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1991 Infiniti G20 AXLE SHAFTS – FRONT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION MANUAL

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION FWD AXLE SHAFT Removal (Axle Shaft) 1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove front wheel assembly. Remove wheel bearing lock nut. Remove brake caliper, and support aside. Remove brake rotor. 2. Disconnect tie rod end. Remove upper knuckle nut, and separate knuckle assembly from third link assembly. Push axle shaft through hub, and separate axle assembly from knuckle assembly. 3. Insert screwdriver blade between transaxle case and right axle inner CV joint. Pry out on joint until joint pops free. Use care not to damage axle boot or axle seal. 4. On M/T vehicles, remove left axle in same manner. On A/T vehicles, insert screwdriver through differential, and drive axle out of transaxle case using a hammer. See Fig. 2 . PROBLEM Possible Cause/Action GREASE LEAKING Ripped CV Boot Replace Boot CLICKING NOISE WHILE CORNERING Dry/Worn CV Joints Replace Outer CV Joints CLUNK ON ACCELERATION Dry/Worn CV Joints Replace Inner CV Joints Worn Transmission Gears/Bearings Inspect Transmission VIBRATION/SHUDDER ON ACCELERATION Dry/Worn CV Joints Replace CV Joints Alignment Out Check Alignment Incorrect Spring Height Check Spring Height SQUEALING OR HUMMING Dry/Worn CV Joints Lube/Replace CV Joints Faulty Wheel Bearing Replace Wheel Bearing NOTE: DO NOT allow brake caliper to hang from brake hose. CAUTION: Use care not to damage pinion mate shaft or side gear while driving out axle. 1991 Infiniti G20 AXLE SHAFTS – FRONT’ ’1991-92 DRIVE AXLES FWD Axle Shafts None Page 2
Fig. 2: Removing Left Drive Axle (A/T Vehicles) Courtesy of NISSAN MOTOR CO., U.S.A. Removal (Outer CV Joint) 1. Remove and discard boot bands. Slide boot off joint housing. Thread wheel bearing lock nut onto joint. Using a slide hammer and bearing puller, remove joint from axle shaft. See Fig. 3 . NOTE: Outer joint cannot be disassembled. Remove and inspect joint and replace if damaged or worn. 1991 Infiniti G20 AXLE SHAFTS – FRONT’ ’1991-92 DRIVE AXLES FWD Axle Shafts None Page 3 2. Remove circlip from end of axle, and remove boot. If boot is being reused, take care not to cut boot on axle splines during removal. Clean CV joint in suitable solvent. Inspect components, and replace joint if necessary.

1991 Saab 9000 L4-2290cc 2.3L DOHC Turbo EFI Axle Shaft Removal And Installation Manual

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Service and Repair Notes Removal Important: Thorough cleanliness must be observed during all work on drive shafts and drive shaft joints, to prevent dirt and dust getting into the joints. Before starting work, always clean the wheel arch, MacPherson strut and other areas around the drive shaft and joints. 1Unfasten the hub centre-nut. 2Lift the car and remove the wheel. 3Remove the hub centre-nut. Push the axle stub back approx. 2 cm (if it pushed further back it can damage the tripod). Use puller 87 91 287 and puller arms 87 91 303 together with tool 87 91 154, puller bracket, the belongs to tool collection for manual gear boxes. 4Remove the steering-swivel member from the MacPherson strut and unfasten the flexible hose from the hose mounting and, if appropriate, also unfasten the ABS sensor and cable. Important: Scrupulously clean the rubber gaiter and the universal joint driver. 5Remove the clamp securing the rubber gaiter on the inner universal joint driver. Pull the universal joint apart and fit the protective cover on the rubber gaiter and universal joint driver. 6Pull out the drive shaft from the hub. Fitting 1Remove existing grease out of the universal joint driver and carefully clean the interior. 2 Pack the universal joint driver with grease, 60 g Mobile K 575 GS. Observe great cleanliness. Motor / ALLDATA Online – 1991 Saab 9000 L4-2290cc 2.3L DOHC T… http://www.motoralldata.com/alldata/MOTOR~V71595976~C19965~… 3 of 4 3/26/2008 12:03 AM Zoom Sized for Print

