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1989-1996 Dodge Dakota Trucks COIL Ignition Tests Manual

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Filed Under (Dodge Manuals) by admin on 18-06-2012

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Dakota Trucks 1989-1996 Ignition Tests COIL The ignition coil for the vehicles covered by this guide is in the following locations: • 1989-92 engines: mounted to the firewall • 1993-96 2.5L engines: mounted on the thermostat housing in front of the coolant temperature sensor • 1993-96 V6 and V8 LDC engines: mounted to a bracket bolted to the right engine cylinder head • 1993-96 5.9L HDC engines: mounted to a bracket bolted to the air injection pump (AIR pump) mounting bracket. Fig. 2: Ignition coil mounting-all 1989-92 models Fig. 3: Ignition coil wiring and mounting hardware-1993- 96 2.5L engine 1. Inspect the ignition coil for arcing while the engine is running. If the engine will not start, this can be performed while the engine is cranked by either an assistant or a remote starter. Look at the coil in dim or low light to aid visibility of any arcing. Fig. 4: Ignition coil mounting-1993-96 3.9L and 5.2L/5.9L LDC engines 2. Arcing at the tower will carbonize the wire boot, which, if it is connected to a new ignition coil, will cause the coil to fail. In such cases, clean all the carbonization away or replace the components as necessary. Fig. 5: Ignition coil mounting-1993-96 5.9L HDC engine 3. Using a coil tester or ohmmeter according to the manufacturer’s instructions, test the primary and secondary resistance. Replace any coil that does not meet the specifications indicated in the accompanying chart. 4. Inspect the secondary coil wire for any sign of damage. Replace if any damage is found. Carbon tracking on the old wire can cause arcing and the failure of a new ignition coil. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1989-92 Models See Figures 6 and 7 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the three wires from the coil. Mark them to identify for installation. Fig. 6: Remove the coil bracket bolt at the cowl Fig. 7: Unscrew the coil mounting hardware, then remove the coil from the vehicle 3. Unplug the condenser suppressor connector from the coil, if equipped. 4. Unbolt and remove the coil. To install: 5. Bolt down the coil with old bolts. 6. Connect wires to coil making sure that the proper wires are connected where they should be. 7. Connect the condenser suppressor, if equipped. 8. Connect the battery negative cable Removal and Installation V6 AND V8 ENGINES 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the primary wiring from the ignition coil. 3. Disconnect the secondary spark plug wire from the coil. 4. Remove the two bolts and withdraw the coil from its mounting bracket. To install:
5. Position the coil on its bracket and install the two bolts. Tighten them to 100 inch lbs. (11 Nm). If the bracket has been tapped for coil mounting bolts, these fasteners require less torque, so tighten them to 50 inch lbs. (5 Nm). 6. Connect all wiring to the ignition coil. TESTING See Figure 1 The only test you can perform without a DRBII scan tool, or equivalent, is a basic check of the sensor only.

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2004-2006 Chevrolet Malibu, Malibu Maxx Loss of Power Steering Assist, Power Steering Warning Message Displayed in DIC, IPC/Radio Displays Erratic, DTC C0900, B1325 Set (Replace Ignition Coil/Module Assembly and Add Ground Strap)

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Filed Under (Chevrolet Manuals) by admin on 10-01-2012

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Correction Replace the ignition coil/module assembly and add ground strap following the procedure below. 1. Disconnect the ignition coil electrical connector. 2. Disconnect the left side spark plug wires from the ignition coil. 3. Disconnect the right side spark plug wires from the ignition coil. 4. Remove the four bolts attaching the ignition coil to its mounting bracket and remove the ignition coil. 5. Remove the ignition coil from the mounting bracket. 6. Loosen the two lower ignition coil mounting bracket nuts. 7. Remove the two upper ignition coil mounting bracket bolts and discard. Subject: Loss of Power Steering Assist, Power Steering Warning Message Displayed in DIC, IPC/Radio Displays Erratic, DTC C0900, B1325 Set (Replace Ignition Coil/Module Assembly and Add Ground Strap) Models: 2004-2006 Chevrolet Malibu, Malibu Maxx with 3.5L Engine (VINs 8, N — RPOs LX9, LZ4) 8. Install the ground strap (1), P/N 12581176, to the upper left side of the bracket as shown between the coil bracket and intake. Install the new bracket bolt, P/N 11570082, (do not tighten at this time). Prior to installing the ground strap, remove the captured nut and washers. They are not needed (simply pound them out with a hammer on a vise). 9. Install the washer (2), P/N 02436162, to the upper right side of the bracket between the coil bracket and intake. Install the new bracket bolt, P/N 11570082, (do not tighten at this time). Tighten Tighten all the ignition coil bracket bolts and nuts to 25 N·m (15 lb ft). 10. Install the new ignition coil to the mounting bracket. 11. Install the other end of the ground strap to the coil as shown and secure using a new bolt, P/N 11588715. 12. Install the other three ignition coil bolts. Tighten Tighten the bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in). 13. Connect the right side spark plug wires to the ignition coil. 14. Connect the left side spark plug wires to the ignition coil. 15. Connect the ignition coil electrical connector

