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RICHMOND GEAR INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 19-03-2012

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VERIFY RATIO BEFOREASSEMBLY STEP 1 . Remove the gears to be replaced and thoroughly clean both the gear carrier and housing with solvent to remove any gear/bearing residue, which could lead to abrasive failure of the new gear set. After cleaning, dry- wipe (or air-dry) all disassembled parts, housings, and covers. STEP 2. Examine the ring gear mounting surface for nicks or burrs which might prevent total landing of the newly installed ring gear. Ring/pinion tooth depth variations can result from a ring gear that is “cocked”on its mounting surface. If a ring gear spacer is to be used, also check it for similar surface imperfections, dressing these with block backed pieces of grit paper or a small file. Following material removal (from ANY part of the assembly), bathe the pieces in the solvent and wipe or air-dry. NOTE: Spacers not normally recommended STEP 3. Study the illustrations provided with these instructions. Familiarize yourself with the terms “backlash”and “pinion depth” (sometimes called checking distance). Each set of gears is a matched pair which has been prerun on a gear test machine. Consequently, the pair should never be mixed with other rings or pinions, Also, since all gear sets have been run-checked, specific settings are supplied with each ring/pinion pair. These specifications vary from set to set. Backlash settings are marked on the outside diameter face of the ring gear as follows (see illustration A): Ref: BL.008, which means a backlash figure of .008 inch at the closest point. Pinion depth settings (or checking distance) are marked on the face of the pinion gear as follows (see illustration B): Ref: CD 2.799, which means distance of 2.799 inches from centerline of the ring gear to pinion face. Dimensional variations for backlash SHOULD NOT EXCEED .004″variation. Example: If backlash is .008, the backlash — including maximum variation — should be .008-.012. 1 Illustration B Location of checking distance (pinion depth) & serial no. on pinion Location of backlash dimension & gear serial no. on ring gear Illustration A STEP 4. When installing the pinion gear you must check its depth in the housing as per the pinion depth dimension. Add or subtract pinion depth shims to arrive at the checking distance etched on the surface of the pinion face. (See illustration C.). Refer to Helpful Hints & Additions to Richmond Gear Installation Instructions on pages 3 and 4. STEP 5. Using a mew crush collar or preload shim pack, set the pinion rotating torque to 10-15 (used bearings) 20-25 (new bearings) inch pounds. For oval track applications when not using a cooling pump, set at 16- 17 inch pounds on new bearings and 10 inch pounds maximum on used bearings. STEP 6. After correct installation of the pinion gear, position the ring gear and check for backlash. Mount a magnetic-base dial indicator on the axle housing in such a way that the indicator plunger will be moving in a line that is tangent to rotation of the ring gear. This will provide you with a backlash reading which should conform to the figure etched on the side of the ring gear. Again, maintain a tolerance of .004 variation. Example: If backlash is .008, the backlash – including maximum variation – should be .008-.012. (Backlash is always measured in 3 or more places equally spaced around in the ring gear.) Note: For oval track racing set BL at approximately .012-.014 inches. STEP 7. Compensation for variations in this setting can be made by side-adjustment of the ring gear. Adjusting rings or side-shim packs can be changed to bring the backlash and rotating torque figures into tolerance. (Use same torque on gear bearings as on pinion bearings.) You are now ready to check the tooth contact pattern to assure that no accidental departures from the factory- marked specifications have been made. Apply a thin coat of RICHMOND GEAR compound (“Part # 55-0001- 1″) on gear teeth for best results. Tooth contact patterns should comply with those shown on next page. (Note rounded or bullet nose shape at heel end of pattern on Gear drive sides). See page 4 for patterns and additional installation hints

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1999-2006 TOYOTA TUNDRA FRONT LEVELING SYSTEM FOR THE 6-LUG SUSPENSION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 04-12-2011

