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1999 Honda Civic EX TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

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Filed Under (Honda Manuals) by admin on 04-02-2012

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TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m) A/C Compressor Bracket-To-Engine Bolts 33 (45) A/C Compressor-To-Bracket Bolts 18 (24) A/C Idler Pulley Bracket Bolts 8-mm 18 (24) A/C Idler Pulley Center Nut 33 (45) Battery Tray 18 (24) Camshaft Holder Bolts DOHC 8-mm Bolts 20 (27) SOHC 8-mm Bolts 15 (20) Camshaft Pulley Bolt DOHC 41 (56) SOHC 27 (37) Catalytic Converter Flange Nuts 25 (34) Clutch Slave Cylinder Line/Hose Bracket 8-mm Bolts 18 (24) Clutch Slave Cylinder Mounting 8-mm Bolts 18 (24) Connecting Rod Bearing Cap Nuts DOHC 30 (40) SOHC 23 (31) Crankshaft Pulley Bolt DOHC 130 (177) SOHC (1) Cylinder Head Bolts DOHC First Step (Bolts 1-10) 22 (29) Second Step 61 (83) SOHC First Step (Bolts 1-10) 15 (20) Second Step (Bolts 1-10) 36 (49) Thrid Step (Bolts 1-10) 49 (67) Forth Step (Bolts 1 & 2) 49 (67) Distributor Mount Bolt 18 (24) Drive Plate Bolts (A/T Or CVT) 54 (74) EGR Valve Nuts 15 (20) Engine Coolant Drain Plug 58 (79) Engine Mounts (2) Transaxle Mount 10-mm Bolts 12-mm Bolts/Nuts 47 (64) 12-mm Through-Bolt 54 (74) Side Engine Mount 10-mm Nuts/Bolts 40 (54) Engine Upper Mount Bracket 74 (54) Rear Mount Bracket 12-mm Bolts 43 (59) 14-mm Bolts 61 (83) Left Front Mount 10-mm Bolts 33 (44) 12-mm Bolts 43 (59) Right Front Mount 10-mm Bolts 33 (44) 12-mm Bolts 47 (64) Engine Oil Drain Plug 33 (45) Engine Front & Rear Stiffeners 8-mm Bolts 18 (24) 10-mm Bolts 33 (44) 12-mm Bolts 42 (57) Exhaust Manifold Bracket Bolt 8-mm 18 (24) 10-mm 33 (45) Exhaust Manifold Cover 8-mm Bolts 18 (24) Exhaust Manifold-To-Cylinder Head Nuts (3) 23 (31) Exhaust Pipe Bracket 8-mm Nuts (3) 12 (16) Exhaust Pipe Flange 8-mm Bolts (3) 16 (22) Exhaust Pipe-To-Manifold/TWC (3) D16Y5 & D16Y7 Engines 25 (33) D16Y8 & B16A2 Engines 40 (54) Flywheel Bolts (M/T) 87 (118) Fuel Filter Banjo Bolt 25 (34) Generator Adjustment Lock Bolt 18 (24) Generator Bracket-To-Engine Bolts 33 (45) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) 33 (45) Inspection Hole Sealing Bolt (VTEC) 15 (20) Intake Air Control (IAC) Valve Bolts D16Y5 Engine 16 (22) D16Y8 Engine 18 (24) Idler Pulley Bracket Bolt DOHC

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1993 Ford Escort CIRCUIT TEST J – FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT (RELAY AND INERTIA SWITCH)