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Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated, DTCs P0300-P0306, Engine Runs Rough (Inspect for Water Intrusion in Spark Plug Recess Area, Replace Spark Plug and Ignition Coil, Seal Ign Coil Bolt Hole)

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 18-01-2012

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1. Observe the Misfire Current Counters parameter with a scan tool, in order to determine the affected cylinder(s). 2. Remove the air cleaner resonator and outlet duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Resonator and Outlet Duct Replacement in SI. 3. Disconnect the engine wiring harness electrical connectors from the affected ignition coil(s). Refer to Ignition Coil Replacement in SI. 4. Remove the ignition coil bolt(s) and ignition coil(s) from the camshaft cover. Refer to Ignition Coil Replacement in SI. Note: If water is observed in ANY of the spark plug recess areas, then it will be necessary to apply Loctite® 565 PST Thread Sealant* to ALL of the ignition coil bolt hole vents and bolt threads. 5. Inspect for water intrusion in the spark plug recess areas. Warning: Wear safety glasses when using compressed air, as flying dirt particles may cause eye injury. 6. If any water is present, then remove the water from the spark plug recess areas with low pressure air. 7. Remove the affected spark plug(s) from the cylinder head. Refer to Spark Plug Replacement in SI. 8. Replace ONLY the affected spark plug(s) with new spark plug(s) as needed into the cylinder head. Refer to Spark Plug Replacement in SI. 9. Fill the bottom of the ignition coil bolt hole vent with Loctite® 565 PST Thread Sealant* as indicated in the illustration, and apply it to the ignition coil bolt threads also. 10. Replace ONLY the affected ignition coil(s) with new ignition coil(s) as needed. Refer to Ignition Coil Replacement in SI. 11. Connect the engine wiring harness electrical connectors to the ignition coil(s). Refer to Ignition Coil Replacement in SI. 12. Replace the air cleaner resonator and outlet duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Resonator and Outlet Duct Replacement in SI. 13. Clear the DTCs with a scan tool.

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Battery Electrical Drain/ Parasitic Load Test Repair Manual

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 29-05-2012

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1. Disconnect the battery negative cable 2. Install the male end of the J 38758 to the negative battery terminal. 3. Turn OFF the test switch. 4. Install the negative battery cable to the female end of the test switch. 5. Install the Scan Tool (or equivalent) or wait for 20 minutes. 6. Turn ON the test switch. 7. Road test the vehicle while activating all accessories, including the radio and the air conditioning. 8. Lower the door glass, then exit the vehicle. Do not move the door handle after closing the door. 9. Open the hood. Important The power down timer will reset to 20 minutes if any wake up inputs are received by a Class 2 device (after the scan tool has put all Class 2 devices to sleep). 10. Put all of the Class 2 devices into the sleep mode. 11. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Remove the key. Important From this point on, electrical continuity must be maintained in the ground circuit of the battery through the Test Switch J 38758 in the ON position or through the ammeter J 39200 . 12. Components such as PCM, VCM, Automatic Air Conditioning, and the Truck Body Control Module have timers that draw several amps of current while they cycle down. This can give a false parasitic drain reading. Wait 20 minutes for these components to power down before continuing this test (or use the scan tool to put all Class 2 devices to sleep). 13. Connect a jumper wire with a 10 A fuse J 36169-A to the terminals of the test switch. 14. Turn the test switch to the OFF position. 15. Wait ten seconds. If the fuse does not blow, the current is less than 10 A. The ammeter can be used safely. 16. Before the fused jumper wire is removed, turn the test switch to the ON position. Important If an ammeter other than the J 39200 is used, ensure that the vehicle does not have a high current drain that would damage the ammeter when connected to the circuit. 17. Perform the following procedure in order to detect a high current drain: A. Set the ammeter J 39200 to the 10 A scale. B. Connect the ammeter to the test switch terminals. C. Turn OFF the test switch. This allows the current to flow through the ammeter. D. Wait one minute, then inspect the current reading. Ñ When there is a current reading of 2 A or less, turn ON the test switch, this maintains continuity in the electrical system. Ñ Then, switch the meter down to the 2 A scale, for a more accurate reading, when the test switch is reopened. E. Open the test switch. F. Take the reading in milliamps. G. Note the battery reserve capacity. Refer to Battery Usage . Ñ Divide this number by 4. Example: 90/4 = 22.5 Ñ Compare this to the ammeter reading. Ñ The current drain in milliamps should not exceed this number. Ñ Example: if a battery has a reserve capacity of 90 minutes, the current drain should not exceed 22 milliamps. H. When the current draw is too high, remove the electrical system fuses one at a time until the draw returns to a value less than or equal to specifications. Ñ Start with the fuses that are hot all the time. Ñ To remove the fuse, you must first open the door, which causes a high enough current flow to damage the ammeter. Ñ Protect the ammeter, without disturbing the electrical continuity, by turning ON the test tool before opening the door. Ñ Remove the courtesy lamp fuse. Ñ Note the ammeter reading. Ñ If the parasitic load is still excessive, start removing the remaining fuses one at a time. Ñ Keep the courtesy lamp fuse out during diagnosis, so the door can remain open. Ñ Perform Steps 11 through 13 each time a fuse is removed. I. Removing the PCM or VCM fuse should cause a drop of less than 10 milliamps. A drop greater than 10 milliamps indicates a possible short to ground. J. Check the orange wires along with the components connected to the orange wires. No drop in the milliampere reading indicates the PCM or VCM is not drawing current. K. Repeat the parasitic current drain test procedure after any repair has been completed. L. When the cause of the excessive current draw has been located and repaired, remove the ammeter and the parasitic draw test switch.

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Coil Spring Spacer Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 24-12-2011

