how to take about a slave cylinder on a 98 chevy truck

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TOYOTA TO CHEVY AND BUICK ENGINE – TURBO CHARGED INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 20-09-2011

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: 1. Install the pilot bushing into the engine crank. 2. Bolt the flywheel to the engine crank using special flywheel bolts. 3. Assemble the clutch assembly and special disc to the flywheel using special clutch bolts. 4. Assemble the clutch release arm to the inside ball pivot of the bellhousing. 5. Bolt the slave cylinder to the outside of the bellhousing. 6. Test fit the bellhousing assembly over the clutch assembly and onto the engine block. 7. Place the N1430 release bearing onto the clutch arm fork. 8. Adjust the length of the slave cylinder push rod to a length that provides a minimum of 1/8″ clearance between the release bearing face and clutch fingers. 9. This test fit over the clutch assembly is primarily done for establishing the push rod length. If this procedure is eliminated, you will not have any visual inspection for verifying the push rod adjustment. 10. Remove the bellhousing assembly from the engine. 11. Bolt the bellhousing to the front of your Toyota 5 speed transmission using the original bolts. Make sure that the two dowel pins installed in the face of the 5 speed transmission are properly fitted to the Advance Adapter bellhousing. 12. Slide the new release bearing onto the Toyota bearing retainer. Make sure that there is grease in the internal cavity of the release bearing. Most new bearings are pre-lubricated. 13. With all the components in position, you can now bolt the new bellhousing assembly onto the engine block. We have provided six (6) new socket head bolts, 3/8″-16 x 1-1/2″ long for this purpose. Make sure the engine dowel pins are properly aligned with the new bellhousing dowel pin holes. DO NOT FORCE THE BELLHOUSING ONTO THE ENGINE BLOCK. Some applications may require the tip of the input shaft to be modified slightly. The bellhousing must fit evenly to the engine block. 14. With the bellhousing now in position and the slave cylinder push rod installed, you should be able to verify the clearance between the release bearing & clutch fingers. The lever should have movement of approximately 1/8″ to 1/4″. CAUTION : If you have too much clearance, you will be utilizing too much of the slave cylinder stroke and could possibly prevent you from obtaining a full clutch release. A light duty return spring attached to the clutch release arm will prevent any premature contact of the release bearing with the clutch fingers. 15. The Toyota Land Cruiser slave cylinder will replace the original Toyota slave cylinder. The Toyota truck hydraulic slave cylinder line will have exactly the same fitting size as used on the Land Cruiser slave cylinder. 16. With the new slave cylinder installed, you can now bleed the slave cylinder installation by pumping up the slave cylinder pedal. Most installations are compatible with the original Toyota master cylinder. We have encountered a few installations that require changing of the Toyota master cylinder to a smaller 3/4″ piston. If you have any type of clutch difficulty related to full disengagement of the clutch assembly, contact Advance Adapters for any updated information.

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1996 Ford Bronco/F-Series Clutch Hydraulic Line REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 30-04-2012

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Clutch Hydraulic Line Removal 1. Note the routing of the clutch slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder tube (7A512) line from clutch master cylinder (7A543) to the clutch slave cylinder. 2. Remove retainer pin from clutch master cylinder holding clutch slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder tube in place. 3. Raise the vehicle and install suitable safety stands. 4. Disconnect clutch slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder tube from external clutch slave cylinder. On vehicles equipped with concentric clutch slave cylinders, remove tube using Clutch Coupling Tool T88T-70522-A. Installation 1. Follow the removal procedures in reverse order. 2. Bleed system. Refer to appropriate clutch hydraulic system bleeding procedure in the Adjustments portion of this section.

