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how to change battery on 2012 durango

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2000 Dodge Dakota & Durango Power Windows ADJUSTMENTS

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ADJUSTMENTS WINDOWS Remove door trim panel. See DOOR TRIM PANEL under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Loosen bolts holding window to regulator. Raise window fully, seating window in frame. Tighten bolts. Install door trim panel. TROUBLE SHOOTING POWER WINDOWS On Dakota, inspect circuit breaker No. 20 (20-amp) in junction block. On Durango inspect circuit breaker No. 21 (25-amp) in junction block. On all models, junction block is located on left end of instrument panel. Inspect fuse No. 9 (40-amp on Dakota, 50-amp on Durango) in Power Distribution Center (PDC). PDC is located in left front corner of engine compartment. Inspect power window system ground circuit. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . SYSTEM TESTS ALL WINDOWS INOPERATIVE Dakota 1. Check circuit breaker for power window system. See TROUBLE SHOOTING . Replace circuit breaker as necessary. If circuit breaker is okay, go to next step. 2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove driver’s front power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 3 (Black wire) at driver power window switch wiring harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Black wire between driver power window 2000 Dodge Durango 2000 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT’ ‘Power Windows – Dakota & Durango 2000 Dodge Durango 2000 ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT’ ‘Power Windows – Dakota & Durango switch connector and ground. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . 3. Connect negative battery cable. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 5 (Tan wire) at driver’s power window switch wiring harness connector. If battery voltage is present, check driver power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under COMPONENT TESTS. If battery voltage is not present, repair open Tan wire between driver power window switch connector and ignition switch. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . See POWER DISTRIBUTION article in WIRING DIAGRAMS. Durango 1. Check circuit breaker for power window system. See TROUBLE SHOOTING . Replace circuit breaker as necessary. If circuit breaker is okay, go to next step. 2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove driver’s front power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. 3. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 5 (Black wire) at driver’s power window switch wiring harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Black wire between driver’s power window switch connector and ground. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . 4. Reconnect negative battery cable. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 4 (Tan wire) at driver’s power window switch wiring harness connector. If battery voltage is present, check driver’s power window switch. See POWER WINDOW SWITCH under COMPONENT TESTS. If battery voltage is not present, repair open Tan wire between driver power window switch connector and ignition switch. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . See POWER DISTRIBUTION article in WIRING DIAGRAMS. ONE WINDOW INOPERATIVE

2001 Dodge Durango BLOWER MOTOR RELAYS REPAIR MANUAL

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BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR 1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect blower motor resistor harness connector. Using DVOM, check for continuity between all blower motor resistor terminals. If continuity exists between all terminals, go to next step. If continuity does not exist between all terminals, replace faulty blower motor resistor. 2. Check for open or short in circuits between blower motor resistor and heater control panel. Also check for open or short in wire between blower motor resistor and blower motor. BLOWER MOTOR SWITCH 2000 Dakota, 2000 Durango & 2000-01 Ram Pickup 1. Remove Power Distribution Center (PDC) cover. Using DVOM, check for battery voltage at PDC fuse No. 5 (40-amp) on Dakota and Durango; PDC fuse No. 12 (40-amp) on Ram Pickup. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, check for open in Red wire between battery and underhood PDC. If Red wire is okay, replace underhood PDC. 2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove heater control panel. See HEATER CONTROL PANEL under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Disconnect heater control panel cable, electrical and vacuum connectors as necessary. Using DVOM, check for continuity between heater control panel harness connector terminal No. 7 (Black wire on Dakota and Durango; Black/Orange on Ram Pickup) and ground. See Fig. 5 . If continuity exists, go to step 4 . 3. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Black wire or Black/Orange wire between heater control panel 2001 Dodge Durango 2000-01 HEATER SYSTEMS’ ‘RWD Trucks & Vans harness connector terminal No. 7 and ground connector located at lower right corner of instrument panel (Dakota and Durango) or behind center of instrument panel (Ram Pickup). 4. Place heater mode control knob to any position except OFF. Using DVOM, check for continuity between heater control panel terminal No. 7 and terminals No. 3, 4, 5 and 6 while rotating blower motor switch. See Fig. 5 . 5. If continuity does not exist at any terminal, replace faulty heater control panel. If continuity exists as specified, check for open in circuits between heater control panel and blower motor resistor. Also check for an open in circuit between heater control panel and blower motor. See WIRING DIAGRAMS . Fig. 5: Identifying Heater Control Panel Blower Switch Connector Terminals (2000 Dakota & Durango Are Shown; Ram Pickup Is Similar) Courtesy of CHRYSLER CORP. Ram Van/Wagon 1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove heater control panel. See HEATER CONTROL PANEL under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. Disconnect heater control panel harness connectors. Using DVOM, check for continuity between heater control panel C3 harness connector terminal “C” (Black wire) and ground. See Fig. 6 . If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Black wire between heater control panel and ground connector located at lower right of steering column. 2. Place heater mode control selector to any position, except OFF. Using DVOM, check for continuity between appropriate terminals of heater control panel, for C3 connector terminals “B” (Violet wire) and “C” (Black wire). If continuity exists through heater control panel, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, replace faulty heater control panel assembly. 3. Using DVOM, check for continuity between heater control panel C3 connector terminal “B” (Violet wire) and C1 connector terminal “E” (Violet wire). See Fig. 6 . If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Violet wire between heater control panel C3 and C1 connectors.