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1. Check to see that the spacer kit you purchased matches the year and model of your vehicle. Spacer kits two inches or taller may require a spring compressor to install. Ball joint and tie rod forks may also be useful. 2. A good portion of your front suspension will be disassembled so this would be a good time to replace any worn parts (i.e. tie rod ends, ball joints, idler arm and any bushings) Replace bushings with polyurethane replacement parts. 3. Jack up vehicle as high as possible using jack stands for support at all times. 4. With vehicle safely off the ground remove front tires. It is advisable to disassemble on side at a time so that you can use the other side as a reference for re-assembly in the event you get side tracked. 5. Remove the brake caliper from the rotor (attached with 2 bolts inside the caliper or with press-in clips depending on the vehicle). Do not remove the brake line from the caliper unless you intend to bleed the brakes at this time. Set the caliper aside or tie it up to the frame rail. Avoid pinching the brake line. 6. Remove the tie rod from the spindle using the proper tools. Do not hit the tie rod itself or the nut on the threaded portion of the tie rod or it may cause damaged and need replacing. 7. Remove the anti-sway bar from the lower control arm. This would be a good time to replace the end link bushings with polyurethane replacement bushings. 8. If your vehicle is equipped with anti-lock brakes you must now disconnect the front rotor sensor from the dust shield or spindle and set it aside. 9. Disconnect your shock absorber completely from the vehicle whether it is mounted inside the coil spring or not. 10. Support the lower control arm with jack just touching the arm. This will prevent it from dropping when the ball joint is disconnected. 11. The use of a coil spring compressor is recommended before the following steps are taken. 12. Disconnect the upper ball joint from the top of the spindle using the proper tools. Do not hit the ball joint or the threaded end of the ball joint. Once the ball joint is free the spindle should move easily. 13. Be careful when lowering the lower control arm. The coil spring is under high compression and may shoot out when released. Do not stand near the side of the truck during this step. Lower the jack so that the lower control arm swings down. If the coil spring has not fallen out on it’s own you may need to use a pry bar from the front of the vehicle to remove it. 14. Note which end of the coil spring is “bottom” for installation. Also note the depression in the lower control arm. It is important that the last winding of the coil spring fit into the indentation completely so that the vehicle will sit level. Do not switch coil springs from side to side as some vehicles have a specific “right” and “left” coil spring. 15. Check the coil spacer for proper fitment into the coil spring mount in the frame. The flat part of the spacer should face up and touch the top of the spring mount. Some vehicles have guiding tabs to center the coil spring in its top mount. These tabs may have become bent and need to be bent back to allow the spacer to properly fit in the mount. 16. Install the coil spring with the spacer on top of it. If used the coil spring compressor should still be on the spring in a compressed state. If it is not you may need to compress the spring before re-installing. Make sure the spacer is centered in the upper mount and the bottom of the spring is properly nested in the receptor groove on the lower control arm. If you are installing a two-inch or taller spacer you may need a spring compressor. Follow all safety rules when installing the coil spring as it will be under extreme compression. 17. Raise the lower control arm with a jack once the coil spring and spacer are properly lined up. Raise until the spindle is high enough to bolt on the upper ball joint. Before bolting on the upper ball joint make sure the brake caliper and brake line are where they need to be since some brake lines run inside the spindle and outside the coil spring. 18. With the upper ball joint tight and a cotter pin re-installed you may now remove the jack from under the lower control arm. 19. Assemble all of the components previously removed (sway bar with new polyurethane bushings, tie rod ends with polyurethane grease boot, brake caliper and anti-lock sensor). Don’t forget the shock with a new colored boot while it is off. 20. Repeat instructions for other side. 21. After properly installing both spacers you can install your front tires and lower vehicle back to the ground. 22. Your vehicle may sit too high at first because the suspension needs to settle. Carefully back the vehicle up and drive forward a few times using the brakes frequently. Park on level ground and check out your lift. 23. The vehicle will now require a front wheel alignment. Failure to do so may result in severe wear on your tires and may pull to one direction

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Ford 2″ Coil Spring Spacer Kit with Stud Extenders INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 18-12-2011

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1. Read complete instructions and check Bill of Materials before beginning. 2. Raise the front of the vehicle and support the frame so that the front tires just touch the ground and remove the front tires. 3. Remove the lower shock bolts and the sway bar end link attaching points. 4. Remove the upper and the lower coil spring clamp bolt and nut with washer. See figure 1 and 2. 5. Force the axle half down so that the coil spring comes loose. 6. Remove the coil spring and the coil spring rubber isolator. See figure 3. 7. Install the corresponding Stud Extensions (if needed) onto the coil spring lower clamp stud and install the coil spring spacer onto the coil spring pad. See figure 4. 8. Install the coil spring onto the coil spring spacer and then into the frame. You may have to use a coil spring compressor. See figure 5. 9. Install the upper and the lower coil spring clamp bolt and nut with washer. Make sure that the coil spring is seated correctly into the upper frame. See figure 6 and 7. 10. Reconnect the sway bar end link attaching points and the shock nuts. 11. Torque all bolts and nuts to factory specifications. Re-torque all bolts and nuts after 500 miles. 12. Install front tires and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle onto the ground. 13. It is recommended that you have a front-end alignment Ford 2″ Coil Spring Spacer Kit with Stud Extenders INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 2″ Coil Spring Spacers Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Jeep Manuals) by admin on 19-12-2011

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FRONT 1. Read complete instructions before beginning installation, the following special tools are recommended: Coil spring compressor, floor jack, jack stands, and metric hand tools. 2. Jack the vehicle in the center of the front axle. 3. Support the vehicle by placing jack stands on the frame behind the control arms so that the front tire/wheels are off the ground freely. 4. Remove the front tires/wheels. 5. Remove the lower shock nuts that secure the shock to the axle on both sides. 6. Remove the coil springs. 7. Remove the upper coil spring isolator and install onto the coil spring spacers. 8. Starting on the left side of the vehicle install the coil spring spacer onto the frame. 9. Install the coil spring. Note the position of the spring as it seats into the lower coil spring isolator on the axle so that it is at its stop. It must be seated into the coil spring isolator. 10. In order to complete step # 9 on the right side of the vehicle you may have to use a coil spring compressor in order to install the coil spring. You may also disconnect the lower lateral track bar on the front end. 11. Jack the axle and reconnect the lower shock nuts that secure the shock to the axle. 12. Install the front tires/wheels. 13. Lower the vehicle onto the ground. 14. Torque all bolts to factory specifications and re-torque after 500 miles.. 15. Daystar recommends having the front end alignment checked after installing the coil spring spacer lift