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1. To begin installation, block the rear tires of the vehicle so that the vehicle is stable and can’t roll backwards. Safely lift the front of the vehicle and support the frame with jack stands. Place jack stands on both the driver and the passenger sides of the vehicle. Next remove the wheels from both sides. 2. Using a 17mm socket, remove the lower sway bar link bolt from both sides. HINT: If the stud turns together with the nut use a hex wrench or vice grips to hold the stud . 4. Next remove the strut’s lower mounting bolt with a 19 mm socket and wrench. NOTE: Once the nut is removed, it may be necessary to use a punch and hammer to free the bolt. 5. Remove the nuts from the three upper strut mounting bolts with a 14 mm ratchet. Be sure to support the strut assembly as the nuts are removed to prevent it from falling. 6. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle and mount it in a bench vise. Install the steel strut extension on the top of the strut assembly. ** Caution: Use the factory nuts with the factory studs** 7. Run down nuts snug with end wrench. Torque to OEM specs. NOTE: Because of the shape of the steel spacer the strut will be rotated 180° when reinstalled. 8. Place strut back into upper strut mount. Tighten provided nuts snug with a 14mm wrench or ratchet (after install, you will torque to OEM specs). 9. Use a pry bar to position the lower control arm and the strut mount, and then reinstall the mounting bolt. Torque to OEM specs. 10. Place a jack under the lower control arm. Raise the lower control arm to reattach the lower ball joint bolts. Torque the ball joint nuts to OEM specs. 11. Repeat Steps 3 through 10 on the opposite side of the vehicle. 12. Reattach the sway bar link assembly on both sides of the vehicle. Torque to OEM specs. For 2wd trucks skip Step 13. 13. For 4×4 models only it is necessary to lower the differential using the provided spacers and bolts. Install the spacers following the instructions provided with the spacers. 14. Reattach the wheels. Torque to OEM specs. 15. Lower vehicle to the ground and torque strut mounts to OEM specs. 16. Align the vehicle. A certified alignment technician that is experienced with lifted vehicles is recommended to perform the alignment

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2004-2008 FORD F150 FRONT LEVELING SYSTEM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 19-12-2011

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Front End Installation: 1. To begin installation, block the rear tires of the vehicle so that the vehicle is stable and can’t roll backwards. Safely lift the front of the vehicle and support the frame with jack stands. Place jack stands on both the driver and the p sides of the vehicle. Next remove the wheel from both sides. assenger s 2. Remove the upper strut mounts with a 15-mm wrench or . m socket. Using a ball cket. Use an socket. You will need a socket to remove the far strut mount 3. Remove the sway bar lower link pin bolt from the bottom of the control arm with an 18 mm socket. 4. Disconnect the tie rod end with a 21 m peen hammer or impact tool, hit the steering knuckle (not the tie rod) until the tie rod pops out. If you use a tie rod pickle fork, be careful not to cut the tie rod boot. A severed tie rod boot will allow dirt and moisture to damage the tie rod end. 5. Remove the upper ball joint nut with a 21 mm so impact tool or ball peen hammer and hit the steering knuckle until the upper control arm pops out.
6. Support the knuckle with a bungee cord or safety wire so not to overextend the CV axel or stretch the brake hydraulic hose. 7. Next remove the struts lower bolt. Using a 27 mm wrench, hold the nut and remove the bolt with a 30 mm socket. 8. Remove the strut assembly. 9. Place the strut extension on the top of the strut, hold the part up to start the nuts onto the factory studs. ** Caution: Use the factory nuts with the factory studs** 10. Run down nuts snug with end wrench. Torque to OEM specs. 11. Place strut back into upper strut mount. Tighten provided nuts snug with wrench or ratchet (after install, you will torque to OEM specs). 12. Use a pry bar to position the lower control arm and the strut mount to reinstall the mounting bolt. Torque to OEM specs. 13. Place a jack under the lower control arm. Raise the lower control arm to reattach the ball joint. A pry bar may be used to hold the upper control arm into position. Torque the ball joint nut to OEM specs. 14. Reattach the tie rod end. Torque to OEM specs. 15. Reattach the sway bar. Torque to OEM specs. 16. Reattach the wheel. Torque to OEM specs. 17. Repeat on opposite side. 18. Lower vehicle to ground and torque strut mounts to OEM specs. 19. Align the vehicle. A certified alignment technician that is experienced with lifted vehicles is recommended to perform the alignment

