honda pilot exhaust system diagram

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2007 HONDA PILOT EXHAUST PIPE FINISHERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda Manuals) by admin on 06-10-2011

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TOOLS REQUIRED 10 mm Socket Torque wrench Rubber mallet 2 Exhaust pipe finishers 3. While pushing the exhaust pipe finisher firmly against the exhaust pipe, tighten the flange bolt. Torque the flange bolt to 10 N·m (7lbs-ft.). Repeat for the second exhaust pipe finisher. 2. With the flange bolts facing down, slide the exhaust pipe finishers onto the exhaust pipes until they bottom. If necessary, use a rubber mallet to tap the exhaust pipe finishers into place. 4. Start the engine and rev it up a few times. Listen for vibration from the exhaust pipe finishers and adjust if necessary.

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1996-2000 Chevrolet And GMC Suburban/ Pick-Up 2500/ 3500 Series TUBULAR EXHAUST SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION

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Filed Under (Chevrolet Manuals) by admin on 29-12-2011

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Disassembly – Left Side 1. Disconnect negative cable from battery. 2. Use penetrating oil on all nuts and bolts to be removed. This will prevent the possibility of broken or stripped nuts and bolts. 3. Remove air cleaner system (note position of line and hose connections). 4. Disconnect spark plug wires. 5. Disconnect temperature sensor wire. 6. Remove EGR fitting. 7. Remove bolts and exhaust manifold. Disassembly – Right Side 1. Remove air cleaner box. 2. Disconnect spark plug wires. 3. Remove dipstick and dipstick tube. 4. Remove bolts and exhaust manifold. 5. Clean exhaust flange surfaces on both cylinder heads at this time. DISASSEMBLY – CROSSOVER PIPE 1. Raise vehicle and support with jackstands. 2. Disconnect and remove 02 sensors (2), being careful not to rupture or destroy the unit. WARNING: Do not clean this unit in any cleaning solvent and do not damage wire. 3. Between left and right side of the catalytic converter is a 3-bolt flange with gasket. From the front face of flange, measure out 15″ towards front of truck and cut stock exhaust pipes. Remove exhaust pipes from vehicle. NOTE: Before cutting pipes, measure the height of the converter from the bottom of the floor board for when you install new exhaust pipes you can maintain same distance. •ASSEMBLY – LEFT SIDE 1. Install T.E.S. flange gasket and one 3/8″-16 x 1″ bolt, lock washer, and thick flat washer at rearmost bolt hole (leave bolt loose enough to accept T.E.S.). 2. Install left side T.E.S. manifold from bottom side 3. Install all bolts and washers and tighten. Use thick flat washers on slotted holes. 4. Reinstall spark plugs. 5. Replace original equipment spark plug ends on cylinders #3 and #5 with 60° connectors and boots provided in kit. 6. Re-connect spark plug wires on left side. 7. Re-install temperature sensor wire to temperature sensor. ASSEMBLY – RIGHT SIDE 1. Install T.E.S. flange gasket and one 3/8″-16 x 1″ bolt, lock washer and thick flat washers at rearmost bolt hole (leave bolt loose enough to accept T.E.S.). 2. Install right side T.E.S. manifold from top side. Now install dipstick tube. 3. Install remaining bolts and lock washers. 4. Align all parts and tighten all right side bolts at this time. 5. Replace original equipment spark plug ends on cylinders #4, #6 and #8 with 60° connectors and boots provided in kit. 6. Re-connect right side spark plug wires. 7. To prevent contact with the hot T.E.S. tubing, use nylon tie wrap (supplied) to secure the heater hose to the a.c. dryer. 8. Re-install air cleaner box. CROSSOVER PIPE ASSEMBLY 1. With catalytic converters in their natural position, install and bolt exhaust extension pipes to header collectors using 3/8″ – 16″ x 2 1/2″ hex bolts, 3/8″ flat washers, 3/8″ lock washers and 3/8 hex nuts. Use the 3″ donut provided in kit. 2. Check alignment of pipes to the catalytic converter, secure bolts. 3. With everything in place, tack weld exhaust pipes to catalytic assembly. 4. Unbolt whole exhaust assembly from vehicle and let it hang. Complete weld around pipes. 5. Bolt assembly back in vehicle and check for clearance. 6. Re-install 02 sensors. Use anti-seize on threads of sensor. Route wires clear of exhaust system. 7. Lower vehicle to ground

