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lancer 4g13 12 carburetor schematic

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1984-1995 Honda Accord/Prelude In­Tank Fuel Pumps TEST/REPAIR MANUAL

Carbureted Fuel System GENERAL INFORMATION On these vehicles, the engine management system is considered part of the emission control system. The major components include the carburetor(s), feedback control system, the air injection system, a throttle control system and the EGR system. The system consists of sensors and switches that feed information to the Electronic Control Unit (ECU), which will then operate several solenoid valves to maintain the ideal air/fuel ratio under all conditions. As useful as the tests found in this section are, the first step in repair or service to engine management systems is still to gain as much information as possible about the problem; when and under what conditions it occurs. At highway speed? At idle only? Only under heavy load or hard acceleration? Wet weather? Defining the problem will eliminate many systems from consideration and possibly point to the affected system. Before diving into an extended electrical diagnosis, take the time to review the basics. Check every vacuum line for cracks or leaks. Check every electrical connector for corrosion or loose pins. Quite often, simply unplugging and reconnecting a connector will break up corrosion on the pins and restore the circuit. Watch out for poor grounds, particularly if the car has experienced major bodywork. COMPONENT TESTING Air Injection System The purpose of this system is to supply oxygen to the exhaust stream at a point in the exhaust manifold that is hot enough to burn off some of the hydrocarbon emissions. The main component is an air suction valve. The valve is spring loaded to stay closed, with engine vacuum supplied to a diaphragm that reduces the spring pressure and allows the reeds to open. The ECU regulates the engine vacuum to the diaphragm by operating a solenoid valve. 1. With the engine at normal operating temperature and at idle, remove the air cleaner and listen for a bubbling sound at the air suction port. There should be no sound at idle, meaning the air suction valve is closed. 2. If the noise is heard at the air suction port, disconnect the vacuum hose at the air suction valve and connect a vacuum gauge to the hose. There should be no vacuum. If there is vacuum and the noise stops, the problem is in the control system. If there is no vacuum and the bubbling sound is still there, the air suction valve is defective and must be replaced. 3. To test the valve, draw a vacuum at the air suction valve diaphragm and listen for a bubbling sound at the air suction port. If no sound is heard, the air suction valve or diaphragm is faulty. Throttle Control System


Fig. 79: Aligning Timing Belt Courtesy of MITSUBISHI MOTOR SALES OF AMERICA. 2. Loosen the tension pulley fixing bolt. 3. Place a screwdriver against the tensioner pulley and pry it fully back in the direction of the arrow. 4. Temporarily tighten the tensioner pulley bolt. 5. Remove the timing belt. Fig. 80: Tightening Tensioner Pulley Bolt Courtesy of MITSUBISHI MOTOR SALES OF AMERICA. INSTALLATION SERVICE POINTS >> A << TIMING BELT INSTALLATION CAUTION: If the timing belt is to be re-used, use chalk to mark (on its flat side) an arrow indicating the clockwise direction. CAUTION: After installing the timing belt, try to rotate the camshaft sprocket in the reverse direction. Recheck to be sure that the belt is fully tensioned and that each timing mark is in the proper position. 1. With the timing belt tensioner pulley bolt loosened, use a screwdriver to pry the tensioner pulley as close to the engine mount as possible. Then temporarily tighten tensioner bolt. Fig. 81: Adjusting Timing Belt Tensioner Courtesy of MITSUBISHI MOTOR SALES OF AMERICA. 2. Align each of the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket timing marks. 3. Install the timing belt in the following order, while making sure that the tension side of the belt is not loose. 1. Crankshaft sprocket 2. Water pump sprocket 3. Camshaft sprocket 4. Tensioner pulley >> B << TIMING BELT TENSION ADJUSTMENT 1. Initially loosen the fixing bolt of the tensioner pulley fixed to the engine mount side by 1/4-1/2 turn, and use the force of the tensioner spring to apply tension to the belt. 2. Turn the crankshaft in the proper rotation direction (clockwise) for two rotations, and recheck to be sure that the timing marks on each sprocket are aligned.


SYSTEM TESTING See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 Fig. Fig. 1: Glow plug system schematic Fig. Fig. 2: Dropping resistor and glow plug relay locations Fig. Fig. 3: Thermo switch location Fig. Fig. 4: Dropping resistor check To test the dropping resistor, check for continuity across the terminals as described in the illustration. If no continuity exists, replace the unit. 1. To test the thermo switch, first remove the switch. Submerge the end of the switch in water and raise the temperature gradually. The switch should be off at 126-140°F (53-60°C) or lower. The switch should be on at 134-145°F (57-63°C) or higher. If not, replace the switch. 2. REMOVAL & INSTALLATION See Figure 5 Fig. Fig. 5: Location of the glow plugs The glow plugs are located under the injection nozzles, and are threaded into the cylinder head. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. 1. Disconnect the glow plug and unscrew it from the engine. 2. To install: Lubricate with anti-seize compound before installing the plug. 3. Install and tighten the plug to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm). 4. Reconnect the plug wiring. 5. Connect the battery cable and check operation. 6.