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 19-01-2012

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resistance between test pin No. 22 and test pins No. 40 and 60. If resistance is less than 10,000 ohms, repair short circuit and repeat QUICK TEST. If resistance is 10,000 ohms or more, go to step 5). 5)Check Fuel Pump Circuit Continuity Turn ignition off. Leave fuel pump relay and PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between FUEL PUMP circuit at fuel pump relay wiring harness connector and test pin No. 22 at breakout box. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace PCM and repeat QUICK TEST. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open circuit and repeat QUICK TEST. 10)Code 95/542 A KOEO Code 95/542 indicates one of the following conditions: Engine Starts: * Fuel pump secondary circuit shorted to power. * Fuel pump relay contacts always closed. * Open FPM circuit between PCM and junction to POWER-TO-PUMP circuit. * Left/front HO2S short to power (dual HO2S applications). * Faulty PCM. No Start: * IFS switch circuit open or not reset. * Open circuit in or between PCM and fuel pump. * Faulty ground connection at fuel pump. * Faulty fuel pump. If engine starts, go to step 11). If engine does not start, go to step 15). 11)Check Fuel Pump Operation Turn ignition on. Wait 5 seconds. Listen for fuel pump operation. If fuel pump is off, go to step 13). If fuel pump is on, go to step 12). 12)Check For Fuel Pump Relay Always Closed Turn ignition off. Disconnect fuel pump relay. Turn ignition on. If fuel pump is off with relay disconnected, replace fuel pump relay and repeat QUICK TEST. If fuel pump is on with relay disconnected, repair short to power in POWER-TO-PUMP or FPM circuit. (For models with relay block, also check fuel pump prime plug circuit). Repeat QUICK TEST. 13)Check Continuity Of Fuel Pump Monitor (FPM) Circuit Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM 60-pin connector. Inspect and repair any damaged terminals. Install EEC-IV Breakout Box (T83L-50-EEC-IV) , leaving PCM disconnected. Disconnect fuel pump relay. Measure resistance between test pin No. 8 (No. 19 on Escort, and Tracer) at breakout box and POWER-TO-PUMP circuit at fuel pump relay wiring harness connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to step 25) (dual HO2S) or replace PCM and repeat QUICK TEST (single HO2S). If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open circuit and repeat QUICK TEST

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1995 Nissan-Datsun Maxim Water Pump Service and Repair REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

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Filed Under (Nissan Manuals) by admin on 03-06-2011

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1.Drain coolant from drain plugs on radiator and both sides of cylinder block. 2.Remove drain plug on cylinder block. 3.Remove right side engine mounting, mounting bracket and nuts. 4.Remove drive belts and idler pulley bracket. 5.Remove chain tensioner cover and water pump cover. 6.Pushing timing chain tensioner sleeve, apply a stopper pin so it does not return. Then remove the chain tensioner assembly. 7.Remove the 3 water pump fixing bolts. Secure a gap between water pump gear and timing chain, by turning crankshaft pulley 2O° backwards. 8.Put M8 bolts to two M8-threaded holes out of 3 water pump fixing bolt holes 9.Tighten M8 bolts by turning half turn alternately until they reach timing chain rear case. In order to prevent damages to water pump or timing chain rear case, do not tighten one bolt continuously. Always turn each bolt half turn each time. 10.Lift up water pump and remove it. When lifting up water pump, do not allow water pump gear to hit timing chain. INSPECTION 1.Check for badly rusted or corroded body assembly. 2.Check for rough operation due to excessive end play. INSTALLATION 1.Before installing, remove all traces of liquid gasket from mating surface of water pump cover and chain tensioner cover using a scraper. Also remove traces of liquid gasket from mating surface of front cover. 2.Apply a continuous bead of liquid gasket to mating surface of chain tensioner cover and water pump cover. 3.Return the crankshaft pulley to its original position by turning it 2O° forward. 4.Install timing chain tensioner, then remove the stopper pin After installing the tensioner, race the engine at about 3,000 rpm under no load to purge air from the high-pressure chamber. The engine may produce a rattling noise. This indicates that air still remains in the chamber and is not a matter of concern. 5.Install drain plug on cylinder block. 6.Reinstall any parts removed in reverse order of removal

2004 Mazda 6 i Engine Mechanical WATER PUMP DRIVE BELT

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Filed Under (Mazda Manuals) by admin on 09-06-2011

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1. Verify that the water pump drive belt auto tensioner indicator mark does not exceeds the limit. ? If it exceeds the limit, replace the water pump drive belt. (See WATER PUMP DRIVE BELT .) Fig. 20: Water Pump Drive Belt Auto Tensioner Limit Indicator Mark – Normal WATER PUMP DRIVE BELT 1. Remove the plug hole plate. 2. Rotate the water pump drive belt auto tensioner counterclockwise to release the drive belt tension and remove the water pump drive belt. 3. Reinstall the water pump drive belt or install a new water pump drive belt. WATER PUMP DRIVE BELT PULLEY REMOVAL NOTE 1. Replace part A of the SST [303-009 (49 UN30 3009)] with the SST [303-457 (49 UN30 3457)].

