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How To Build a High Performance Cummins Diesel

CEO/ Diesel Injection of Pittsburgh Keep in mind while reading this document that it is a gathering of all the articles Bruce has written over the last ten years. There may be some old prices discussed so, to get the latest pricing, check the main page. If you have any questions feel free to call us at 724-274-4080 and we can discuss your horsepower needs. Please have your CPL#. If you are looking for upgrades for your Electronic Celect/Celect Plus Cummins engine visit our Pittsburgh Power site at HOW TO BUILD A HIGH-PERFORMANCE CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE This is a very controversial subject and 99% of the mechanics who build diesel engines will disagree with what we have to say and will probably refuse to build the engine for you. For the owner-operator who loves horsepower do not give up when you speak to the negative mechanic. There are a few good shops throughout the states that will build the ultimate performance engine. Or you can build it yourself as long as you have mechanical knowledge and tools. BUILDING THE ENGINE: In order to have the engine live with high horsepower and run efficiently you must have the right combination of compression ratio, fuel, air and timing. Please do not try to get extreme power simply by increasing the fuel pressure on a stock engine. You will obtain some horsepower, however your compression ratio, air and timing will be wrong. The best time to obtain horsepower is during a rebuild. Since you are going to buy new parts anyway you might as well buy the right combination that produces horsepower and generally the price of the high performance parts is the same as the stock parts. NOW TO THE NUTS AND BOLTS : The compression ratio of the pistons and the timing must go together. High compression pistons belong only in gasoline engines that are naturally aspirated. Turbocharged diesel engines must have low compression pistons in order to produce high horsepower. The lower the compression ratio the less wear on rod bearings and the lower the internal pressure will be when the injector fires. High internal pressure is very detrimental to the life of a piston. When you see a piston with a hole burned through, it’s not the fault of the injector it is a result of internal pressure. To control the pressure we lower the compression ratio and retard the timing. If you compare the compression ratio and timing of an NTC 290 versus an NTC 400 you will see the difference. Where do you think we have to be on the timing to produce 700 horsepower from an NTC?

Ford V6 And V8 Timing Set Installation Instructions

Installation Instructions 1. Clean everything! Make sure that the engine mounting surfaces and your new timing set have been thoroughly cleaned with a good solvent. 2. If you are using a timing set with three keyways, select the appropriate keyway for your camshaft timing specifications. COMP Cams ® recommends the standard timing position for most applications. This position uses the round or “O” timing and keyway marks. Standard Timing Location: This is the same as original O.E.M. setting. Use keyway and crankshaft gear tooth marked “O”. É 4 Degree Advance: Use keyway and crankshaft tooth marked . Note: The or advanced position should not be used without degreeing the camshaft. Many camshafts have the proper advance built in. Advancing the cam will reduce intake valve to piston clearance and increase exhaust piston to valve clearance. É 4 Degree Retard: Use keyway and crankshaft gear tooth marked . Note: The or retarded position should not be used without degreeing the camshaft. Many cams have the proper advance built in. Retarding the cam will reduce exhaust valve to piston clearance and increase intake piston to valve clearance. 3. Install your lower timing gear on the crankshaft making sure that the timing marks are facing out toward you. 4. Now that the lower timing gear has been installed check the timing mark alignment in your engine manual. Rotate the crankshaft using your crankshaft socket until the timing mark on the gear is in the proper position (12 o’clock). For 240-300 6 cyl. see Note 1 before proceeding! 5. If your engine is equipped with a camshaft retaining plate or thrust plate, it should be installed at this time. Note that many Ford thrust plates are marked “back – bottom”. Before final installation check to make sure that the thrust plate is fitted correctly. 351W owners see Note 2 before proceeding! 6. Temporarily install your camshaft timing gear and rotate the camshaft until the timing mark on the camshaft gear is in the proper position per your engine manual instructions (6 o’clock) Ford Timing Set Installation Instructions


1998 – 2000 MODELS 1. Inspect main ground points (refer to SB99*04*S001 for more information). * P6 ground point-body [on the passenger side of engine compartment, between the battery and cruise control actuator (if equipped)]. (Figure Fig. 1 ) * P10 ground point-engine (at the alternator bracket) . (Figure Fig. 2 ) Isuzu: 1998 – 2000 Rodeo AFFECTED VEHICLES:1998 – 2000 Rodeo (UE)/Amigo (UA) models with 3.2L V6 engines NOTE: Please refer to the appropriate workshop manual for the correct diagnosing procedure and/or follow the service procedures outlined in this bulletin for the vehicle being serviced. NOTE: The 1998, 1999 or 2000 Rodeo/Amigo Electrical Troubleshooting Manual can assist in locating the vehicle ground distribution (i.e., ground contact points). * Perform a voltage drop test at the main ground points. * If the voltage drop test fails, then inspect and clean both the bolt and contact point. * Verify and correct idle settings (if needed) as described in the workshop manual. * If the repair procedure on this step solves the high idle condition, then return the vehicle to the customer. If the repair procedure on this step does not solve the high idle condition, then go to step 2 (16 pin Blue Connector). B. Remove P-6/P-10 ground terminal and bolt for ground contact inspection. * Inspect ground contact area for corrosion. * Inspect bolt and thread for damage or corrosion. * Clean the ground area and fastening bolt thoroughly with a wire brush. * Replace bolt if damaged or heavily corroded. C. Install the P-6/P-10 ground terminal and bolt (tighten using hand tools only). * Torque the P-6/P-10 ground terminal bolt to (14 N.m) 10 lb.ft. 1998 – 1999 MODELS ONLY 2. Inspect the 16 pin blue connector, located under the power steering fluid reservoir for corrosion, bent, or damaged pins (specifically for the Throttle Position Sensor). (Figure Fig. 3 )