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Dodge Ram 4WD Front Leveling Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (Dodge Manuals) by admin on 19-12-2011

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1. To begin installation, block rear wheels and apply parking brake so that the vehicle is stable and cannot roll forward or back. Lift front of the vehicle on appropriate lift points, such as the frame, and support the frame with jack stands on both passenger and driver sides. Remove front wheels. 2. Position a floor jack under the front axle and raise jack until it makes contact with the front axle. (See Figure 1) 3. On the drives side, place an index mark on the stock coil spring and another index mark directly across from the first mark on the lower coil spring perch. This will allow you to reinstall the stock coil spring in its original position. Repeat step 3 on passenger side. 4. Disconnect top nut on sway bar end links on driver and passenger side, set nut, retainer, and bushing aside. Pivot sway bar up and out of the way. (See Figure 1) 5. Disconnect nut from passenger side drag link (outer tie rod end). Hit steering knuckle with a hammer at the point where the drag link stud comes through. This will break the stud loose from the steering knuckle. Breaking the stud loose may require the use of a ball joint separator. Gently tap the stud down through the knuckle. Be careful not to harm the stud or stud threads. Moving this out of the way allows access to the passenger lower shock bolt. (See Figure 1) 6. On driver’s side, locate the top of shock absorber stud, located in the engine compartment. Remove the top nut, retainer washer, and grommet from the shock. (See Figure 2) NOTE: Save these parts, they will need to be reinstalled later. Repeat step 6 on passenger side. 7. On driver’s side, remove the (3) stock nuts from the upper shock tower and set upper shock tower aside for reinstallation later. (See Figure 3) Repeat step 7 on passenger side. 8. On driver’s side, remove bolt from the lower shock mount through access hole below the coil spring. Save hardware for reinstallation. Remove shock from access in engine compartment. (See Figure 4) Repeat step 8 on passenger side. 9. Carefully lower floor jack enough to allow the removal of the stock coil spring. On driver’s side, remove the coil spring and the rubber isolation pad and set aside for later reinstallation. Remove ring that retains the shock tower bolts and discard . Repeat step 9 on passenger side. NOTE: Removal of the passenger coil spring may require the use of a spring compressor. 10. Lower the floor jack to allow room for the stock coil spring and the new upper coil spacer. 11. On the driver side, place the isolation pad on top of the stock coil spring, place new coil spring spacer on top of isolator pad. Place the entire assembly into the stock spring location. Turn the spring so that it is lined up with index marks made in step 3. Line the spacer studs up with the holes in the shock tower. Raise the floor jack until new coil spring spacer seats into the upper stock location. (See Figure 5) Repeat step 11 on passenger side. 12. On the driver’s side, install the shock down through the engine compartment and secure the bottom of the shock into the stock location using the stock hardware. Tighten to 100 ft-lbs. Repeat step 12 on passenger side. 13. On the driver’s side, reinstall stock upper shock tower into stock location. Secure new coil spring spacer to upper shock mount using 3/8″ hardware provided with the kit. Torque to 35 ft-lbs.

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1993 Ford Escort CIRCUIT TEST J – FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT (RELAY AND INERTIA SWITCH)