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Installation of the Smitty 5-speed Toyota Kit

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 25-10-2011

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Toyota pilot bearing: Toyota uses a ball pilot bearing which is a very accurate fit on the end of the pilot shaft. I had to sand my pilot shaft down slightly with wet/dry paper to get the bearing to be other than a force fit. You need a sliding fit for installation of the trans in the car. Pilot Tool adjustment: I believe it is necessary, or desirable at least, to tighten up the accuracy of the supplied plastic pilot tool to make sure the nose of the first-motion shaft will slide into the Toyota pilot bearing during installation of the trans. I wrapped the pilot tool with enough electrical tape so it was a perfect fit on both the pilot bearing and the clutch disc splines. 1 layer of tape around the contour of the splines did the trick. Smitty supplies an aluminum ring which holds the Toyota pilot bearing into the Healey flywheel. I used a vise to press the bearing into the ring, and a large 1-5/16 socket as a tool to hammer this into the recess in the flywheel. This was easy if you’re careful. Your lead hammer makes a dandy driver for this. Toyota Trans install: The shop manuals warn against tilting the engine into the radiator. Mine has the 6- bladed fan about 1/2″ back from the radiator and during this process it never came close to the radiator. If you have the block between the valve cover and the firewall, minor or no jacking of the engine should be necessary in order to get the Toyota trans in place. Position your trans jack or floor jack in the middle of the hole and place the Toyota trans on top of it. Lower enough to get the bell housing through the opening, then raise it back up to where the bolt holes align. Observe parallelism between the bell housing and engine flange. I believe the limiting factor here is the alignment of the Toyota pilot shaft with the pilot bearing–I believe this is at least as accurate as anything to do with the dowel bolts.

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2007-2009 Toyota FJ Cruiser Banks Monster Exhaust System Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 06-04-2012

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1. Before starting work, familiarize yourself with the installation procedure by reading all of the instructions. 2. The exploded view (Figure 2) provides only general guidance. Refer to each step and section diagram in this manual for proper instruction. 3. Throughout this manual, the left side of the vehicle refers to the driver’s side, and the right side to the passenger’s side. 4. Disconnect the negative (ground) cable from the battery (or batteries, if there are two) before beginning work. 5. Route and tie wires and hoses a minimum of 6″ away from exhaust heat, moving parts and sharp edges. clearance of 8″ or more is recommended where possible. 6. When raising the vehicle, support it on properly weight-rated safety stands, ramps or a commercial hoist. Follow the manufacturer’s safety precautions. Take care to balance the vehicle to prevent it from slipping or falling. When using ramps, be sure the front wheels are centered squarely on the topsides; put the transmission in park; set the hand brake; and place blocks behind the rear wheels. Caution! Do not use floor jacks to support the vehicle while working under it. Do not raise the vehicle onto concrete blocks, masonry or any other item not intended specifically for this use. 7. During installation, keep the work area clean. Do not allow anything to be dropped into intake, exhaust, or lubrication system components while performing the installation, as foreign objects will cause immediate engine damage upon start-up. Tools Required: • 1? 2 ” and 3? 8 ” drive ratchets with standard and metric sockets and 1 ? 2 ” and 3? 8 ” drive extension • Standard and metric combination or open-end wrenches • Standard screwdriver • Clean shop towels or rags • Pry-bar Highly recommended tools and supplies: • Foot-pound torque wrench • Penetrating oil or light lubricant spray General Installation Practices 97083 v.2.0 3 Monster Exhaust SySTEM INSTallaTIoN 1. Disconnect the negative (ground) cable from the battery (if there is more than one battery, disconnect both negative cables). Secure the cable so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the post. 2. Raise the vehicle and support it securely with properly weight-rated safety stands, ramps or a commercial hoist. Take care to balance the vehicle to prevent it from slipping or falling. When using ramps, be sure the wheels are centered squarely on the topsides. Place the transmission in park (automatic), set the parking brake and securely block the wheels that are on the ground. CaUTIoN: Do NoT WoRK UNDER aNy VEHIClE SUPPoRTED oNly By a JaCK. SEVERE INJURy May RESUlT. 3. From under the vehicle remove the factory exhaust starting at the 2-bolt flange in front of the muffler. Remove the two (2) bolts, two (2) washers, and two (2) springs from the flange and retain for re-use. NOTE: Remove the factory gasket from the 2-bolt flange. The exhaust system will be hanging by the exhaust hanger pins. 4. Liberally apply an aerosol lubricant on all the hanger pins. Remove the exhaust system from the vehicle by removing each hanger pin from the rubber grommet. NOTE: Remove hanger pins from the front of the vehicle to the rear. 5. Drop the exhaust system to the floor and move out of the way. You will not be reusing any components from the exhaust system. 6. Install the Banks conical gasket onto the vehicle’s 2-bolt flange. 7. Install the hanger pin on the intermediate pipe into the corresponding rubber grommet. Install the Banks intermediate pipe onto the factory 2-bolt intermediate pipe outlet using the factory hardware. See Figure 1. When tightening the