PREP AND TUNING FOR POWER: NOTE: This manifold will produce optimum power and drivability when used with #1405 carburetors. Please refer to Edelbrock Performer Series Carburetor Owner’s Manual for tuning procedures. 1. Edelbrock has found, while dyno testing on a Performer level engine at our location, the best calibration to be: Metering Rods – .070″ x .047″ (stock 1405), Primary Jets – .098″ (provided with intake manifold), and Secondary Jets – .086″ (provided with intake manifold). This will vary according to engine build and atmospheric conditions. Use it as a starting point. However, if used for racing or marine installation, further tuning may be necessary. 2. Aftermarket distributor curve kits may be used with this intake manifold. A basic ignition curve of 12° to 14° initial and a total of 36° to 38° advance is a good starting point. 3. Use modified or high performance cylinder heads such as our Performer RPM. 4. Installation of aftermarket headers, camshafts or both may lean carburetor calibration. Should this condition occur, recalibrate with a richer jet. • CAMSHAFT AND HEADERS: Dual Quad manifolds are compatible with aftermarket camshafts and headers. Header primary tube diameter should be 1-7/8″, depending on the specific engine combination. Edelbrock has developed two camshafts for use with this intake manifold – Performer-Plus #2192 or Performer RPM #7194. Please check the catalog or website for rpm and application guidelines. INSTALLATION 1. Use only recommended intake gaskets set when installing this intake manifold. For ease of installation, we recommend Edelbrock Manifold Bolt and Washer Kit, #8594. 2. Fully clean the cylinder head intake flanges and the engine block end seal surfaces. 3. Use a factory style valley pan along with the recommended gaskets. 4. Apply Edelbrock Gasgacinch sealant P/N 9300 to both cylinder head flanges and to the cylinder head side of the gaskets, allow to air dry, and attach the intake gaskets. 5. Install the intake manifold and hold-down bolts. Torque all of the manifold bolts in two steps by the sequence shown in Figure 1 to 25 ft/lbs


INSTALLATION 1. This kit contains all the necessary parts to operate Edelbrock carburetors in a progressive or 1: 1 type operation. Figure 1 illustrates typical progressive type installation in which the rear carburetor is the primary carb. This simplifies linkage attachment to the vehicle’s existing throttle linkage. 2. Before attaching anything to the carburetors, loosely assemble the major components of the linkage kit using Figure 1 as a guideline. Note that the longer rod will go to the rear carb with the flat facing down, and the short rod goes to the front carb with the flat facing up. The brass bearing blocks should be positioned so that the set screws will tighten against the flat of the short rod, i.e., both bearing block set screws will be up. Attach the aluminum collar to the long rod between the bearing blocks with the set screw against the flat. 3. Attach the linkage assembly to the carbs with the 10-24 allen head screws and locknuts. Attach to the rear carb using one of the brass 518″ O.D. x 3/16″ I.D. shoulder spacers and the tapered brass anti-rotation shoulder spacer in the top hole of the throttle arm (112″ diameter). Note that the shoulder spacer goes on the inside and the anti-rotation spacer goes on the outside of the throttle arm. Attach to the front carb using the 3/16″ hole just below the large hole in the throttle arm. ADJUSTMENT – NOTE: If carburetors are full of fuel, place rags in the carb throats to absorb the fuel discharged when working the throttle linkage. This will prevent flooding and possible damage to the piston rings upon start-up. Be sure to remove the rags before starting engine. 1. Tighten the set screw and locknut on the rear bearing block, making sure that the bearing block is close to the end of the shaft from the front carburetor. 2. Push the throttle arms of both carbs to WOT (Wide Open Throttle), then adjust the aluminum collar to touch the rear brass bearing block. Securely tighten the set screw and locknut on the aluminum collar. 3. Let both throttle arms return to idle position, then adjust the front brass bearing block to almost touch the aluminum collar. Leave about .020″-.030″ clearance to allow for independent idle speed adjustment of each carburetor. Tighten all set screws, locknuts, and bolts at this time. 4. Check for smooth operation of linkage from idle to WOT and note that the rear carb will open about 20″ before starting to open the front carb. Both carbs should reach WOT at the same time. 5. IMPORTANT: Attach a return spring to both carburetors as shown in Figure 1. Use the return spring brackets supplied, bending as necessary for attachment to your engine. Generally the brackets can be attached to the intake manifold using the existing bolts. Use the longer or shorter spring on either the front or rear carburetor as required for your particular application. Check for smooth operation and positive return to idle. 6. Attach existing throttle linkage to rear carburetor using the 3/16″ hole below the large hole in the throttle arm. It may be necessary to shorten your existing linkage rod or cable, or to use an aftermarket cable mounting plate. BEFORE STARTING ENGINE, DOUBLE-CHECK FOR SMOOTH OPERATION OF LINKAGE FROM IDLE TO WIDE OPEN THROTTLE AND FOR POSITIVE RETURN TO IDLE. OPTIONAL 1:l INSTALLATION If 1:l linkage is desired, assemble and attach linkage kit as above, except that the attachment point to the front carburetor’s throttle arm will be the large 112″ hole using the other two 518″ O.D. x 3/16″ I.D. shoulder spacers (similar to the rear carburetor). Adjust the bearing blocks to eliminate all freeplay, so that all motion to the rear carburetor’s throttle arm is transmitted directly to the front carb’s throttle arm