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2004 Toyota Camry Disc Brake System Service/ Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 13-04-2012

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OVERHAUL HINT: Overhaul the RH side by the same procedures with LH side. REMOVE FRONT WHEEL 1. DRAIN BRAKE FLUID NOTICE: Wash off the brake fluid immediately if it comes into contact with a painted surface. 2. DISCONNECT FRONT FLEXIBLE HOSE 3. Remove the union bolt and a gasket from the disc brake cylinder, then disconnect the flexible hose from the disc brake cylinder. a. REMOVE DISC BRAKE CYLINDER ASSY FR LH 4. Remove the 2 bolts and disc brake cylinder. a. REMOVE DISC BRAKE PAD KIT FRONT (PAD ONLY) 5. Remove the 2 brake pads with anti-squeal shim. a. 6. Remove the 2 anti-squeal shims from each of 2 brake pads . a. Using a screwdriver, remove the wear indicator from each of 2 brake pads . b. REMOVE FRONT DISC BRAKE PAD SUPPORT PLATE 7. Remove the upper side front disc brake pad support plate. a. REMOVE FRONT DISC BRAKE PAD SUPPORT PLATE 8. Remove the bottom side front disc brake pad support plate. a. 10. Remove the cylinder slide bush from the cylinder slide pin. a. REMOVE FRONT DISC BRAKE BUSH DUST BOOT 11. Remove the 2 bush dust boots from the disc brake cylinder mounting. a. REMOVE FRONT DISC BRAKE CYLINDER MOUNTING LH 12. Remove the 2 bolts and disc brake cylinder mounting LH. a. 13. Using a screwdriver, remove the set ring and cylinder boot. a. REMOVE FRONT DISC BRAKE PISTON 14. Place a piece of cloth or similar, between the piston and the disc brake cylinder. a. Use compressed air to remove the piston from the disc brake cylinder. CAUTION: Do not place your fingers in front of the piston when using compressed air. NOTICE: Do not spatter the brake fluid . b. 2004 Toyota Camry L4-2.4L (2AZ-FE) REMOVE PISTON SEAL 15. Using a screwdriver, remove the piston seal from the disc brake cylinder. NOTICE: Do not damage the inner cylinder and the cylinder groove. a. REMOVE FRONT DISC BRAKE BLEEDER PLUG CAP 16. REMOVE FRONT DISC BRAKE BLEEDER PLUG 17. INSPECT BRAKE CYLINDER AND PISTON Check the cylinder bore and piston for rust and scoring 18.

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TOYOTA G52, G54, W56 & G58 (AX5) 5 SPEED TRANS. TO CHEVY AND BUICK ENGINES INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 10-11-2011

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This bellhousing is not compatible with transmissions that were previously equipped with diesel engines. The bellhousing design incorporates a special modified clutch release lever and a Toyota Land Cruiser slave cylinder. We have provided slave cylinder mounting on the passenger side of the bellhousing and have incorporated a new push rod location that will provide a quick short travel of the clutch release mechanism. The kit does not include the Toyota Land Cruiser slave cylinder, Part No. 31470-60022. The bellhousing is designed for the 153 tooth flywheel application. If your block is equipped with a 168 tooth flywheel, you will be required to use a high torque starter without a nose cone to fit the bellhousing (P/N 22-0001). The bellhousing is compatible with the Buick flywheel that has 160 teeth. A slight modification may be required in the starter pocket area when using the Buick installation. The inside of the bellhousing uses a high profile Centerforce diaphragm clutch assembly. By using this pressure plate, you can be sure that the slave cylinder travel will be appropriate for obtaining a maximum clutch release. The release bearing, Part No. N1430, is a standard flat faced Chevy release bearing. The bearing must not have continual contact with the fingers of the clutch. Adjust the length of your push rod for clearance between the fingers and the face of bearing. In order to adjust the height of the release bearing, we recommend that you install the new bellhousing over the clutch assembly and onto the engine prior to assembling the transmission to the bellhousing. By doing this procedure, you will be able to install the clutch release lever, slave cylinder, slave cylinder push rod, and release bearing directly to the clutch assembly. The reason this is necessary is that there are variations as to the thickness of the flywheel which either raise or lower the fingers of the clutch as related to the release bearing. The push rod of the slave cylinder can be adjusted, to obtain the necessary clearance between the release bearing and clutch fingers. If the bearing is permitted continual contact on the fingers, then you will have premature release bearing failure. We do not furnish a rubber boot for the area between the bellhousing and clutch arm since it is too restrictive for the clutch arm movement. We believe that the location of the opening is such that any dust or other debris will have a hard time accessing the opening. If you anticipate water hazards, we would recommend a small rubber flapper that could be screwed to the outside of the bellhousing.