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1996 Ford Truck E 350 Exhaust Manifold – Exhaust Leaks Service Manual

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 08-02-2012

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SERVICE PROCEDURE NOTE IF THE MANIFOLD IS TO BE RESURFACED, THE BOLTS MUST BE SHORTENED TO ACCOMMODATE THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD . THE BOLTS SHOULD HAVE THE LEADING “DOG POINT” REMOVED TO PREVENT BOTTOMING INTO THE HOLE. NOTE THERE SHOULD NOT BE ANY TYPE OF GASKET USED BETWEEN THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND THE CYLINDER HEAD. Parts Block OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE SUPERSEDES: 97-26-23 WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper 1. If an exhaust leak exists at the exhaust manifold due to a reduction in bolt torque, remove the manifold bolts and the exhaust manifold and check the overall flatness of the manifold. The manifold should not exceed 0.25 mm (0.010″) out- of-flat. Refer to the appropriate model/year Service Manual for manifold removal procedures. 2. If the vehicle is covered under the emissions warranty period, replace the manifold if it is out-of-flat. If the vehicle is out of the emissions warranty period, resurface the exhaust manifold 3. Install the manifold using new mounting hardware, but DO NOT USE WASHERS TO INSTALL THE MANIFOLD. Torque the bolts to 34-47 N.m (25- 35 lb-ft). 4. Check all exhaust system fittings loosened during repair for adequate tightness and allow engine to warm up. Recheck exhaust system for leaks and repair as required.

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2003 Chevrolet Chevy K Silverado Exhaust Popping/Snapping Noise When Vehicle is Hot, at Idle, or Immediately After Vehicle is Shut Off (Replace Muffler Heat Shield) Service Manual

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Filed Under (Chevrolet Manuals) by admin on 09-02-2012

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Follow the service procedure below to correct this condition. Important: Some popping/snapping noise from the exhaust system during cool down is a normal condition. The customer should be made aware that this service procedure is designed to reduce but not eliminate all exhaust system popping and snapping during cool down. 1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Caution: 2. Remove the nuts securing the muffler to the catalytic converter. 3. On 6.0L and 8.1L equipped vehicles only, loosen the exhaust pipe clamp. Important: Do not use oil base lubricants on the rubber exhaust hangers. 4. Apply a soapy solution to the exhaust pipe hanger rods in order to ease the removal of the exhaust hangers. 5. Pry the exhaust hangers free from the exhaust pipe hanger rods. Important: It is not necessary to remove the muffler from the vehicle to replace the muffler heat shield. 6. Reposition the muffler to gain access to the muffler heat shield 7. Using an air-powered hack saw blade, or equivalent, cut off the existing muffler heat shield just as the heat shield rises off of the muffler. See the illustration above. 8. Remove the heat shield from the muffler. 9. Hammer flush the remaining heat shield to the muffler. Important: 10. Install the new heat shield (see parts list below) onto the muffler as shown above.

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Toyota Tundra Exhaust System Installation

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 27-09-2011

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Original Exhaust System Removal Note: With a used vehicle, we suggest a penetrating spray lubricant to be applied liberally to all exhaust fasteners and allowing a significant period of time for the chemical to lubricate the threads before attempting to disassemble. 1. For an easier time during the removal of the factory exhaust and for the installation of your new exhaust system, remove the spare tire as recommended by vehicle manual. 2. Loosen the clamp located just behind the muffler assembly. (See figure 1) 3. Lubricate all the hangers and rubber isolators. 4. Using a muffler stand or an additional person to hold the tail pipe assembly in position, remove the hangers from the rubber isolators and remove the tail pipe assembly from the ve- hicle. 5. Unbolt the two flanges located just after each catalytic converter. Place the hardware to the side for use during the installation of your new exhaust system. (See figure 2A and 2B) 6. Using a muffler stand or an additional person to hold the muffler assembly in position, remove the hangers from the rubber isolators and remove the remaining exhaust from the vehicle. Warning: Use extreme caution during installation. Torque all fasteners according to manufacturer’s torque values and tightening sequence. DO NOT use air impact tools to tighten fasteners on Borla Performance Exhaust Systems. Use of such tools may result in bent flanges or gasket contact areas leading to exhaust leaks.

