front rotors must be 1. Vehicles built prior to 8/20/2003 require the replaced. replacement of the rack and pinion assembly if it has not been replaced. Refer to Workshop 3. Install new service fix calipers. Manual, Section 206-03 and 211-02. NOTE 2. Determine if the vehicle has the old or new REPLACE CALIPERS WITH NEW SERVICE FIX level rotors (Figure 1). CALIPER ASSEMBLIES BY REMOVING THE CALIPERS AT THE KNUCKLES. THE SERVICE REPLACEMENT CALIPERS WILL BE PRE-ASSEMBLED WITH ANCHOR, SPRINGS, AND PADS. THE CALIPERS SHOULD BE INSTALLED AS A UNIT WITHOUT DISASSEMBLY. PART NUMBER PART NAME 6L3Z-2B120-A Caliper Asy (Right Side) 6L3Z-2B121-A Caliper Asy (Left Side) 5L3Z-1102-AB Rotor (4X2, 6 Lug) 5L3Z-1102-BA Rotor (4X2, 7 Lug) 5L3Z-1125-AA Rotor (4X4, 6 Lug) 5L3Z-1125-BA Rotor (4X4, 7 Lug) 6L3Z-3504-AA Steering Gear (Super Cab/Crew 4X2) 6L3Z-3504-BA Steering Gear (Super Cab/Crew 4X4) Figure 1 – Article 05-21-19 6L3Z-3504-CA Steering Gear (Regular Cab 4X2) 6L3Z-3504-DA Steering Gear (Regular Cab 4X4) a. If old level rotors, replace the front rotors 6L3Z-3C294-AA Retainer Spindle Nut and front caliper assemblies. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 206-00 for front rotor and caliper replacement.

FORD 4-PANEL With New Automatic Latch System Truck WITH Factory Tailgate Lock CLASS 3 Installation Manual

1) Clean rail surfaces really well with denatured alcohol and make sure they are dry. 2) Press Gasket down firmly the entire length of the gasket 1) Use thin foam double stick tape to hold the clamped hardware in place on inside side rails. The reason we suggest you use this foam is that it is just an extra added protection to keep your clamped hardware from shifting on the sometimes slick surface of some sprayed-in bedliners. • ALL HARDWARE PROVIDED: Stainless steel nuts (18) Part # 9723 or 9723-A – Low Profile Cast aluminum “C” Clamps (16 of them) The only difference with 9723 and 9723-A is that A is a little deeper “C” clamp which is required on some trucks because of the way the inside rail is made. These cast aluminum “C” clamps uninstalled are about the size of a 1 dollar coin and about ¾ inch thick. Part # 9724-T : Latch Installation Tape – (4 pcs.) Part # 9724 – Latch Catch Bracket (4) – These are angled pieces of metal that give your cover’s latches something to “latch to” and are installed with “C” clamps. Part # 9731 – Center Latch Catches (2) Part # 9736 – D Shaped Seals (2) – Described Above Part # 9714 or 9758 – Stainless Steel Screws (18) (Depending on “C” clamps required above) Part # ST-114 – Keyhole Bracket (2) (Mounted at the Hinge closest to the cab of the truck on the inside of the side rail of the truck at that hinge point). Part # 9727 – Box Seal (2) – Described above INSTALLATION OVERVIEW: 1) Measure and make your marks for your masking tape to put your gaskets on each side. 2) Put down masking tape the entire length of the truck 3) Follow masking tape and install peel and stick gaskets (don’t trim in the rear just yet). 4) Place cover onto truck (you will use the measurements provided to make sure the cover is located exactly in the right position 5) Install Keyhole Bracket (holds the 3rd Leg Hinge) Explanation of 3rd Leg Hinge : • 3rd Leg hinge is a flap of metal that is integrated into the hinge • This flap is on the first hinge right behind the cab of the truck • When you mount the cover, this flap hangs straight down, and slides right into the keyhole bracket 6) Install two “C” Clamps to each Keyhole bracket to secure to the truck 7) Install your stainless steel bolt with lock nut that secures the 3rd Leg Hinge (the flap) into the keyhole bracket on each side. That is “your” permanent point of attachment. (THESE ARE THE SAME TWO BOLTS THAT YOU REMOVE TO TAKE OFF THE COVER) *Remember, the cover is now “installed” and cannot slide around – so you MOUNT ALL THE HARDWARE TO FIT THE COVER from here on out 8) Attach center latch catch on inside of side rails using “C” Clamps. *Center Latch Catch: holds center hinge and the 2 panels in the middle down when the cover is closed. When you close the last panel flat onto the tailgate, a stainless steel “button” along each side of the cover is depressed between the 2 panels at the hinge. When this button is squeezed, it actually pushes a stainless steel latch towards the front of the truck catching the center latch on each side rail. 9) Attach Rear Latch Catch Brackets* using “C” Clamps * These are angled pieces of metal that give your cover’s latches something to “latch to” and are installed with “C” clamps. 10) Install Front Latch Catch Brackets using “C” clamps 11) THIS STEP IS ONLY FOR THE Ford F250/F350 SuperDuty Installations ONLY: The outer seal that comes with your cover and is attached on this rail is called a “Side Box Seal” Because the plastic Ford rails on the SuperDuty are ridged/grooved a little deeper and wider than those on the other Ford trucks, a set of small matte black screws are used in addition to the adhesive on the seal to ensure a snug fit. These screws only slightly penetrate the plastic side rail cover and do not come in contact with the underlying metal side rail

2001 Toyota Highlander Sport Utility, Radio, FRONT DOOR SPEAKER INSTALLATION MANUAL

2001 Toyota Highlander Sport Utility PRELIMINARY: Disconnect the negative battery cable. ANTENNA: The factory antenna is located atop the right front fender panel. RADIO REMOVAL AND IN-DASH INSTALLATION: Note: The factory radio provision is for a Double ISO/DIN style radio. An installation kit is required when installing an aftermarket stereo. 1. Using panel removal tool carefully pry off radio bezel. 2. Extract (6) 10 mm bolts securing radio and climate controls in dash, disconnect and remove. 3. Extract (8) Iso screws securing radio to bracket. 4. Extract (2) Philips screws securing bracket to bezel, pull away and remove radio. FRONT DOOR SPEAKER INSTALLATION: Note: The factory speaker provision is for a 1 ½” tweeter and a 6 ½” 3-Hole speaker mounted to a factory speaker adapter. 1. Remove screw cover from door opener cup and exract (1) Philips head screw, pry bezel out then forward to remove. 2. Remove inside mirror cover. 3. Pry out door cup and extract (1) Philips screw from beneath. 4. Exract (1) plastic fastener from front top portion of door. 5. Pry off door panel, pull away, disconnect, and remove. 6. Extract (3) 10 mm bolts securing speaker, pull away, disconnect, and remove. REAR DOOR SPEAKER INSTALLATION: Note: The factory speaker provision is for a 5 ¼” 3-Hole speaker mounted in a factory speaker adapter. 1. Remove screw cover from door opener cup and extract (1) Philips head screw, pry bezel out then forward to remove. 2. Pry out door cup and extract (1) Philips screw from beneath. 3. Pry off door panel, pull away, disconnect and remove. 4. Extract (3) 10 mm bolts securing speaker , pull away, disconnect, and remove