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2000 Toyota Celica GT-S L4-1762cc 1.8L DOHC MFI – Removal and Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 26-02-2012

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REMOVAL 1. REMOVE HOOD Torque: 13 Nm (130 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.) 2. REMOVE BATTERY 3. REMOVE ECM AND ECM CASE Torque: 6.9 Nm (70 kgf-cm, 61 inch lbs.) 4. REMOVE ECM BRACKET Torque: Bolt: 18 Nm (185 kgf-cm, 13 ft. lbs.) Nut: 12 Nm (120 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.) 5. REMOVE AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY 6. REMOVE NO.2 CYLINDER HEAD COVER Torque: 7.0 Nm (71 kgf-cm, 62 inch lbs. 7. REMOVE 2 GROUND CABLES Torque: 18 Nm (185 kgf-cm, 13 ft. lbs.) 8. DISCONNECT CONTROL CABLE FROM CLAMP 9. DISCONNECT INPUT TURBINE SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR 10. DISCONNECT COUNTER GEAR SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR 11. REMOVE VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR CONNECTOR 12. REMOVE 2 UPPER SIDE TRANSAXLE MOUNTING BOLTS FROM TRANSAXLE Torque: 64 Nm (650 kgf- cm, 47 ft. lbs.) 13. DISCONNECT SOLENOID CONNECTOR AND PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH CONNECTOR Disconnect the solenoid connector and park/neutral position switch connector. 14. DISCONNECT CONTROL CABLE 15. REMOVE BOLT AND DISCONNECT RADIATOR RESERVOIR Torque: 4.9 Nm (50 kgf-cm, 43 inch lbs.) 16. REMOVE STARTER 17. REMOVE LH, RH, CENTER ENGINE UNDER COVERS 18. DRAIN ATF FROM FRONT DIFFERENTIAL CASE Torque: 54 Nm (550 kgf-cm, 40 ft. lbs.) 19. REMOVE LH AND RH DRIVE SHAFTS.

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1984-2002 Pontiac Camaro / Firebird ADJUSTABLE TORQUE ARM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Pontiac Manuals) by admin on 23-02-2012

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Inspect the motor mounts and the transmission mount. Worn, weak or broken mounts will cause the torque arm to not function properly and can cause damage to your vehicle. Stock OE transmission mounts in Camaros and Firebirds are very weak and known to fail. If you have a broken or weak transmission mount, it will cause the torque arm to actually lift the tail end of the trans. up. This could cause severe wheel hop, driveline misalignment and possible damage to the transmission, drive shaft, u-joints, rear axle, torque arm, and/or floor pan of vehicle. We highly recommend using a good quality polyurethane transmission mount like Energy Suspension #33- 1108. Using the Energy Suspension transmission mount is good insurance that your transmission stay solid and the torque arm will work to its full potential. 2. Inspect the rear suspension bushings. We strongly recommend using either Edelbrock (#5274) lower trailing arms with a spherical ball on one end and polyurethane bushings on the other, Edelbrock (#5204) trailing arms with polyurethane bushings on both ends, or other high quality trailing arms that use high quality polyurethane bushings. We also recommend the use of an Edelbrock or other high quality panhard rod to replace the stock OE piece that uses sponge rubber bushings. The lower trailing arms and panhard rod secure the rear axle under the car. Upgrading to stronger high quality tubular trailing arms and panhard rod with polyurethane bushings will increase the overall strength, eliminate the sponge feel of rubber bushings and further increase the function potential of the torque arm. Worn out trailing arm or panhard rod bushings can contribute to or cause torque arm or other suspension component failures. Remember each suspension component