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Troubleshooting and Resolving Water Leaks for FUNSPORT Sunroofs

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 13-03-2012

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1. Opening the sunroof, just after it rains. Standing water on the glass will usually result in water dripping into the cabin. This is not a sunroof fault. Prevention is the solution! Simply drive a short distance to allow any standing water to blow off the glass prior to opening the sunroof. 2. Only after a car wash. High pressure water sprayed directly at the seal will often deflect the seal enough to enter the cabin. This is not a sunroof fault. Prevention is the solution! Don’t spray high pressure water directly on the seal. 3. During a rainstorm, water is immediately visible dripping on the rubber seal under the glass. There may be a problem with glass to seal contact. Carefully examine the seal. If it is visibly damaged or worn, it may need replacement. If dirty, it needs cleaning. An adjustment may solve the problem. Always water test to verify (see sprinkle test procedure below). a. Often dirt or debris will prevent proper contact between the glass and seal. Clean both the glass and seal with plain water (a damp cloth), or if very dirty, a mild detergent solution. Repeat water test after cleaning. If water intrusion between glass and seal continues, adjust the glass hardware. b. Adjust the glass hardware to increase clamping pressure on the seal. See procedure below. Repeat water test after adjusting. If water intrusion between glass and seal continues, replace seal. 4. Water is visible dripping through the glass hardware: Water test to verify (soak and sprinkle). You may need to slightly shift the glass hardware or change the rubber gaskets under the rectangular mounting plates. 5. After a long soaking rain the headliner gets wet. This is likely the result of water coming under the main frame or under the seal. Only a soak test will prove this. a. Under the main frame: remove the screw cover strip or pull back the headliner (of wrapped) and examine the clamping screws. Water spots or rusty screws are an indication that water is coming under the main frame. Remove the clamp frame and water spots or rust will likely be visible on the inside of the roofskin. This can be the result of an over-cut hole, a sunroof not centered on the hole (left a gap) or inadequate sealant. Solution: Remove the sunroof and re-install with new sealant. If the hole was over-cut, a larger size may be required. b. Underneath the main seal: carefully examine and verify proper seal insertion around perimeter of sunroof frame. Bottom of seal should be adhered to main frame with butyl tape. Top outer lip should be mechanically inserted into groove in frame. You may be able to manipulate the seal slightly to correct the problem. Otherwise replace the seal. c. Frame joint: typically will see water spots or rust on hinge block and handle mounting screws, particularly on the right hand side. Remove the knock-in bead and examine the channel for water or water spots. Solution: pull back the main seal at the passenger side and apply a small amount of silicone sealant across the frame joint. Allow to dry before reinserting the main seal.

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1998 Acura 3.5RL FUEL PUMP RELAY (3.5RL) INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Acura Manuals) by admin on 13-06-2011

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Fuel pump relay is located in the front of the trunk. Turn ignition switch to START position. If engine starts, go to next step. If engine does not start, go to FUEL PUMP RESISTOR (3.5RL) . 2. Turn engine off and ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and PCM 12-pin connector terminal No. 4 (Green wire). If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, go to step 4). 3. Start engine and run at 3000 RPM with no loads and transmission in Park or Neutral, until radiator fan comes on. Allow engine to idle for at least one minute. Turn engine off. Disconnect vacuum hose No. 21 from vacuum manifold. Apply 8-12 in. Hg (27-40 kPa) vacuum to Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor. Start engine and run at 6500 RPM with no loads and transmission in Park or Neutral. Measure voltage between ground and PCM 12-pin connector terminal No. 4 (Green wire). If less than one volt is present, fuel pump relay circuit is okay. If one volt or more is present, substitute a known good PCM, then recheck. If symptom or indication goes away, replace original PCM. 4. Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM 26-pin and 12-pin connectors. Disconnect fuel pump relay 4-pin connector. Using a fused jumper wire, connect fuel pump relay connector terminals No. 2 (Red/White wire) and No. 4 (Green wire). Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and PCM 12-pin connector terminal No. 4 (Green wire). If battery voltage is not present, go to next step. If battery voltage is present, replace fuel pump relay. 5. Remove jumper wire. Measure voltage between ground and fuel pump relay 4-pin connector terminal No. 2 (Red/White wire). If battery voltage is present, repair open or short in Green wire between PCM and fuel pump relay. If battery voltage is not present, repair open in Red/White wire between fuel pump relay and FUEL PUMP fuse No. 22 (20-amp), located in underdash fuse/relay box. FUEL PUMP RESISTOR (3.5RL) 1. Fuel pump resistor is located in the left corner of the trunk. Disconnect fuel pump resistor 2-pin connector. Turn ignition on and measure voltage between ground and fuel pump resistor connector terminal No. 2 (Yellow wire) within 2 seconds. If battery voltage is present for 2 seconds after ignition is turned on, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present as specified, check PGM-FI relay. See PGM- FI MAIN RELAY . 2. Turn ignition off. Using a jumper wire, connect fuel pump resistor connector terminals No. 1 (Black/Yellow wire) and No. 2 (Yellow wire). Turn ignition switch to START position. If engine does not start, go to next step. If engine starts, replace fuel pump resistor. 3. Turn ignition off. Disconnect fuel unit sub-harness Gray, 10-pin connector located in front of trunk, above fuel pump access panel, next to Gray, 20-pin connector. Turn ignition on and measure voltage between ground and sub-harness connector terminal No. 7 (Black/Yellow wire) within 2 seconds. If battery voltage is present for 2 seconds after ignition is turned on, check fuel pump. If battery voltage is present as specified, repair open in Black/Yellow wire between fuel pump resistor and fuel pump

