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Various Concerns With Shifter and/or Ignition Key (Replace Shifter Assembly/Shifter Components or Ignition Lock Cylinder )

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 05-05-2012

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2005-2007 Chevrolet Cobalt 2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only) 2007 Pontiac G5 with Automatic Transmission 4T45-E (RPO MN5) The illustration above shows the switch in a correct position. Cause 3 Metal flashing left in the cylinder may cause a high effort to rotate the key. Cause 4 The slider may be binding in the guides. This may cause the shifter to become difficult to operate. Correction 1 Verify that the shifter button is inoperative by evaluating if the park pawl pin on the shifter assembly moves when activating the button. If the parking pawl does not move when the button is activated, the shifter handle will have to be replaced. Refer to Floor Shifter Control Knob Replacement in SI. Correction 2 Important: A change has been made to the shifter assembly for service. The replacement shifter assembly will read PRNDIL (Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive, Intermediate and Low). Verify that the micro switch is out of position. Replace the shifter assembly. Refer to Transmission Control Replacement in SI. Correction 3 Important: Refer to instruction sheet that is supplied with the lock cylinder kit. BO 47869 is an essential staking tool and must be used for the repair. Replace the ignition lock cylinder. Refer to Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement in SI. Correction 4 Replace the slide indicator and guides in the shifter following the procedure below: 1. Apply the parking brake. 2. Remove the upper console trim. Refer to Trim Plate Replacement-Console Front in SI. 3. Remove shifter knob. Refer to Floor Shifter Control Knob Replacement in SI. 4. Remove the indicator plate. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to release the locking tabs. 5. Remove the shifter indicator lens. 6. Pull up on the indicator and remove it from the assembly. 7. Remove the two front rails by unsnapping the front and lifting up, and then back, to remove the rails from the shifter assembly. 8. Install the new guides. Place the hook end into the assembly and push down. It will snap into place. 9. Install the new slide indicator. With the transmission in neutral, place the slide over the shifter and into the guides. Move the slide indicator down the guides in the front and rear. Important: Replace the shifter indicator lens if damage is present due to the slider binding or if it becomes damaged during disassembly. 10. Install the shift indicator lens. 11. Install the shift indicator plate. 12. Install the shifter knob. Refer to Floor Shifter Control Knob Replacement in SI. 13. Install the upper console trim. Refer to Trim Plate Replacement-Console Front in SI

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Honda Civic / Acura Integra Short Shifter INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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Filed Under (Honda Manuals) by admin on 18-02-2011

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1) Raise the vehicle. Use ramps or a jack and jack stands. NEVER work under a vehicle that is supported by the jack. 2) Remove the stock shift knob from inside the vehicle by twisting it counterclockwise. 3) Underneath the car, remove the bolt that attaches the shifter to the shift rod. Move the shift rod out of the way. 4) Remove the two locknuts and the shift ball holder plate. Pull the stock shifter out taking care to not damage the shift boot inside the car. 5) Inspect the shifter ball seat (plastic piece) and replace if worn or damaged. 6) Rub a small amount of white lithium or synthetic grease around the ball of the JG Edelbrock shifter. Guide the shifter up into the assembly. Before pushing it all the way in, guide the threaded end through the shifter boot from inside the vehicle. Make sure that the shifter bend is pointed towards the driver. 7) For Integra’s, use the long (45.5 mm) pin and the thick and thin aluminum spacers for side clearance. Lubricate the distance pin with white lithium or synthetic grease. 9) Re-install bolt and locking nut – torque to 16 ft-lbs. 8) For Civics, use the short (30.5mm) distance pin with the washers for side spacers. Lubricate the pin with white lithium or synthetic grease

1984-2002 Pontiac Camaro / Firebird ADJUSTABLE TORQUE ARM INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Filed Under (Pontiac Manuals) by admin on 23-02-2012

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Inspect the motor mounts and the transmission mount. Worn, weak or broken mounts will cause the torque arm to not function properly and can cause damage to your vehicle. Stock OE transmission mounts in Camaros and Firebirds are very weak and known to fail. If you have a broken or weak transmission mount, it will cause the torque arm to actually lift the tail end of the trans. up. This could cause severe wheel hop, driveline misalignment and possible damage to the transmission, drive shaft, u-joints, rear axle, torque arm, and/or floor pan of vehicle. We highly recommend using a good quality polyurethane transmission mount like Energy Suspension #33- 1108. Using the Energy Suspension transmission mount is good insurance that your transmission stay solid and the torque arm will work to its full potential. 2. Inspect the rear suspension bushings. We strongly recommend using either Edelbrock (#5274) lower trailing arms with a spherical ball on one end and polyurethane bushings on the other, Edelbrock (#5204) trailing arms with polyurethane bushings on both ends, or other high quality trailing arms that use high quality polyurethane bushings. We also recommend the use of an Edelbrock or other high quality panhard rod to replace the stock OE piece that uses sponge rubber bushings. The lower trailing arms and panhard rod secure the rear axle under the car. Upgrading to stronger high quality tubular trailing arms and panhard rod with polyurethane bushings will increase the overall strength, eliminate the sponge feel of rubber bushings and further increase the function potential of the torque arm. Worn out trailing arm or panhard rod bushings can contribute to or cause torque arm or other suspension component failures. Remember each suspension component

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Ford F-Series Column Shift Repairs Manual

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Filed Under (Ford Manuals) by admin on 25-05-2012

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It’s a simple system. To remove the assembly, start by removing the column shift lever. This is super easy; just use two small punches to depress the two spring-loaded pivot pins on the lever, then pull the lever out. Be aware: the pivot pins and spring will shoot out. Next go under the hood, and undo the two bolts holding the clamp piece just above the steering box. The lower half of the clamp will come free. The upper half is locked to the “shoe” plate under it, and to the steering column, with a round peg cast into it. So you need to pry the shoe up away from the steering column to get the peg clear of the column. Once you do that, you need to pry the upper half of the clamp away from the shoe, so the peg is clear of the shoe. Once it is clear, you can slide the end piece off the shifter tube. Then slide the wave washer and 2-3 lever off. To get the 1-R lever off, you’ll need to pull a steel pin out of the shifter tube. It should just drop out. Then slide the lever, wave washer, and shoe off the tube. Push the shifter tube up to get the clearance needed for the shoe. The shifter tube is a hollow steel tube, with a hole drilled thru it near the bottom. In this hole there is a steel pin (the one just removed). The steel pin engages into slots in the 1-2 and 3-4 levers, to move them. As you can see, there isn’t a lot of wear in my shift levers’ slots. The pin shows some wear, where the tube contacts it. The pin is hardened steel and the shifter tube is mild steel, so the tube will be worse than the pin. The pins are available from Obsolete Ford Parts and others, P/N 01A-7337, only a couple of bucks. Getting the shifter tube out is pretty easy; just drop the column support (remove the bolts to instrument panel and loosen the pinch bolt) down to the floor, and you’ll be able to swing the shift tube to the side to clear the steering wheel, and pull it out. My pin wasn’t that worn, it’s the hole in the tube. The tube is hollow but actually has a steel plug inside it with a hole for the pin. It is pushed inside the tube and then peened in two places thru the outer tube (they punched the outer tube to lock the inner plug). inner plug had gotten loose inside the tube, too. If this is your situation, you could just drill and pin the plug to the outer tube, and get a good improvement. I wanted “like new”, so I took my shifter tube to my favorite machinist (Gene at Noor Mfg. in Albuquerque, a super guy). He made up a whole new lower end for the tube out of 1018 carbon steel. It’s got a spigot on the upper end that was pressed into the remaining tube, welded, then turned down. It is better than new! Look at the difference in the shape of the hole. Price for the work was very reasonable

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1979-1985 Toyota 4×4 3, 5, 7″ Suspension Lift Installation Manual

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 17-03-2012

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1. Make sure you park the vehicle on a level concrete or asphalt surface. Many times a vehicle is unlevel (side-to-side) from the factory, but usually not noticed until a lift kit has been installed which makes the difference more visible. Using a measuring tape, measure the front and rear (both sides) from the ground up to the center of the fender opening above the axle. Record below for future reference. (Note: Due to OEM inconsistency and the available options, the amount of lift gained by this lift kit can vary as much as 1/2″.) Driver Side: Frt______ Rear______, Passenger Side: Frt________ Rear________ 2. Apply a thin coat of grease to the polyurethane bushings and insert into each eye of new springs. Now apply a thin coat of grease on outside of bushings. On SYSTEMS with new rear springs, insert steel sleeve into rear spring eye. Rear spring eye is on the long end of the spring. To Install Front: 3. Raise front of vehicle and support securely with jack stands under the frame behind front spring shackle and block the rear wheels. Remove the tires, shocks, and u-bolts. Care should be taken when removing the front u-bolts because they will be re-used on 3″ kits, not on 3″ SYSTEMS. (Caution: The front axle will now be free to move, so support securely on floor jack.) 4. Remove the anti-sway bar bolts. Remember the arrangement of the rubber bushings and washers. Loosen; do not remove, the bolt attaching the track bar eye to the bracket on the driver’s side of the front axle. This will allow the front axle to drop down easier. (When installing a 7″ kit, remove and discard the anti-sway bar.) 5. With a floor jack supporting the front axle, unbolt each end of front leaf springs and remove from both sides. Install new springs as follows: part #T303S springs can be installed with either end toward front; part #T305S and #T307S must be installed with the thick end of bottom degree shim toward the front of vehicle. (Note: Do NOT tighten spring eye bolts at this time.) Using the floor jack, raise the front axle up to leaf springs. Be sure tie bolts align and fit down into the tie bolt holes in the axle housing. Install front u-bolts. 6. On 3″ and 5″ kits bolt up sway bar using the longer bolts and spacer tubes provided, and using original bushings and washers. Do not over tighten making the bushings bulge or crack. Tighten track bar bolt. (See Photo #1). 7. On 7″ kits remove track bar bolt from bracket on driver’s side of front axle. Install new track bar bracket onto the original bracket with the included bolts and nuts. Attach

Honda Clunk or Squeak From Rear Suspension Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Honda Manuals) by admin on 15-02-2012

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REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: ISIS online service manual information is only available for vehicles 1990 and newer. 1. Remove the rear trailing arm: •Refer to the suspension section of the appropriate service manual, or •Online, enter keyword REAR SUSPENSION, then select Suspension Arms Replacement from the list. 2. Mark the trailing arm at the arrow on the bottom of the bushing 3. Place the arm on a hydraulic press, supported by the hub base, with the spindle facing up. 4. With the hub driver, press the old bushing out of the trailing arm. 5. Install the new bushing with the short end toward the outside of the vehicle. Align the arrow with the mark you made on the trailing arm. 6. Press the new bushing into the trailing arm until its edge is 10 to 12 mm above the surface of the arm. 7. Reinstall the trailing arm. 8. If necessary, repeat steps 1 thru 7 to install a new bushing in the other rear trailing arm. 9. Bleed the brake system: •Refer to the brakes section of the appropriate service manual, or •Online, enter keyword BLEED, then select Brake System Bleeding from the list. 10. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if needed: •Refer to the suspension section of the appropriate service manual, or •Online, enter keyword WHEEL ALIGNMENT, then select Wheel Alignment – Rear Toe Inspection/Adjustment from the list

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Coil Spring Spacer Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 24-12-2011

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1. Check to see that the spacer kit you purchased matches the year and model of your vehicle. Spacer kits two inches or taller may require a spring compressor to install. Ball joint and tie rod forks may also be useful. 2. A good portion of your front suspension will be disassembled so this would be a good time to replace any worn parts (i.e. tie rod ends, ball joints, idler arm and any bushings) Replace bushings with polyurethane replacement parts. 3. Jack up vehicle as high as possible using jack stands for support at all times. 4. With vehicle safely off the ground remove front tires. It is advisable to disassemble on side at a time so that you can use the other side as a reference for re-assembly in the event you get side tracked. 5. Remove the brake caliper from the rotor (attached with 2 bolts inside the caliper or with press-in clips depending on the vehicle). Do not remove the brake line from the caliper unless you intend to bleed the brakes at this time. Set the caliper aside or tie it up to the frame rail. Avoid pinching the brake line. 6. Remove the tie rod from the spindle using the proper tools. Do not hit the tie rod itself or the nut on the threaded portion of the tie rod or it may cause damaged and need replacing. 7. Remove the anti-sway bar from the lower control arm. This would be a good time to replace the end link bushings with polyurethane replacement bushings. 8. If your vehicle is equipped with anti-lock brakes you must now disconnect the front rotor sensor from the dust shield or spindle and set it aside. 9. Disconnect your shock absorber completely from the vehicle whether it is mounted inside the coil spring or not. 10. Support the lower control arm with jack just touching the arm. This will prevent it from dropping when the ball joint is disconnected. 11. The use of a coil spring compressor is recommended before the following steps are taken. 12. Disconnect the upper ball joint from the top of the spindle using the proper tools. Do not hit the ball joint or the threaded end of the ball joint. Once the ball joint is free the spindle should move easily. 13. Be careful when lowering the lower control arm. The coil spring is under high compression and may shoot out when released. Do not stand near the side of the truck during this step. Lower the jack so that the lower control arm swings down. If the coil spring has not fallen out on it’s own you may need to use a pry bar from the front of the vehicle to remove it. 14. Note which end of the coil spring is “bottom” for installation. Also note the depression in the lower control arm. It is important that the last winding of the coil spring fit into the indentation completely so that the vehicle will sit level. Do not switch coil springs from side to side as some vehicles have a specific “right” and “left” coil spring. 15. Check the coil spacer for proper fitment into the coil spring mount in the frame. The flat part of the spacer should face up and touch the top of the spring mount. Some vehicles have guiding tabs to center the coil spring in its top mount. These tabs may have become bent and need to be bent back to allow the spacer to properly fit in the mount. 16. Install the coil spring with the spacer on top of it. If used the coil spring compressor should still be on the spring in a compressed state. If it is not you may need to compress the spring before re-installing. Make sure the spacer is centered in the upper mount and the bottom of the spring is properly nested in the receptor groove on the lower control arm. If you are installing a two-inch or taller spacer you may need a spring compressor. Follow all safety rules when installing the coil spring as it will be under extreme compression. 17. Raise the lower control arm with a jack once the coil spring and spacer are properly lined up. Raise until the spindle is high enough to bolt on the upper ball joint. Before bolting on the upper ball joint make sure the brake caliper and brake line are where they need to be since some brake lines run inside the spindle and outside the coil spring. 18. With the upper ball joint tight and a cotter pin re-installed you may now remove the jack from under the lower control arm. 19. Assemble all of the components previously removed (sway bar with new polyurethane bushings, tie rod ends with polyurethane grease boot, brake caliper and anti-lock sensor). Don’t forget the shock with a new colored boot while it is off. 20. Repeat instructions for other side. 21. After properly installing both spacers you can install your front tires and lower vehicle back to the ground. 22. Your vehicle may sit too high at first because the suspension needs to settle. Carefully back the vehicle up and drive forward a few times using the brakes frequently. Park on level ground and check out your lift. 23. The vehicle will now require a front wheel alignment. Failure to do so may result in severe wear on your tires and may pull to one direction

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2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer Noise Coming From Instrument Panel Cluster (Replace Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC)) Repair Manual

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Filed Under (Chevrolet Manuals) by admin on 18-02-2012

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This bulletin is being revised to add model years and provide important repair information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-08-49-015 (Section 08 — Body and Accessories). Condition Some customers may comment on a noise coming from the instrument panel cluster (IPC) while driving or on initial start-up. Instrument clusters may contain stepper motor gages that can make noise during the following conditions: Subject: Noise Coming From Instrument Panel Cluster (Replace Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC)) Models: 2003-2005 Buick LeSabre 2003-2007 Buick Rendezvous 2004-2005 Buick Rainier 2003-2006 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT 2003-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier, Impala, Monte Carlo 2003-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe, TrailBlazer EXT 2003-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic, TrailBlazer 2003-2007 Chevrolet Kodiak Models 2004-2006 Chevrolet SSR 2003-2006 GMC Envoy XL, Yukon, Yukon XL 2004-2005 GMC Envoy XUV 2004-2007 GMC Envoy 2003-2007 GMC Sierra Classic 2003-2004 Oldsmobile Bravada 2003-2005 Pontiac Aztek, Bonneville, Sunfire 2003-2005 HUMMER H2 Attention: Appropriate repair is based on vehicle build date. Use GMVIS to determine the vehicle build date. • Initial startup (gages zero/reset)

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Quadrajet Bushing Kit Installation Instructions

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Filed Under (More Manuals) by admin on 27-11-2011

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1. Remove the throttle body from the carburetor. 2. File off the end of the throttle blade screws flush with the throttle shaft. 3. Remove the throttle blade screws and blades, keeping them in order of removal. 4. Slide the throttle shaft out of the throttle body. 5. Carefully insert the bushing in the throttle body on each side of the and tap lightly with a hammer until the bushings are flush with the the throttle body. 6. Put the supplied reamer in and electric or air drill and ream the bushing making sure to keep the reamer as straight as possible. 7. Check the fit of the throttle shaft for tightness and if necessary ream the bushings a little at a time to get the best fit

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Toyota Echo, Toyota Yaris TWM Performance Installation Manual Shifter Cable Bushing Kit

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Filed Under (Toyota Manuals) by admin on 03-11-2011

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1. Working in the engine bay, unscrew the two battery terminals using a ratchet with a 10mm socket. Remove the battery tie-down using a 10mm deep socket for the two bolts. The throttle cable must be removed from the bracket as shown to the left. Take note of how the battery tie down is installed and put it aside for re-installation later.
2. Remove the battery and plastic battery tray from the engine bay. Put them aside in a safe place for re-installation later. 3. Begin removal of the intake by loosening the bolt highlighted to the left with a 10mm socket and a ratchet and disconnect the outlet tube from the air box. Unplug both sensors highlighted on the picture from the air box. Unclip the two latches on the air box. Remove the top part of the air box and air filter to have access to the bottom part of the air box. Put them aside for re-installation later. 4. Remove the three bolts at the bottom of the air box using a 10mm socket and a ratchet with an extension. Put them aside for re-installation later. Unscrew the bolt holding the intake near the driver side headlight using a 10mm socket and a ratchet with an extension. Remove the bottom part of the intake from the engine bay and put it aside for reinstallation later. 6. You now have access to both cable bushings. Remove the cotter hairpins using needle nose pliers. Also remove the metal washers holding down the stock rubber bushings. These washers wildit=aiosp_edit

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