Toyota Front Coil Spring Spacer Lift Kit Installation Manual

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FRONT 1. Read complete instructions before beginning installation, the following special tools are recommended: Coil spring compressor, floor jack, ball joint separator, jack stands, bench vise, and metric hand tools. 2. Jack the vehicle in the center of the front cross member. 3. Support the vehicle by placing jack stands on the frame cross member so that the front tire/wheels are off the ground. 4. Remove the front tires/wheels. 5. Disconnect the sway bar end links and remove the upper ball joint cotter pin and nut. 6. Separate the upper ball joint from the spindle. (Using ball joint separator or a suitable tool, be careful NOT to damage the ball joint boot) 7. Remove upper strut tower nuts holding strut assembly to strut tower (3) on each side of vehicle. 8. Remove the lower strut bolt from the lower control arm and remove the strut assembly from the vehicle. (Note the direction of the bolt for reinstallation) 9. Compress the coil spring on the strut assembly with a suitable coil spring compressor so that the coil spring has about 3/8″ play in the strut and remove the upper strut isolator mount nut. 10. Remove the coil spring isolator from the upper strut mounting plate. 11. Replace the upper strut mounting plate studs with the supplied studs with a bench vise and a deep well socket. (3 on each side) 12. Reinstall the factory coil spring isolator to the upper strut mounting plate. 13. Reinstall the compressed coil spring onto the strut assembly and reattach the upper strut mount plate using the stock hardware. See diagram. Torque upper strut mounting plate nut to 18 foot-pounds. 14. Decompress the coil spring in the strut assembly. Make sure that the spring is seated correctly into the strut assembly alignment indentation at the bottom of the strut and the top isolator. 15. Slide the coil spring spacer onto the top of the strut assembly over the 10mm studs. 16. Install the strut assembly into the strut tower and start the upper three 10mm lock nuts. (Make sure that the bottom of the strut is aligned as well) 17. Install the lower strut bolt in the original position and torque to 100 foot- pounds. (Step 8) 18. Using the floor jack, raise the lower control arm and connect the upper ball joint on the upper control arm to the spindle. Torque nut to 80 ft lbs. and make sure that you replace the cotter pin. (Not supplied) 19. Install the front tires/wheels. 20. Lower the vehicle onto the ground and tighten the upper strut tower 10mm nuts. Torque to 35 foot-pounds. (3 on each side) 21. RETORQUE ALL BOLTS AFTER 500 MILES.

1992 Toyota Cressida Wiring Diagram

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tem Wire ColorPolarity Wire Location 12V white – white/red Positive (+) steering column Starter black/white Positive (+) steering column Starter 2 none Ignition black/yellow Positive (+) steering column 2nd Ignition black/red Positive (+) steering column 3rd Ignition none Accessory blue/red Positive (+) steering column Accessory 2 none Tachometer black/yellow check conn(ig-) Power Door (Lock) Wiring Diagram for [ Negative (-) ] Door Lock green/red Negative (-) pass kick or theft ecu Power Door (Unlock) Wiring Diagram for [ Negative (-) ] Door Unlock green/whiteNegative (-) pass kick or theft ecu Door Trigger red/white Negative (-) theft ecu[1] Dome Supervision Wiring Diagram for [ none ] Dome none none none Headlights red/yellow Negative (-) steering column Parklight Positive green Positive (+) dimmer controll or dkp Parklight Negative green/whiteNegative (-) steering column Wipers blue/black Positive (+) steering column Left Front Window (Up/Down) grn/wht – red/blu in drivers door Right Front Window (Up/Down) pnk/blk – pnk in drivers door or dkp Left Rear Window (Up/Down) red – red-yel A in drivers door or dkp Right Rear Window (Up/Down) grn/blk – red/blk A in drivers door or dkp Trunk/Hatch Pin red/white Negative (-) at light, or theft ecu Hood Pin tied with doors Trunk/Hatch Release Wiring Diagram for [] Trunk/Hatch none Factory Alarm (Arm) arms with lock Factory Alarm (Disarm) disarms with unlock Horn white/red Negative (-) st.column or theft ecu Brake green/black Positive (+) brake switch Door Motor (Lock) none none none Door Motor (Unlock) none none none

Steering, Brake And Suspension Specialists Proportioning Valve Diagram

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This diagram is the most common way to plumb a proportioning valve. In some cases, the right front line will be plugged off at the proportioning valve and the left front line will go to a “T” fitting. From the “T” fitting, the front lines then split off and go to the left and right wheels. Our proportioning valve has a warning light switch built in (this is not a stop light switch.) The warning light will detect any loss of pressure, for example, a leaky wheel cylinder. We recommend you wire this light into your system. Any two wire light socket will work. One wire goes to the accessory power and the other goes to the warning light. Our proportioning valves provide four functions: 1. Proportion pressure front and rear 2. 10 psi. residual check valve 3. Metering valve to apply pressure to the rear brakes before the front brakes 4. A brake warning light to detect a loss in pressure Proportioning Valve Plumbing Diagram: There are two proportioning valve lines that connect to the master cylinder provided in our kits. The first is a 90 degree bend with one leg longer than the other. This line must be oriented with the long leg connected into the front top hole of the proportioning valve and the short end in the front hole on the master cylinder. The second line has two 90 degree bends and has color coded fittings. The larger blue fitting goes into the back hole on the master cylinder and the smaller gold fitting goes into the back top hole on the proportion valve as shown in the diagram