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1998 Dodge Grand Caravan Fuel Pump Relay Removal And Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Dodge Manuals) by admin on 13-06-2012

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Fuel Pump Relay 1. Remove fuel pump relay from power distribution center at driver’s side front corner of engine compartment, near the battery. Note terminal identification on fuel pump relay. See Fig. 6 . 2. To check fuel pump relay resistance, use ohmmeter and check resistance between terminals No. 85 and 86 on fuel pump relay. Replace fuel pump relay if resistance is not 70-80 ohms. 3. To check fuel pump relay operation, connect ohmmeter between terminals No. 30 and 87A on fuel pump relay. See Fig. 6 . Ohmmeter should indicate continuity between terminals No. 30 and 87A on fuel pump relay. 4. Connect ohmmeter between terminals No. 30 and 87 on fuel pump relay. See Fig. 6 . Ohmmeter should indicate no continuity between terminals No. 30 and 87 on fuel pump relay. 5. Connect 16-gauge jumper wire between negative battery terminal and terminal No. 85 on fuel pump relay. Connect 16-gauge jumper wire between positive battery terminal and terminal No. 86 on fuel pump relay. 6. Fuel pump relay should now be energized. No continuity should now exist between terminals No. 30 and 87A on fuel pump relay. Continuity should now exist between terminals No. 30 and 87 on fuel pump relay. Disconnect jumper wires. Replace fuel pump relay if defective. 7. If fuel pump relay or wiring circuit failure exists, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be stored in Powertrain Control Module (PCM). See appropriate G – TESTS W/CODES article. Fig. 6: Identifying ASD Relay & Fuel Pump Relay Terminals Courtesy of CHRYSLER CORP.

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1997-2001 HONDA CR-V (4WD) Noise From the Rear Differential REPAIR PROCEDURE

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Filed Under (Honda Manuals) by admin on 06-01-2012

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REPAIR PROCEDURE 1. Drain and refill the rear differential with Dual Pump Fluid. 2. Check the tires for proper inflation (recommended cold inflation front and rear is 26 psi) and any variation in tire size or type. 3. Test-drive the vehicle in a parking lot. Make tight, low-speed turns. If the noise is eliminated, return the vehicle to the customer. If the noise is still present, go to step 4. 4. Remove the rear differential assembly (see page 15-16 of the 1997-01 CR-V Service Manual). 5. Remove the torque control differential case, then remove and discard the 30 mm shim and the clutch assembly (see steps 1 thru 10 on pages 15-20 thru 15-22 of the service manual). 6. Remove the thrust needle bearing, the oil pump driveshaft, and the oil pump body assembly (see steps 11 and 12 on page 15-22 of the service manual). 7. Install the new flow collar over the drive pinion shaft. Make sure the tabs of the flow collar align with the oil pump pin. 8. For 1997 models: Assemble the new oil pump (spring, O-rings, piston, and pump body assembly). 9. Align the rear oil pump grooves with the oil pump pin and the flow collar tabs, then install the oil pump body assembly on the differential carrier. 10. Tighten the oil pump body assembly bolts to 12 N·m (8.7 lb-ft). 11. Align the oil pump driveshaft tabs with the grooves of the front oil pump in the oil pump body assembly, then install the oil pump driveshaft. 12. Install the thrust needle bearing with the outer race facing up.