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1996 Ford Bronco/ F-Series Clutch Hydraulic Line REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 08-02-2012

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Clutch Hydraulic Line Removal 1. Note the routing of the clutch slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder tube (7A512) line from clutch master cylinder (7A543) to the clutch slave cylinder. 2. Remove retainer pin from clutch master cylinder holding clutch slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder tube in place. 3. Raise the vehicle and install suitable safety stands. 4. Disconnect clutch slave cylinder to clutch master cylinder tube from external clutch slave cylinder. On vehicles equipped with concentric clutch slave cylinders, remove tube using Clutch Coupling Tool T88T-70522-A. Installation 1. Follow the removal procedures in reverse order. 2. Bleed system. Refer to appropriate clutch hydraulic system bleeding procedure in the Adjustments portion of this section. Hydraulic Clutch Control System, 4.9L, 5.0L and 5.8L Gasoline Engines with Mazda R2 and S5-47 ZF Light-Duty and 7.3L and 7.5L S5-47 ZF Heavy-Duty Transmissions

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TOYOTA TACOMA DC XSB RETRACTABLE HARD TRUCK BED COVERS INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 26-09-2011

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STEP 1: POSITIONING CANISTER Remove the top cover from the canister box and set it aside for later installation. Perform a quick inventory to insure all parts are there. Be sure to check inside the small cardboard box for parts. Remove the Canister from the box and set it in the truck bed against the cab. The canister should be resting on the canister end plates and be centered in the truck bed. DO NOT USE A KNIFE TO OPEN THE RAIL BOX. OPEN THE RAIL BOX ALONG THE LENGTH OF THE BOX AND LIFT RAILS OUT TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE SURFACE OF THE RAILS ON THE PACKAGE STAPLES. CAUTION! Canister End Plates INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Slide the four (4) Inner Rail Clamps (2 on each side) through the Tie Down Bars of the truck. (Figure 2B) Place the Outer Angled Rail Clamps on the Inner Rail Clamps (MAKE SURE THE NARROWER EDGE IS DOWN ON THE OUTER ANGLED RAIL CLAMPS) loosely fasten the clamps in place with the 1/4″ Washer, 1/4″ Lock Washer and Rail Clamp Nut on both sides of the truck bed. The fi rst clamp should be placed about 6 inches from the canister (closest to truck cab). The second clamp assembly should be about 4 inches from the end of the Tie Down Bar (closest to the tailgate). Open the rail box along the length of the box, lift rails out to avoid scratching the rail surface on the package staples. The side rails are marked “left” and “right” (left is the driver’s side of the truck). Then Slide Rail Clamp Bracket A on each Rail followed by Rail Clamp Bracket B. Rail Clamp Bracket A should be closest to the Cab of the truck. At this time you will need to install the taligate end of the pull strap to the underside of the drivers side rail using the #8-32 x 3/4 machine screw that is already located at the tailgate end on the underside of the rail. (Figure 2A) Now, with the tailgate closed, place the side rails in position on the truck bed with the Rail Clamp Brackets A & B resting on the Outer Angled Rail Clamps. Loosely assemble the Rail Clamp Brackets to the Outer Angled Rail Clamps with the 1/4″ Washer, 1/4″ Lock Washer and 1/4-20 x 1/2″ Bolt on each side of the truck bed. Center the Rails in the Truck bed. Check spacing in the truck bed between the Left and Right Rails. Spacing should be 51 3/4″. Once correct spacing is achieved tighten the Rail Clamp Brackets A & B only in place Correct spacing to the tailgate should be 1/16″ to prevent the tailgate from striking the side rails when closing. Tighten the Set Screws on both Rail Clamp Bracket A to hold rails in position. ( Adjust spacing from the tailgate by moving rails forward or backward as needed prior to fi nal tightening of set screws .) Apply downward pressure while tightening the Outer Angled Rail Clamp to the Inner Rail Clamp, especially on the tailgate end. This will ensure a tight seal, fi rm seat, and good fi t on the truck bed

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1999 Ford Escort/ Tracer Cylinder Head Removal And Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 24-04-2012

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Removal 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301). For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 . 2. WARNING: Fuel supply lines will remain pressurized for long periods of time after engine shut down. This pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines or fuel system components. Relieve the fuel system pressure. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 . 3. Remove the engine air cleaner outlet tube. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 . 4. Remove the timing belt. For additional information, refer to Timing Drive Components—Timing Belt in this section. 5. Remove the vacuum hoses at the: * positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve (6A666). * throttle body (9E926). * intake manifold (9424). * fuel pressure sensor. 6. Disconnect the fuel charging wiring (9D930) electrical connectors at main engine connector. 7. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor electrical connector. 8. Disconnect the fuel line. For additional information, refer to Section 303-04 . 9. Remove the power steering pump (3A674) and bracket as an assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 211-02 . 10. Remove the generator (GEN). For additional information, refer to Section 414-02 . 11. Remove the oil level indicator tube (6754). For additional information, refer to Oil Level Indicator and Tube in this section. 12. Disconnect the heater hoses. For additional information, refer to Section 412-02 . 13. Lower the vehicle. 14. Disconnect the upper radiator hose (8260) from the thermostat housing water hose connection. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 . 15. Remove the camshafts (6250). For additional information, refer to Camshaft in this section. 16. Remove the ignition coil (12029) and bracket. For additional information, refer to Section 303-07 . 17. Remove the water thermostat housing. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 . 18. Disconnect the knock sensor electrical connector. 19. Remove the generator bracket-to-cylinder head bolt. 20. Remove the bolts and the cylinder head (6049). 21. Remove the cylinder head gasket and discard. Installation WARNING: Do not smoke or carry lighted tobacco or open flame of any type when working on or near any fuel related components. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited, resulting in possible personal injury. 1. CAUTION: Do not use abrasive grinding discs to remove gasket material; use only plastic manual scrapers. Do not scratch or gouge the aluminum sealing surfaces. Clean all gasket material from the mating surfaces on the cylinder head and cylinder block. Clean out the bolt holes in the cylinder block. Inspect the cylinder head for flatness. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00 . 2. Install a new head gasket on the cylinder block. 3. CAUTION: Do not attempt to install the cylinder head assembly without assistance. Installation of the cylinder head assembly requires two people or possible injury may occur. CAUTION: The bolts are torque-to-yield and must be replaced or engine damage may occur. Tighten the bolts in three stages in the sequence shown. * Stage 1: Tighten the bolts to 15-25 Nm (12-18 lb-ft). * Stage 2: Tighten the bolts to 35-45 Nm (26-33 lb-ft). * Stage 3: Tighten the bolts an additional 105 degrees. 4. Install the generator bracket-to-cylinder head bolt. * Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft). 5. Connect the knock sensor electrical connector. 6. Install the thermostat housing. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 . 7. Install the ignition coil and bracket. For additional information, refer to Section 303-07 . 8. Install the camshafts. For additional information, refer to Camshaft in this section. 9. Connect the upper radiator hose. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 . 10. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 . 11. Install the heater hoses. For additional information, refer to Section 412-02 . 12. Install the generator and bracket assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 414-02 . 13. Install the power steering pump and bracket assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 211-02 . 14. Connect the fuel lines. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00 . 15. Connect the crankshaft sensor electrical connector.

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1996 Nissan Altima GLE TIMING CHAIN REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Nissan Manuals) by admin on 24-02-2011

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Removal 1. Release fuel pressure. See FUEL PRESSURE RELEASE . Drain coolant from radiator and cylinder block. Drain engine oil. Disconnect all necessary coolant hoses, electrical connectors, vacuum hoses, fuel lines and control cables. 2. Remove front exhaust tube. Remove intake manifold collector supports, and intake manifold. Remove exhaust manifold with catalytic converter. Remove air injection valve pipe. Remove intake air duct. Remove radiator fan and shroud. Remove injectors and fuel rail as an assembly. Remove distributor cap and spark plugs. 3. Set cylinder No. 1 at TDC of compression stroke, ensuring marks on crankshaft pulley and front cover align, and distributor rotor points to spark plug wire No. 1 on cap. Remove cylinder head cover. Remove distributor. 4. Prevent camshafts from turning, and remove camshaft sprocket bolts. Remove camshaft sprocket. See Fig. 13 . Mark and remove camshaft bearing caps in reverse order of installation. See Fig. 16 . Remove camshafts. 5. Loosen cylinder head bolts in 2 or 3 steps, in reverse order of tightening sequence. See Fig. 11 . Remove camshaft sprocket cover. Remove outer (upper) chain tensioner and guide. Remove outer timing chain. Remove idler sprocket bolt. Remove cylinder head. 6. Remove oil pan and oil strainer. See OIL PAN. Remove accessory drive belts. Remove A/C compressor idler pulley (if equipped). Remove crankshaft pulley. Remove front cover. Remove chain tensioner, tensioner arm and chain guides. Remove inner (lower) timing chain and idler sprocket. Remove oil pump drive spacer and crankshaft sprocket. Inspection 1. Inspect chain roller links. Replace chain if roller links are cracked or worn. Inspect cylinder head and cylinder block mating surfaces for warpage. If warpage exceeds specification, machine cylinder head. See CYLINDER HEAD under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS. 2. If machining reduces cylinder head height to less than specification, replace cylinder head. After machining, rotate camshaft by hand. Replace cylinder head if camshaft does not rotate freely.

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2001 Pontiac Sunfire L4-2.2L VIN 4 Cylinder Head Removal And Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Pontiac Manuals) by admin on 11-06-2012

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Cylinder Head Replacement * Tools Required * J28467-360 Engine Support Fixture * J36660-A Torque Angle Meter. Removal Procedure 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. 3. Drain cooling system . 4. Remove the alternative fuel module assembly. Remove the drive belt . 5. Remove the air cleaner outlet duct and resonator assembly. 6. Support engine using floor jack and block of wood. 7. Remove the engine mount . 3. Remove the intake manifold . 9. Remove the exhaust manifold 10. Disconnect the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor ( ECT ) electrical connection. 11. Remove the valve rocker arm cover. Important: When removing valve train components keep them in order. Do this to ensure that the components are installed in the same locations and with the same mating surfaces as when removed. 12. Remove the rocker arms and pushrods. 13. Remove the generator. 14. Remove the generator rear brace. 15. Remove the power steering pump. Position the pump aside with the lines attached. 16. Remove the radiator inlet pipe. 17. Remove the ignition coil assembly. 18. Remove the accessory bracket. 19. Disconnect the secondary ignition wires from the spark plugs . 20. Remove the cylinder head bolts. 21. Remove the cylinder head. 22. Clean the following components: * Head gasket surface * Valve rocker arm cover gasket surface * Threads Installation Procedure Important: Install the cylinder head gasket with the words THIS SIDE UP showing. Do not use sealer on the gasket. 1. Install the cylinder head gasket to the block. 2. Use a socket in order to push the cylinder head gasket over the rear dowel pin Important: Install the cylinder head gasket with the words THIS SIDE UP showing. Do not use sealer on the gasket. 1. Install the cylinder head gasket to the block. 2. Use a socket in order to push the cylinder head gasket over the rear dowel pin

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FORD 4-PANEL With New Automatic Latch System Truck WITH Factory Tailgate Lock CLASS 3 Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 10-04-2012

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1) Clean rail surfaces really well with denatured alcohol and make sure they are dry. 2) Press Gasket down firmly the entire length of the gasket 1) Use thin foam double stick tape to hold the clamped hardware in place on inside side rails. The reason we suggest you use this foam is that it is just an extra added protection to keep your clamped hardware from shifting on the sometimes slick surface of some sprayed-in bedliners. • ALL HARDWARE PROVIDED: Stainless steel nuts (18) Part # 9723 or 9723-A – Low Profile Cast aluminum “C” Clamps (16 of them) The only difference with 9723 and 9723-A is that A is a little deeper “C” clamp which is required on some trucks because of the way the inside rail is made. These cast aluminum “C” clamps uninstalled are about the size of a 1 dollar coin and about ¾ inch thick. Part # 9724-T : Latch Installation Tape – (4 pcs.) Part # 9724 – Latch Catch Bracket (4) – These are angled pieces of metal that give your cover’s latches something to “latch to” and are installed with “C” clamps. Part # 9731 – Center Latch Catches (2) Part # 9736 – D Shaped Seals (2) – Described Above Part # 9714 or 9758 – Stainless Steel Screws (18) (Depending on “C” clamps required above) Part # ST-114 – Keyhole Bracket (2) (Mounted at the Hinge closest to the cab of the truck on the inside of the side rail of the truck at that hinge point). Part # 9727 – Box Seal (2) – Described above INSTALLATION OVERVIEW: 1) Measure and make your marks for your masking tape to put your gaskets on each side. 2) Put down masking tape the entire length of the truck 3) Follow masking tape and install peel and stick gaskets (don’t trim in the rear just yet). 4) Place cover onto truck (you will use the measurements provided to make sure the cover is located exactly in the right position 5) Install Keyhole Bracket (holds the 3rd Leg Hinge) Explanation of 3rd Leg Hinge : • 3rd Leg hinge is a flap of metal that is integrated into the hinge • This flap is on the first hinge right behind the cab of the truck • When you mount the cover, this flap hangs straight down, and slides right into the keyhole bracket 6) Install two “C” Clamps to each Keyhole bracket to secure to the truck 7) Install your stainless steel bolt with lock nut that secures the 3rd Leg Hinge (the flap) into the keyhole bracket on each side. That is “your” permanent point of attachment. (THESE ARE THE SAME TWO BOLTS THAT YOU REMOVE TO TAKE OFF THE COVER) *Remember, the cover is now “installed” and cannot slide around – so you MOUNT ALL THE HARDWARE TO FIT THE COVER from here on out 8) Attach center latch catch on inside of side rails using “C” Clamps. *Center Latch Catch: holds center hinge and the 2 panels in the middle down when the cover is closed. When you close the last panel flat onto the tailgate, a stainless steel “button” along each side of the cover is depressed between the 2 panels at the hinge. When this button is squeezed, it actually pushes a stainless steel latch towards the front of the truck catching the center latch on each side rail. 9) Attach Rear Latch Catch Brackets* using “C” Clamps * These are angled pieces of metal that give your cover’s latches something to “latch to” and are installed with “C” clamps. 10) Install Front Latch Catch Brackets using “C” clamps 11) THIS STEP IS ONLY FOR THE Ford F250/F350 SuperDuty Installations ONLY: The outer seal that comes with your cover and is attached on this rail is called a “Side Box Seal” Because the plastic Ford rails on the SuperDuty are ridged/grooved a little deeper and wider than those on the other Ford trucks, a set of small matte black screws are used in addition to the adhesive on the seal to ensure a snug fit. These screws only slightly penetrate the plastic side rail cover and do not come in contact with the underlying metal side rail

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