SERVICE PROCEDURE IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO REPLACE THE HIGH PRESSURE PUMP WHEN REPLACING THE A minimum of 3.5 MPa (500 psi or 0.8 volts) ICP is QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS. required before the injectors are enabled. No or low oil in the system, leakage at the injector upper 4. If a leak is identified in the branch tube, use D-rings, high pressure pump quick connect fitting, the following procedure to replace the branch high pressure pump discharge tube, faulty injection tube if the vehicle your working on is a F-Super pressure regulator (IPR), high pressure pump, or Duty or Excursion. For E-Series, the engine branch tube could cause low ICP pressure. needs to be removed to replace the branch tube. When replacing the branch tube, also 1. Perform the revised Powertrain Controls / install the STC bracket kit. Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) lead diagnostics Section 4, Hard Start / No Start Diagnostic BRANCH TUBE REPLACEMENT FOR F-SUPER Procedure Tests 10e and 10f. These tests were DUTY AND EXCURSION VEHICLES ONLY revised in January 2006. 1. Remove the transmission. See the appropriate NOTE model year Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 307-01. THE LOW PRESSURE OIL SYSTEM MUST BE WORKING PROPERLY IN ORDER FOR THE HIGH NOTE PRESSURE OIL SYSTEM TO BUILD ICP LEAVE THE FLYWHEEL ON THE ENGINE, AS IT PRESSURE. THIS INCLUDES ADEQUATE WILL MAKE IT EASIER TO TURN THE ENGINE PRESSURE AND GOOD QUALITY PROPERLY OVER TO TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC) AND THE MAINTAINED OIL. TRANSMISSION FLUID DOES NOT NEED TO BE NOTE DRAINED. THIS TSB ONLY APPLIES TO REPLACEMENT OF 2. Set engine at TDC both cylinder number 1 ANY COMPONENT FOUND DEFECTIVE WHILE rocker arms should be loose. See rocker arm PERFORMING PC/ED HARD START / NO START removal procedure in the appropriate online TESTS 10e AND 10f. WSM, Section 303-01C


INSTALLATION 1. This kit contains all the necessary parts to operate Edelbrock carburetors in a progressive or 1: 1 type operation. Figure 1 illustrates typical progressive type installation in which the rear carburetor is the primary carb. This simplifies linkage attachment to the vehicle’s existing throttle linkage. 2. Before attaching anything to the carburetors, loosely assemble the major components of the linkage kit using Figure 1 as a guideline. Note that the longer rod will go to the rear carb with the flat facing down, and the short rod goes to the front carb with the flat facing up. The brass bearing blocks should be positioned so that the set screws will tighten against the flat of the short rod, i.e., both bearing block set screws will be up. Attach the aluminum collar to the long rod between the bearing blocks with the set screw against the flat. 3. Attach the linkage assembly to the carbs with the 10-24 allen head screws and locknuts. Attach to the rear carb using one of the brass 518″ O.D. x 3/16″ I.D. shoulder spacers and the tapered brass anti-rotation shoulder spacer in the top hole of the throttle arm (112″ diameter). Note that the shoulder spacer goes on the inside and the anti-rotation spacer goes on the outside of the throttle arm. Attach to the front carb using the 3/16″ hole just below the large hole in the throttle arm. ADJUSTMENT – NOTE: If carburetors are full of fuel, place rags in the carb throats to absorb the fuel discharged when working the throttle linkage. This will prevent flooding and possible damage to the piston rings upon start-up. Be sure to remove the rags before starting engine. 1. Tighten the set screw and locknut on the rear bearing block, making sure that the bearing block is close to the end of the shaft from the front carburetor. 2. Push the throttle arms of both carbs to WOT (Wide Open Throttle), then adjust the aluminum collar to touch the rear brass bearing block. Securely tighten the set screw and locknut on the aluminum collar. 3. Let both throttle arms return to idle position, then adjust the front brass bearing block to almost touch the aluminum collar. Leave about .020″-.030″ clearance to allow for independent idle speed adjustment of each carburetor. Tighten all set screws, locknuts, and bolts at this time. 4. Check for smooth operation of linkage from idle to WOT and note that the rear carb will open about 20″ before starting to open the front carb. Both carbs should reach WOT at the same time. 5. IMPORTANT: Attach a return spring to both carburetors as shown in Figure 1. Use the return spring brackets supplied, bending as necessary for attachment to your engine. Generally the brackets can be attached to the intake manifold using the existing bolts. Use the longer or shorter spring on either the front or rear carburetor as required for your particular application. Check for smooth operation and positive return to idle. 6. Attach existing throttle linkage to rear carburetor using the 3/16″ hole below the large hole in the throttle arm. It may be necessary to shorten your existing linkage rod or cable, or to use an aftermarket cable mounting plate. BEFORE STARTING ENGINE, DOUBLE-CHECK FOR SMOOTH OPERATION OF LINKAGE FROM IDLE TO WIDE OPEN THROTTLE AND FOR POSITIVE RETURN TO IDLE. OPTIONAL 1:l INSTALLATION If 1:l linkage is desired, assemble and attach linkage kit as above, except that the attachment point to the front carburetor’s throttle arm will be the large 112″ hole using the other two 518″ O.D. x 3/16″ I.D. shoulder spacers (similar to the rear carburetor). Adjust the bearing blocks to eliminate all freeplay, so that all motion to the rear carburetor’s throttle arm is transmitted directly to the front carb’s throttle arm