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1996 Ford Taurus Transmission and Drivetrain Automatic Transmission/Transaxle Removal and installation Manual

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 20-04-2012

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REMOVAL NOTE: The oil pump and valve body are removed as an assembly. 1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then remove battery, battery tray, and remote air cleaner. 2. Position supply hoses, vacuum hoses, and wiring away from pump and valve body cover. 3. Remove shift lever. 4. On models equipped with Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) , remove splash shield cover, then disconnect brake reservoir hose and cap to prevent contamination. 5. On all models, remove EGR bracket attaching bolts, then install lifting eye. 6. Remove throttle body bracket attaching bolt, install lifting eye, then using suitable equipment support engine. 7. Remove lefthand transaxle mount. 8. Remove transaxle side pan upper attaching bolts. 9. Raise and support vehicle. 10. Remove lefthand front wheel and tire assembly. 11. Remove inner fender cover and position aside, then disconnect ride height sensor. 12. Remove rear transaxle mount attaching bolt. 13. Loosen but do not remove two lefthand subframe attaching bolts. 14. Remove two engine support mount attaching bolts. 15. Remove four lefthand engine support attaching bolts, then remove the engine support. 16. Position suitable drain pan, then remove remaining transaxle side pan attaching bolts and remove pan. 17. Using suitable screwdriver, place manual shift shaft in Park position. 18. Disconnect upper bulkhead electrical connector wiring retainer clip from valve body. 19. Disconnect electrical connectors 20. Remove valve body attaching bolts, then disengage linkage and remove valve body. NOTE: Do not remove oil pump cover attaching bolts. INSTALLATION 1. Install new pump and valve body to chain cover gasket. 2. Slide pump and valve body onto pump shaft. 3. Rotate pump and valve body assembly toward dash panel, then engage manual valve link with manual valve. 4. Slightly rotate pump and valve body assembly to engage oil pump shaft splines with oil pump rotor splines. Valve body should slide flush with chain cover. A suitable 7/8 inch deep well socket on crankshaft pulley may be required for complete engagement. 5. On models less anti-skid, if engagement is not as indicated in step 4, proceed as follows: a. Remove manual valve from valve body. b. Rotate assembly to allow full engagement, up to 360° . c. After full engagement, return assembly to installed position, then install manual valve. Zoom Sized for Print Oil Pump And Valve Body Bolt Tightening Sequence

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1995 Ford Truck F 150 2WD Pickup New Cylinder Head Bolt Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 20-02-2012

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ORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR THE NON-FLANGED STANDARD HEX HEAD BOLTS, TIGHTEN IN TWO (2) STEPS AS FOLLOWS: 1. Tighten all bolts in sequence (Figure 2) to 75-88 N-m (55-65 lb.ft.). 2. Tighten all bolts in sequence (Figure 2) to 88-98 N-m (65-72 lb.ft.). FOR ALL TORQUE TO YIELD HEX HEAD BOLTS, TIGHTEN IN THREE (3) STEPS AS FOLLOWS: 1. Tighten all bolts in sequence (Figure 2) to 34-47 N-m (25-35 lb.ft.). 2. Tighten all bolts in sequence (Figure 2) to 61-75 N-m 45-55 lb.ft.). 3. Tighten all bolts in sequence (Figure 2) an additional 1/4 turn (85-95 degrees). NOTE: WHEN THE CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS HAVE BEEN TIGHTENED FOLLOWING THESE PROCEDURES, IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO RETIGHTEN THE BOLTS AFTER EXTENDED OPERATION. CAUTION: TORQUE-TO-YIELD CYLINDER HEAD BOLTS MUST BE REPLACED WITH NEW BOLTS. DO NOT REUSE TORQUE-TO-YIELD BOLTS. TORQUE-TO-YIELD BOLTS MAY ONLY BE USED ONE (1) TIME. PART NUMBER PART NAME F3ZZ-6065-E Cylinder Head Bolt

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