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2008 Ford Focus A/T Main Control Valve Body Removal And Installation

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 01-07-2012

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Disassembly 12 7Z490 Separator plate and gasket assembly 1. Remove the solenoid body bolts and the 13 7A101 Body — control valve lower solenoid body. 14 7R294 Stop — main regulator valve 15 7F445 Retainer plate — main regulator valve 16 7A270 Spring — main fluid pressure regulator valve 17 7C338 Valve — main fluid pressure regulator 18 7G411 Spring — solenoid regulator valve 19 7H392 Valve — solenoid regulator valve 20 7D400 Spring — intermediate servo accumulator 21 7D398 Piston — intermediate servo 2. Remove and discard the solenoid body gaskets. accumulator 22 7G408 Valve — converter pressure relief 23 7G316 Spring — converter regulator valve 24 7M040 Valve — lock up control 25 7Z490 Gasket — solenoid body 26 7G179 Valve — low reverse shift 27 7M040 Valve — 3-4 shift 28 7H148 Shift Solenoid B (SSB) (on/off) valve 29 7H148 Shift Solenoid A (SSA) (on/off) valve ISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued) 3. Remove and discard the seals. 3. Install the seals. 4. Disassemble the main control valve body. 4. Install a new solenoid body gasket. Assembly 1. Install a new separator plate and gasket assembly. 2. NOTE: Do not fully tighten the bolts at this stage. Assemble the main control valve body and loosely install the bolts. DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued) 5. Install the solenoid body and loosely install the 6. Tighten the solenoid body bolts in the sequence bolts. shown. •Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in)

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Toyota 1ZZ-FE Engine Specifications

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 17-04-2012

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SPECIFICATION Table 1 lists the basic specifications of the 1ZZ-FE engine. Fig. 4 shows cross-sections of the engine and Fig. 5 shows the appearance of the engine and a comparison of dimensions with the previous engine. HIGH PERFORMANCE AND GOOD FUEL ECONOMY Fig. 6 shows the performance curve of the 1ZZ-FE engine. Compared with the previous engine, the specific fuel consumption has been greatly improved over the entire range. In addition, the engine’s maximum output and torque have been improved and, at the same time, a moderate torque curve is achieved by eliminating torque drops in the low-to-mid-speed range for easy-to-handle output characteristics Name 1ZZ-FE Type Water-cooled, gasoline, 4-cycle Displacement(cc) 1794 Arrangement & No. of Cylinders4-cylinder, In-line Type of Combustion Chamber Cross-flow, pentroof Valve mechanism 4-valve, DOHC, chain drive Fuel system Multi-point injection Bore × Stroke(mm) 79.0 × 915 Compression ratio 10.0:1 Valve head dia. Intake, 32mm ; Exhaust, 27.5mm Cylinder bore spacing 87.5mm Crankshaft pin-journal dia. 44.0mm Crankshaft main-journal dia. 48.0mm Connecting rod length 146.65mm Emission control system TWC, ?-control Max. power(Kw/rpm) 89/5600 Max. torque(Nm/rpm) 165/4400 Dimensions(L × W × H mm) 639 × 565 × 62

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Troubleshooting and Resolving Water Leaks for FUNSPORT Sunroofs