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 19-01-2012

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resistance between test pin No. 22 and test pins No. 40 and 60. If resistance is less than 10,000 ohms, repair short circuit and repeat QUICK TEST. If resistance is 10,000 ohms or more, go to step 5). 5)Check Fuel Pump Circuit Continuity Turn ignition off. Leave fuel pump relay and PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between FUEL PUMP circuit at fuel pump relay wiring harness connector and test pin No. 22 at breakout box. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace PCM and repeat QUICK TEST. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open circuit and repeat QUICK TEST. 10)Code 95/542 A KOEO Code 95/542 indicates one of the following conditions: Engine Starts: * Fuel pump secondary circuit shorted to power. * Fuel pump relay contacts always closed. * Open FPM circuit between PCM and junction to POWER-TO-PUMP circuit. * Left/front HO2S short to power (dual HO2S applications). * Faulty PCM. No Start: * IFS switch circuit open or not reset. * Open circuit in or between PCM and fuel pump. * Faulty ground connection at fuel pump. * Faulty fuel pump. If engine starts, go to step 11). If engine does not start, go to step 15). 11)Check Fuel Pump Operation Turn ignition on. Wait 5 seconds. Listen for fuel pump operation. If fuel pump is off, go to step 13). If fuel pump is on, go to step 12). 12)Check For Fuel Pump Relay Always Closed Turn ignition off. Disconnect fuel pump relay. Turn ignition on. If fuel pump is off with relay disconnected, replace fuel pump relay and repeat QUICK TEST. If fuel pump is on with relay disconnected, repair short to power in POWER-TO-PUMP or FPM circuit. (For models with relay block, also check fuel pump prime plug circuit). Repeat QUICK TEST. 13)Check Continuity Of Fuel Pump Monitor (FPM) Circuit Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM 60-pin connector. Inspect and repair any damaged terminals. Install EEC-IV Breakout Box (T83L-50-EEC-IV) , leaving PCM disconnected. Disconnect fuel pump relay. Measure resistance between test pin No. 8 (No. 19 on Escort, and Tracer) at breakout box and POWER-TO-PUMP circuit at fuel pump relay wiring harness connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to step 25) (dual HO2S) or replace PCM and repeat QUICK TEST (single HO2S). If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open circuit and repeat QUICK TEST

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2006 Dodge Truck RAM 2500 DENSO A/C COMPRESSOR Service and Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Dodge Manuals) by admin on 23-01-2012

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DENSO A/C COMPRESSOR REMOVAL NOTE: * The compressor clutch assembly can be serviced with the refrigerant system fully-charged. * Typical A/C compressor shown in illustrations. 1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the accessory drive belt. 3. Disconnect the engine wire harness from the compressor clutch field coil connector (1) located on the top of the A/C compressor (5) . Remove the bolts that secure the A/C compressor to the engine and support the A/C compressor. 5. Carefully remove the compressor clutch field coil connector and wire lead from the connector bracket (2). 6. Remove the compressor shaft bolt (3). A band-type oil filter wrench or a strap wrench may be used to hold the clutch plate (4) from rotating during bolt removal. CAUTION: Do not pry between the clutch plate and the pulley and bearing assembly to remove the clutch plate from the compressor shaft as this may damage the clutch plate. NOTE: Use care not to lose any clutch shim(s) during removal of the clutch plate, as they may be reused during the clutch plate installation process. 7. Tap the clutch plate (2) lightly with a plastic mallet to release it from the splines on the compressor shaft (1) and remove the clutch plate and shim(s) (3). 8. Using snap ring pliers (2), remove the snap ring (1) that secures the pulley and bearing assembly (3) to the front of the A/C compressor and remove the pulley and bearing assembly. 9. Using snap ring pliers (Special Tool C-4574 or equivalent) (1), remove the snap ring (4) that secures the compressor clutch field coil (2) to the front of the A/C compressor (3) and remove the field coil. INSTALLATION NOTE: Typical A/C compressor shown in illustrations. 1. Align the dowel pin on the back of the compressor clutch field coil (2) with the hole in the front of the A/C compressor (3) and position the field coil onto the compressor. Be certain that the compressor clutch field coil wire lead is properly routed so that it is not pinched between the A/C compressor and the field coil. CAUTION: The snap ring must be fully and properly seated in the groove or it will vibrate out, resulting in a clutch failure and severe damage to the A/C compressor. NOTE: A new snap ring must be used to secure the compressor clutch field coil to the A/C compressor. The bevel side of the snap ring must face outward and both snap ring eyelets must be oriented to the right or to the left of the field coil dowel pin location on the A/C compressor. 2. Using snap ring pliers (Special Tool C-4574 or equivalent) (1), install the snap ring (4) that secures the compressor clutch field coil to the front of the A/C compressor. Be certain that the snap ring is fully and properly seated in the groove and oriented correctly. CAUTION: * Be certain to position the compressor clutch field coil wire lead so that

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