4.6L Mustang Bassani Mid Length Headers INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 05-12-2011

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. Safely raise & support vehicle to a comfortable working height. (One jack stand at each corner of vehicle.) 3. Spray attaching hardware and base of o2 sensors with WD40 or similar Lubricant. Remove 02 sensors from stock system. (Be careful not to damage or contaminate sensor). Stock gasket will be re-used upon assembly. 4. Remove both connector tubes between stock exhaust manifold and Bassani Modular X pipe. It may be necessary to loosen downstream clamps on the Bassani Modular X pipe. 5. Loosen EGR fitting on drivers side exhaust manifold. It will be necessary to remove nuts from the motor mounts at the K member to jack engine up. Motor mount heat shields have to be removed. 6. Loosen & remove both exhaust manifolds. 2 valve, stock manifold gaskets, depending on condition, may be re-used . Remove studs from both sides. Use supplied, and/or stock hardware. See note following #10. 7. Label wiring on starter and remove it. (Will be necessary for header installation) 8. You may also need to remove oil filter to ease installation and tightening on drivers’ side. 9. IMPORTANT! It will be necessary to unbolt steering shaft from rack. With a marker draw a straight line on shaft down to rack to index them both. Do not move front wheels or steering wheel. 10. It will be necessary to lift engine up enough to slide header tubes in and have access to install supplied header bolts. After loosening motor mount bolts, lifting engine (using a wooden block under oil pan) and removing motor mounts, one side at a time only, will ease installation. Removal of motor mounts is not mandatory. **Anti seize must be applied to all threads (header bolts and studs). It may be necessary to use a combination of header bolts and stock studs & nuts on certain tubes due to clearance between the tube and hardware. ie; stud nut or header bolt. The use of either is the installers preference. 11. Start on passenger side, with tube #1R. Push as far forward as possible to allow clearance for #2R. Once #2R is in position, install gaskets, and header bolts. When this is completed commence installation of #3R and #4R tubes following previous procedure. Leave bolts loose, DO NOT TIGHTEN UNTIL COLLECTOR IS INSTALLED. 12. When Collector R is ready for right side, place Bassani anti seize jet lube , on slip connectors to ease installation. When collector lines up with tab on header tube, fasten them together and tighten all header tubes. 13. When all hardware is properly tightened, lower engine, re-install motor mount hardware, starter and O2 sensors in collector. The use of Bassani anti seize Jet Lube is recommended on O2 sensor threads. Do not to contaminate O2 sensor bulb with lube. 14. Proceed to drivers’ side. Install #1L with gasket installed. Install supplied fasteners with Bassani anti seize jet lube on the threads. DO NOT TIGHTEN ALL THE WAY, leave semi loose. Install tube #3L, then #2L. You will need to experiment with pipes #2L and #3L. #2L will slip between #3L and #1L. Now install #4L, fasten and screw air fitting to tube #4L. Install Collector L . When collector tab lines up with header tab, tighten all hardware, and bolt on EGR, and any smog fittings. Lower engine and re-install motor mount hardware. Reconnect steering shaft using loctite 271 thread locker on bolt.

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1999 Honda Civic EX TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Honda Manuals) by admin on 04-02-2012

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TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m) A/C Compressor Bracket-To-Engine Bolts 33 (45) A/C Compressor-To-Bracket Bolts 18 (24) A/C Idler Pulley Bracket Bolts 8-mm 18 (24) A/C Idler Pulley Center Nut 33 (45) Battery Tray 18 (24) Camshaft Holder Bolts DOHC 8-mm Bolts 20 (27) SOHC 8-mm Bolts 15 (20) Camshaft Pulley Bolt DOHC 41 (56) SOHC 27 (37) Catalytic Converter Flange Nuts 25 (34) Clutch Slave Cylinder Line/Hose Bracket 8-mm Bolts 18 (24) Clutch Slave Cylinder Mounting 8-mm Bolts 18 (24) Connecting Rod Bearing Cap Nuts DOHC 30 (40) SOHC 23 (31) Crankshaft Pulley Bolt DOHC 130 (177) SOHC (1) Cylinder Head Bolts DOHC First Step (Bolts 1-10) 22 (29) Second Step 61 (83) SOHC First Step (Bolts 1-10) 15 (20) Second Step (Bolts 1-10) 36 (49) Thrid Step (Bolts 1-10) 49 (67) Forth Step (Bolts 1 & 2) 49 (67) Distributor Mount Bolt 18 (24) Drive Plate Bolts (A/T Or CVT) 54 (74) EGR Valve Nuts 15 (20) Engine Coolant Drain Plug 58 (79) Engine Mounts (2) Transaxle Mount 10-mm Bolts 12-mm Bolts/Nuts 47 (64) 12-mm Through-Bolt 54 (74) Side Engine Mount 10-mm Nuts/Bolts 40 (54) Engine Upper Mount Bracket 74 (54) Rear Mount Bracket 12-mm Bolts 43 (59) 14-mm Bolts 61 (83) Left Front Mount 10-mm Bolts 33 (44) 12-mm Bolts 43 (59) Right Front Mount 10-mm Bolts 33 (44) 12-mm Bolts 47 (64) Engine Oil Drain Plug 33 (45) Engine Front & Rear Stiffeners 8-mm Bolts 18 (24) 10-mm Bolts 33 (44) 12-mm Bolts 42 (57) Exhaust Manifold Bracket Bolt 8-mm 18 (24) 10-mm 33 (45) Exhaust Manifold Cover 8-mm Bolts 18 (24) Exhaust Manifold-To-Cylinder Head Nuts (3) 23 (31) Exhaust Pipe Bracket 8-mm Nuts (3) 12 (16) Exhaust Pipe Flange 8-mm Bolts (3) 16 (22) Exhaust Pipe-To-Manifold/TWC (3) D16Y5 & D16Y7 Engines 25 (33) D16Y8 & B16A2 Engines 40 (54) Flywheel Bolts (M/T) 87 (118) Fuel Filter Banjo Bolt 25 (34) Generator Adjustment Lock Bolt 18 (24) Generator Bracket-To-Engine Bolts 33 (45) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) 33 (45) Inspection Hole Sealing Bolt (VTEC) 15 (20) Intake Air Control (IAC) Valve Bolts D16Y5 Engine 16 (22) D16Y8 Engine 18 (24) Idler Pulley Bracket Bolt DOHC

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2006 Honda CR-V EX FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/ INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Honda Manuals) by admin on 08-06-2012

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FRONT DOOR PANEL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION Special Tools Required * Trim pad remover, Snap-on A 177A or equivalent, commercially available * KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 1. Using a trim tool, pry out the upper portion of the cover (A) to release the hooks (B), then remove the cover. 2. Remove the screws. 3. Driver’s door: Pull the inner handle (A) rearward and out half-way to release the power door lock switch bracket (B) from the door panel (C). Fig. 7: Pulling Inner Handle – Driver Door Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC. 4. Passenger’s door: Pull the inner handle (A) halfway. Fig. 8: Pulling Inner Handle – Passenger Door Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC. 5. Driver’s door: Disconnect the power door lock switch connector (A). Disconnect the inner handle rod (B), then remove the inner handle (C). Fig. 9: Disconnecting Power Door Lock Switch Connector – Driver Door Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC. 6. Lower the glass fully. 7. Remove the screws from under the armrest. Fig. 10: Removing Screws From Under Armrest Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC. 8. Passenger’s door: Remove the switch panel (A). * 1 Insert a flat-tip screwdriver wrapped with protective tape through a hole under the armrest, and push up the back of the panel to release the rear hook (B). * 2 Pull out along the edge of the panel to release the hooks (C) and clip. * 3 Disconnect the power window switch connector (D). Fig. 11: Disconnecting Power Window Switch Connector Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC. 9. Remove the mirror mount cover (see step 2 on POWER MIRROR REPLACEMENT ). 10. Remove the door panel (A) with as little bending as possible to avoid creasing or breaking it. * 1 Release the clip (B). * 2 Release the clips (C) that hold the door panel with a commercially available trim pad remover (D).

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