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 13-03-2012

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1. Opening the sunroof, just after it rains. Standing water on the glass will usually result in water dripping into the cabin. This is not a sunroof fault. Prevention is the solution! Simply drive a short distance to allow any standing water to blow off the glass prior to opening the sunroof. 2. Only after a car wash. High pressure water sprayed directly at the seal will often deflect the seal enough to enter the cabin. This is not a sunroof fault. Prevention is the solution! Don’t spray high pressure water directly on the seal. 3. During a rainstorm, water is immediately visible dripping on the rubber seal under the glass. There may be a problem with glass to seal contact. Carefully examine the seal. If it is visibly damaged or worn, it may need replacement. If dirty, it needs cleaning. An adjustment may solve the problem. Always water test to verify (see sprinkle test procedure below). a. Often dirt or debris will prevent proper contact between the glass and seal. Clean both the glass and seal with plain water (a damp cloth), or if very dirty, a mild detergent solution. Repeat water test after cleaning. If water intrusion between glass and seal continues, adjust the glass hardware. b. Adjust the glass hardware to increase clamping pressure on the seal. See procedure below. Repeat water test after adjusting. If water intrusion between glass and seal continues, replace seal. 4. Water is visible dripping through the glass hardware: Water test to verify (soak and sprinkle). You may need to slightly shift the glass hardware or change the rubber gaskets under the rectangular mounting plates. 5. After a long soaking rain the headliner gets wet. This is likely the result of water coming under the main frame or under the seal. Only a soak test will prove this. a. Under the main frame: remove the screw cover strip or pull back the headliner (of wrapped) and examine the clamping screws. Water spots or rusty screws are an indication that water is coming under the main frame. Remove the clamp frame and water spots or rust will likely be visible on the inside of the roofskin. This can be the result of an over-cut hole, a sunroof not centered on the hole (left a gap) or inadequate sealant. Solution: Remove the sunroof and re-install with new sealant. If the hole was over-cut, a larger size may be required. b. Underneath the main seal: carefully examine and verify proper seal insertion around perimeter of sunroof frame. Bottom of seal should be adhered to main frame with butyl tape. Top outer lip should be mechanically inserted into groove in frame. You may be able to manipulate the seal slightly to correct the problem. Otherwise replace the seal. c. Frame joint: typically will see water spots or rust on hinge block and handle mounting screws, particularly on the right hand side. Remove the knock-in bead and examine the channel for water or water spots. Solution: pull back the main seal at the passenger side and apply a small amount of silicone sealant across the frame joint. Allow to dry before reinserting the main seal.

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2001 Toyota Echo Transmission and Drivetrain Removal And Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 10-03-2012

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REMOVAL 1. REMOVE HOOD HINT: At the time of installation, please refer to the following item. Adjust the hood. 2. REMOVE WIPER ARM HINT: At the time of installation, please refer to the following item. Adjust the installation position of the wiper arms 3. REMOVE RH AND LH COWL TOP VENTILATOR LOUVERS 4. REMOVE NO. 2 CYLINDER HEAD COVER Remove the 4 nuts and No. 2 cylinder head cover. Torque: 7.0 Nm (71 kgf-cm, 62 inch lbs.) 5. REMOVE BATTERY AND AIR CLEANER CASE ASSEMBLY WITH AIR HOSE 6. DISCONNECT WIRE HARNESS FROM TRANSAXLE Remove the set bolt of the wire harness clamp. 7. DISCONNECT CONTROL CABLE a. Remove the 2 clips and washers. b. Remove the 2 clips and disconnect the control cables from the transaxle. 8. DISCONNECT CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER a. Remove the set bolt of the clutch line. Torque: 4.9 Nm (50 kgf-cm, 43 inch lbs.) b. Remove the 2 set bolts of the clutch release cylinder. Torque: 12 Nm (120 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.) 9. DISCONNECT GROUND CABLE Remove the set bolt of the ground cable from the engine left mounting bracket. 10. DISCONNECT BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH AND VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR CONNECTORS 11. REMOVE 2 TRANSAXLE UPPER SIDE MOUNTING BOLTS Torque: 33 Nm (340 kgf-cm, 25 ft. lbs.) 12. REMOVE STARTER SET BOLT Torque: 39 Nm (400 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.) 13. ATTACH ENGINE SLING DEVICE TO ENGINE HANGER Zoom Sized for Print Zoom Sized for Print Zoom Sized for Print a. Remove the bolt. b. Install the 2 No. 1 engine hangers with the bolts in the correct direction. Parts No.: No. 1 engine hanger: 12281-21010 Bolt: 91642-81025 Torque: 40 Nm (400 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.) c. Attach the engine chain hoist to the engine hangers. CAUTION: Do not attempt to hang the engine by hooking the chain to any other part. 14. RAISE VEHICLE CAUTION: Make sure that the vehicle is securely supported. 15. REMOVE LH ENGINE UNDER COVER 16. DRAIN TRANSAXLE OIL Oil grade: API GL-4 or GL-5 Viscosity: SAE 75W-90 Capacity: 1.9 liters (2.0 US qts, 1.7 Imp. qts) Torque: 39 Nm (400 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.) 17. REMOVE RH AND LH FRONT DRIVE SHAFTS 18. REMOVE SUSPENSION MEMBER a. Remove the 2 set nuts and bolt of the engine rear mounting insulator from the suspension member. b. Disconnect the sliding yoke. c. Power steering: Disconnect the pressure feed and return tubes. d. Power steering: Disconnect the tube clamp

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2007-2008 TOYOTA FJ CRUISER 2WD AND 4WD 3″ SUSPENSION LIFT KIT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 12-11-2011

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4Runner/FJ Cruiser Installation Instructions 08/28/08 INST-431.DOC Page 2 of 5 FRONT OF 4RUNNER/FJ CRUISER 1. Park vehicle on level concrete surface. 2. Center and lock the steering wheel. 3. Block the rear wheels of the vehicle to prevent vehicle from moving in either direction. 4. Before lifting vehicle, remove rear shock absorbers and discard. 5. Jack up the vehicle from the lift point in Figure A. 6. Support the vehicle with jack stands from the points in Figure A. 7. Remove the front wheels. 8. Remove sway bar end links from spindle using 17mm socket (both sides). See Figure B. 9. Remove front skid plate using 12mm socket. 10. Remove sway bar from frame using 14mm socket. See Figure C. 11. Using 19mm socket, remove lower bolt and nut from the bottom of the strut (both sides). 12. Remove cotter key and 19mm nut from outer tie rod end, rack & pinion utilizing a tie rod end puller (or pickle fork). 13. Remove the three nuts (14mm) from the top of the strut. See Figure D. 14. Remove the struts from the vehicle, making sure that they are marked driver and passenger side respectively for reinstallation. NOTE: AT THIS TIME, IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A SUITABLE SPRING COMPRESSOR, IT IS HIGHLY ADVISED TO EITHER TAKE THE STRUT TO A QUALIFIED SERVICE CENTER OR PURCHASE THE REVTEK SC-1 SPRING COMPRESSOR. 15. Compress strut assembly and remove the nut (17mm) on the top of the strut shaft. 16. Release the compressor. 17. Remove the spring top plate from the strut. 18. Remove and discard the rubber spacer FRONT OF 4RUNNER/FJ CRUISER (continued) 19. Remove (hammer) the studs from the spring top plate. See Figure “F.” 20. Install (hammer) the LONGER STUDS (10MM) (provided) in the spring top plate. See Figure “G.” 21. Install the PRELOAD SPACER between the spring and the spring top plate with the small diameter facing toward the spring and the Revtek Industries logo facing outward. See Figure H. 22. Compress the strut assembly, making sure you center the strut shaft through the spring top plate hole and that the STUDS line up with the PRELOAD SPACER reliefs. Replace nut on the top of the strut shaft and torque to spec. (Torque specs can be found on page 1.) 23. Install the TOP OUT EXTENDER over the STUDS (Figure H). 24. Reinstall the strut by reversing the removal procedure; torque to spec. (Torque specs on page 1.) 25. When properly installed, Revtek Industries logo will be centered between preload spacer reliefs. 26. Reinstall tie rod ends, torque to spec. 27. Reinstall sway bar to frame. 28. Reinstall sway bar end links into spindles. Torque to spec. 29. Reinstall front skid plate. 30. Replace the wheels; torque to spec.

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