1999 Chrysler LHS V6-3.5L VIN G Battery Replacement Manual

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Battery Replacement Notes WARNING: TO PROTECT THE HANDS FROM BATTERY ACID, A SUITABLE PAIR OF HEAVY DUTY RUBBER GLOVES, NOT THE HOUSEHOLD TYPE, SHOULD BE WORN WHEN REMOVING OR SERVICING A BATTERY. SAFETY GLASSES ALSO SHOULD BE WORN . REMOVAL 1. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. 2. Verify that the ignition switch and all accessories are OFF. 3. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable remote terminal from the remote battery post. 4. Remove air cleaner housing. 5. Remove battery splash shield. 6. Remove two short bolts to battery hold down. 7. Slide battery rearward to disconnect the negative and positive battery terminals from battery. 8. Slide battery toward rear of vehicle and lift out through wheel well opening. 9. Remove battery from vehicle. 1. Tighten clamp nuts to 8.5 N.m (75 in. lbs.) torque.INSTALLATION For installation, reverse the above procedures. Inspect and clean battery and attaching components before installation. WARNING: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN BATTERY CABLE CLAMPS, DAMAGE TO CLAMPS CAN RESULT .

Battery Electrical Drain/ Parasitic Load Test Repair Manual

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1. Disconnect the battery negative cable 2. Install the male end of the J 38758 to the negative battery terminal. 3. Turn OFF the test switch. 4. Install the negative battery cable to the female end of the test switch. 5. Install the Scan Tool (or equivalent) or wait for 20 minutes. 6. Turn ON the test switch. 7. Road test the vehicle while activating all accessories, including the radio and the air conditioning. 8. Lower the door glass, then exit the vehicle. Do not move the door handle after closing the door. 9. Open the hood. Important The power down timer will reset to 20 minutes if any wake up inputs are received by a Class 2 device (after the scan tool has put all Class 2 devices to sleep). 10. Put all of the Class 2 devices into the sleep mode. 11. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Remove the key. Important From this point on, electrical continuity must be maintained in the ground circuit of the battery through the Test Switch J 38758 in the ON position or through the ammeter J 39200 . 12. Components such as PCM, VCM, Automatic Air Conditioning, and the Truck Body Control Module have timers that draw several amps of current while they cycle down. This can give a false parasitic drain reading. Wait 20 minutes for these components to power down before continuing this test (or use the scan tool to put all Class 2 devices to sleep). 13. Connect a jumper wire with a 10 A fuse J 36169-A to the terminals of the test switch. 14. Turn the test switch to the OFF position. 15. Wait ten seconds. If the fuse does not blow, the current is less than 10 A. The ammeter can be used safely. 16. Before the fused jumper wire is removed, turn the test switch to the ON position. Important If an ammeter other than the J 39200 is used, ensure that the vehicle does not have a high current drain that would damage the ammeter when connected to the circuit. 17. Perform the following procedure in order to detect a high current drain: A. Set the ammeter J 39200 to the 10 A scale. B. Connect the ammeter to the test switch terminals. C. Turn OFF the test switch. This allows the current to flow through the ammeter. D. Wait one minute, then inspect the current reading. Ñ When there is a current reading of 2 A or less, turn ON the test switch, this maintains continuity in the electrical system. Ñ Then, switch the meter down to the 2 A scale, for a more accurate reading, when the test switch is reopened. E. Open the test switch. F. Take the reading in milliamps. G. Note the battery reserve capacity. Refer to Battery Usage . Ñ Divide this number by 4. Example: 90/4 = 22.5 Ñ Compare this to the ammeter reading. Ñ The current drain in milliamps should not exceed this number. Ñ Example: if a battery has a reserve capacity of 90 minutes, the current drain should not exceed 22 milliamps. H. When the current draw is too high, remove the electrical system fuses one at a time until the draw returns to a value less than or equal to specifications. Ñ Start with the fuses that are hot all the time. Ñ To remove the fuse, you must first open the door, which causes a high enough current flow to damage the ammeter. Ñ Protect the ammeter, without disturbing the electrical continuity, by turning ON the test tool before opening the door. Ñ Remove the courtesy lamp fuse. Ñ Note the ammeter reading. Ñ If the parasitic load is still excessive, start removing the remaining fuses one at a time. Ñ Keep the courtesy lamp fuse out during diagnosis, so the door can remain open. Ñ Perform Steps 11 through 13 each time a fuse is removed. I. Removing the PCM or VCM fuse should cause a drop of less than 10 milliamps. A drop greater than 10 milliamps indicates a possible short to ground. J. Check the orange wires along with the components connected to the orange wires. No drop in the milliampere reading indicates the PCM or VCM is not drawing current. K. Repeat the parasitic current drain test procedure after any repair has been completed. L. When the cause of the excessive current draw has been located and repaired, remove the ammeter and the parasitic draw test switch.

Ford Sierra Service and Repair Manual Download

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Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies. Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay. Identifying leaks The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running. Sump oil Gearbox oil Brake fluid Power steering fluid Oil from filter Antifreeze Engine oil may leak from the drain plug… …or from the base of the oil filter. Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this. Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts. A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid. Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack. 0•9 Roadside repairs When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: ? Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off. ? Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off. ? Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle. ? If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. ? Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission). Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: 1 The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. 2 The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). 3 The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out). Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery. Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started. 1 2 3 4 Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drive- belts or other moving parts of the engine. 5 Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection