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how to wire a multi battery isolator

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MULTI-BATTERY ISOLATOR APPLICATION INSTALLATION MANUAL

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PLEASE READ INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY PRIOR TO STARTING INSTALLATION 4 3 2 1 GROUP GROUP GROUP GROUP General Motors (Delcotron/Delphi) Except Delcotron/Delphi CS series alternators (CS series used on most 1985 and newer GM vehicles). Ford Up to 1998 Chrysler All models, all years including Nippondenso externally regulated alternators. Jeep Equipped with Nippondenso externally regulated alternators Japanese Imports With alternators using external voltage regulator or external sensing. Motorola Load Handler Series or 8EM Remote Sense Series General Motors (Delcotron/Delphi) Equipped with Delcotron/Delphi CS series (most 1985 – 1993) or CS130-D series alternators (most 1993 and newer***) Jeep Vehicles equipped with Delcotron/Delphi CS series alternator (most 1985-1990). Toyota, Honda & Some Imports 1985 and newer equipped with Nippondenso alternator with internal regulators or alternators with an “S” (sense) terminal. Motorola Other than Load Handler Series Bosch Requiring regulator sensing A Group 3 Isolator will have a colored fourth terminal indicating the “R” terminal. Unplugging the plug-in connector from the alternator and counting the number of holes in the connector can identify the CS series alternator. The CS series will have three small and one large hole. The CS130-D alternator has four pin terminals all the same size. The SI series will have two slotted holes in the connector. ***Delco/Delphi CS series alternators require a separate sense wire which is included with the connector kit. The connector kit may or may not be included with the Isolator, but is available as an accessory. All Group 2 Isolators may be used in Group 1 applications. Simply disregard the additional excitation (“E”) terminal. A Group 2 Isolator will have a colored fourth terminal indicating the “E” terminal. Battery Isolators are not compatible with these alternators. A Battery Separator is recommended for these applications. Alternators with internal voltage sensing, e. g. some Mitsubishi and Hitachi , or single wire self exciting Delco/Delphi alternators. Isolators may be used if the alternator is modified. For further information on Group 4 Isolation Technolgy contact Sure Power Industries.

Battery Electrical Drain/ Parasitic Load Test Repair Manual

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1. Disconnect the battery negative cable 2. Install the male end of the J 38758 to the negative battery terminal. 3. Turn OFF the test switch. 4. Install the negative battery cable to the female end of the test switch. 5. Install the Scan Tool (or equivalent) or wait for 20 minutes. 6. Turn ON the test switch. 7. Road test the vehicle while activating all accessories, including the radio and the air conditioning. 8. Lower the door glass, then exit the vehicle. Do not move the door handle after closing the door. 9. Open the hood. Important The power down timer will reset to 20 minutes if any wake up inputs are received by a Class 2 device (after the scan tool has put all Class 2 devices to sleep). 10. Put all of the Class 2 devices into the sleep mode. 11. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Remove the key. Important From this point on, electrical continuity must be maintained in the ground circuit of the battery through the Test Switch J 38758 in the ON position or through the ammeter J 39200 . 12. Components such as PCM, VCM, Automatic Air Conditioning, and the Truck Body Control Module have timers that draw several amps of current while they cycle down. This can give a false parasitic drain reading. Wait 20 minutes for these components to power down before continuing this test (or use the scan tool to put all Class 2 devices to sleep). 13. Connect a jumper wire with a 10 A fuse J 36169-A to the terminals of the test switch. 14. Turn the test switch to the OFF position. 15. Wait ten seconds. If the fuse does not blow, the current is less than 10 A. The ammeter can be used safely. 16. Before the fused jumper wire is removed, turn the test switch to the ON position. Important If an ammeter other than the J 39200 is used, ensure that the vehicle does not have a high current drain that would damage the ammeter when connected to the circuit. 17. Perform the following procedure in order to detect a high current drain: A. Set the ammeter J 39200 to the 10 A scale. B. Connect the ammeter to the test switch terminals. C. Turn OFF the test switch. This allows the current to flow through the ammeter. D. Wait one minute, then inspect the current reading. Ñ When there is a current reading of 2 A or less, turn ON the test switch, this maintains continuity in the electrical system. Ñ Then, switch the meter down to the 2 A scale, for a more accurate reading, when the test switch is reopened. E. Open the test switch. F. Take the reading in milliamps. G. Note the battery reserve capacity. Refer to Battery Usage . Ñ Divide this number by 4. Example: 90/4 = 22.5 Ñ Compare this to the ammeter reading. Ñ The current drain in milliamps should not exceed this number. Ñ Example: if a battery has a reserve capacity of 90 minutes, the current drain should not exceed 22 milliamps. H. When the current draw is too high, remove the electrical system fuses one at a time until the draw returns to a value less than or equal to specifications. Ñ Start with the fuses that are hot all the time. Ñ To remove the fuse, you must first open the door, which causes a high enough current flow to damage the ammeter. Ñ Protect the ammeter, without disturbing the electrical continuity, by turning ON the test tool before opening the door. Ñ Remove the courtesy lamp fuse. Ñ Note the ammeter reading. Ñ If the parasitic load is still excessive, start removing the remaining fuses one at a time. Ñ Keep the courtesy lamp fuse out during diagnosis, so the door can remain open. Ñ Perform Steps 11 through 13 each time a fuse is removed. I. Removing the PCM or VCM fuse should cause a drop of less than 10 milliamps. A drop greater than 10 milliamps indicates a possible short to ground. J. Check the orange wires along with the components connected to the orange wires. No drop in the milliampere reading indicates the PCM or VCM is not drawing current. K. Repeat the parasitic current drain test procedure after any repair has been completed. L. When the cause of the excessive current draw has been located and repaired, remove the ammeter and the parasitic draw test switch.

Battery Electrical Drain/ Parasitic Load Test

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1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. 2. Install the male end of the J 38758 to the negative battery terminal. 3. Turn OFF the test switch. 4. Install the negative battery cable to the female end of the test switch. 5. Install the Scan Tool (or equivalent) or wait for 20 minutes. 6. Turn ON the test switch. 7. Road test the vehicle while activating all accessories, including the radio and the air conditioning. 8. Lower the door glass, then exit the vehicle. Do not move the door handle after closing the door. 9. Open the hood. Important The power down timer will reset to 20 minutes if any wake up inputs are received by a Class 2 device (after the scan tool has put all Class 2 devices to sleep). 10. Put all of the Class 2 devices into the sleep mode. 11. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Remove the key. Important From this point on, electrical continuity must be maintained in the ground circuit of the battery through the Test Switch J 38758 in the ON position or through the ammeter J 39200 . 12. Components such as PCM, VCM, Automatic Air Conditioning, and the Truck Body Control Module have timers that draw several amps of current while they cycle down. This can give a false parasitic drain reading. Wait 20 minutes for these components to power down before continuing this test (or use the scan tool to put all Class 2 devices to sleep). 13. Connect a jumper wire with a 10 A fuse J 36169-A to the terminals of the test switch. 14. Turn the test switch to the OFF position. 15. Wait ten seconds. If the fuse does not blow, the current is less than 10 A. The ammeter can be used safely. 16. Before the fused jumper wire is removed, turn the test switch to the ON position. Important

Toyota Landcruiser / Scout Weatherproof Harness Wire Harness Installation Instructions

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Grounding the Automobile A perfectly and beautifully wired automobile will nevertheless have bugs and problems if everything is not properly grounded. Do not go to the careful effort of installing a quality wire harness only to neglect proper grounding. Note: The Painless Wire Harness Kit includes no ground wire except the black wire from the two headlamp connectors. You must supply ground wire (14-16 gauge) for all circuits. 6.3.1 Connect a Ground Strap or Cable (2-gauge minimum) from the Negative Battery terminal to the automobile chassis (frame). 6.3.2 Connect a Ground Strap from the Engine to the chassis (even a 10-gauge wire is too small) . DO NOT RELY UPON THE MOTOR MOUNTS TO MAKE THIS CONNECTION . 6.3.3 Connect a Ground Strap from the Engine to the Body. 6.3.4 If you have a fiberglass body you should install a terminal block to ground all your Gauges and Accessories. Ground the Terminal Block with at least a 12-gauge wire to the chassis. 6.4 Terminal Installation and Making Connections Note: In the following steps you will be making the circuit connections. Before you start, you should carefully read Sections 7.0 through 10.0 , as appropriate, and continually refer to Section 10.0 , DOUBLE- CHECKING your routing and length calculations before cutting any wires and making connections. Give special attention to Turn Signal and Ignition Switch connections. These can be somewhat confusing. 6.4.1 Have all needed tools and connectors handy. 6.4.2 Select the correct size terminal for the wire and stud application. 6.4.3 Determine the correct wire length and cut the wire. Remember to allow enough slack in the harness and wires at places where movement could possibly occur, such as automobile body to frame, frame to engine, etc. Double-check your calculations. 6.4.4 Strip insulation away from wire. Strip only enough necessary for the type of terminal lug you are using. Note: In the following step, make sure that the terminal is crimped with the proper die in the crimping tool. An improper crimp will NOT make a good connection. 6.4.5 Crimp the terminal onto the wire. CAUTION: DO NOT OVER-CRIMP! 6.4.6 Connecting the harness throughout the groups is a redundant process. Make sure that each wire is FIRST properly routed and THEN attach. DO NOT ATTACH FIRST THEN ROUTE AFTERWARD. 6.4.7 When all wires are attached, tighten the mounts and ties to secure harness permanently. 6.5 Testing The System 6.5.1 Use a small (10 amp or less) battery charger to power up the vehicle for circuit testing. If there is a problem anywhere, the battery charger’s low amperage and internal circuit breaker will provide circuit protection. CAUTION: IF YOU HAVE NOT YET DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY FROM THE AUTOMOBILE, DO SO NOW! DO NOT CONNECT THE BATTERY CHARGER WITH THE BATTERY CONNECTED. Connect the battery charger’s NEGATIVE output to the automobile chassis or engine block and its POSITIVE output to the automobile’s positive battery terminal. 6.5.2 INDIVIDUALLY turn on each light, ignition, wiper circuit, etc. and check for proper operation. Note: The turn signals will not flash properly if you do not have both the front and rear bulbs installed and connected. 6.5.3 When all circuits check out THEN attach the battery cable to the battery for vehicle operation

Ford Windstar 3.8L The battery light is on but the alternator is charging Service Manual

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Procedures 1. Disconnect the alternator and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Check the Violet (VT) (GENerator MONitor or GENMON) wire from the alternator to pin 20 of the PCM connector and the Red/Pink (RD/PK) (GENerator COMmand or GENCOM) wire from the alternator to pin 45 of the PCM for high resistance, an open, or a short to ground. Repair the wiring as needed. 2. If the wiring checks OK, reconnect the PCM and alternator. Start the engine and monitor the VT wire for a roughly 0-10v square wave signal. The signal will be around 40-50% normally with no loads on the system and minimal charging system output. As the load increases, the duty cycle should increase (NOTE: the duty cycle is a positive duty cycle so as the duty cycle increases, the voltage high time increases). 3. If there is no signal on the wire, disconnect the alternator and with key on check the VT wire for roughly 9-10v from the PCM. If OK, jump the Orange/Light Blue (OG/LB) wire to battery voltage and recheck operation with everything connected. This wire should be battery voltage at all time. If the OG/LB wire has battery voltage, the VT wire shows voltage from the PCM but there is no signal on it with the alternator charging, suspect a faulty, defective or incorrect alternator